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On a less musical note, here's a tip I've just come across in reference to X-wing minis, but could just as easily be applied to power armour, tanks or whatever:
Pencils make great weathering tools. For simulating bullet/blaster marks, scratches ect, a pencil gives a really quick way to add damage. Just 'draw' on the mark, give it a little smudge, and you're done!
Majestic class Escort Carrier HDMS True Unto Death, Battlefleet Pacificus
Use spare spurces to make tank traps, mix in ice cube tray made plaster "dragon's teeth" tank traps, and tons of twister wire for c-wire, spend a few hours doing this and you'll have all the realistic 28mm war terrain you'll ever need, for wicked cheap.
Automatically Appended Next Post:
Paradigm wrote: On a less musical note, here's a tip I've just come across in reference to X-wing minis, but could just as easily be applied to power armour, tanks or whatever:
Pencils make great weathering tools. For simulating bullet/blaster marks, scratches ect, a pencil gives a really quick way to add damage. Just 'draw' on the mark, give it a little smudge, and you're done!
wow, thanks that's awesome
This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2016/01/10 14:53:01
-Me: Don't tell the commissar but i left my Imperial Infantrymans Uplifting Primer at home, but I do carry a folded Texas flag behind my front plate.
-Friend: Texas flag gives you AV14 all around.
Jury-Rig - makeshift repairs or temporary contrivances, made with only the tools and materials that happen to be on hand, the Machine Spirit is not pleased......
Selym wrote: You know how you have that really big model that takes hours to finish, but will look awesome when it is done?
And you know how you just can't bring yourself to start such a large project right now?
When I try to play this one, it tells me that it is not available in my country. WTF?
My armies (re-counted and updated on 11/7/24, including modeled wargear options):
Dark Angels: ~16000 Astra Militarum: ~1200 | Imperial Knights: ~2300 | Leagues of Votann: ~1300 | Tyranids: ~3400 | Stormcast Eternals: ~5000 | Kruleboyz: ~3500 | Lumineth Realm-Lords: ~700
Check out my P&M Blogs: ZergSmasher's P&M Blog | Imperial Knights blog | Board Games blog | Total models painted in 2024: 40 | Total models painted in 2025: 21 | Current main painting project: Warhammer 40k Leviathan set
Mad Doc Grotsnik wrote: You need your bumps felt. With a patented, Grotsnik Corp Bump Feelerer 9,000.
The Grotsnik Corp Bump Feelerer 9,000. It only looks like several bricks crudely gaffer taped to a cricket bat.
Grotsnik Corp. Sorry, No Refunds.
Ask your family if they have any broken or expended eyeshadow colours.
They make brilliant effect powders for spells, blushes and even weathering if the tones are dark. They can be fixed with varnish just like weathering powders.
Once dropped, eyeshadow tends to explode or crack, making a massive mess that can't be easily carried in purses or make up bags, so many people will have "retired" pots(?) of it you can ask for.
Automatically Appended Next Post: Legitimately don't know the container noun for eyeshadow. I bet you're now less worried by my apparent knowledge of make-up.
This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2016/01/11 02:17:14
I've been having some success this winter with spray priming/sealing by keeping the paint/sealer and models indoors near eachother so they've got a similar temperature. I'll pop outside for a quick spray and then abscond to a spare garage room (game room) where the paint stink will linger but not bother anyone else in the house and dissipate eventually.
Disclaimer: I haven't tried this in sub freezing weather, there could be an issue with condensation, and if your secondary drying location is still *really cold* it could still cause issues. What can I say, I like to live on the wild side.
I tried the pencil thing on space marines at one point and it wasn't working for me. I mean it worked but it didn't work out. Or whatever. Being fair, most of my space marine projects didn't work out I may try it on some x-wing though... but probably need some softer art pencils and not a mechanical like I have in my box atm.
GrimDork wrote: I may try it on some x-wing though... but probably need some softer art pencils and not a mechanical like I have in my box atm.
I got good results on my Falcon just with a regular (though non-mechanical) HB pencil. I do want to try a harder lead for some lighter/fresher scratches and some softer ones for faded impacts and scorch marks rather than actual impacts (and they'd probably do well for soot/smoke around engines ect). The trick is to go over the same area a few times to build up a 'pool' (wrong word, but you get the idea) of graphite, then smudge it just lightly away from the direction the hit/scratch/impact/blast has come from, leaving a 'solid' and slightly shiny mark and then a trail behind it of soot/ash/oil/whatever.
If you're using agrellan earth or martian ironearth techpaints and want bigger more dramatic cracks - paint a layer of pva on the base (and let it dry) before painting/layering on the tech paint. Much bigger cracks. Seal the paint to the base later with a milk thin (careful) wash of pva and water.
I keep bluetack around for all kinds of hobby purposes, it's like the swiss army knife in my hobby toolkit. I use it to hold things in place while superglue dries (basically sandwich a dot of it between the glue and bits...can be a weaker bond but by the same token, hella easy to fix again), fill in gaps as stated above, hold models to things (tops or bottoms of old paint pots, etc), as a cheap mix-less version of greenstuff (I can't really sculpt with it, but you can fill a gap and then make passable fur or similar simple textures..just coat it with superglue so it's hard and not still squishy)... I'm sure I've used it for other stuff but I can't recall at at the moment.
Oh another one, if you're hot glue gun is dripping bits of glue, pull the glue stick back a little bit and it should stop
Also, if you're inclined to clean up that bit of glue dribbling from the front with your fingers (the most expedient method, of course) or you drop some glue somewhere you don't want it, you can safely remove by pinching it up with your index finger and thumb...and quickly rolling it around over and over until it's kind of just a flat blah or whatever. The glue from my gun is hot enough to burn me if I just poke it or drop it on myself... but if I get it between my thumb and index finger and roll it up like I said, basically doesn't even feel all that hot. Takes a little finesse, and if it's too much glue at once you won't get it spread around (and the heat dissipated somehow?) before it starts to burn you.
Probably a bad tip, but I find I do it all the time when working with hot glue
This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2016/02/06 04:06:07
Not sure if anyone's covered this yet, but if your paint dropper bottle doesn't produce paint when squeezing, don't just squeeze harder. Trust me, get something to poke out the clog instead and avoid the destructive (and wasteful) blast.
If you're going to do a lot of kitbashing and/or conversion work, get 1 to 3 of those DIY partitioned plastic cases to segregate your parts. The €5-15 is well worth it vs wasting time over the months rooting around in a big box of mixed spare bits.
Also on a related note, if like myself you accumulate kits at a faster rate than you can work on them (doh!), save a lot of storage space by getting them off the sprues and into those parts boxes. Some people prefer to keep them on the sprue to remove moldlines. Personally I don't find this useful at all.
Hey guys!! Im back again... My pm rip for the day, when reviving a metal figurine.
After cleaning him up and done all your sanding and filing, steal your wife or girlfriends nail buffing pad, it has three ti four stages of abrasive pads, will make a metal figurines smooth areas even smoother.
When following circles, I find it a lot easier to "pull" with the brush towards you than side swipe or try to write. Hadn't realised how hard they can be until I outlined some coins today.
My of tip the day is take a break from it every so often to recharge your creative flow. I been a break for a few months. Catching up on some video gaming etc.
Though I would not say playing Dark Souls 3 is very relaxing
This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2016/05/13 08:23:14
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8xqOf-KjdVY
My Hobby Blog:
(expanding to 
) 
~2800 points 
2500pts (Imperial Navy Armsmen)
~16000 Astra Militarum: 
~1200 | Imperial Knights: 
~1300 | Tyranids: 
~3400 | Stormcast Eternals: 
~5000 | Kruleboyz: 
~3500 | Lumineth Realm-Lords: 
~700
I may try it on some x-wing though... but probably need some softer art pencils and not a mechanical like I have in my box 
