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Vulcan wrote:That's actually quite a good job of it, especially on the boots. The difference between black cloth and polished black leather comes through very well.

The only thing I would suggest is either going in with black and cleaning up the highlights and deepening the shadows, or giving it an overall black glaze to accomplish much the same goal.

Still, nice job regardless!

Thanks! I might just give it a whirl, but as I said, I kinda got bored halfways and just wanted to finish ^^. Honestly, I think it has to do with the fact that I can just print another one and do it again if I so decide.

bbb wrote:How easy is it to remove the supports? These look fantastic.

It really depends on type of supports, density and placement. Positioning a mini for printing and adding supports is a learning skill, I've found. That said, using hot water and clipping the supports right after cleaning (even better, when they're still hot and pliable from the hot water) and before the UV hardening it's the best way, IMHO. Then, afterwards, you just do cleanup and filing.

For the supports I opt for the thin ones only and on sturdy areas before curing you can just pull them all right off. If attached to delicate parts you can snip with small pliers (Elegoo Mars gives you a great pair) - All in all, so much easier and cleaner than FDM supports.

do you need a pc to run a 3-d printer? I use a chromebook most of the time. I do have a pc but haven't turned it on for 3 years or more.

 bubber wrote:
do you need a pc to run a 3-d printer? I use a chromebook most of the time. I do have a pc but haven't turned it on for 3 years or more.

Generally, yes.

The software that slices the model and prepares it for 3d printing is run on a computer and sends the data to the printer. Very few printers can do all that on their own.

 bubber wrote:
do you need a pc to run a 3-d printer? I use a chromebook most of the time. I do have a pc but haven't turned it on for 3 years or more.

Mostly yes, you do. I know there are some online slicers, but I don't actually know if they're any good.

OTOH, I do most of my slicing on a Surface Pro, so it's not like you need a top of the line performer in that regard.

Hey was referred by Albertorius to check this out and glad he did. I have skimmed and read most the updates I guess my questions are, to get 28mm to 50mm scale figures and bits would a DLP Anycubic Photon be a good start? Is it a resin printer and is this specific printer able to print tanks(40k size not Epic scale)as well? Also are the files that are used for printing scalable?
I see that 20 microns has the level of detail I want and was shocked by the quality, as many have already said haha.

Edit: haha okay I have looked through the thread and seen most of my questions were answered. But now I ask just as a personal preference is the DLP Anycubic Photon of the DLP Anycubic Photon S LCD a better investment for a beginner? Because I am tempted by the S model but don’t want to overspend if possible. Ironically I am cheap wargaming, or I try to be.

thank you Lance845 & Albertorius

Musselman wrote:Hey was referred by Albertorius to check this out and glad he did. I have skimmed and read most the updates I guess my questions are, to get 28mm to 50mm scale figures and bits would a DLP Anycubic Photon be a good start? Is it a resin printer and is this specific printer able to print tanks(40k size not Epic scale)as well? Also are the files that are used for printing scalable?
I see that 20 microns has the level of detail I want and was shocked by the quality, as many have already said haha.

Edit: haha okay I have looked through the thread and seen most of my questions were answered. But now I ask just as a personal preference is the DLP Anycubic Photon of the DLP Anycubic Photon S LCD a better investment for a beginner? Because I am tempted by the S model but don’t want to overspend if possible. Ironically I am cheap wargaming, or I try to be.

Glad you found it interesting

IMHO, the Photon S has the advantage of a slightly more powerful led and a sturdier z axis, but other than that... dunno, I'm not too fond of it. For the price, I'd check out the Mars Pro instead.

bubber wrote:thank you Lance845 & Albertorius

I'm just happy that this is useful for someone ^^

I have a question for Albertorius. Your Marauder Bombers were very impressive, with some crisp detail. I'm starting to get back into Star Wars Armada and I'm discovering that stock levels are pretty low across all the major online retail outlets. In your opinion could an Anycubic produce Armada scale ships at a roughly equivalent level of detail compared to the retail offerings? I know a lot of the Imperial ships have recessed details along the sides or engine areas, so I'm not sure how well a 3d printer would handle those. Ideally I'd just buy retail but God knows how long it'll take Fantasy Flight to do a reissue.

Das_Ubermike wrote:
I have a question for Albertorius. Your Marauder Bombers were very impressive, with some crisp detail. I'm starting to get back into Star Wars Armada and I'm discovering that stock levels are pretty low across all the major online retail outlets. In your opinion could an Anycubic produce Armada scale ships at a roughly equivalent level of detail compared to the retail offerings? I know a lot of the Imperial ships have recessed details along the sides or engine areas, so I'm not sure how well a 3d printer would handle those. Ideally I'd just buy retail but God knows how long it'll take Fantasy Flight to do a reissue.

It would very much depend on the models you use for the print, tbh. If you get good stl files, the current crop of dlp desjtop printers are more than enough to pull it off.

Glad you found it interesting

IMHO, the Photon S has the advantage of a slightly more powerful led and a sturdier z axis, but other than that... dunno, I'm not too fond of it. For the price, I'd check out the Mars Pro instead.



Thank you for clearing that up, yes the Mars Pro does look like a better option, cheaper and if it can produce the quality of models that you have shown then seems to be a good investment. Especially if it can be used for tanks?!

15mm tanks, probably. 28mm, unless its bigger than the standard Mars, you can JUST about get a russ hull in there, better if its in parts, but that's gonna be a long print.

Vejut wrote:
15mm tanks, probably. 28mm, unless its bigger than the standard Mars, you can JUST about get a russ hull in there, better if its in parts, but that's gonna be a long print.

Ah thank you for letting me know. I really have zero experience with a 3D printer so any advice is helpful. Okay so might still have to buy some standard tank kits but at least custom guns, doors and accessories can be done. Damn was hoping to save money on those primaris repulser and executioner tanks

Vejut wrote:
15mm tanks, probably. 28mm, unless its bigger than the standard Mars, you can JUST about get a russ hull in there, better if its in parts, but that's gonna be a long print.

I've personally printed a couple of predators with the Photon, and I've seen many IG ones printed as well. It is a longish print, but not really any longer than you'd need with fdm... but, well, way, waaay smoother ^^

For the Preds, I needed to print in parts: first the main body, then the sides, one at a time, then turrets and sponsons all at the same time, so that's four plates, each running for about... 5-6 hours maybe.

So, looking up interesting minis for Necromunda this time. I've just found the gumroad page of "Art of Mike", and it has some suitable stuff:







I also have beel dicking around on desktophero to see what I could do (...yeah, well xD):

So today I had a lot of work... that, fortunately, I needed to do at home, so I decided to put the printers to work ^^, and I printed some scenery for Epic/AT

I started printing some of Troublemaker Games' STL Kickstarter files, and boy, they do look sweet (one of the grey ones, the one at the top left, didn't print correctly, not sure why, but the rest printed perfectly):







I also printed a very neat multi level building I found on Cults3D:




It does look very good... but man, have I been spoiled by the resin printers: you can see a lot of stringing (due to speed and to that I printed too hot), I got slight warping on the underside of two of the three, and even at a brisk 45mm/s the three sections took almost 5 hours... so I also printed it on resin, as they are really light, being hollow:







I printed two sections at a time (might have been able to fit three, I think, but... eh) and each building plate took about two hours and a half... and even doing a bit of a slapjob cleaning the grey ones (...I got bored ^^), man, do they look sweet.

I also realize that being hollow, I could print a fethton of these with a single bottle... enough for a full table, I think.

Looks good for both. Do the resin prints require any supports beyond just the base?

 warboss wrote:
Looks good for both. Do the resin prints require any supports beyond just the base?

Nope, it was all printed directly on the plate without supports

Sooo thos quarantine I've been at my parents', so I haven't had my printers around :(

But I'm back, baby (...well, for the weekend. I need to do some maintenance >_&gt, so I've fired them up:

Doing tiny guys at 0.02 microns per layer



They look amazing, tbh... well, they look tiny as all heck, but still



Size comparison

So, I'm making up for the lost time... at least for the little while I can stay at home (meaning, it's over until next time )

I painted a base of marines to see how they en up, and I'm personally very impressed:



Closer!



Seriously, these guys are tiny



I also printed some Sicaran Venator tanks:



And really... it makes you realize how fething tiny the old Epic plastic vehicles really are... they're actually quite a bit smaller than the infantry!



Honestly, the 40k Rhino mini is ridiculously small (I mean, there's no way 10 marines fit in there, unless they've been mashed to a pulp first), but these Rhinos make me think of clown cars:




...so given that the Venator is at the "correct" Epic scale (meaning, the AT one, which is actually the same as the Epic infantry one), and that I have AT stuff and I'm painting it and all, I printed some AT scale Rhinos, which honestly, looks like it's the scale that they should be:



White resin photographs like gak, though, but hopefully size is evident:





I honestly believe that these look very good and "right" ones besides the others.

They do make the old ones look like clown cars, though :




More stuff!

Command bases!




Troublesome Games' STL files!

Turrets!



Extra tiles for their buildings!



...honestly, the tiles didn't turn out perfect, but that's mainly because I'm printing them using HIPS, which means I'll be able to glue them with the rest of Troublemaker Games' ones using plastic glue, which is just really cool ^^

Also, the small ones fit inside the big ones and are designed to fit the turrets too

Those tiny marines are so cute! I'm really impressed with the detail on such tiny little models and I'm guessing it's even better in person when you're holding them in your hand.

Tiny hazard stripes

Looking great. I'm hoping to get into epic or warmaster stuff with my resin printer too. Amazed at your tiny stripes. Steady hands!

Those infantry are amazingly painted for how small they are! You must have a VERY steady hand!

warboss wrote:Those tiny marines are so cute! I'm really impressed with the detail on such tiny little models and I'm guessing it's even better in person when you're holding them in your hand.

Arakasi wrote:Tiny hazard stripes

CaptainWaffle wrote:Looking great. I'm hoping to get into epic or warmaster stuff with my resin printer too. Amazed at your tiny stripes. Steady hands!

Gwyn chan 'r Gwyll wrote:Those infantry are amazingly painted for how small they are! You must have a VERY steady hand!

Thank's guys ^^. More than a steady hand, I have not much space to work with there, so the lines look good xD.

And yeah, the level of detail for something so small is amazeballs, given that I've printed them at home. Having stuff designed for 3d printers instead of ripped from games and the like os for other types of production make a world of a difference.

Finished one of the Sicarans... it's a bit of a hack job, but I wanted to see how they'd look (also, after a certain point you hit diminishing returns FAST):

Looks good! Did you print it horizontally or vertically on the print bed?

 warboss wrote:
Looks good! Did you print it horizontally or vertically on the print bed?

...a bit of both columns, actually ^^

Why do you print them at an angle like that?

Yes I realize a 3d printing forum is a better place to ask noob questions, but I'm here.

Kayback wrote:
Why do you print them at an angle like that?

Yes I realize a 3d printing forum is a better place to ask noob questions, but I'm here.

Both to minimize the area that is printed on every layer (thus making it less taxing and easier to succeed) and to try and make the layers less noticeable.

Thanks!