Switch Theme:

Arakasi Reloaded: Ummm...  [RSS] Share on facebook Share on Twitter Submit to Reddit
»
Author Message
Advert


Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you:
  • No adverts like this in the forums anymore.
  • Times and dates in your local timezone.
  • Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance.
  • Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely.
  • Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net.
If you are already a member then feel free to login now.




Made in au
Ragin' Ork Dreadnought






Albany, Australia

With the dawn of a new year, I've decided to make another attempt at resurrecting my beleaguered hobby. Inspired in part (probably mostly) by the plethora of Dakka P&M blogs with impressive 2019 in review updates and 2020 plans that I have been lurking on. Attempt one last year (my Imperial Knights) had the right "idea" of reducing the scope, but I think something got lost in the implementation. I've also been distracted (and will continue to be) by an unrelated non hobby project. I also only have access to my hobby 50% of the time at current, but that will go up to 75% in April.

So, what exactly is the plan?

I've been playing some Warhammer Underworlds, and will take possession of Rippa's Snarlfangs shortly as a belated Christmas present. (I also have Ironskull's Boyz). And just because by hobby has been on hiatus doesn't mean my pile of shame hasn't been, or will continue to be, increasing. I took part in the Limbo Kickstarter which is due to deliver soon... I discovered last year that my paints are in various conditions of usability, and of course, there have been a few changes to the paint range since I last picked up a brush in earnest.

So this is going to be part journey of discovery and rediscovery, part motivation, and probably a lot more paint and less modelling than those that may have followed on with my previous endeavours might expect.

To start with, I'll be exploring the fine art of paint stripping - as I attempt to strip the paint from some old metal minis that I lost interest in decades ago due to a bad primer. From there, I hope to move to paint experimentation on those minis in preparation for tackling Rippa's Snarlfangs and (some of) Limbo. With a bit of luck that might inspire me to revisit my Imperial Knights and Orks - but we'll see how we go.

I warmly invite you to join me on the journey (and prod me where necessary!)

Catchya!
Arakasi

PS. I also plan to eventually move this post to the third post below and use this as "current state of the journey" - but that may be planning a little too far ahead at this stage

This message was edited 9 times. Last update was at 2020/07/03 12:53:26


   
Made in au
Wicked Ghast





Australia

Intriguing
[Thumb - PLTZJRh.gif]
Hmm


Nothing to see here, move along mortal.  
   
Made in au
Ragin' Ork Dreadnought






Albany, Australia

There goes securing the second post spot. I guess I'll make do with the third .

   
Made in au
Ragin' Ork Dreadnought






Albany, Australia

It begins...

I have some test subjects:


A collection of Chaos Thugs (I believe) and a Chaos Warrior from decades ago who suffered a bad (grainy) prime and never recovered. Metal minis with plastic bases, with a lot of skin to practise on.

And some supplies:


I'll see how it goes with the metals, then I'm sure I have some plastic beastmen that can be a plastic paint strip test case...

I'll need to see if I can find some old wolves or boars to practise (painting) on as well, as well as some old goblines or grots.... (bound to be a couple... of dozen... or so)

Catchya,
Arakasi

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2020/02/01 15:08:23


   
Made in gb
Homicidal Veteran Blood Angel Assault Marine






Wow! They’re proper old skool! Hopefully they help you get back in to the hobby properly!

Goberts Gubbins - A Random Oldhammer P&M Blog, now with added Blackstone Fortress 
   
Made in gb
Rampaging Reaver Titan Princeps





Earlobe deep in doo doo

Going to suggest Dettol for the plastics its gentler on them and strips paint well.

"But me no buts! Our comrades get hurt. Our friends die. Falkenburg is a knight who swore an oath to serve the church and to defend the weak. He'd be the first to tell you to stop puling and start planning. Because what we are doing-at risk to ourselves-is what we have sworn to do. The West relies on us. It is a risk we take with pride. It is an oath we honour. Even when some soft southern burgher mutters about us, we know the reason he sleeps soft and comfortable, why his wife is able to complain about the price of cabbages as her most serious problem and why his children dare to throw dung and yell "Knot" when we pass. It's because we are what we are. For all our faults we stand for law and light.
Von Gherens This Rough Magic Lackey, Flint & Freer
Mekagorkalicious -Monkeytroll
2017 Model Count-71
 
   
Made in us
[DCM]
Lone Wolf Sentinel Pilot






We also use Dettol once a month on our ponies' hooves- to make sure and baddies in the frog material are proper killed dead.

I second using Dettol, but if the paint is particularly pernicious, then brake fluid is (my) nuclear final option. It can't hurt metals, but can be rough on some plastics.

I look forward to following along and learning from you as you go!

"He fears his fate too much, or his desserts are small, who will not put it to a single touch; to win- or lose- it all."

Montrose Toast


 
   
Made in au
Ragin' Ork Dreadnought






Albany, Australia

Welcome all, and thank you for the Dettol suggestions.

There is a lot of information about on paint stripping. The ones below are the ones that struck a chord with me, so to speak:
  • Strip Paint off Miniatures Cheap and Easy – A How-To Guide - big fan of Isopropyl Alcohol.
  • STRIPPING - A "How To" from Big Willy Style - a nice breakdown of various products and active ingredients.
  • Dakka Modeling FAQ: How to Strip... - our very own DakkaDakka - big fan of Castrol Super Clean.

  • The above list is definitively *not* exhaustive!

    I thought I'd go with Methylated Spirits first as it is:
  • Reasonably cheap and readily available to me.
  • Mentioned (if briefly) in all of the above.
  • *Should* be safe for plastics (and plastic containers.)

  • I'll see how the bases turn out (no harm done if they are destroyed).

    If I have any issues, I'll be sure to branch out!


    Ready to go...


    Go!

    Catchya,
    Arakasi


       
    Made in au
    Ragin' Ork Dreadnought






    Albany, Australia


    Doesn't look like much after 24hrs...


    But pretty good after a first scrub with a toothbrush!

    Observations
  • Wasn't able to get everything cleared in one go, especially crevices (that's okay, just put them back in!)
  • I probably want to rotate though the minis faster so that everyone gets a bit of a scrub before spending more time in the tank.
  • The two models with existing base colours seemed to come off in layers, and were also the ones most in need of a second dunk.
  • Top left pretty much came out perfect in one go.
  • Most separated from their bases (superglued, badly, an aeon ago).
  • Top right finished early due to the next two items:
  • Spiky miniatures plus thin gloves equals hole-y gloves and methylated spirit fingers
  • Even in a ventilated area, I think I may want a mask.
  • I'm going to need a strainer and additional containers to effectively reuse the Methylated Spirits.
  • Can you tell which edge of the base was out of the liquid?

  • Going to get thicker gloves, a mask, and I probably shouldn't be risking my eyes either - I'm pretty sure I have some protective glasses, although side protection might be good too...

    Catchya,
    Arakasi

       
    Made in jp
    Incorporating Wet-Blending





    Japan

    Those are some classic models. I think you'll enjoy painting them-- stripping and repainting my old models is something I do every once in a while to recharge my batteries.

    Now showing more dwarfs from Mantic!


    Painting Total as of 8/3/2020: 122 plus two mechs

    Painting total as of 12/24/2019: 138 plus a wooden bridge and gnoll encampment and 36 pieces of Mantic scatter terrain and three fly holes and three farm buildings and a fire pit and two hills.


     
       
    Made in au
    Ragin' Ork Dreadnought






    Albany, Australia

    I'm sure I will, although my initial goal is to strip, experiment, repeat.


    Scrub number two. Mostly close to perfect. I was a little disappointed the Chaos Champion, Chaos Thug and Thug (far left, bottom to top) didn't seem to progress any further with the extra day. I think I need either a stiffer brush or to take a toothpick to some of the crevices. Hopefully I haven't diluted my Methylated Spirits already.

    I doubled up on gloves on my left hand, but using pliers to hold the miniature by the tab resulted in no holes today. I found my "disposable" mask and protective glasses, so other than looking like a thug, things felt a lot safer today.

    Giving the five good ones one last day to soak. I will see what I can do to assist the other three... then I probably need to start thinking about priming and my first paint experiments...

    Catchya.
    Arakasi

    This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2020/01/14 06:40:13


       
    Made in au
    Fixture of Dakka





    Melbourne

    Arakasi, Nice to see you working again!

    Underworlds is mad fun. I convinced the missus to play it with me and she started to thoroughly enjoy it after she realised she could kick my arse. That Mollog is a brutal bastard.

    Regarding the stripping. You seem to have things in hand, but I thought I'd throw in my observations.
    IPA is my go to now for plastics. It's safe on plastics, it's quick acting, it's effective and you get quite a few minis stripped before it starts to lose it's mojo.
    Nail polish remover is the best for metals though i've found. IPA works very well too, but the acetone just edges it out.


    And don't worry, i'll remind you about your knights! I'm super keen to see you finish them off.


    Looking forward to seeing you lay some paint down on those chaos boys.

    My Blogs -
    Hobby Blog - Currently lots of stuff
    Terrain - Currently Middle Earth ruins.
    My Instagram - I don't post much. 
       
    Made in au
    Ragin' Ork Dreadnought






    Albany, Australia

    Hey Snrub, welcome to attempt two!

    I enjoy Underworlds, although I haven't played much. More than 8th Edition 40K, but that is setting the bar fairly low Mostly "practise" games against my brother (his competition practise), who is a lot more into it. Still, I managed to slide into 16th in a Grand Clash last year (out of 30, my brother made 10th, and beat me in a pairing of course), using borrowed, well, everything.

    I struggle to find a middle point in gaming and hobbies. I tend to be all in or nothing. At this point I'm closer to nothing on Underworlds, trying to avoid all in and the additional plastic shame

    Is IPA worth the extra cost? It was my next stop if the MS didn't pan out. They are still soaking, but more because I've been busy. And I haven't bought toothpicks yet. But I have remembered I have a "custom" scuplting tool with a fine point...

    Anyway, on with the blog...

    Next week I lose access to my hobby (travel) but will hopefully take posession of Rippa's Snarlfangs (present). I went looking through my pile of shame for "closer" miniatures to practise on, and this is what I found:


    Nasty Skulkers...


    .. and Orc Boars (minus the Boys - well, I found the boys, but I don't need them for practising just now. Also, they are missing the arm that attaches to the boar for some reason)

    I doubt I will get to these before I leave, but I may just take them with me and see if I can clean them up / assemble them in readiness for the week after.

    I also need to start looking into paint. I may be able to sort some of that out next week too. I'm thinking a "realistic" paint job - wolves inspired by nature, a patchwork of different shades of leather, rusted metal weapons and shields. I suspect the focal point will end up being the bright green of the goblins. If I ever painted an "inspired" version I think I'd go bright Roman soldier colours (how I imagine the goblins *think* they look).

    Thanks for checking in,
    Arakasi

       
    Made in au
    Ragin' Ork Dreadnought






    Albany, Australia

    I've been holding out updating here pending a picture of something interesting, but at this rate that could be a while...

    So while there isn't any visible progress, there has been some progress.

    What hasn't progressed:
  • Chaos metal miniatures are still soaking
  • Plastic miniature stripping test hasn't started
  • Nasty Skulkers and Orc Boars barely touched
  • Limbo arrival date unknown

  • What has progressed:
  • Purchased toothpicks and thicker gloves to assist with paint stripping
  • Purchased container and sponge for wet palette
  • Purchased (hopefully better) dropper bottles and agitators (stainless steel, marine grade) - due Feb 18-24
  • Planning a colour scheme for Rippa's Snarlfangs - see below
  • Purchased (with Christmas money) Rippa's Snarlfangs and paints - due Feb 6-10

  • The Games Workshop paint job of Rippa's Snarlfangs is... pretty boring.
    Spoiler:

    Probably the closest idea from Games Workshop to what I have in mind is the Thunderwolf Cavalry, Canis Wolfborn and Wolf Lord on Thunderwolf.
    Spoiler:

    Nature is even better?
    Spoiler:

    I'd love to do the black wolf if I thought I could do it justice. Also trying to stay away from lighter colours as I don't want to drag the focus from the riders.

    Anyway, all this planning led to a list of resources too:
  • How to Paint: Rippa's Snarlfangs
  • WHTV Tip of the Day: Moonclan Grot Skin.
  • Space Wolves - Painting a Thunderwolf.
  • WHTV Tip of the Day - Leather.
  • WHTV Tip of the Day: Red Grot Noses
  • WHTV Tip of the day: Fur and Pelts.
  • WHTV Tip of the Day: Red-Brown Gor Fur
  • WHTV Tip of the Day: Gor Skin and Fur
  • mcmattila's hobby projects - 40k, AoS, Underworlds - cloaks recipes

  • I think that is it for now

    Catchya,
    Arakasi

       
    Made in au
    Fixture of Dakka





    Melbourne

    With the IPA, I did find it to be worth the cost. It cost like $25 for half a litre and I think so far, i've stripped uhh.... 120+ minis with it, and it's still got some kick left in it.
    Wouldn't have got anywhere near the same amount out of the equivalent of the likes of Simple Green. Plus the IPA has the advantage of being quick acting. I was letting plastics sit for half hour and then scrubbing paint right off, where Simple Green was minimum 24 hours if not longer for some things.


    With the wolfies. A pack of black wolves would be stunning. And would be well worth the effort invested in them. I really like the red wolves though. They're almost dingo like.

    If you're feeling reeeeeally adventurous you could try something like this...

    https://www.instagram.com/p/B8QwEhRHGT8/

    My Blogs -
    Hobby Blog - Currently lots of stuff
    Terrain - Currently Middle Earth ruins.
    My Instagram - I don't post much. 
       
    Made in au
    Ragin' Ork Dreadnought






    Albany, Australia

    Hey Snrub!

    Well, I'll see how I go with my $4.50/L methylated spirits ($4 if I'd bought the non violet one - doh ) given I've already paid for that, and give the IPA a go next .

    I have a plastic test case ready to go - I'll time it at 30m and see how it compares:


    I'll see how I go with my test models before committing to three black wolves. I'll be happy to include one. On the plus side, they shouldn't draw attention from the riders. Speaking of which - test models are assembled awaiting primer:


    With reference to your linked example, not so "not adventurous" so much as "not the direction I was planning to go". Nicely done though. It does suffer from the brighter wolf drawing the eye over the darker smaller rider, which I'm trying to avoid...

    Anyway - I hope to have some paint on the above soon. Rippa's Snarlfangs have arrived, so they need assembly. I had hoped not to have to make any customisations to Rippa's Snarlfangs, but there is just one element I can't abide by... (anyone want to try to guess?)

    Catchya,
    Arakasi

       
    Made in au
    Ragin' Ork Dreadnought






    Albany, Australia

    30m Methylated Spirits vs Plastic Chaos Beastman


    Also, calling 5 of 8 metals done. Last three I've started poking with a toothpick, which is succeeding in moving some of the paint caught in the gaps, but we aren't 100% there yet (so still bathing, for lack of a better place to store currently).

    Catchya,
    Arakasi

       
    Made in au
    Ragin' Ork Dreadnought






    Albany, Australia


    Test pieces undercoated / primed. I feel paint coming on!

    Catchya,
    Arakasi

       
    Made in jp
    Incorporating Wet-Blending





    Japan

    Those metal thugs are remarkably clean. I'm more than a little jealous of the guy with the pistols. I don't think I've ever seen that one in real life.

    Now showing more dwarfs from Mantic!


    Painting Total as of 8/3/2020: 122 plus two mechs

    Painting total as of 12/24/2019: 138 plus a wooden bridge and gnoll encampment and 36 pieces of Mantic scatter terrain and three fly holes and three farm buildings and a fire pit and two hills.


     
       
    Made in us
    Longtime Dakkanaut






    Old minis rule. The armored Chaos Warrior is one of my favorites from that range.
       
    Made in fi
    Shrieking Guardian Jetbiker





    Finland, Espoo

    Glad that you decided to get back to the hobby!
    Good write up regarding the stripping process! It's always interesting to see how the different chemicals work.

    I have had some success with Fairy Power Spray. It just takes a while (1-2 days) to remove most of the paint.
    Anyway, it's always hard work to remove all the paint. Especially on models that have been primed multiple times, like the ones I got from a friend.

    This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2020/02/18 14:20:17


       
    Made in au
    Fixture of Dakka





    Melbourne

    Ooh those Beastmen came out brand spankers! Looks like metho's a goer then.

    My Blogs -
    Hobby Blog - Currently lots of stuff
    Terrain - Currently Middle Earth ruins.
    My Instagram - I don't post much. 
       
    Made in au
    Ragin' Ork Dreadnought






    Albany, Australia

    G'day,

    I should be putting Mean-eye together, and perhaps I will after this, but instead I'm providing this update .

    @JoshInJapan: Well, they've only ever had that one base coat from, probably, 1992? So they are basically "new" . I think they came in random packs. I'm pretty sure I used to buy whatever I could find with "Chaos" on it back then, as I started in Warhammer Fantasy with a Chaos army... Not a lot of availability back then on the West side of Oz... (or at least as far as I recall...)

    @youwashock: They do. Dissapointed I managed to get rid of my Orks from that time period. Now happy I failed to get rid of anything else . If I can work out what to do with them, I'll ressurect more...

    @Ezki: Welcome! Glad to be back, albeit still ramping back up again. Thankfully I think all of my strip targets are self inflicted.

    @Snrub: It's got a bit of the white undercoat still on it, but yes, I was very happy with how it came up in 30m. (I actually have an untarnished one to compare it to as well).

    So, I haven't been up to much. The week back at home has been waylaid by home improvements. But I do have a little progress to share.

    First up - the one modification I had to make to Rippa's Snarlfangs:
    Spoiler:

    Rippa Narkbad's base - before.


    Rippa Narkbad's base - after.


    Stabbit


    Together, but with a small gap down the snout I'm going to have to attempt to fill with liquid greenstuff (as well as the other seam lines). I don't think I applied enough / any plastic glue in the snout, so no amount of pushing together really helped. These miniatures are a lot smaller / more delicate than I had assumed they would be. My brother also alerted me (afterwards) that the pegs of Underworlds miniatures can sometimes be a little too long - so I'll cut them down a bit on the next two as well, just in case.

    Thanks for tuning in!

    Catchya,
    Arakasi


       
    Made in au
    Ragin' Ork Dreadnought






    Albany, Australia

    So much for Mean-eye. I promised myself as part of my 2020 hobby resurrection year I would enter the Dakka Painting Challenge once the annual rotation kicked off. It has still managed to sneak up on me, but here we are. I'll only have two weeks available this month (three from next month) - so we'll see how I go. Luckily I have this Dark Vengeance Dark Angels Terminator that I prepared five (probably more) years ago. Unluckily I undercoated it black back then. He has been de-dusted for his "proof" picture.

    Have even started painting!

    Proof (of paint).

    4 layers and counting...
    Spoiler:

    This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2020/03/03 13:31:20


       
    Made in au
    Ragin' Ork Dreadnought






    Albany, Australia

    Progress continues on my Dakka Painting Challenge entry.


    I have more progress photos and steps, and I really need to document them before I forget them, but I also need to keep painting while I am motivated!

    Catchya,

    Arakasi


    Automatically Appended Next Post:
    Some pictures of my newly set up wet palette:
    Spoiler:

    In all its brand new glory.


    Test drive with Zandri Dust.


    Left for a week (you can see the paint has separated).


    Mixed back together - still good!

    This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2020/03/08 08:43:10


       
    Made in gb
    Homicidal Veteran Blood Angel Assault Marine






    Deathwing Terminator is looking cool, is the screaming skull layered on or dry brushed?

    Your wet palette looks the business too. I think I need to upgrade mine as it doesn’t seal at all so it drys out within a week.

    Goberts Gubbins - A Random Oldhammer P&M Blog, now with added Blackstone Fortress 
       
    Made in au
    Ragin' Ork Dreadnought






    Albany, Australia

    It's supposed to be layered on, not drybrushed . I obviously need to work more on my transistions. I'm hoping that this is a practise and patience thing. This is the first model I have painted in a long time...

    Current state:

    This is just a repeat of the previous step - a 1:1 mix of Screaming Skull and Ushabti Bone - but all over rather than just the edges. I figured I need to get closer to white, and I still have pure Screaming Skull and a mix to pure White Scar available to me for edge highlighting. (Although I'm waiting on delivery of the White Scar plus other colours for the other areas.)

    Steps to here spoilered below:
    Spoiler:


    Last pure Zandri Dust layer.


    Seraphim Sepia wash.


    Re-apply Zandri Dust.


    1:1 Zandri Dust and Ushabti Bone


    Ushabti Bone


    1:1 Ushabti Bone and Screaming Skull pictured before, just the edges.


    I've also started playing with base colours for fur, specifically:

    Doombull Brown, Dryad Bark, Jokaero Orange, Mechanicus Standard Grey, Mournfang Brown, Rhinox Hide, Steel Legion Drab, Zandri Dust.


    On Skull White base.


    On Mechanicus Standard Grey base.


    On Chaos Black base. (Looks like this one needs at least another layer...)

    Catchya,
    Arakasi

       
    Made in jp
    Incorporating Wet-Blending





    Japan

    The layering on the terminator looks pretty smooth to me. I'm sure it looks even better in real life and at arm's length.

    Before I read your captions, I was impressed by the bold direction you were taking with those boars.

    Now showing more dwarfs from Mantic!


    Painting Total as of 8/3/2020: 122 plus two mechs

    Painting total as of 12/24/2019: 138 plus a wooden bridge and gnoll encampment and 36 pieces of Mantic scatter terrain and three fly holes and three farm buildings and a fire pit and two hills.


     
       
    Made in gb
    Fixture of Dakka





    6 foot underwater

    Good to see you active again!

    Termi looks good so far, returning to that colour stuff is always a task.

    And I for one welcome our stripey tusked overlords

    cyborks & flyboyz : http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/300067.page
    heretical ramblings : http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/302773.page
    imperial preachings : http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/0/303365.page
    Da Waaagh-ky Races : http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/325045.page
    Briancj: You have the Mek Taint, MT, and the only thing we can do is watch in horror/amazement.

     
       
    Made in us
    Decrepit Dakkanaut






    Madison, WI

    I found your thread! Entertain me!!

       
     
    Forum Index » Dakka P&M Blogs
    Go to: