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 Flagg07 wrote:
Thanks to all the posters that have shown examples of your work. It's much appreciated.

My final questions on the subject....

Are Wraithbone and Gray Seer colored primers, or just colors manufactured to work with contrast paints?

Should we be priming with a dedicated primer, then WB/GS, then contrast?

Thanks.

I have been putting wraithbone directly on the model and have had no problems.

 squall018 wrote:

 Flagg07 wrote:
Thanks to all the posters that have shown examples of your work. It's much appreciated.

My final questions on the subject....

Are Wraithbone and Gray Seer colored primers, or just colors manufactured to work with contrast paints?

Should we be priming with a dedicated primer, then WB/GS, then contrast?

Thanks.

I have been putting wraithbone directly on the model and have had no problems.

None of the tutorials on Warhammer TV use Chaos Black or Corax White before one of the other colored sprays.


Automatically Appended Next Post:
NMM with Contrast paints by Pete the Wargamer:

 Dark Severance wrote:

 lord_blackfang wrote:
Respect to this man, he has destroyed 3 Rhinos so far so we don't have to.

I mean.. I guess. Does anyone actually paint vehicles like Rhino with a brush though? It is good to see someone actually do an example so there are pictures and video of what we do know, Contrast paints aren't meant for large flat surfaces where there is nothing to contrast and they show brush strokes (because there is no texture to contrast with). Although using the sponge method can give an interesting weather effect which isn't too bad.

Contrast in vehicles might be usable to make stains etc but yeah that's about it. At least with brush. Maybe airbrush it works better.


Automatically Appended Next Post:

 Ghaz wrote:
None of the tutorials on Warhammer TV use Chaos Black or Corax White before one of the other colored sprays.

Then again they haven't been using actual primers with their non-primer sprays before in tutorial either. What they don't sell they don't advertize.

 Dark Severance wrote:

 lord_blackfang wrote:
Respect to this man, he has destroyed 3 Rhinos so far so we don't have to.

I mean.. I guess. Does anyone actually paint vehicles like Rhino with a brush though?

Yes. I painted a Warhound titan with a brush (well, several, I suppose ). The trick? use a larger brush.

 Dark Severance wrote:

 lord_blackfang wrote:
Respect to this man, he has destroyed 3 Rhinos so far so we don't have to.

I mean.. I guess. Does anyone actually paint vehicles like Rhino with a brush though? It is good to see someone actually do an example so there are pictures and video of what we do know, Contrast paints aren't meant for large flat surfaces where there is nothing to contrast and they show brush strokes (because there is no texture to contrast with). Although using the sponge method can give an interesting weather effect which isn't too bad.

I think the issue is how do you paint match the contrast effect otherwise?

 The Phazer wrote:

 Dark Severance wrote:

 lord_blackfang wrote:
Respect to this man, he has destroyed 3 Rhinos so far so we don't have to.

I mean.. I guess. Does anyone actually paint vehicles like Rhino with a brush though? It is good to see someone actually do an example so there are pictures and video of what we do know, Contrast paints aren't meant for large flat surfaces where there is nothing to contrast and they show brush strokes (because there is no texture to contrast with). Although using the sponge method can give an interesting weather effect which isn't too bad.

I think the issue is how do you paint match the contrast effect otherwise?

Exactly....I want my army to look unified.

 Dark Severance wrote:

 lord_blackfang wrote:
Respect to this man, he has destroyed 3 Rhinos so far so we don't have to.

I mean.. I guess. Does anyone actually paint vehicles like Rhino with a brush though? .

Is this a trick question?


Something wacky like an airbrush seems like it would render the contrast paints ineffective. Or at least more difficult to get the various pigments moved around recesses and raised areas properly.

Voss wrote:

 Dark Severance wrote:

 lord_blackfang wrote:
Respect to this man, he has destroyed 3 Rhinos so far so we don't have to.

I mean.. I guess. Does anyone actually paint vehicles like Rhino with a brush though? .

Is this a trick question?


Something wacky like an airbrush seems like it would render the contrast paints ineffective. Or at least more difficult to get the various pigments moved around recesses and raised areas properly.

Contrast acts like a standard paint through an airbrush, it just won't do the pooling in the recesses thing.

Not all that bothered about it, but is anyone else still waiting on their pre-order for these paints?

I have my delivery except for Black which, unfortunately, just about every model that I plan to paint for the foreseeable future requires.

Will pop down to my local GW at the weekend on the offchance they have some but sounds unlikely.

I'll definitely be trying the black on my newly rekindled Ulthwe army!

tneva82 wrote:

 Dark Severance wrote:

 lord_blackfang wrote:
Respect to this man, he has destroyed 3 Rhinos so far so we don't have to.

I mean.. I guess. Does anyone actually paint vehicles like Rhino with a brush though? It is good to see someone actually do an example so there are pictures and video of what we do know, Contrast paints aren't meant for large flat surfaces where there is nothing to contrast and they show brush strokes (because there is no texture to contrast with). Although using the sponge method can give an interesting weather effect which isn't too bad.

Contrast in vehicles might be usable to make stains etc but yeah that's about it. At least with brush. Maybe airbrush it works better.

Although you can airbrush contrast paints, as we've seen, it defeats the whole purpose of the contrast paints. At that point you might as well just airbrush air paints or other paints.

 The Phazer wrote:
I think the issue is how do you paint to match the contrast effect otherwise?

Based on the tests that I have seen done so far, I wouldn't say you use contrast paints to paint the 'whole' body. Contrast paints are just another tool, they aren't meant to completely replace all methods of painting. For larger items and vehicles I'd use standard methods of painting, primer, base coat but instead of the glaze and wash which would only be applied to the recesses (you wouldn't normally paint a whole vehicle drenched in wash), then I'd use the Contrast paints in just the recesses detailed parts of the vehicles (where you'd normally apply washes).

Some of the Contrast paints I ordered came in last night and I tried them out.

They were more or less what I thought they would be - just fancy washes, nothing revolutionary. I've been priming Grots white and "painting" them with green wash for a decade and this doesn't really bring anything new to the table.

I'm not really bagging on them, it's nice to have a bunch of new shades to do these with - but if you're someone who already does primer-base-highlights-wash, this isn't going to do anything new for you and it's not revolutionary.

I think the real target demo for this is essentially kids and people who don't paint at all. Now you can prime your space marines white with a spray can, glop a bunch of contrast on them, and have results that look vastly better than grey legions. In that respect, it's a step forward for the hobby.

It also seems like a good way to get a relatively smooth yellow over a white basecoat without an airbrush if you aren't into airbrushing, which is again a step forward.

If you are doing Green Horde for Orks, or massed Tyranids, this gives you a ton of new hue options that you couldn't easily do with what GW or Army Painter washes did. More choices are always better. For that kind of stuff I'd been mixing up my Les Bursley recipe washes on my own, but this gets you there with no hassles, no experimenting, and probably cheaper to try it out since you're not having to buy a $5 bottle of ink along with flow aid, matte medium, and so on (although over the long run, making your own is vastly cheaper).

I don't hate them, and I don't love them. I will use what I bought but they definitely didn't blow my mind.

If they had announced these paints as a simpler alternative painting system without overhyping them as the next coming, I think I would have been a little more jazzed about them.

Someone mentioned a cheap primer alternative. Something from krylon. What was it? Ivory satin?

 Tyranid Horde wrote:

Voss wrote:

 Dark Severance wrote:

 lord_blackfang wrote:
Respect to this man, he has destroyed 3 Rhinos so far so we don't have to.

I mean.. I guess. Does anyone actually paint vehicles like Rhino with a brush though? .

Is this a trick question?


Something wacky like an airbrush seems like it would render the contrast paints ineffective. Or at least more difficult to get the various pigments moved around recesses and raised areas properly.

Contrast acts like a standard paint through an airbrush, it just won't do the pooling in the recesses thing.

Well, that's kinda my point. You're paying the same price for 18 ml of paint rather than 24 ml for... no real reason.

After finishing my test model, I went ahead and put the base on the rest of the squad. I grabbed a picture just to show what it looks like with the primer -> metallic dry brush -> Black Templar contrast



Strangely, I've found that the easiest way to avoid unwanted pooling is to put a lot on, let the capillary action do it's thing, and trust that it will dry evenly. Only parts that didn't dry how I wanted want the front of the storm shields which I can touch up later. I don't really try to move the paint around on the model, though I may suck some up with the brush.

That Black Templar appears to do exactly what I want it to do for my Deathwatch.

Thanks for showing that off Chris521.

 Dark Severance wrote:

tneva82 wrote:

 Dark Severance wrote:

 lord_blackfang wrote:
Respect to this man, he has destroyed 3 Rhinos so far so we don't have to.

I mean.. I guess. Does anyone actually paint vehicles like Rhino with a brush though? It is good to see someone actually do an example so there are pictures and video of what we do know, Contrast paints aren't meant for large flat surfaces where there is nothing to contrast and they show brush strokes (because there is no texture to contrast with). Although using the sponge method can give an interesting weather effect which isn't too bad.

Contrast in vehicles might be usable to make stains etc but yeah that's about it. At least with brush. Maybe airbrush it works better.

Although you can airbrush contrast paints, as we've seen, it defeats the whole purpose of the contrast paints. At that point you might as well just airbrush air paints or other paints.

 The Phazer wrote:
I think the issue is how do you paint to match the contrast effect otherwise?

Based on the tests that I have seen done so far, I wouldn't say you use contrast paints to paint the 'whole' body. Contrast paints are just another tool, they aren't meant to completely replace all methods of painting. For larger items and vehicles I'd use standard methods of painting, primer, base coat but instead of the glaze and wash which would only be applied to the recesses (you wouldn't normally paint a whole vehicle drenched in wash), then I'd use the Contrast paints in just the recesses detailed parts of the vehicles (where you'd normally apply washes).

Well, you've hit on exactly why you'd airbrush the Contrast paints despite them losing the Contrast medium properties right there in the second part - for vehicles, in order to maintain a consistent colourscheme. Couple of airbrush coats to establish a nice even base, then go in with a brush and apply the Contrast manually to panel lines etc.

And for the people who keep saying "it's just wash" - seriously, let me know what washes you were using before that worked like this, because I've never owned or used one that required less than three or four coats to achieve the same intensity and coverage Contrast achieves in one, and I have washes from just about every brand going and a few I made myself.

Got a couple of hours in at the local GW yesterday trying out the full range(well, almost full, their stock was decimated and in some cases was so low they couldn't even refill the paint station), and I was impressed with almost all of them. Basilicanum Grey was a bit wonky on big smooth surfaces even if I babied it, but everything else I tried was amazing. One coat of Aethermatic over Wraithbone gives me the same effect as five or six applications of Nihiahk Oxide over white for ghosts, Talassar Blue over gold really is one-coat Alpha Legion, all the browns I could try were rich and interesting - I can't wait to give that "splotchy undercoat" method from earlier in the thread a try for leather coats.

Once the stock issues are sorted I'll likely pick up the whole range.

Yeah that black seems to work really well on power armour.

 Chris521 wrote:
After finishing my test model, I went ahead and put the base on the rest of the squad. I grabbed a picture just to show what it looks like with the primer -> metallic dry brush -> Black Templar contrast

Spoiler:

Strangely, I've found that the easiest way to avoid unwanted pooling is to put a lot on, let the capillary action do it's thing, and trust that it will dry evenly. Only parts that didn't dry how I wanted want the front of the storm shields which I can touch up later. I don't really try to move the paint around on the model, though I may suck some up with the brush.

Many thanks for experimenting and sharing!

All I need now is a good white power armour result and madness lies ahead in my direct future.

 Chris521 wrote:
After finishing my test model, I went ahead and put the base on the rest of the squad. I grabbed a picture just to show what it looks like with the primer -> metallic dry brush -> Black Templar contrast

Spoiler:

Strangely, I've found that the easiest way to avoid unwanted pooling is to put a lot on, let the capillary action do it's thing, and trust that it will dry evenly. Only parts that didn't dry how I wanted want the front of the storm shields which I can touch up later. I don't really try to move the paint around on the model, though I may suck some up with the brush.

Hey looking pretty good. My main concern when I first saw examples from some of the pros were that they looked like models by someone that's been painting for a month (and these were minis painted by some pretty good painters...yet commenters were impressed that these talented people had managed to make some semi-passable paint jobs and somehow this was a great sign). Anyway I'm rambling, these look decent, I can't see what your usual stuff looks like (maybe these are a step down IDK) but I quite like these either way.

Has anyone tried painting the Apothecary White over different colors yet to see what effect it might have?

 AduroT wrote:
Has anyone tried painting the Apothecary White over different colors yet to see what effect it might have?

I did it over stormhost silver, but have not tried it over straight colors.

Krylon white primer, stormhost silver and then the three shown in the foreground have apothecary white, Iyaden yellow and Blood angels red on the top half of the shields.

Looks almost like pewter, applied over the silver.

Warhammer Chelmsford have extended their test charts again

https://www.facebook.com/114382948639697/posts/2316474758430494?s=538175713&sfns=mo

White over silver... hmm... that sounds interesting. Where was the example pic of that again?

[EDIT]: Wait, didn't see the pics the first time around.

How convenient that they added Zandri Dust. That's relevant to me.

 hotsauceman1 wrote:
Someone mentioned a cheap primer alternative. Something from krylon. What was it? Ivory satin?

Yes.

Sprue sprayed with Krylon Ivory Satin. Stripes on the left are Wraithbone. Pic was taken in full sun so the satin looks a little bit lighter than it actually is.

What set is that one base from now that they have used a couple dozen of them

 Theophony wrote:
What set is that one base from now that they have used a couple dozen of them

It's a model that they gave away with the initial preorders and it came with a magazine that was like $6 or so as well.