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Lol, sorry I wasn't clear I was meaning Whalemusic's mould, I saw yours and it looks right to me,

If you use talc make sure to shake the daylights out of the mould before pouring the resin so clumps of talc don't ruin the cast.

Aerethan, when you use a syringe to inject resin does it ruin it or can you just pull out the cured resin?

I'll get some pics of em up some time this week.

Each cast costs me a syringe, but cost on them is about 10 cents. The added pressure makes 2 part casting a lot easier.

Basically anything to force bubbles out eh? Somebody (maybe me) should find the thread where someone showed off their Warhound castings where they used a vacuum bell to draw the bubbles out of the liquid resin.

That is degassing. I'd do it but a vacuum rig runs a few hundred dollars. It also works on rubber to get bubbles out when making molds.

I think I remember seeing that set up on the warhounds. IIRC it was a custom rig, if not then it was someone else's rig but it was definitely a custom rig for degassing.

I'll see if I can find it in my saved listed.

If I had a vacuum setup I'd be doing alot more less than legal casting I'm sure. Waiting for my Smooth Cast 305 to show up in the mean time for my base project.

If people need molds made I can offer them as well. Single side ones would of course cost less than 2 piece.

Thanks Aerethan

Here's some new pics of my workings as well as the new bases I'm offering for sale.

Any joy on a 2 piece mold tutorial?

I'll make one as soon as I have something legal to cast.

Sorry WM, I havn't had the chance to make any 2 parts lately..Maybe I can do one of the Soul Drinkers peices as a two part

So I poured some resin this morning, and I dont know if its because I forgot to shake the bottles, or if I got the mixture wrong, but my 10 min set resin was still soft and in some spots clear when I left for work, 4 hours after I poured it.

This is resin pour #2 btw, 1st one worked great!
Any ideas?

I have ended up with soft clearish pours before and I thought it might be due to the age of the resin compounds,

If there are only areas of clear resin it is probably due to mixing though :(

I've had both age and mix cause miscasts. The plastic side of the resin does have a shelf life of under 1 year if not shaken regularly. Parts of it will set on its own and cause a gritty milkshake of resin.

Well the resin is like 3 weeks old, so I doubt that's it. Must just screwed to pooch on that one.

Thanks Aerethan , that explains why some of my bottles have chunks in em!

I still use the old bottles if I am casting large bits for my own use but I certainly don't send anyone pieces made out of it

What I noticed with my year old Smooth Cast 300 is that after it went gritty, casting still went fine(shake well to make the chuncks smaller) but the resin would sweat and pieces have to be cleaned with soapy water(which you should be doing anyway) before anything will stick to them.

Yeah I had problems with paint sticking before I remembered to wash the pieces...I tend to forget these things as I steam ahead to the next stage

Here is a link to the first video in a series done on how to cast 2 part molds and also where I got the idea to use syringes.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jFfXT_Cjpuk

All great info on resin casting.
Myself, I use Alumilite RTV silicone for making my moulds, using the wealth of tutorials they have on their site (alumilite.com).

Thing is, I'm a pewter-caster, not a resin-caster. I find pewter more forgiving of screwups. I can simply recast everything that doesn't come out right, plus the material is readily available from the sprue tabs from my models, plus a tankard or plate here and there from the local thrift shop.

Any other folks invested in pewter casting equipment and materials? I'm having a heck of a time getting fine detail to stay sharp in my molds.

I finally bought some Lego. It wasn't easy either(well, because I'm Cheap). First I tried my nephews and not one of the little buggers would part with it. Then I tried craigslist, classifieds and WOW Lego is expensive! And it's hard to find just bricks. All of them nowadays are like star wars kits or Bionicle kits. So I decided to buy retail. $25 for 250 pieces, $36 for 500 pieces (I'm still too cheap to buy those)

Then finally I find what I'm looking for. 250 pieces for $12!!! ... Mega Bloks!

It's so much easier to make boxes. I made 4 moulds last night and now i can continue working on my projects.

Blackhand - nice tutorial and some nice tips for my next projects. was wondering if you had any pics of the custom bolter magazine at all? interesting to see how that turned out.
cheers

They look alot like Storm bolter mags cut in half, but white instead of gray

One of BH's mags on this guy:


And this guy:

hmm look good, might have to talk nicely to BH about getting a couple from him
cheers

First I would like to say thank you to all who have contributed to this thread! it has answered many of the questions I have had bouncing around my head on this topic.

aerethan wrote:Here is a link to the first video in a series done on how to cast 2 part molds and also where I got the idea to use syringes.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jFfXT_Cjpuk

@aerethan - Thanks for posting the link to this video series. I just finished watching all nine parts and it really simplifies how a 2-part mould is done, and makes it a lot less scary.

Ixajin

awsome thread i'm going to have to make some custom SM shoulders, thanks.

I'm guessing something like a sword/tulwar would need a 2 part mould?

I'm thinking about trying to make myself some power weapons and custome 'chain' weapons.

Yep, they would need a two part, and something as fine as a chain or sword blade could be tricky to cast consistently...but you never know till you try bro!

I have read this entire thread and I must say it looks great.

I do have one question however. Where can I order pinkysil and resin? I live in the Netherlands, Europe. Does anyone have s link of a company that can help me? Thanks in advance.