Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you: No adverts like this in the forums anymore. Times and dates in your local timezone. Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance. Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely. Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net. If you are already a member then feel free to login now.

Sidstyler wrote:Dropper bottles are the reason I switched to Vallejo. More precise mixing and less risk of losing a hundred bucks or more worth of paint from having it dry out too quickly.

While I do like Vallejo for the dropper bottle, I still also use lots of GW paints. You do realize that dry up paint is far from useless, right? They are water-based acrylics, you can just add water and stir it around until it gets back to a usable consistency. I've taken 10 year old bottles that were completely hardened and turned them back into usable paint with a little work and a bit of water.

Knowledge is power, folks. Being unfamiliar with a product does not make the product bad.

ell ill be buying my gamestores supply of scabread and scorched brown!

Friends don't let friends dropper bottles.

Cadaver wrote:

Sidstyler wrote:Dropper bottles are the reason I switched to Vallejo. More precise mixing and less risk of losing a hundred bucks or more worth of paint from having it dry out too quickly.

While I do like Vallejo for the dropper bottle, I still also use lots of GW paints. You do realize that dry up paint is far from useless, right? They are water-based acrylics, you can just add water and stir it around until it gets back to a usable consistency. I've taken 10 year old bottles that were completely hardened and turned them back into usable paint with a little work and a bit of water.

Knowledge is power, folks. Being unfamiliar with a product does not make the product bad.

There metailcs are really good too! Onlyif they did the range in dropper bottles!

Andrew1975 wrote:

I always wondered if that would work. A friend of mine bought a bunch of cheap acrylic paint at Pat Catans and it didn't work so well for him, but maybe it was just him. It seamed like the pigment was not as fine and dried kind of powdery.

Some acrylic paint is rubbish, same as anything else. GW oranges, yellow, etc are rubbish, watery and don't go on without dozens of coats. I guess your mate got bad quality acrylics.

I use artist quality ones like Windsor and Newton, Galleria, Reeves, etc. I get these from all over including supermarkets. As I said they are usually thicker than GW paints as they are designed to squeeze out of tubes and mix on artists's pallets. I simply damp my brushes and get the desired consistency that way. All mainstream British artist suppliers and major chains like WHSmith and Hobbycraft keep extensive ranges of good acrylics. The thicker ones are incredibly useful as well because you can use them undiluted and then the yellows, etc go on properly. The metallics I have are infinitely better than GW ones, for a start off they don't need frantic shaking for ages to try and get an even mix, they come mixed and stay mixed. Be sure that the paints you buy are good quality ones, it's easy to tell. I also like the Americana craft acrylics as they are thinner and come in all sorts of colours, 59ml pots are £1.99.

I despair when people say things like "you can only paint miniatures with GW paints" and look horrified when you use others. They are either ignorant or have been suckered by GW propaganda. I'll bet a GW staffer can give you a long explanation of why you should only ever use GW paints but it is not true. Some of my friends are like this and I honestly think they just like wasting their money.

Another point to bear in mind is that you can mix colours to make the ones you want. If you want some defunct GW colour but something close in an artists's paint range and mix til you get it. Probably not practical for a whole army but for single figures it is painless enough.

Next stop GW brushes, another load of **** which some people 'have' to use. never had brushes that get loose bristles so quickly and for miniature brushes they simply don't come to a sharp enough tip. Kolinsky sable is the way to go but at £4+ a brush they are not cheap. Apparently the makers of Kolinsky make Army Painter brushes, which are much better than GW.

vinsal wrote:I just hope they copy a lot of other good paint products and go dropper bottle style.

This is what I have heard will be happening. Personally, I wish they'd just switch back to a lid that would stay open/upright like the old pots or foundation paints.

I argree with you with the brushes but some of the paint GW make is some of the best in the market. The metalics are suprub. Btw I no a GW fanaticI I honesly perfer supporting local culbs which offer a 20% discount than my local GW.

Isengard wrote:

Andrew1975 wrote:

I always wondered if that would work. A friend of mine bought a bunch of cheap acrylic paint at Pat Catans and it didn't work so well for him, but maybe it was just him. It seamed like the pigment was not as fine and dried kind of powdery.

Some acrylic paint is rubbish, same as anything else. GW oranges, yellow, etc are rubbish, watery and don't go on without dozens of coats. I guess your mate got bad quality acrylics.

I use artist quality ones like Windsor and Newton, Galleria, Reeves, etc. I get these from all over including supermarkets. As I said they are usually thicker than GW paints as they are designed to squeeze out of tubes and mix on artists's pallets. I simply damp my brushes and get the desired consistency that way. All mainstream British artist suppliers and major chains like WHSmith and Hobbycraft keep extensive ranges of good acrylics. The thicker ones are incredibly useful as well because you can use them undiluted and then the yellows, etc go on properly. The metallics I have are infinitely better than GW ones, for a start off they don't need frantic shaking for ages to try and get an even mix, they come mixed and stay mixed. Be sure that the paints you buy are good quality ones, it's easy to tell. I also like the Americana craft acrylics as they are thinner and come in all sorts of colours, 59ml pots are £1.99.

I despair when people say things like "you can only paint miniatures with GW paints" and look horrified when you use others. They are either ignorant or have been suckered by GW propaganda. I'll bet a GW staffer can give you a long explanation of why you should only ever use GW paints but it is not true. Some of my friends are like this and I honestly think they just like wasting their money.

Another point to bear in mind is that you can mix colours to make the ones you want. If you want some defunct GW colour but something close in an artists's paint range and mix til you get it. Probably not practical for a whole army but for single figures it is painless enough.

Next stop GW brushes, another load of **** which some people 'have' to use. never had brushes that get loose bristles so quickly and for miniature brushes they simply don't come to a sharp enough tip. Kolinsky sable is the way to go but at £4+ a brush they are not cheap. Apparently the makers of Kolinsky make Army Painter brushes, which are much better than GW.

people get what they get...

personally i don't have a problem with gw yellows. but i also wouldn't limit myself to one brand, i just use what works FOR ME, and for what i'm doing. but i don't really like winsor acrylics for minis, just not what i like to work with though. i don't like the paint pots currently, i dont' mind the dropper bottles, but it's also just not that big of a deal ether way.

brushes are another personal preference and sometimes availability... i've generaly prefered the rapheals, winsors and escodas, but i have some gw brushes as well, and have never had a problem...

Isengard wrote:

Andrew1975 wrote:

I always wondered if that would work. A friend of mine bought a bunch of cheap acrylic paint at Pat Catans and it didn't work so well for him, but maybe it was just him. It seamed like the pigment was not as fine and dried kind of powdery.

Some acrylic paint is rubbish, same as anything else. GW oranges, yellow, etc are rubbish, watery and don't go on without dozens of coats. I guess your mate got bad quality acrylics.

I use artist quality ones like Windsor and Newton, Galleria, Reeves, etc. I get these from all over including supermarkets. As I said they are usually thicker than GW paints as they are designed to squeeze out of tubes and mix on artists's pallets. I simply damp my brushes and get the desired consistency that way. All mainstream British artist suppliers and major chains like WHSmith and Hobbycraft keep extensive ranges of good acrylics. The thicker ones are incredibly useful as well because you can use them undiluted and then the yellows, etc go on properly. The metallics I have are infinitely better than GW ones, for a start off they don't need frantic shaking for ages to try and get an even mix, they come mixed and stay mixed. Be sure that the paints you buy are good quality ones, it's easy to tell. I also like the Americana craft acrylics as they are thinner and come in all sorts of colours, 59ml pots are £1.99.

I despair when people say things like "you can only paint miniatures with GW paints" and look horrified when you use others. They are either ignorant or have been suckered by GW propaganda. I'll bet a GW staffer can give you a long explanation of why you should only ever use GW paints but it is not true. Some of my friends are like this and I honestly think they just like wasting their money.

Another point to bear in mind is that you can mix colours to make the ones you want. If you want some defunct GW colour but something close in an artists's paint range and mix til you get it. Probably not practical for a whole army but for single figures it is painless enough.

Next stop GW brushes, another load of **** which some people 'have' to use. never had brushes that get loose bristles so quickly and for miniature brushes they simply don't come to a sharp enough tip. Kolinsky sable is the way to go but at £4+ a brush they are not cheap. Apparently the makers of Kolinsky make Army Painter brushes, which are much better than GW.

I used to use Ral Partha paints almost exclusively as they were pretty good and the bottle was about twice the size and cheaper. Don't get me started on GW modeling supplies, what you can't get from the dollar store (super glue, PVA glue) you can get at harbor freight for much much cheaper than the GW stuff. The fact that GW even offers superglue $6.60 and pva glue $8.25 let's me kow that they think we are rubes, the fact that some people buy it makes me know that in some cases they can feel completely justified charging what they do for everything. I mean if you will pay $8.50 for white glue why shouldn't they charge $10 for a miniature?

I thought most of GW's brushes were (supposedly) Kolinsky sable... Well, except the drybrushes really.

I was in a model train store recently looking for a new brush or two (as well as some undercoat spray). And well, if I thought I was getting ripped off from GW, that's a whole other league.

Ended up getting the sprays from army painter, still not found a brush I'm comfortable with though.

Compel wrote:I thought most of GW's brushes were (supposedly) Kolinsky sable... Well, except the drybrushes really.

I was in a model train store recently looking for a new brush or two (as well as some undercoat spray). And well, if I thought I was getting ripped off from GW, that's a whole other league.

Ended up getting the sprays from army painter, still not found a brush I'm comfortable with though.

Consider Winsor and Newton Series 7 brushes

http://www.dickblick.com/products/winsor-and-newton-series-7-kolinsky-sable-miniature-brushes/

Sasori wrote:

Compel wrote:I thought most of GW's brushes were (supposedly) Kolinsky sable... Well, except the drybrushes really.

I was in a model train store recently looking for a new brush or two (as well as some undercoat spray). And well, if I thought I was getting ripped off from GW, that's a whole other league.

Ended up getting the sprays from army painter, still not found a brush I'm comfortable with though.

Consider Winsor and Newton Series 7 brushes

http://www.dickblick.com/products/winsor-and-newton-series-7-kolinsky-sable-miniature-brushes/

I also use these brushes, excellent quality and they last far longer than gws brushes.

Isengard wrote:Apparently the makers of Kolinsky make Army Painter brushes...

Kolinsky isn't a brand name, but the type of hair used in the brush. In this case I believe its a type of weasel native to Russia.

Sasori wrote:Consider Winsor and Newton Series 7 brushes

http://www.dickblick.com/products/winsor-and-newton-series-7-kolinsky-sable-miniature-brushes/

Or, if you're in the UK, look at the Rosemary & Co series 33. I'd also recommend a series 323 3/0 for fine detail work, but that's just me. I've got a 1/8" series 78 that I've been using for some light drybrushing as well.

As a retailer, I can say with a good deal of confidence that the changes will NOT simply be the addition or removal of colors. As a comparison, when the Citadel Wash Set was discontinued, Games Workshop did not even bother to notify independent retailers, they simply dropped it off our orders. Advising retailers to sell down current inventory means that there will be significant differences between old product and new.

Most of Citadel's competing paint brands (Army Painter, Vallejo, and Reaper) use the 1/2 oz dropper bottles. Bear in mind, Citadel's current 1/4 oz bottle sells for $3.70, which is half the product for a higher price than their competitors. Also, Army Painter is releasing their 36 color Warpaints line in February, and they will be matching pigments to their colour primers. Retail on the Warpaints will be between $3.00 and $3.25 for 1/2 oz bottles. I am certain that Citadel's move will be a response to Army Painter's release.

I see a lot of brand loyalty to Citadel. 90% of the time, it is a simply a matter of conditioning. The box says "Red Gore" so they need a pot of Red Gore, regardless of how good a match Reaper Master Series Deep Red is. Having used multiple brands myself, I can tell you that Citadel has the worst flow characteristics out of the pot, and of all the paints I sell, I receive more complaints about Citadel products being DOA than all the other brands I sell combined. The customers I know that paint professionally (charge others for their painting services) never buy Citadel.

I don't like to make predictions without any real data, but if Citadel doesn't plan to move to 1/2 oz packaging, with an improved formula for less than $4.00 a bottle, There simply isn't any point to making any changes at all...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Games-Workshop-CITADEL-PAINTS-x5-Brand-New-/260948310834

Looks like this is the change we are seeing. Foundation paints and secondary layers?

NecronLord3 wrote:http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Games-Workshop-CITADEL-PAINTS-x5-Brand-New-/260948310834

Looks like this is the change we are seeing. Foundation paints and secondary layers?

Slaanesh Grey? do want

Looks like the prediction from some time ago that GW would start incorporating copyrighted naming on their paints was correct. Cadian Fleshtone, Slaanesh Grey etc.

jmsincla wrote:

This is what I have heard will be happening. Personally, I wish they'd just switch back to a lid that would stay open/upright like the old pots or foundation paints.

I'm with you here - either have to stretch the doggone thing backwards and risk it snapping (but usually just closes back up) or try to fish under the mostly-closed lid. I loved the lids of the Foundation Paints, but then they took the little tab off those, too, so now they don't stay open well either. Sadness...

Dropers bottles leek realy bad if they get stored on thier sides. Their TERRIBLE for people who like to paint of the go and at FLGS's.

I got some recently, and this was a huge issue for me.

I like the current pots because they seal tightly, aren't a paint in the ass to try and open, and can be stores sideways....

NecronLord3 wrote:http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Games-Workshop-CITADEL-PAINTS-x5-Brand-New-/260948310834

Looks like this is the change we are seeing. Foundation paints and secondary layers?

For the work blocked/if the auction gets taken down:

I guess they're taking a page from Reaper and PP's book.

You prime with GW's Citadel non-primer spray.
You base-coat with Citadel Base.
You base-coat stubborn areas with Citadel Foundation.
You expose details with Citadel Wash.
You finish up with Citadel Layer.

What's next? Highlight with Citadel Highlight? Glaze with Citadel Glaze?

This jumble may confuse some people.

Reaper has had their "trinity" sets of colors for a while now to good effect. Base-coat with the middle color, shade with the darker color, and then highlight with the light color. That was simple.

Either way, more variety is always a good thing. I just hope they clearly explain the difference between Skull White and White Scar.

With all this unnecessary convolution, perhaps those 6thEd rules are true after all...

Absolutionis wrote:I guess they're taking a page from Reaper and PP's book.

You prime with GW's Citadel non-primer spray.
You base-coat with Citadel Base.
You base-coat stubborn areas with Citadel Foundation.
You expose details with Citadel Wash.
You finish up with Citadel Layer.

What's next? Highlight with Citadel Highlight? Glaze with Citadel Glaze?

This jumble may confuse some people.

Reaper has had their "trinity" sets of colors for a while now to good effect. Base-coat with the middle color, shade with the darker color, and then highlight with the light color. That was simple.

Either way, more variety is always a good thing. I just hope they clearly explain the difference between Skull White and White Scar.

With all this unnecessary convolution, perhaps those 6thEd rules are true after all...

I'd say it's more likely just intended as:
Foundation/Wash/Layer.

I'd be surprised if Skull White existed anymore.

Scar White = Skull White
Screaming Bell = looks like Vermin Brown to me.
Cadian Fleshton = looks like Elf Flesh
Slaanesh Grey = Actually looks like a light Shadow Grey.

I'm thinking a lot of the old colors will be gone. I'm tempted to run stock up on some - but I've mentally committed to switching to Vallejo for some time now anyway.

My God the lengths GW will go to Copyright something.

I just ran out of Chaos Black and need to stop by the local GW to pick some up. Hopefully they'll still have some left.

Well that answers the question about paint pots. Same old crap pots, but with a nice new shiny price tag most likely
Hopefully these pots will have the tab to keep the lids open.
So do I start with base or foundation? And then do I layer or base? I am seeing some real bad thought process for these.
Slaanesh and Grey are two words that I normally associate with each other

FabricatorGeneralMike wrote:

Maelstrom808 wrote:

DIDM wrote:

silent25 wrote:Broke out some Vallejo the other day to use some colors that GW doesn't normally have and was reminded why I didn't switch to them. Can't get consistent colors and no matter how hard I shake, get a poorly mixed stream of color. Trying to get a couple drops and get a giant squirt. Friend brought up why he stopped using them. The dropper cap can come off. Squeeze too hard and cap shoots off spraying paint everywhere. Any container capable of catastrophic failure that sprays paint everywhere is a deal killer. Hope GW doesn't switch to the dropper pots.
Would like to use P3 more, but my LGS still hasn't been able to get a restock

Gentle hands

painting is a gentle hand activity

Also keeping a heavy sewing machine needle on hand to push through clots in the tips does wonders.

I found that the vallejo paints tend to congiel rather badly until I added 'agitators' inside the paint bottle and vola problem solved. I personally love the dapper bottle's but to each there own. I just used little steel ball bearings. I got a whole handful and Rona for like nothing. Plus they make good ammo for my friends sling shot.

What type of "agitator? I have several paints that coul use a drop of whatever it is.

Absolutionis wrote:You prime with GW's Citadel non-primer spray.

Wait... wut?

Slaanesh Grey? That makes as much sense as Ultramarines orange!

Andrew1975 wrote:Slaanesh Grey? That makes as much sense as Ultramarines orange!

It's the color you turn after Daemonette Red.