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your sword looks nice but maybe a little bit little for a katana. there bigger than a british bash sword about the same lenght as a long sword (correct me if i am mistaken i can't say for a 120%)

Monkey, if yuor going to be casting those, I can think of a few people who might want a few :-P

Those look really good. I like the "clover"-type guard rather than the circle.

fatty wrote:your sword looks nice but maybe a little bit little for a katana. there bigger than a british bash sword about the same lenght as a long sword (correct me if i am mistaken i can't say for a 120%)

Katana is about 1m; the nodachi is about 1.5m. Katan size could differ due to the period they were made and the size of the owner. The Nodachi is a typicale two-handed sword, used vs cavalry, probably best represented rules-wise by relic blades. Still, for minis I suggest the rule of cool

well nodachi's normale size was atleast 2m. considering that the warrior riding the horse would use it too ride down opponnents and then a helper stapped the opponnent dead. katana's where useually between 1,50 and 1,80 m. and thats the complete weapon blade and handel

See this link...

http://swordforum.com/swords/nihonto/choosinglength.html

This is much more in-line with my observations from the historical record and my experience sword fighting.

Checked out the same forum to make sure . I'm 6'2", so 1 m is about right for me - for a 7' space marine they could even be slightly bigger

Gits: what kind of swordfighting did you practice? I did western Medieval (German style mainly).

You japanese sword guys are seriously nerding me out on this miniatures wargaming painting blog.

Similar. Belonged to a Medieval Recreation group here in the states for 15+ years. Real armor but not real swords, use rattan so we can pound on each other without worrying too much about serious injury. Fighting with a katana-like weapon (tsuba and all) was my specialty for many years... so I come at this from a very pragmatic viewpoint. I've never been trained in formal use of a katana, but I know what works, how a sword is supposed to feel and how it moves with your body. Though having a real blade on the weapon does change the dynamic quite a bit.

Ended up a two-handed sword specialist... probably not too far off from what you were working with. However I do know enough about Western great-sword styles to know that my style was nothing close. Our safety regs made most of what you'd really do with a weapon like that illegal (and with good reason).

Fatty: I could understand that.. but don't let the current weapons scale confuse you. The average katana blade that was (and is) most commonly in use is around 26-30inches .. the most common measurement for this is (point to ground) roughly mid thigh height. So this is what I used as the scale for this blade. For a marine this is roughly accurate for length.. I did however make it a bit wider than it should be.. mostly because it's a power weapon and a thiny weeny blade would look a little odd.

Wolf: Eh? Seriously? Once I put the tsuba on and finish it up it wouldnt be hard to cast these up at all. If you thought they were something you could actually use I could totally cast a couple up. Haha.

Shrike: Thanks bud, I tend to agree. My intention was a clover shape becuase it's my favourite (it's also what 'lola' my sword has), luckily gits wanted the exact same thing I did! Thought I'd have a crack at a circular one while I was there.

Khaine: Nice! I've always been interesting in learning western medieval! I've done San-Ryu-Do, Kenjustu and some Kobudo through the shorin-ryu system. It's always interested me how medieval european has been glazed over vs the eastern and more asian styles when in reality they're just as complicated!

Git's: You keen on the clover tsuba also I presume? What do you think of the scale?

theres the catch. i train japanese millitary martial arts or bujinkan and we train mostly teqnicks from before 1600. the funny thing with japanese swords is that they became shorter rather then longer. i believe that the biggest sword was around 3.8 meters (not usable but pure craftsmanship). that might explain why we use differtent lenghts i will ask my trainer about this but your right my boken messuers just 40" its to small for me

Similar. Belonged to a Medieval Recreation group here in the states for 15+ years. Real armor but not real swords, use rattan so we can pound on each other without worrying too much about serious injury. Fighting with a katana-like weapon (tsuba and all) was my specialty for many years... so I come at this from a very pragmatic viewpoint. I've never been trained in formal use of a katana, but I know what works, how a sword is supposed to feel and how it moves with your body. Though having a real blade on the weapon does change the dynamic quite a bit.

Ended up a two-handed sword specialist... probably not too far off from what you were working with. However I do know enough about Western great-sword styles to know that my style was nothing close. Our safety regs made most of what you'd really do with a weapon like that illegal (and with good reason).

Nice! We used real swords though, made acquiring decent armour a priority . Actually, when wearing full plate a one-handed sword gave you a bit of a bruise, but that's about it (we d hold back though - safety first). Maces and axes on the other hands... Eastern weapons were rarely used (though I did practice aikido and shao-lin as well). I've always been a sword-and-shield specialist: up close and personal . Western greatsword (especially German styles) was rarely used in tourneys, for the same reason as you stated: safety regs

Khaine: Nice! I've always been interesting in learning western medieval! I've done San-Ryu-Do, Kenjustu and some Kobudo through the shorin-ryu system. It's always interested me how medieval european has been glazed over vs the eastern and more asian styles when in reality they're just as complicated!

Your cv seems pretty nice as well . I think the main difference lies in the armour: In European styles: getting hit doesn't really matter when it's full-on your plate, so you can afford to take a hit if it means you set your opponent up for the killing blow. Think space marine vs eldar: faith in your armour vs faith in your speed . And for those wondering: I can pull a (short) sprint in my full plate and move pretty quickly as well, it's not like we're lumbering behemoths

Slightly back on topic: Gits, have you considered kama for your mantis warriors? It would fit their imagery and allow for some varation.

Oooo.. starts jotting down kama ideas.. OH and tonfa! Oh Kama mantis tonfa! OMG.

Any chance you can make me a power crobar

I want a power-cane and bowler hat. I have a chaplain called charlie who could really use it. Seriously.

I wonder if there is a possible Preying Mantis conversion based on a Techmarine with full servo-harness?

Progress, slow but sure. I think the turrets are done for now. There's always more little things to pick out but since I'm painting on a schedule I'm going to drop back the detail on these a bit. Really just have the vents, treads and door designs on these to do (oh, and the hand rails) and I think I'll call them done. Weathering will have to wait until I know I've got the rest of the army painted, then I can come back and start adding details to make them special.



@Monkeh: I presume you mean scale of the sword/ tsuba to the marine? I think to look in line with most 40k weaponry, the sword in Inushi's hand should be scaled up about 25-30 percent. Hope that's what you were asking.

@CommissarKhaine: I hadn't. Kind of a peasant weapon aren't they? Well, at least in origin. I guess I'm trying to pay homage to a Japanese heritage without totally losing all relation to imperial norms. They'd be interesting though... kind of mini mantis arms... I'll have to think about that.

@Fifty: Now that's a curiously interesting idea... I had some ideas for a MoTF, and for another charachter using a preying mantis conversion, but I hadn't put two and two together in that particular way... very interesting...

Yellow ftw! Amazing! Sponge weathering of a nice dark brown would take 15 minutes for both though, think about it! Great job bud.

OK MT, you talked me into it.... sponge weathering it is... now rather than later.

I officially declare this thread to ge running riot! Awesome!

well git if you want too go japanese with them why dont you make shuko's and make them as count as lightning claws? its basicly the same with the blades on the palm. and i can see them making a slight mantis like attack with them.

well since everybody is telling there spesciality i am a small weapons expert if i can call myself that. shuko's, tanto's and various metal rods with wich i can poke your pressure points

@CommissarKhaine: I hadn't. Kind of a peasant weapon aren't they? Well, at least in origin. I guess I'm trying to pay homage to a Japanese heritage without totally losing all relation to imperial norms. They'd be interesting though... kind of mini mantis arms... I'll have to think about that.

Yep, used to cut rice abd grass, and then adopted by the ninja since ninja, were, basically, peasants . I felt the basic shape would be a nice nod to the praying mantis's arms. Also, any pick-axe type weapon is highly effective because of it's penetrative (sp?) power.

To penetrate armor you need mass too. Favorite late-medieval weapon was a hammer or axe with a Raven's Beak... wonderful weapon. Beautiful and murderously efficient. Not sure what "weaponized" kama look like in cross-section but you'd have to really beef them up if you were going to penetrate armor with them.

Back to the tanks...

What do you guys think about decals for it? I have a bunch... unit/imperial markings and such, but am not in the habbit of using them. Any thoughts? Not sure I'd even know where to put them that made any sense.

Don't put any on that don't directly relate to mantis warriors. It looks too good, and I fear that they might spoil it.

Gitsplitta wrote:To penetrate armor you need mass too. Favorite late-medieval weapon was a hammer or axe with a Raven's Beak... wonderful weapon. Beautiful and murderously efficient. Not sure what "weaponized" kama look like in cross-section but you'd have to really beef them up if you were going to penetrate armor with them.

Back to the tanks...

What do you guys think about decals for it? I have a bunch... unit/imperial markings and such, but am not in the habbit of using them. Any thoughts? Not sure I'd even know where to put them that made any sense.

I like adding all the decals I can of one number per tank. Like the normal 7, and then the roman numeral 7, etc.
I think it makes them stand out a bit more. Also, if you have Witch-hunters transfers (for some reason) I like adding one (or two) the the mini 'walls of text' to mimic honors etc written on the tank.

I use decals, but I use decal setter (it thins the decals) and then I use a sharp pointed Sharpie to outline the edges and then paint over the decal with real paint. I think the glossyness of the decals are a turn off and the paint makes them look much better.

Be sure to gloss coat your model first if you use decals. Then add the decal with some decal thinner (Micro-set if I remember right). Allow that to dry, do your painting and Sharpying, and seal with gloss coat again (light coat, sharpy markers can run with too much gloss).

After your done, do a dullcoat from Testors..

Here is my crappy rendition on where you could put details


That blob of black is supposed to be Roman Numeral 8. I accidentally did it wrong, so I scribbled it out.
Also, I failed at drawing a mantis head, because I can't draw using a mouse lol.

(the normal 7 could also be behind the other light, same as both 8's, or the roman numeral 8 could be next to the other 8)

Im thinking I might run her as something of a commissar, and give her vengeance rounds or inferno bolts. A canonness is just... a VERY obvious model, so unless you are also fielding a squad of sisters who are her aides/retainers, I would insist on running her much like a commissar.

The fluff for my "chapter" is that a series of forces were sent in to mop up a chaos attack. While there they fell into a warp storm, and not knowing how long they would survive pooled their resources--after they took substantial losses. Several marine companies and SoB were sent in and hardly any made it out at the end. At the end though, they were mixed, and had dabbled in heresy because some level of hybridization of the gene-seed products had occurred and there were a few female proto-astartes. Additionally marines had 'cross contaminated' their gene-seed by borrowing missing parts from the other chapters present. Over the course of the fighting, suits of armor were lost and replacements were obtained through the ritual purgation of traitor suits.

I would say she is a special character that operates outside your FoC, but otherwise acts like an HQ choice. The trick is to make her reasonable. For example, look at the SM characters and try to build them from using one of the basic HQ choices. After taking all obtainable equipment, and borrowing weapon costs from other entries, a space marine captain comes out to 190 points, and lacks the doctrines Vulkan brings, as well as Vulkan's Mantle... So any bonus you give to your custom special character either needs to be taken from whatver book the SoB have, or at least make the point cost appropriate. I have seen people claim that what should have been a 300+ point model was worth only around 125, disregard that it has WS 7 BS 7, T5, already comes with a full servo harness and 3 attacks base, with artificer armor and an iron halo, along with master crafted power weapon and master crafted plasma pistol.... oh, and the space marine is made of awesome and win so he has initiative 6......... I remember VERY well the horrendous attempt that I came across of trying to make a fan-made "balanced" Iron Warriors codex.

Whatever role the cannonness fills, it should not be a basic runt. Alternatively, run her and her retainers as a command squad, less the apothecary, and she replaces the champion. Maybe run them as an independent squad? Whatever you do mate, I like some non-Standard Template Design thinking. Cheers and good luck with whatever you do.

Hm...

You have me thinking.. do you think there would be a demand for resin "Arrows" "Chevrons" and "X" icons for vehicles?

I think you can find roman numerals and arabic numbers in brass...

I would be sold, especially if it is in some form of brass, then I can just apply that to a variety of models other than GW's.