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Made in us
The Last Chancer Who Survived




On moon miranda.

 Knockagh wrote:
I'm a farmer so I need one for the old vermin. I've a .22 rifle for mr fox and a shotgun for the rest! I also have a World War One Lee Enfield my uncle bought me for my 21st birthday. When he bought me it he also bought for himself the World War One German Mauser rifle. When he passed away he left me it so I now have the pair. They don't do much. Truth is none of the guns do much. I just kind of have them locked in the gun safe.
Well take 'em to a range sometime and put them to some use

 Ouze wrote:
 Spacemanvic wrote:
Possibly because I have the proper tools and experience, I can build a lower in well under 10 minutes. Much less if Im using a drop-in trigger. Ar's are by far the easiest guns I work on.


As a side note, while I doubt I'll ever be able to do it in 10 minutes, there are definitely some tools I didn't have that I just ordered for next time - specifically, a pivot pin installation tool and a roll pin starter punch set. Any other suggestions?
I'm no AR wizard, all I used was the punch set, but if you're gonna use a traditional front sight and handguard on an upper at any point, there's a "cheater bar" AR handguard tool that you can get for loke $15 that really makes installing and removing that way easier.

This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2017/04/20 21:56:21


IRON WITHIN, IRON WITHOUT.

Heavy Gear Painting Log, Northern Guard, Southern Republican Army, and Terrain
The correct pronunciation is Imperial Guard and Stormtroopers, "Astra Militarum" and "Tempestus Scions" are something you'll find at Hogwarts.  
   
Made in us
Fixture of Dakka





Hovering Squid World 97A

 Ouze wrote:
specifically, a pivot pin installation tool and a roll pin starter punch set. Any other suggestions?
Yeah, that pivot pin tool is a must have. I tried doing it without one on my Blackout build and it just pissed me off so I went over to my brother's house to use his. The roll pin starter punches are nice too and if you plan on building more you should probably pick some up.

An aluminium upper receiver vise clock is nice too and practically a necessity with all the non-standard receivers out there now, but they aren't cheap.

 d-usa wrote:
"When the Internet sends its people, they're not sending their best. They're not sending you. They're not sending you. They're sending posters that have lots of problems, and they're bringing those problems with us. They're bringing strawmen. They're bringing spam. They're trolls. And some, I assume, are good people."
 
   
Made in us
[DCM]
#morongate







Are aluminum ones better? I have plastic ones that seem to be holding up OK.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2017/04/21 05:15:46


 
   
Made in us
Fixture of Dakka





Hovering Squid World 97A

 Ouze wrote:
Are aluminum ones better? I have plastic ones that seem to be holding up OK.

Yes, they are better and worth it if you plan on building more rifles. Since they secure the rifle using the takedown lugs, I trust it way more that the polymer clamshell style.

 d-usa wrote:
"When the Internet sends its people, they're not sending their best. They're not sending you. They're not sending you. They're sending posters that have lots of problems, and they're bringing those problems with us. They're bringing strawmen. They're bringing spam. They're trolls. And some, I assume, are good people."
 
   
Made in us
[DCM]
#morongate







Ok, I screwed something minor up

Fired the first 100 rounds through it. Accuracy is good, I had a single FTF on the first mag. However, frequently the trigger doesn't reset - I pull, it shoots, it cycles, it feeds, but trigger stays depressed - i have to nudge the trigger forward with my finger and I hear a click. Did I screw up installing the A.) trigger, B.) hammer, or C.) disconnector? It doesn't always do this, but it does it quite a lot - at least half my shots.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2017/04/21 16:53:12


 
   
Made in us
The Last Chancer Who Survived




On moon miranda.

My first guess would be disconnector or trigger spring.

IRON WITHIN, IRON WITHOUT.

Heavy Gear Painting Log, Northern Guard, Southern Republican Army, and Terrain
The correct pronunciation is Imperial Guard and Stormtroopers, "Astra Militarum" and "Tempestus Scions" are something you'll find at Hogwarts.  
   
Made in us
[DCM]
#morongate







I made some gentle sandpaper passes where the disconnector catches the trigger - it felt rough. I can't reproduce it now (and I was able to pretty easily before) so I think it's fixed.
   
Made in us
The Last Chancer Who Survived




On moon miranda.

Sweet, glad to hear it!

IRON WITHIN, IRON WITHOUT.

Heavy Gear Painting Log, Northern Guard, Southern Republican Army, and Terrain
The correct pronunciation is Imperial Guard and Stormtroopers, "Astra Militarum" and "Tempestus Scions" are something you'll find at Hogwarts.  
   
Made in us
Dakka Veteran





 Ouze wrote:
 Spacemanvic wrote:
Possibly because I have the proper tools and experience, I can build a lower in well under 10 minutes. Much less if Im using a drop-in trigger. Ar's are by far the easiest guns I work on.


As a side note, while I doubt I'll ever be able to do it in 10 minutes, there are definitely some tools I didn't have that I just ordered for next time - specifically, a pivot pin installation tool and a roll pin starter punch set. Any other suggestions?


Sorry Ouze, been running around lately, just checked in.

When installing the pivot pin, I have a trick. I put the spring, then use a finishing nail to compress the spring as far down as I can. Then I use a pushpin (even a thick safety pin), and push it in the wee hole that is on the side of the cavity that the spring goes into. I keep the pin pushed in the hole as I draw the nail out, trapping the compressed spring. The pressure of the spring pushing against the nail keeps the spring from flying out. I then drop the detent into the hole, slide the front pivot pin into place, then pull the pushpin out. The spring flies forward, the detent clicks into place, then I slide the pivot pin in then slide it out to the point the detent keeps it trap. I then leave it in the open position until I drop the upper into the lower.

when getting the punch set, make sure you get a set that has steel as well as brass punches. I also get a small 4oz hammer as well as a a set of needle nose pliers. A rubber mallet is a good idea too. Also the Wheeler Engineering Delta Series AR-15 Armorer's Bench Block. Makes working on the lower receiver a helluva lot easier to work with. Black electrical tape: when installing the bolt catch paddle pin, you'll want a bit of tape on the receiver so as to not mark up the receiver while holding the pin in place.

When putting in the trigger guard, always support the part of the lower "ear". This part can break easy. I use a mini C-clamp to press the part into place instead of trying to hammer it into place.


Automatically Appended Next Post:
 ScootyPuffJunior wrote:
 Ouze wrote:
specifically, a pivot pin installation tool and a roll pin starter punch set. Any other suggestions?
Yeah, that pivot pin tool is a must have. I tried doing it without one on my Blackout build and it just pissed me off so I went over to my brother's house to use his. The roll pin starter punches are nice too and if you plan on building more you should probably pick some up.

An aluminum upper receiver vise clock is nice too and practically a necessity with all the non-standard receivers out there now, but they aren't cheap.


I've steered away from a block on the upper receiver. I use what the military uses: barrel vise blocks. The upper receiver is essentially an empty can. It is pretty easier to warp it out of spec. When removing or installing a barrel, you are sometimes working at 40-70 foot pounds torque, depending on which mon-keigh installed the barrel in the first place and if they used anti-seize at all. I usually use a piece of junk rubber hose to protect the barrel when I lock the barrel vise on it. But even if the barrel rolls in the vise block, a little kroil will remove the aluminum streaks from the steel barrel.


Automatically Appended Next Post:
 Ouze wrote:
Ok, I screwed something minor up

Fired the first 100 rounds through it. Accuracy is good, I had a single FTF on the first mag. However, frequently the trigger doesn't reset - I pull, it shoots, it cycles, it feeds, but trigger stays depressed - i have to nudge the trigger forward with my finger and I hear a click. Did I screw up installing the A.) trigger, B.) hammer, or C.) disconnector? It doesn't always do this, but it does it quite a lot - at least half my shots.


It's either the disco having a bur or flash, the disco spring installed upside down, the trigger spring installed upside down, or your pins arent being kept in place and walking a little with recoil.

Do this for me and tell me what your results are:

1. Remove the magazine, and clear the chamber.
2. With your finger OFF the trigger, charge your rifle.
3. Put the safety in the SAFE position.
4. Squeeze the trigger.
-The hammer should NOT be released.
5. Remove your finger from the trigger.
6. Put the safety in the FIRE position.
7. Squeeze the trigger, and HOLD IT DOWN. Do NOT release pressure from the trigger.
-The hammer should be released.
8. While maintaining pressure on the trigger, charge your rifle.
9. Release pressure from the trigger.
-You should hear an audible "click" as the disconnect disengages, and the sear engages the hammer.
10. Squeeze the trigger.
-The hammer should be released.

If you don't hear this click, and the step 10 does not result in the hammer releasing... your disconnect/hammer connection is flawed.

A malfunctioning FCG can be a dangerous thing. If it begins to double fire or go FA, ATF will love you tenderly, long-time.


Automatically Appended Next Post:
 Ouze wrote:
I made some gentle sandpaper passes where the disconnector catches the trigger - it felt rough. I can't reproduce it now (and I was able to pretty easily before) so I think it's fixed.


Cool, maybe it was just a bur on the disco. Can happen with MIM parts. I'd still go through the trouble shooting JIC.

As an aside, took the wife unit out shooting for our 19th anniversary. She blew through 200 rds of 22LR and 300 rds of LC 556. She had a blast shooting our daughters Ruger MKIII pistol and the AR pistol and one of the AR carbines. When I first gave her a loaded Pmag, she said 30rds was probably enough. About a minute later, she asked for another mag, then another, then another LOL. I did warn her the AR likes to eat, alot!


Automatically Appended Next Post:
Also before I forget, use this excellent guide on maintenance of your AR rifle:

http://pdf.textfiles.com/manuals/MILITARY/Army%20M16A2%20and%20M4%20manual.pdf

This message was edited 6 times. Last update was at 2017/04/23 03:48:30


 
   
Made in us
[DCM]
#morongate







This thread has done very well by ignoring politics, and I have no intention of breaking that trend. I'm posting this as a FYI news type item: The ATF has (again) reversed it's stance on shouldering rifles with arm braces.

You're allowed to shoulder them again, and it's not a redesign that creates a SBR.


“an NFA firearm has not necessarily been made when the device is not reconfigured for use as a shoulder stock – even if the attached firearm happens to be fired from the shoulder. To the extent that the January 2015 Open Letter implied or has been construed to hold that incidental, sporadic, or situational “use” of an arm-brace (in its original approved configuration) equipped firearm from a firing position at or near the shoulder was sufficient to constitute “redesign,” such interpretations are incorrect and not consistent with ATF’s interpretation of the statute or the manner in which it has historically been enforced.”

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2017/04/26 05:19:32


 
   
Made in us
Dakka Veteran




I had thought about posting that too.
   
Made in us
Fixture of Dakka






One important thing to note about the ATF letter is that it only applies to braces that do not permanently affix to the firearm.

Friction fit or set screw attachment seems fine, but any kind of red loctite/weld/bolt/whatever that permanently attaches it seems to be a no-no if you want to shoulder the thing.

"The Omnissiah is my Moderati" 
   
Made in us
Powerful Pegasus Knight






I should be picking up my first pistol this winter

Probably a cheapo model 21 smith and wesson 9mm~ - not sure yet. Ideally I'll pick up one for my SO and figure out which glock or sig I'd want for myself



 
   
Made in us
5th God of Chaos! (Yea'rly!)




The Great State of Texas

 Nostromodamus wrote:
One important thing to note about the ATF letter is that it only applies to braces that do not permanently affix to the firearm.

Friction fit or set screw attachment seems fine, but any kind of red loctite/weld/bolt/whatever that permanently attaches it seems to be a no-no if you want to shoulder the thing.

To be frank, this feels to twitchy to spend money one way or another. While the pragmatic liability is deminimis, the potential liability is higher.

Best to just buy a Venezuelan AK out of the back of a van.

-"Wait a minute.....who is that Frazz is talking to in the gallery? Hmmm something is going on here.....Oh.... it seems there is some dispute over video taping of some sort......Frazz is really upset now..........wait a minute......whats he go there.......is it? Can it be?....Frazz has just unleashed his hidden weiner dog from his mini bag, while quoting shakespeares "Let slip the dogs the war!!" GG
-"Don't mind Frazzled. He's just Dakka's crazy old dude locked in the attic. He's harmless. Mostly."
-TBone the Magnificent 1999-2014, Long Live the King!
 
   
Made in us
Fixture of Dakka






 Frazzled wrote:
 Nostromodamus wrote:
One important thing to note about the ATF letter is that it only applies to braces that do not permanently affix to the firearm.

Friction fit or set screw attachment seems fine, but any kind of red loctite/weld/bolt/whatever that permanently attaches it seems to be a no-no if you want to shoulder the thing.

To be frank, this feels to twitchy to spend money one way or another. While the pragmatic liability is deminimis, the potential liability is higher.

Best to just buy a Venezuelan AK out of the back of a van.


Ideally they would just ditch the NFA altogether and we wouldn't have these ridiculous situations.

"The Omnissiah is my Moderati" 
   
Made in us
5th God of Chaos! (Yea'rly!)




The Great State of Texas

Thats not going to happen however.

Me personally, I see no point to these things and wouldn't take the risk, but your mileage may vary.

-"Wait a minute.....who is that Frazz is talking to in the gallery? Hmmm something is going on here.....Oh.... it seems there is some dispute over video taping of some sort......Frazz is really upset now..........wait a minute......whats he go there.......is it? Can it be?....Frazz has just unleashed his hidden weiner dog from his mini bag, while quoting shakespeares "Let slip the dogs the war!!" GG
-"Don't mind Frazzled. He's just Dakka's crazy old dude locked in the attic. He's harmless. Mostly."
-TBone the Magnificent 1999-2014, Long Live the King!
 
   
Made in us
[DCM]
#morongate







 Frazzled wrote:
Thats not going to happen however.

Me personally, I see no point to these things and wouldn't take the risk, but your mileage may vary.


1.) I'm not so sure anymore, at least for some elements. My gut says suppressors are going to come off it, and relatively soon.

2.) Short ARs are not only fun, but they are super loud (which is important for me).
   
Made in us
Fixture of Dakka




CL VI Store in Braggistan

I've got four rifles with 16 inch barrels (two in 5.56 and one in 7.62/.308 and one in .22lr). I'm not sure I would want shorter. Loss of velocity/accuracy would outweigh the cool factor for me at this point. The 7.62/.308 is REALLY loud as is (and has a very cool fireball of a muzzle flash at dusk!)

I would like to get a suppressor or two without the paperwork/wait/extra cost though.

Every time a terrorist dies a Paratrooper gets his wings. 
   
Made in us
[DCM]
#morongate







There is a marked loss of velocity when you go under 11.5" in 5.56, no question. It's just a fun range toy for me.

My go-to for home defense is actually a shotgun with buckshot.
   
Made in us
The Last Chancer Who Survived




On moon miranda.

Short barrels are rarther situational, they make more sense on things like 7.62x39 or 300 Blackout or PCC's than 5.56 or 308, but if you're not expecting to shoot farther than 100-200m it generally wont be a huge issue either way in terms of hitting targets, and often shorter barrels can be more accurate than longer ones (as they experience less flex while firing, particularly lighter barrels) though obviously dont get the same velocity and range. The big thing is muzzle blast and, with 5.56, the super shorty barrels can lose too much velocity for effective fragmentation. That said, I'm sure as hell gonna SBR my ARX100 (having a barrel you can swap with no tools is just too cool) and still work on the SBR AR project I started some months ago, I've got 4 other 16" barrel 5.56 rifles to play with that will remain so.

I'd be surprised to see anything happen with the NFA at all. I think that the current administration and congress have wasted their thunder on other issues to get something like that through, though I'd like to be wrong on this issue.


IRON WITHIN, IRON WITHOUT.

Heavy Gear Painting Log, Northern Guard, Southern Republican Army, and Terrain
The correct pronunciation is Imperial Guard and Stormtroopers, "Astra Militarum" and "Tempestus Scions" are something you'll find at Hogwarts.  
   
Made in us
5th God of Chaos! (Yea'rly!)




The Great State of Texas

 Ouze wrote:
There is a marked loss of velocity when you go under 11.5" in 5.56, no question. It's just a fun range toy for me.

My go-to for home defense is actually a shotgun with buckshot.


Old School! My wing master is so long I don't have to actually shoot. From the bedroom in the back of the house I smack them at the front door with the barrel 30 yards away.

Plus I can use it to pole vault with and the furniture is so huge I can float down a river on it.

-"Wait a minute.....who is that Frazz is talking to in the gallery? Hmmm something is going on here.....Oh.... it seems there is some dispute over video taping of some sort......Frazz is really upset now..........wait a minute......whats he go there.......is it? Can it be?....Frazz has just unleashed his hidden weiner dog from his mini bag, while quoting shakespeares "Let slip the dogs the war!!" GG
-"Don't mind Frazzled. He's just Dakka's crazy old dude locked in the attic. He's harmless. Mostly."
-TBone the Magnificent 1999-2014, Long Live the King!
 
   
Made in us
Dakka Veteran





 Ouze wrote:
There is a marked loss of velocity when you go under 11.5" in 5.56, no question. It's just a fun range toy for me.

My go-to for home defense is actually a shotgun with buckshot.



The loss of velocity is 300fps between a 16" barrel and a 10.5" barrel in 5.56.

The AR pistol is a nice range toy as well as a great PDW.

Took my wife out shooting last week for our anniversary. She blew through 200rds of 22LR and 300rds LC 5.56. I had her shooting our daughter's Ruger MkII Target as well as a 16" AR rifle and a 10.5" AR pistol.

The 16" rifle is set up with an A2 fh, 12" FF rail, Magpul AFG, Mako BUIS, and a TRU Dot RDS. The 10.5" pistol is set up with a carbine length gas system, a Krinkov flash suppressor can, 11" FF keymod hand guard, maxwell grip, Troy BUIS, Spartan micro laser and Surefire Scout light.

She liked shooting the AR pistol the best. The lighter weight as well as ease in followup shots is what she appreciated.

I built the pistol using the carbine length gas system because the pistol length gas system is so brutal on both the shooter as well as the BCG. I also added the Krinkov can to address 1.) fireball and 2.) muzzle climb and 3.) recoil impulse and 4.) noise.

I had her shooting torso silhouette targets at 50, 75 and 100 yd ranges. The pistol performed flawlessly at all three ranges, as well it should at such close ranges. Its meant as a bedroom gun as well as truck gun. The loss of velocity is a non issue because 1.) range toy, 2.) PDW - use will be well below 300yds.

My go-to home defense weapon is the AR pistol. Or the Mossberg 500, or the 1911, or the Glock 26....If I'm down to the sharp sticks, things are fooked
   
Made in us
5th God of Chaos! (Yea'rly!)




The Great State of Texas



My go-to home defense weapon is the AR pistol. Or the Mossberg 500, or the 1911, or the Glock 26....If I'm down to the sharp sticks, things are fooked


Thats what the full auto wiener dog is for with me. Nothing survives the land piranha!

*pistol / short barrel Mossberg 500 for home offense.
*M1 for crowd control. Get off my lawn!

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2017/04/28 16:00:12


-"Wait a minute.....who is that Frazz is talking to in the gallery? Hmmm something is going on here.....Oh.... it seems there is some dispute over video taping of some sort......Frazz is really upset now..........wait a minute......whats he go there.......is it? Can it be?....Frazz has just unleashed his hidden weiner dog from his mini bag, while quoting shakespeares "Let slip the dogs the war!!" GG
-"Don't mind Frazzled. He's just Dakka's crazy old dude locked in the attic. He's harmless. Mostly."
-TBone the Magnificent 1999-2014, Long Live the King!
 
   
Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut






 Spacemanvic wrote:


My go-to home defense weapon is the AR pistol.


+1. Best combination of reliability, capacity, power, and maneuverability. 11.5" barrel AR pistol actually makes a shorter silhouette when shouldered (for me anyway) than my G19 when properly extended. 590 protrudes almost a foot farther...10x more difficult to maneuver.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2017/04/28 15:59:31


Tier 1 is the new Tactical.

My IDF-Themed Guard Army P&M Blog:

http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/30/355940.page 
   
Made in us
Stabbin' Skarboy




Alaska

If they take suppressors off of the NFA I'll be getting a bunch of them. Noise and blast usually bother me a lot more than kick.

I'll probably get one eventually regardless, but it they're on the NFA it will probably just be one or two that I swap between various firearms and not one for each of my most commonly used firearms. Part of this is me assuming that if they are taken off the NFA the price will go down significantly.

I'm selling the front sight/gas block thingy off my Ruger AR-556 to a guy from another forum. I've got a Faxon barrel that I want to put on my Ruger. I have no idea what I'm doing, but my standard way of learning is to just go for it, break everything and then learn how everything works as I try to fix the mess I've created.

I got a fever, and the only prescription is MOAR DAKKA!  
   
Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut





Denison, Iowa

Sign me up for a suppressor when they become a non NFA item as well.

As Iowa just legalized short barreled shotguns and rifles I'm tempted to get one. I always liked those UZI's with the multi-fold underfolder stocks. I know I'd look like an 80's gangsta, but you can still find parts kits for $150. Hard to complain at that price.
   
Made in us
[DCM]
#morongate







 cuda1179 wrote:
Sign me up for a suppressor when they become a non NFA item as well.

As Iowa just legalized short barreled shotguns and rifles I'm tempted to get one. I always liked those UZI's with the multi-fold underfolder stocks. I know I'd look like an 80's gangsta, but you can still find parts kits for $150. Hard to complain at that price.


Besides, I heard it feels good to be a gangsta.

   
Made in us
Dakka Veteran





 Dakka Flakka Flame wrote:
If they take suppressors off of the NFA I'll be getting a bunch of them. Noise and blast usually bother me a lot more than kick.

I'll probably get one eventually regardless, but it they're on the NFA it will probably just be one or two that I swap between various firearms and not one for each of my most commonly used firearms. Part of this is me assuming that if they are taken off the NFA the price will go down significantly.

I'm selling the front sight/gas block thingy off my Ruger AR-556 to a guy from another forum. I've got a Faxon barrel that I want to put on my Ruger. I have no idea what I'm doing, but my standard way of learning is to just go for it, break everything and then learn how everything works as I try to fix the mess I've created.

Armorers wrench is what you seek, You'll get into all sorts of trouble with one.

Brownells makes a good one:

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/rifle-tools/wrenches/ar-15-armorer-s-wrench-prod80294.aspx



Automatically Appended Next Post:
 Ouze wrote:
 cuda1179 wrote:
Sign me up for a suppressor when they become a non NFA item as well.

As Iowa just legalized short barreled shotguns and rifles I'm tempted to get one. I always liked those UZI's with the multi-fold underfolder stocks. I know I'd look like an 80's gangsta, but you can still find parts kits for $150. Hard to complain at that price.


Besides, I heard it feels good to be a gangsta.



That's what 80% lowers are for playa!

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2017/05/02 01:07:48


 
   
Made in us
Stabbin' Skarboy




Alaska

 Spacemanvic wrote:
Armorers wrench is what you seek, You'll get into all sorts of trouble with one.

Brownells makes a good one:

http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/rifle-tools/wrenches/ar-15-armorer-s-wrench-prod80294.aspx

Cool, I'll have to order one.

I'm going to be forced to go back to blasting at fox with my shotgun while my AR is down.

Hopefully my flock is small enough this year that they won't be as big of a draw to the predators. Also there won't be any goats tearing down my fences, so that's another thing in my favor.

I got a fever, and the only prescription is MOAR DAKKA!  
   
Made in us
Unhealthy Competition With Other Legions





Omaha

 cuda1179 wrote:
Sign me up for a suppressor when they become a non NFA item as well.

As Iowa just legalized short barreled shotguns and rifles I'm tempted to get one. I always liked those UZI's with the multi-fold underfolder stocks. I know I'd look like an 80's gangsta, but you can still find parts kits for $150. Hard to complain at that price.


Do it, I love my SBR Uzi. Buy a Mckay Enterprises fully welded receiver, then you will need a semi auto barrel (they are different than the full autos), semi auto sear, and you will need to have a block welded in front of the selector lever inside the grip stick. Unfortunately that last part is a legal matter and needs to be done per the ATF, even if you are using a semi auto only receiver and the gun physically cant go full auto. If you look hard enough you can find converted semi auto grip sticks around with a semi auto sear and the block already welded in place. another thing to pay attention to is the grip pin... The full autos use a 8mm pin to hold the grip to the receiver, the semi autos grip stick uses a 9mm. My full auto grip stick was messed up so I found a semi auto one and used my friends drill press to fit the 9mm pin, works perfectly.

Building an Uzi is definitely a big project. It took me little over a year to fully finish mine, waiting for parts and what not. In the end it cost me around $1300 for parts, cerakote, and engraving. Still cheaper than what a IMI Uzi goes for, but a lot more than a Vector or who ever else makes Uzi clones. However, most Uzi clones are not reliable so....

"Success is not final, failure is not fatal, it is the courage to continue that counts."

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