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I purchaced this model in 2006, it is the limited edition Captain Sicarius model. I had forgoten about it and it was left in the back of my bitz box for a while . When I found it again I saw it had a broken claw on its left lightening claw(as you can see from first pic). How do you suggest i fix it?

The way I suggest is somewhat time taking, nut I think it'll work best. Cut the claw off, drill a hole in each claw, and pin them together. Then use green stuff to fill in the gap.

Would it work if i just filled the gaps with GreenStuff?

Ive had some luck fixing unpainted metal models with low temperature solder, you just need to be careful you dont melt your model, alternitivly you can use the two part plumbers putty to fix it, it sorta like green stuff but comes in a big plastic tube and in my experiance dries harder.

Those claws are too small to effectively pin.

Greenstuff isn't rigid or adhesive enough. Soldering will most likely melt the claw - it's too small to draw off sufficient heat.

Straighten the claw as best you can, file off any rough burrs around the damage *carefully*.

Get some talcum powder and mix superglue into it to make a paste. Smear this over the damage to fill it. Allow a tiny amount of excess to bulge up. Allow to cure, sand down with 600 grit paper and you should be fine. This dries very hard!

Thanks for your ideas. The solder idea sounds good and it is the only thing I have readily available. So I might try it.

Seriously though and I cant stress this enough, it must be low temperature solder, the lower the melting point you can get the better.

Also a two part epoxy product called JB weld is probably stronger then solder and wont rish you kelting your mini should you mess up.

Unless you are using a temperature controlled soldering station and low-melt solder, any attempt is doomed to fail.

White metal often gives little to no warning that it is about to sublimate. One second it is shiny and hot, the next, a puddle on the table.

I agree with chrome on this, this is not a task for a cheapo sitck or gun soldering iron, the highest melting point solder I would go with is 63/37, which melts at 361 degrees, as opposed to the melting point of white metal which is 450 ish degrees. Unless you have a good quality temperature controlled soldering station do not even try this. Your going to need to hold a temperature of 375 degree without much deviation.

Green stuff in the gap and file it down

Cut it off & replace with a filled-down piece of plastic (either plasticard or even a bit of sprue). Attach with super glue.

Low temp solder, but make sure you HEAT SINK with pliers.

Cut it off!

Do the same on the other hand.

Lightning claws can have only three prongs right?

Yeah but it would look lopsided.

EDIT *And too wolverine-y.*

JB Weld it.. best suggestion I have!

Well I think I am not going to solder it considering I have a really cheap soldering iron. I will either use green stuff or talcum powder and super glue.

Seriously, use the powder and super glue. GS wont hold those together well enough. Might as well do it right the first time. Thats a pretty bad spot to get a break, so your going to have to suck it up, and fix it the long way. Or make a GS mold of the broken part and then fix it with a GS molded part. And any idiot can use a GS mold, hell even I can do that, and I SUCK with GS lol

Apoxie Sculpt works pretty nice. Just wet your fav tool and as will smooth very easily and nicely.

It seems this is getting skipped over, so I'll post it again. JB KWIK or JB WELD. These are two part metal based epoxies. You only need a tiny dab on the affected area. Smooth it out, let it dry, then file it down with your normal metal files. It will be stronger than anything else recommended thus far and if you use JB KWIK, you can be done in half an hour or so.