The Citadel Finecast metal to resin change thread.

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**Little Pete**

Inanimate wrote:
LOL. Their superglue has a particularly acrid smell imo. I use Loctite Superglue (Precision) for metals and Citadels plastic glue for plastics. I have used the Revell Contacta with the metal applicator, but mine got clogged up after a while. Anyone have any tips on how to avoid that?

Guitar strings. I use a bit of leftover high E string (thinnest one) from set of 11s. This works out to a B string (second thinnest) from the more standard set of 9s many people play with. You can probably get a single string of the appropriate size for about £/$ 1-2 from a music store.

I really like finding this out because the needle applicators are great but you need something very thin, an inch or two long and strong to clear out clogged nozzles.

All the best

Pete

**NAVARRO**

Little Pete wrote:
Inanimate wrote:
LOL. Their superglue has a particularly acrid smell imo. I use Loctite Superglue (Precision) for metals and Citadels plastic glue for plastics. I have used the Revell Contacta with the metal applicator, but mine got clogged up after a while. Anyone have any tips on how to avoid that?

Guitar strings. I use a bit of leftover high E string (thinnest one) from set of 11s. This works out to a B string (second thinnest) from the more standard set of 9s many people play with. You can probably get a single string of the appropriate size for about £/$ 1-2 from a music store.

I really like finding this out because the needle applicators are great but you need something very thin, an inch or two long and strong to clear out clogged nozzles.

All the best

Pete

I use a lighter and burn the metal tip.

**Happygrunt**

Oh, just an FYI, DE are getting a Haemonculi model, and it looks identical to the picture in the codex.

**Tyrolean**

Little Pete wrote:
Inanimate wrote:
LOL. Their superglue has a particularly acrid smell imo. I use Loctite Superglue (Precision) for metals and Citadels plastic glue for plastics. I have used the Revell Contacta with the metal applicator, but mine got clogged up after a while. Anyone have any tips on how to avoid that?

Guitar strings. I use a bit of leftover high E string (thinnest one) from set of 11s. This works out to a B string (second thinnest) from the more standard set of 9s many people play with. You can probably get a single string of the appropriate size for about £/$ 1-2 from a music store.

I really like finding this out because the needle applicators are great but you need something very thin, an inch or two long and strong to clear out clogged nozzles.

All the best

Pete

^this. Or if you're very lucky to have a hobby shop that carries music wire, have a hard time cutting through the 2mm stuff even with bolt cutters. Comes in all sizes, marked for metric and imperial

Automatically Appended Next Post:
Excited about the new DE, I'm hoping that the Finecast is more like a plastic as rumored.

As a side note, when I visited my local Hobbytown the GW aisle was crammed with unopened shipping boxes. Has anyone else noticed suspicious stockpiles?

**Inanimate**

Tyrolean wrote:
Little Pete wrote:
Inanimate wrote:
LOL. Their superglue has a particularly acrid smell imo. I use Loctite Superglue (Precision) for metals and Citadels plastic glue for plastics. I have used the Revell Contacta with the metal applicator, but mine got clogged up after a while. Anyone have any tips on how to avoid that?

Guitar strings. I use a bit of leftover high E string (thinnest one) from set of 11s. This works out to a B string (second thinnest) from the more standard set of 9s many people play with. You can probably get a single string of the appropriate size for about £/$ 1-2 from a music store.

I really like finding this out because the needle applicators are great but you need something very thin, an inch or two long and strong to clear out clogged nozzles.

All the best

Pete

^this. Or if you're very lucky to have a hobby shop that carries music wire, have a hard time cutting through the 2mm stuff even with bolt cutters. Comes in all sizes, marked for metric and imperial

Thanks, great tips! I do already have a lot of leftover strings (a lot from .13 sets, but thinner as well). If nothing fits, then burning the glue away sounds fun enough.

**Praxiss**

Inanimate wrote:
Samus_aran115 wrote:Have you been using the brush on stuff, or the old, indiscriminate bottles? I agree that GW has some of the best super glue. It smells much better than some of the other stuff I've used too. That's important, especially when you're standing over it for hours at a time putting a new unit together

LOL. Their superglue has a particularly acrid smell imo. I use Loctite Superglue (Precision) for metals and Citadels plastic glue for plastics. I have used the Revell Contacta with the metal applicator, but mine got clogged up after a while. Anyone have any tips on how to avoid that?

Exactly what i am using. Only switched to the Loctite a few dasy ago but it is VASTLY superior to GW water thin rubbish. i could proably even use it without pinning....if pinning now more of a habit than a requirement.

I am plannign on gettign some of the Revell glue when my current GW plastci glue runs out.

For cleanign out the tube, maybe a long sewing needle/.

**Tyrolean**

Inanimate wrote:
Tyrolean wrote:
Little Pete wrote:
Inanimate wrote:
LOL. Their superglue has a particularly acrid smell imo. I use Loctite Superglue (Precision) for metals and Citadels plastic glue for plastics. I have used the Revell Contacta with the metal applicator, but mine got clogged up after a while. Anyone have any tips on how to avoid that?

Guitar strings. I use a bit of leftover high E string (thinnest one) from set of 11s. This works out to a B string (second thinnest) from the more standard set of 9s many people play with. You can probably get a single string of the appropriate size for about £/$ 1-2 from a music store.

I really like finding this out because the needle applicators are great but you need something very thin, an inch or two long and strong to clear out clogged nozzles.

All the best

Pete

^this. Or if you're very lucky to have a hobby shop that carries music wire, have a hard time cutting through the 2mm stuff even with bolt cutters. Comes in all sizes, marked for metric and imperial

Thanks, great tips! I do already have a lot of leftover strings (a lot from .13 sets, but thinner as well). If nothing fits, then burning the glue away sounds fun enough.

Ya that's what I did at work to get epoxy off spatulas, burn it then scrape with a blade. Sorry for the off topic

**Kroothawk**

It's really hard to break through all this off-topic talk. Here another try, posted on Warseer by Vaiuri:

Apparently the move to resin is actually costing GW MORE than producing in plastic, hence the price rise. Spin, or truth, make of it what you will, but I believe the person who told me this.

Some other bits of info I've gleaned about the resin - some models will be single casts, think the current single metal blisters. Others will be on a sprue, Uruk-hai being the example I was given, these will be on sprues of 4 - again, explaining some of the price hike.

The resin being used is NOTHING like FW resin, no where near as much messing and cleaning up, plus no release agent, so you wont need to give your models a bath before you do anything with them.

The resin being used also reacts with superglue, so when you use the glue on the model it creates a super-strong bond. It also absorbs paint somewhat, meaning no chips - what this means in terms of stripping models I cannot say.

The resin IS supposed to be very robust, and any breakages can be easily fixed via super-glue (creating a super-strong bond as I mentioned earlier).

The models being recast are using the same masters, but the quality of the cast is supposed to be out of this world. I look forward to seeing it with my own eyes.

Expect a GW announcement on Monday.

First pics by The Death Angel over at Warseer:

**Slinky**

Interesting, thanks!

From the Queek pics, does it look like these are new moulds, or the old ones? Not seen metal models in the straight-from-the-mould state...

**combat engineer**

They look to be carbon copies of their metal/ pewter predessors. I don't see any difference, but I am sure someone will correct me.

Mat

**Alpharius**

So, will FW be able to use this clearly superior resin too?

Please?

**Kanluwen**

Alpharius wrote:So, will FW be able to use this clearly superior resin too?

Please?

Dunno. I'd hope so, but I'm not holding my breath for it.

**cygnnus**

Slinky wrote:Interesting, thanks!

From the Queek pics, does it look like these are new moulds, or the old ones? Not seen metal models in the straight-from-the-mould state...

The Queek model, on sprue, doesn't look anything like metal spin-cast molds I've ever seen before. I'm guessing it's a new mold made from the original master.

I'm just curious about this whole "the resin/plastic hybrid material costs GW more" angle... Mantic used what I have to assume is a similar material with some of their kits and the resulting product was much cheaper than the metal originals. Privateer Press went with what I have to assume is a similar material for their starter kits and those come out at about the same price as the old metal ones. So either GW has a more expensive material or else someone's blowing smoke...

Valete,

JohnS

**RiTides**

I dearly, dearly hope this resin is not similar to whatever it is that PP is using on their plastic kits. The only one I have is fennblades, but I highly prefer PP's metal... that material was not good, in my opinion.

I'm actually quite interested in this Finecast move by GW... I know we're all upset about price rises, and the obviously angering move to restrict UK shippers, but the move to resin is the biggest thing that's happened in the hobby in a long time, and I'd like to think that they know what they're doing with it.

Let's wait and see!

**Tyrolean**

It'll be nice to get Eldar HQ's in something that isn't metal but the Avatar still looks like Rosie O'donell. I wish they would have used this opportunity to do some re-sculpts where they were needed most.

**GCMandrake**

Alpharius wrote:So, will FW be able to use this clearly superior resin too?

Please?

Nope. The reason FW's models have better looking detail on them is because their moulds are made of flexible rubber, letting them get away with small undercuts while being able to remove the model from the mould. Occasionally you get FW models with bits of blue rubber stuck in one of those undercuts - if anyone has a FW Ork Warboss on a bike with a odd bump on his left foot, it's because I've got that bit of mould.

This new resin appears to require spin casting rather than FW's gravity feed. So no. It's unlikely FW will switch to this.

**Necros**

I do like the idea of bigger metal models being resin now .. but, based on the pics above the resin versions look just like the metals... I guess some details might end up being more crisp but by the time you prime and paint them, I bet you're really not gonna notice...

**dantay_xv**

Maybe we might finally get some Thunderwolf cavalry, instead of converting the 1 metal beast that they made.

**yakface**

And GW have posted the finecast announcement:

http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/content/blogPost.jsp?aId=16700019a

**Le Grognard**

They mention superior materials, superior detail, but not the superior pricing.

**Swordwind**

yakface wrote:
And GW have posted the finecast announcement:

http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/content/blogPost.jsp?aId=16700019a

Hmm... No mention of prices yet... Is there hope?

Probably not.

Must... Resist... Autarch....

**Alphacerberus**

pretty sure this looks identical to this

i mean where are they getting breathtaking and outstanding and a revelation? there exactly the same except one feels like ive been robbed xD

**Swordwind**

I'm just dreading pinning mine.

**Boomstick**

Im impressed obviously i don’t like price rises but the design cost to do this which can only benefit the hobby as a whole makes it on this occasion more tolerable. I only wish they would come out with statements such as were doing this to make it better but will we will have to rise prices £x more and id would have been happier than just having it sprung on me.

**Slinky**

That's clearly the same Autarch model, aye - looks like they haven't bothered to paint a new one for the box cover?

**Alphacerberus**

Sorry to steal another spot but "I expect a lot of Games Workshop Hobby Centres to look like this"
they want the stores like this? when i believe the 2nd picture could be more accurate on the price changes

**Le Grognard**

From the GW Facebook page thread about the blog announcement, people are asking about pricing:

"For those of you interested in the details, including price, we'll have these online Midnight GMT on Friday, or you can check them out in stores on Saturday."

Yep, doesn't sound good to me, the 'price rise' alarm is going off in my head.

**warspawned**

Apparently the move to resin is actually costing GW MORE than producing in plastic, hence the price rise. Spin, or truth, make of it what you will, but I believe the person who told me this.

I've no doubt it's more expensive than plastic, but it shouldn't be as expensive as metal, unless the price increase is to try & balance the books for their investment, which they shouldn't have made if the money wasn't there in the first place

We'll have to wait & see what the prices are like...any bets?

**curtistandoh**

I am really liking the idea of moving from Metal to Resin but the prices are just holding me back :-|

**Le Grognard**

warspawned wrote:
Apparently the move to resin is actually costing GW MORE than producing in plastic, hence the price rise. Spin, or truth, make of it what you will, but I believe the person who told me this.

I've no doubt it's more expensive than plastic, but it shouldn't be as expensive as metal, unless the price increase is to try & balance the books for their investment, which they shouldn't have made if the money wasn't there in the first place

We'll have to wait & see what the prices are like...any bets?

Gotta be at least 10%, anything less wouldn't be worth it, and anything more would be a mad grab for cash. So I guess they'll prove me wrong and it'll be way above 10%.