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 avantgarde wrote:
I just bought a bunch of Sarissa terrain and was looking for some interior furniture to flesh it out.

I've seen a company that makes resin vending machines, but I can't remember what the name of it was.

Also I'm looking for office furniture, trying to get a cubicle office going.

There's Proxie Models who do vending machines as well as other bits of scatter terrain. http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/60/488639.page And some pictures of them painted here if you scroll down. http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/0/493203.page

I think Paulson Games also do some vending machines too.

Just a quick post to let you guys look at this artist's webpage:

http://www.marc-giai-miniet.com/page23.html

Amazing miniatures that would make any of us glad to play with them.

That's incredible and very inspirarional. Thanks Mathieu!

Dat glass.

I'd suggest checking out Rust Forge, which is co-owned by Dakka's own Shepherd23

He does plastic injected Shipping containers


and 28mm Hesco Barriers/Bastion (Spoilered for big)


Shipping might be an issue for international folks, but I'm not sure, he's fixed the international shipping issue on their site, but idk what shipping appears to be now.

BPLASER has updated their facebook page with galleries of their work, including a painted section with a table from the Blind Pig games club.

Lots of new stuff in there.

linky: https://www.facebook.com/bplaseraustralia

http://www.bplaser.com/

This thread has been really busy! Loads of great stuff.

Just assembled a bunch of SHARK MOUNTED LASERS stuff, about to move on to the MICRO ART STUDIOS and SARISSA PRECISION stuff, so...

Is there a 'definitive' answer to the "How to Paint MDF"?

"Seal" it with a fine coat of hairspray?

"Seal" it with a fine brushed on watered down PVA glue mix?

Or is there simply a primer that will do the job, while not obscuring any of the fine detailing?

Any and all help will greatly appreciated!

I have primed MDF with Army Painter spray primer with no problems.

Never had any problem using either army painter or even GW spray paints to prime mdf with TBH. Two light coats are preferable over one thick coat, that does make a bit of a difference.

From what I can see the definitive answer is that their is no definitive answer. Results seem to vary widely between purchases so I suggest you treat it like any hobby project, how much effort do you want to put in? If you want to get the best consistent results and you're happy to put in the effort then I say lightly seal it with PVA first. It can't hurt, quite a few folk say it helps and you know it won't react funny with paint or anything.

It's like pinning a miniature or washing resin bits, most people say it's worth doing but sometimes we skip it for an easy life. When I don't I normally wish I had done it afterwards.

I just used Vallejo Air primer, two thin coats and you're in business. wood soaks up paint, period.

Yes definitely.. I've heard talk of different quality of MDF, but from my experience there is a definite benefit to doing it.

Anyone know the correct PVA to Water ratio for the brush on mixture?

I found out last week that PVA comes in some very different thicknesses which I had never thought of before. I'd go for a consistency that only just stays where you put it. You don't want pools but you definitely don't want clogs or you'll get a PVA skin. Hope that helps!

In other news! I've updated the OP with all of the links that have been given. Boring and it took for ever but it's worth it in the long run. When I next have time I'll add a catalogue but I might have to do that over a few updates. If you have time, please check that my links work in case there is a mistake somewhere in the list.

Interesting, there isn't a standard for MDF. What one manufacturer calls Mdf may differ significantly from another manufacturer.
The MDF readily available in Australia all comes out of the one factory and is equivalent to the same thickness of pine board. (Or so the manufacturer states).
To paint MDF, I simply undercoat with a cheap grey primer from the local hardware store, for about $2 a 300 gramme spraypack. Then paint it however I want
I have never sealed it with watered down PVA, and I have had some terrain pieces last for almost a decade.

I agree with Heble. No PVA is needed to paint it. I'm not sure why people say that.

I've only used the cheap Krylon primer bought from walmart and it's worked out just fine.

As proof, here is my MAS apartment primed.

No detail was obscured in any way whatsoever, all the laser-etched panel lines stay dark without ink or wash.
Brushing on PVA seems like the LAST thing I'd do, you'd get blobs and runs and thin spots, not to mention the mess it would create.

Hmm, maybe the people that have had problems in the past have had the equivalent of a bad cast on a miniature. If that is the case then you should just prime them and if you have an issue on any of it you're probably entitled to send back the bad boards for a refund. It would probably be easier just to put down a couple more layers of primer in that situation though.

However you do, please post it up in some form. I think this thread could use a final word on the subject.

I found my MAS stuff just seemed to drink white primer - I had to prime either grey or black first, then spray over with white, otherwise the "grain" of the wood just shined straight through the white.

That was just straight Vallejo Air grey primer straight out of the bottle. What kind of white were you using?

I was using some Plastikote white primer - the same stuff I use on pretty much everything these days

Ahh....isn't that for plastic?

 dsteingass wrote:
Ahh....isn't that for plastic?

Works on wood too - plus the black and grey were Plastikote too and they went on fine

Perhaps it just has a less-than opaque characteristic then? Or maybe the pigment soaked into the grain?

Back when I used Armory Primer in rattlecans, I went through a lot of it, and occasionally it seemed like I got a bum batch.

I don't know the reason - I just know the white primer just got soaked up by the MDF and pretty much disapeared, while the grey and black primer went on well.

As I say, I use the white for priming pretty much everything else (models, sand, metal, plastic, wood etc) and have never seen that before.

Since all my buildings are going to end up grey... grey primer it is!

Double safe and sure!

How would Army Painter spray primer work? I've got a can at home and some of the old MAS holo ads I want to prime.

Also, would I need some brush on in the same colour to go over the edges? I've noticed the edges where they're laser cut are burned black.

Paint should cover the laser-scorched edges, paint covers everything. however, I've never used the Army Painter stuff.