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I like it, but it looks a little uniform, needs different shapes. Are you doing corrosion, or that camo pattern as in the FW one? I think your orange is too dark is that was your goal.

jabbakahut wrote:I like it, but it looks a little uniform, needs different shapes. Are you doing corrosion, or that camo pattern as in the FW one? I think your orange is too dark is that was your goal.

There are whitish patches still to be added that should tone down the vividness of the colours. All in the course of due time my dear Sir.

EB


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I just couldn't wait to peel all that masking tape off. I had to see what the damages from over spray were and see how the colours complement each other. Not too bad but a hint of steely blue I think is in order for the carapace and hull. I'm rather pleased with the yellow armor, a few touch ups here and there are needed and that's all. I had to reassemble Lucie to show her at her best; a waste of valuable painting time I know.

Blackadder

Those colors do work well together, some pages ago I think I gave you guff for doing the FW pattern, but it does looking very striking.

You didn't answer my previous query... Do you never use acrylic? Or just through the airbrush you don't?

jabbakahut wrote:Those colors do work well together, some pages ago I think I gave you guff for doing the FW pattern, but it does looking very striking.

You didn't answer my previous query... Do you never use acrylic? Or just through the airbrush you don't?

I don't remember any guff, you just said I could be more original than to copy the FW model. Well I could but my tendency is to follow a strict military motif which would be a basic somber colour or earth tone camouflage neither of which would be very striking on such a flamboyant vehicle. I figured if I didn't like the yellow colour I could always change the armour to a military colour with a minimum of effort. Well I do like the yellow so I'll stick with it for the nonce.

I had some bad experience with acrylic when I used it to paint some vintage 1860 rolling stock for my Civil war HO railroad. even with the airbrush the cover was so poor that to get the right shade coincidentally yellow on the passenger cars I used so many coats the siding detail was obliterated. I resolved then to never use acrylics again unless I was painting a room. Quite possibly acrylics have improved since then but I'll stick with what I know best.

BTW I have the most extensive set of Civil war engines and cars quite possibly in the world including a scratch built conversion of a Mantua 'General' to the original Rogers model as she rolled out of the Paterson Locomotive works in 1855. I'll take a picture of it if you're interested. That also took a long time to built but mainly because the parts were all white metal and brass and soldered together.

Thanks for the response,

EB

OOOOh black adder is a fellow train guy huh I have been on the sp 4449 and have picks hehe

Painted the greaves for a color test, I can't decide of they're too blue.

Blackadder

Go with the blue; it adds a lot of depth to the model. Besides, this modle deserves every bit of attention you can give her!

I like the colors, I would work to remove the poke-a-dot feel though.

The images I have of the FW Warhound show in various lights the carapace and hull painted with the same blue to gray camouflage depending on the lighting. I've toned down the spots but I like the concept except for the side skirts which don't work for me

I will be painting the hull and carapace the same colour and pattern and I'm concerned that it will be too busy or too blue. I looks right in the pictures but as you can guess I hesitate to commit as I only have one shot at getting it right.

The FW samples:


As you can see I'm spot on with the greaves. (Groan),

Blackadder

Spot on, good sir! Pip pip, and Cheerio!

Did you leave it so her legs are posable or did you have to lock them down for stability?

Lookin' awesome!

Looks great, I think painting the grey like that wouldn't look too blue.

Wow, I should look before I leap. I thought the FW style was more like diffused clouds, it actually looks spot on sir!

Wow... *Looks at his own partially finished Scratchbuild*

Mine doesn't even compare. Great Job. I don't think you can actually tell the difference between yours and the Forgeworld one.

That is the most Amazing Scratchbuild I have seen.

Of course everyone does realize the last five images I posted were from the FW catalog.

My posting of this thread was to inspire and demonstrate building techniques not to discourage builders Anthasu1. Not everyone is cursed with my particular brand of manic compulsion for which they should be truly grateful. I look forward to seeing your scratchbuilt posted.

Thanks for the replies,

EB

No you were right Jabba, the FW paintjob on the greaves demonstrate two styles of spotting. I did mine likewise and prefer the mottled style to the spotty style.

BTW I've discovered that this paintjob is actually dedicated to a particular legion, that of the 'War Gryphons'(sic). Not being totally up on the 40K division of command I thought the titans were separate from individual legions and were under the command/control of the Adeptus Mechanicus anyway this is their unit emblem which match the unit colours with the model nicely:


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I would have preferred the model to be independent of any particular unit but I suppose it will have to do.

The rogue Blackadder

looking superb Blackie.

I wouldnt worry about the warhound market. Ebay is a fickle mistress. Last year I got a jackal class for £170 on ebay then the following week managed to get another jack mint untouched for £200 on CDO.

Since then I've seen them on ebay going for above RRP (i'll never figure why FW stuff does that).

If it's put together I can kindof understand it, considering how hard some FW models are to assemble.

I've never bought an assembled FW model off of ebay that didn't have to be taken apart as it is invariably assembled wrong. Each piece then had to be cleaned, flash removed, filled, sanded, shaped, reassembled for proper fit and here's my bugaboo, painted. Of course I only bought derelicts but even well assembled models at first glance have grievous mistakes such as the recent Baneblades sold had some of the treads on backwards. I can only imagine how a tyro model builder could screw up the toes and legs on a Warhound.

Of course I am the anal retentive Blackadder

]Wikipedia states,"The term anal retentive (also anally retentive), commonly abbreviated to anal, is used conversationally to describe a person with such attention to detail that the obsession becomes an annoyance to others, and can be carried out to the detriment of the anal-retentive person. The term derives from Freudian psychoanalysis."

Not to be confused with the term arsehole which may or mayn't apply as well,

EB

What technique did you use to get the mottled effect? I'm assuming it was all done with an airbrush, but I've not got much experience using them for anything other than (badly) base coating models (and anything else in the local vicinity).

MonkeyDispenser wrote:What technique did you use to get the mottled effect? I'm assuming it was all done with an airbrush, but I've not got much experience using them for anything other than (badly) base coating models (and anything else in the local vicinity).

At last a technical question I can handle (I hope). Bear in mind that I am not very proficient at air brushing and anyone who is more savvy in the use of this instrument feel free to amend or refute the following statements.

I used a very cheap gray primer base coat in a generic spray can I bought at Kmart called 'Fresh and Easy' I use this when I am painting lighter colours such as on the greaves, hull and carapace otherwise I use Krylon gray primer for a base on darker colours. I used Krylon white primer for the base coat under the yellow. They are all fast drying and can be painted over in a half hour if you're in a hurry but I wait until the next day as my nerves won't stand me rushing a paint job.

The best technique for spray with an airbrush or can of spray paint is to pass in only one direction starting just before the piece to be painted and holding the spray button until you pass off the piece. Keep the same distance from the piece throughout the pass i.e. don't swoop down in the center of the pass.

Two, three or more light passes is better than one heavy pass unless you like to have your paint sag and run like a tsunami wave which is an interesting effect but usually not for a fine model.

If you hold the sprayer too close to the work you may get a pebbling or orange peel effect and too far will give you a nice dusty appearance which is probably not desirable either.

On the greaves I had some relatively dark blue Model Masters (which I'll refer to as MM subsequently) petroleum flat paint into which I mixed a bit of MM gray and I airbrushed an extremely light coat on the seam and edge areas of the greaves at the smallest orifice I could push a 50/50 mix of paint through.

At this point I should say I have an antiquated Badger 350 airbrush and I used the recently acquired fine tip assembly. I used the medium tip for the yellow and rust colour on the rest of the armour.

The blue didn't completely cover the gray but there was a hint of blue in the center of the panels. I cleaned my airbrush religiously as it clogged frequently and left splatters if I wasn't careful even with mineral spirit thinner. I don't use acrylic paint but I have heard auto windshield washer fluid is the best thinner for water base paint not water and it's a million times cheaper the the commercial thinner.

I next mixed a lot of Testors flat white with the rest of the MM blue/gray mix and added more thinner. I adjusted the 'brush to the very finest setting I could and slightly tapped the button about 3 inches from the panels trying to make sure to keep the 'brush perpendicular to the work. I continued to do this letting the spray to dry (which was almost instantaneous) before I applied anymore paint until the blotches (spots started to merge but you could still see a hint of the base paint between the patches. I refined my technique on the second greave which gave an even better mottling pattern and I'll have to redo the first greave a bit so the match better. I still haven't the guts to attempt the carapace. I'll try that this weekend.

HTH,

The bordering on a nervous breakdown Blackadder

Very nice work.

Hope the carapace turns out as good as the rest.

Looking forward to hearing how you get on.

mmmmm titan ork ones are Sht

Question, does anyone know the Citadel colour represented by the bronzish hue of the legs on the FW Warhound images posted above?

Thx,

Blackadder

I wouldn't suspect that it's necessarily is a GW paint.

Perhaps not but I was under the impression that the FW model builders use FW/GW/Citadel products exclusively to produce the demo models.

nah they dont even use their own weathering powders.

Devlin mud or Ogryn flesh would work over boltgun metal to make it oily.

Looks like Boltgun with some kind of yellowish brown wash.

Your titan looks great....can't wait to see the overall outcome.

You can try by using a combination of Khomando Khaki, Desert Yellow and devlon mud wash and maybe somesort of subtle yellow in between the mixes....that would probably be your best bet on trying to achieve some thing similar. And as the others have said....there is a possibility that they have not used GW citidal paints, so it could be a tad difficult to duplicate it exactly.

Keep up the good work

Imagine building a slaanesh titan..... YES PLEASURE TITAN