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Yes, por que?

whalemusic360 wrote:Yes, por que?

Well it is part of my surprise! I need to know what kind of OHP brand to buy and really where to buy it as well. I will be using it for inkjet style printer. I am very excited to have fun with this so any help would be awesome

Mike

You should be able to get OHP sheets from pretty much any stationary shop.

You then need to make sure your printer settings have been changed to "OHP" or equivalent. Also, make sure you let it dry before you touch it or place anything on it.

To be honest I liked it much more like this:



It was more playable imho and still allowed models to interact with it and move in/about it, etc. which makes it a much more interesting and interactive piece on a table.

The current state makes for a tight piece that models can't be placed in/on easily and hands can't fit inside to move figs about even if you can squeeze a few in. Much more limited appeal imho...

oooh suprises!

Make sure you get the correct paper as well. There is different paper for laser and inkjet printers. Should be able to get it at Staples, Best Buy, Office Depot or Circuit City (lol).

CT Gamer brings up a good point, playability vs beauty?

This is going to be a center piece plaza for the city so I was thinking more beauty then playability , but what say you?

And thanks for all the info on OHP paper!

Lets hear it Pretty or Play?

Mike

I do like it open, but I also like it closed.

As you said in the start, you wanted it to be a playable piece of terrain, so unless it looks super happy fun time excellent, I might be tempted to keep it more open plan.

Personally I think it could look good either way.

If the roof piece is removable, then it works either way. Plus if that ladder is hanging around you've got the roof to play on too, multi level is always more fun

monkeytroll wrote:If the roof piece is removable, then it works either way. Plus if that ladder is hanging around you've got the roof to play on too, multi level is always more fun

I have really thought about magnetizing the roof . The only issue is that the pillars have to be moved pretty close to the center on the piece. The problem is still there, the pillars are to close and would look silly without the roof. I am torn! I like the overall look of both. Well I will have to just keep thinking about it and taking in your feedback.

So keep the comments coming!

Thanks again,
Mike

Can you magnetise the pillars on the bottom as well as the top?

You could but that would be a pain in the ass! Good idea though.

I am indifferent on the matter as I like both set ups a lot!

Is the supprise that you came and stole my Fortress of Redemption, painted it, and put it back?


*looks downstairs*

Darn......

Personally I prefer without... would would make it even nicer in my opinion is if you broke one of the pillars... but if those are the Wilton's cake decorating pillars... they're a pain to break.

netfrost wrote:Personally I prefer without... would would make it even nicer in my opinion is if you broke one of the pillars... but if those are the Wilton's cake decorating pillars... they're a pain to break.

Yes they are a pain I have a way to break them easily though ,but remember they are hollow so you have to fill them back up with sand or kitty litter. You may have noticed that the pillars are already painted and Whalemusic is getting a few I am not using. I have made a plaza before using pillars and two priests for the GW fantasy range. I scrapped it because before I started using movement trays I mounted the terrain on thick beveled plywood. Long story short (too late I know) that is a great idea and you will just have to wait to see the finished product


The finished plaza will be a surprise

Thanks again and keep the ideas flowing they are really helping,
Mike


Automatically Appended Next Post:

whalemusic360 wrote:I am indifferent on the matter as I like both set ups a lot!

Is the supprise that you came and stole my Fortress of Redemption, painted it, and put it back?


*looks downstairs*

Darn......

If you lived closer I would totally paint it for free

Cool.

Well for future consideration, what I tend to do with those pillars, is I break them, then use polyfilla to fill the hole, and sprinkle some fine sand on it... works great to fill it and make it look like broken stone.

Hey mike , i think you could have the best of both worlds , maybe you could place pins in the roof section that insert into the collunms, then you could have stability and remove the top for access, i also realised why the top looks a bit bare, i googled imaged , greek temples and they all have a thicker frontage , and sides ,maybe this would help give it a more balance sense of permenance.

i also think a bit of your lovely rubble would be nice.

http://www.planetware.com/i/photo/mithras-greek-temple-of-garni-armenia-dates-back-to-1st-century-ad-reconstructed-in-1975-arm001.jpg

http://www.google.co.uk/images?q=greek+temple&oe=utf-8&rls=org.mozilla:en-GBfficial&client=firefox-a&um=1&ie=UTF-8&source=og&sa=N&hl=en&tab=wi&biw=1280&bih=883

neil101 wrote:Hey mike , i think you could have the best of both worlds , maybe you could place pins in the roof section that insert into the collunms, then you could have stability and remove the top for access, i also realised why the top looks a bit bare, i googled imaged , greek temples and they all have a thicker frontage , and sides ,maybe this would help give it a more balance sense of permenance.

i also think a bit of your lovely rubble would be nice.

http://www.planetware.com/i/photo/mithras-greek-temple-of-garni-armenia-dates-back-to-1st-century-ad-reconstructed-in-1975-arm001.jpg

http://www.google.co.uk/images?q=greek+temple&oe=utf-8&rls=org.mozilla:en-GBfficial&client=firefox-a&um=1&ie=UTF-8&source=og&sa=N&hl=en&tab=wi&biw=1280&bih=883

Thanks Neil, this is a great reference point Also nice idea about the roof and the pins. You all will just have to wait and see (insert evil laugh)

Mike

The Emperor take your secrets man!

Show us the goods!

I'm sure the OHP printing has nothing to do with stained glass. So I've got no theories really.

SilverMK2 wrote:The Emperor take your secrets man!

Show us the goods!

Don't want you guys to think it is that big of a surprise. Since I can't figure out which mock up I like better I am just going to sit down and build this damn thing. Once I am done you all can pass the final judgment

Mike

Sweet

I do need help with something though! What variant should I use for the baneblade kit? I am thinking Stormlord

Thanks for all the comments and support,

Mike

Magnets are your friend

SilverMK2 wrote:Magnets are your friend

I am not skilled enough for magnets so out of the kits what do you think?

Personally I love the Vulcan mega blaster, so I would go with the storm lord.

For the close quarters of a city fight it also makes sense as an infantry support vehicle. Also transports lots of soldiers safely through the streets.

Big fan of the stormsword me.

S10
AP1
10" blast
No cover

Yes please! (although only 36" range)

The choice is dependent on what you want to do with it. The Shadowsword is a long range superheavy killer while the Stormlord is a troop transport/support.

I've always thought the Vulcan mega bolters looked cool.

Well, In my opinion, I'd just go for either a modular design, or have a shadowsword, just for those occasions when I'm facing up a titan. Have some nearby lascannon squads to bring down the fields then boom! Volcano shot right to its solar plexis. No idea if I spelled that right, I just know what and where that is from Tae Kwon Do, which never have a written element. Alternatively, said shadowsword will, in my head, be made to be more of a modular conversion on my baneblade...

Do what you think be, but always remember the ease of modulity.

Thanks again guys! Looks like it is going to be a Stormlord cuz I think it looks the neatest


Mike