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I grabbed this one

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6325862

they print up very nicely

Hate to ask here, but i've been struggling trying to figure this out on my own - how do you paint Raven Guard in this scale and make them look... good?

I don't want to just hit everything with a black contrast paint and call it a day, I really want to go for a more black and white high contrast color scheme (see images below for my inspiration), thing is I can't figure out how to paint something like that in this scale quickly or efficiently and still make it look good. Most (all) my experience in this scale is with historicals which mostly get painted in drabs and earth-tones and are much more forgiving to mistakes than what I'm trying to acccomplish here.




Hoping one of you more experienced and skilled painters could give me some advice on how to do something like this in simple straightforward steps that can be replicated by an at-best average to maybe ever so slightly above average painter - I have multiple airbrushes if that helps any.

I'm just at a complete loss as to how to proceed, from what color or type of primer I should use (I'm pretty sure "slapchop" and zenithal basecoats are pretty much useless at this scale so I'll probably skip that to save a step). Was thinking of using white scar from a rattle can as its a nice crisp bright white, but I'm concerned that at this scale the primer will obscure detail, so I think I may have to go for a white airbrush primer coat - maybe proacryl titanium white? To me, white seems like the better choice of primer coat for a scheme like this, as its easier to paint that down to black than to paint black up to white.

But then I dont know how to proceed from there... contrast paints? Apothecary White? Black Templar or Black Legion? Do I do an edge highlight? Can I cheat it with drybrushing? What color.

Argh.

could probably do "ok" by painting white, well painting light grey and drybrushing white over the whole then, then a thinned coat of black legion, and probably another - this to get a smooth highlight showing through and good application

black templar may work but its better for painting a deep blue/grey than black

then I've found a light, and very light, drybrush in necron compound or some other silver gives a slight weathered highlight

trick is prtobably find some 3d printed cheap models, or ebay rescue stuff to practice on (or sacrifice a Leman Russ or something for the cause, can always clean and repaint to try it

for infantry likely something similar would work depending how much you want white. Black legion covers and applies pretty nicely

Is that not just something simple like black with a single dark grey highlight (storm vermin maybe?) and then Corax shaded with administratum grey and a white scar highlight?

The nice raven freehand and transfers then set it off nicely.

I've no idea, I know how I'd do it at 28mm, but it would be laborious and time intensive to do it at LI scale.

chaos0xomega wrote:
Hate to ask here, but i've been struggling trying to figure this out on my own - how do you paint Raven Guard in this scale and make them look... good?

But then I dont know how to proceed from there... contrast paints? Apothecary White? Black Templar or Black Legion? Do I do an edge highlight? Can I cheat it with drybrushing? What color.

Why is drybrushing cheating? It's the perfect technique for this scale. I would drybrush the black base coat (lightly) with a mixture of black and bone. Only hit the raised detail - don't let the flat areas become grey or streaked. Then go back and block in the main panels with black to give it more depth. Add any decals at this stage. Then do another light drybrush with just bone. This will give you a slightly weathered look, rather than the unnatural edged look that GW utilise. You can add rust streaks etc as you like.

tneva82 wrote:

AllSeeingSkink wrote:

tneva82 wrote:

AllSeeingSkink wrote:

The starter would have been better value if they'd dropped the Warhounds and beefed up the armour squadrons to give you full boxes worth of Predators, Leman Russes, etc instead of half boxes.

Also it wouldn't have killed them to throw in a sprue of terrain or some such.

And then people would complain price of starter too big for tempting people to start.

I'd propose they throw it in for the same price
.

So let's see. You say they should simultaneously keep the prices, add the models and dont' change discount %...

How on earth you suggest GW does ALL THREE AT ONCE?

Any proposal that doesn't meet all 3 is dead on water.

Well, yeah, you might have missed the rest of my post where I pointed out the LI box only offers about 25% discount on buying the plastic separately compared to 50-55% discount for 40k and AOS boxed sets, so it's hardly out of place to think they could have offered a deeper discount.

Of course, it sold out anyway, but selling out doesn't equate to "good value", something can be terrible value and still sell out.

I noticed while looking at the savings for starter boxes, GW's "specialist" games tend to offer less of a discount than their main games (AoS and 40k), BUT, most of the specialist games are much smaller investment than AoS and 40k, so having a smaller discount isn't as much of a turn off. In that sense, LI is more like AoS or 40k than it is like Necromunda, Blood Bowl, Aeronautica, AT and whatnot due to needing several $50 boxes to make an army versus only needing 1 to 3 boxes for those other games.


Automatically Appended Next Post:

chaos0xomega wrote:
I'm just at a complete loss as to how to proceed, from what color or type of primer I should use (I'm pretty sure "slapchop" and zenithal basecoats are pretty much useless at this scale so I'll probably skip that to save a step).

Slapchop works fine at this scale, a lot of Epic models you see around will simply be zenithal prime followed by an ink/contrast/speedpaint/whatever.

But in terms of those models, they don't look anything special, I think you can figure out how they were painted by just zooming in a bit.

What I'm trying to figure out is how to paint black at this scale in a way that still looks good, pops a bit more than if it were 28mm scale, but doesn't take an eternity to paint. That Thunderhawk looks to be a black grey with black crevices and mid grey edge highlighting, which looks okay but screw edge highlighting 8mm models. The tank looks similar but rather than purely edge highlighted they also stippled the grey on the edges to make it look more worn and less clean.

A Black/white segmented scheme huh? I'd make the first basecoats with masking (either masking tape or masking putty cut to shape with a ruler) and two rattlecans or with an airbrush. Due to the small scale, I'd mask the areas before priming with either color, in order to prevent paint layer buildup (you can start with the off white and mask it more loosely, then apply the black with a more tightly defined mask that slightly overlaps the white).

You will probably want an off-white and an off-black for the base colours, and a light grey and a black wash (enamel, acrylic or oil, up to you)

If going with rattlecans, I'd use "fine" primers made specifically for modelling or fine art instead of generic hardware store brands, just to be ensure thin coats. Amsterdam acrylic sprays have nice tones for example:
https://www.amsterdam-acrylics.com/en/acrylic-colors/spray-paint/?productCode=1716P (Oxide Black & either of the Titanium buffs might work well)

Another good off white would be Tamiya Racing White:
https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/spray-ts-plastics/ts-7-racing-white/100ml-spray-can/

small controlled bursts from side to side like Linc does it

I don't think you need to be super careful with spraying LI models, I've rattle canned my 3D printed IG tanks that have finer details than the LI models and they still look fine.

Some of them I intentionally give a heavy coat to try and hide 3D printer lines.

Just build up in a few layers instead of trying to do it all in 1 heavy coat.

drbored wrote:
Price is subjective. If you have lots of disposable income, 200 bucks for a starter set is not much.

If you're a broke college student working min wage at a restaurant, 200 bucks is a month's worth of pay and that's only if you eat ramen for the latter half.

Cries of "it's too expensive" fall on deaf ears to those with means, and rally those without, and do little else. It's up to each individual. Ultimately, if you don't like the price or can't afford it, don't buy it. GW aint forcing anything on you.

Can't afford a BMW? Guess you'll have to get a different sort of car. Screeching "BMW is too expensive!!" does nothing for the conversation.

Either way, GW sold out of their allocations in most places, and likely will continue to do so, so cries of "The starter set is too expensive!" could really not be more useless. Who are you trying to convince? The people that were grown adults and spent the 200-ish dollars regardless? I just do not understand where the conversation goes from here.

Peak rich people are the only ones that matter rhetoric.


Hi, I'm rich. GW products are still too expensive even if I can fairly easily afford them.

I mean a community where the only people who can afford to play are rich people is gonna suck considering how much the rich huff their own farts.

AllSeeingSkink wrote:
I don't think you need to be super careful with spraying LI models, I've rattle canned my 3D printed IG tanks that have finer details than the LI models and they still look fine.

Some of them I intentionally give a heavy coat to try and hide 3D printer lines.

Just build up in a few layers instead of trying to do it all in 1 heavy coat.

Depends on the primer. Chaos black remains a gold standard of priming rarely ever mussing up details. But colored primers can be a bit thick, so you gotta be careful at this scale.

Obviously it's not too expensive though seeing how GW literally can't keep up with demand...

Supply&demand says actually opposite. Prices are too low.

But that's why you aren't running multi billion company and are just random forum complainer

Remember rule one hey Tneva? We are all on the same side here, with our love for Epic minis, there is no need to resort to name-calling.

The product selling out doesn't necessarily indicate the price is OK - you could say this game has had so much coverage and discussion/publicity that it is selling out despite the starter pack not being as good a deal as 40k/AoS equivalents. I think there have been so many YouTube channels really getting excited by the new format, that will really help.

On a side note I reckon the Kratos were removed to help cover the cost of the recall, which would explain the old contents photo, things moving around in the box too much and breaking, and the fact it is slightly less of a good deal /tinfoil hat

I think the box was decent value for people who want to field both SA & Marines, and dont have a problem blowing their Titan allocation to 2 Warhounds. To a player who want Astartes only, and only considers Reavers or bigger for their Titans, notsomuch.

I probably would have went for the box if I could have been sure I could resell the SA & Warhounds at no loss, but since that seemed uncertain, I skipped it. Well that and my dislike for physical Rulebooks made the choice easy

I dont think being poor shuts you out from playing LI. The rules can be REDACTED quite easily and the models can be 3D printed. You either have money or free time for getting by on the lowlow, usually not both

 Pacific wrote:
Remember rule one hey Tneva? We are all on the same side here, with our love for Epic minis, there is no need to resort to name-calling.
...
On a side note I reckon the Kratos were removed to help cover the cost of the recall, which would explain the old contents photo, things moving around in the box too much and breaking, and the fact it is slightly less of a good deal /tinfoil hat

If that were the case then they'd have needed to reprint the boxes too, which didn't happen. More likely the Kratos was originally planned to be part of the starter then removed before it initially went into production, and they accidently used an old promotonal image that was created to be on the back of the box.

Also, where is the name calling?

 Pacific wrote:


On a side note I reckon the Kratos were removed to help cover the cost of the recall, which would explain the old contents photo, things moving around in the box too much and breaking, and the fact it is slightly less of a good deal /tinfoil hat

Not sure if you're serious, but that would imply that the box was also reprinted, which we have enough evidence to indicate was not the case. Also, we know that the influencers were asked to send back their books, not their boxes - when they eventually released the preview videos after the embargo lifted, all of them had the same exact product that we have, there was no indication that they had been sent replacement boxes that would have removed the Kratos from the back of the box, etc.

It seems more likely the Kratos was par of the internal prototype product and was removed from the contents prior to the product going to production.

tneva82 wrote:
Obviously it's not too expensive though seeing how GW literally can't keep up with demand...

Supply&demand says actually opposite. Prices are too low.

But that's why you aren't running multi billion company and are just random forum complainer

I'm sure Apple reached the same conclusion, yes.

I think we saw the core box before the delay anyway, unless my memory is playing tricks on me.

Vorian wrote:
I think we saw the core box before the delay anyway, unless my memory is playing tricks on me.

We did, and the Kratos were'nt there originally. They were only on the preorder first pic, IIRC.

Vorian wrote:
I think we saw the core box before the delay anyway, unless my memory is playing tricks on me.

We did.

Kratos was never in corebox. Corebox was also never changed. Only thing that was changed was rulebook was printed and content of book was also unchanged. Slight alteration to cover and that's it.

If kratos was there box would been about 25-30e higher.

 Snord wrote:

chaos0xomega wrote:
Hate to ask here, but i've been struggling trying to figure this out on my own - how do you paint Raven Guard in this scale and make them look... good?

But then I dont know how to proceed from there... contrast paints? Apothecary White? Black Templar or Black Legion? Do I do an edge highlight? Can I cheat it with drybrushing? What color.

Why is drybrushing cheating? It's the perfect technique for this scale. I would drybrush the black base coat (lightly) with a mixture of black and bone. Only hit the raised detail - don't let the flat areas become grey or streaked. Then go back and block in the main panels with black to give it more depth. Add any decals at this stage. Then do another light drybrush with just bone. This will give you a slightly weathered look, rather than the unnatural edged look that GW utilise. You can add rust streaks etc as you like.

Didn't say it was cheating. In American vernacular to say that you will "cheat it" in this manner means that you are using a process or technique, etc. that isn't quite intended or ideal for the purpose you are using it for but will produce serviceable results. In this case, drybrushing is not specifically an edge highlighting technique, but can be used to achieve an edge highlighting if you are careful in your execution.

I'm not sure that it is a "perfect" technique at this scale though. I can get very good results doing what you suggested at 28mm, I think doing so at 8mm may be more challenging, especially if I'm trying to reproduce a similar scheme with the infantry.

AllSeeingSkink wrote:


Automatically Appended Next Post:

chaos0xomega wrote:
I'm just at a complete loss as to how to proceed, from what color or type of primer I should use (I'm pretty sure "slapchop" and zenithal basecoats are pretty much useless at this scale so I'll probably skip that to save a step).

Slapchop works fine at this scale, a lot of Epic models you see around will simply be zenithal prime followed by an ink/contrast/speedpaint/whatever.

I would think a zenithal coat would ovewhelm the minis at this scale - again, mostly thinking in terms of the effect on the infantry here, but even the smaller vehicles don't have enough meat there for a zenithal coat to be anything more than a second basecoat over the majority of the mini. The depth of the panel reliefs on the minis is too low to produce meaningful levels of shading, etc. and theres not enough shape to most of the minis to have areas that will remain shaded out.

I also don't think slapchop works fine at any scale, its not a technique I care for. Zenithal process is great with layering and blending and traditional paint methods. My experience with it with contrast/one-thick-coat paints is that it ruins the flow of your paint (which is an obvious outcome - GW didn't spend so much time developing specialty primers to improve the effects of contrast paint for no reason) and increases the splotchiness and graininess of your finish, as well as washing out your colors. While it gives you good tabletop ready results with a relatively minimal amount of effort, you can skip slapchop and use other techniques to get much better results for little if any more effort, i.e. it sits on the wrong side of the cost/benefit curve or whatever for me. Basically, I've never seen a slapchop mini that makes me think "oh, I really like this, I want to imitate it". I'm sure it has its place, but I don't think small scale miniatures like LI is it. That inherent splotchy graininess at a small scale just serves to disrupt the lines of the sculpt and obscure the details further. Also, from looking around online at other peoples painted LI minis, I think bright, saturated, vibrant colors that pop are key to having an army that will look good on the table (hence why I don't want to go with the more traditional "all-black" raven guard look).

But in terms of those models, they don't look anything special, I think you can figure out how they were painted by just zooming in a bit.

Yeah, I can figure out how these minis were done no problem, and I'm decent enough at painting that I could probably reproduce it fairly closely, its just that it would take me forever to paint an army at this scale doing that, so I'm looking for advice to get comparable results for minimal effort. In my experience, I am a very slow and inefficient painter. What others can accomplish in a couple hours will take me days or weeks to achieve. So I'm looking for some of that wisdom to try to make it easier for myself so I can actually paint all the minis that I will need to paint.

What I'm trying to figure out is how to paint black at this scale in a way that still looks good, pops a bit more than if it were 28mm scale, but doesn't take an eternity to paint. That Thunderhawk looks to be a black grey with black crevices and mid grey edge highlighting, which looks okay but screw edge highlighting 8mm models. The tank looks similar but rather than purely edge highlighted they also stippled the grey on the edges to make it look more worn and less clean.

Yep, blacks seem to be a challenge at this scale. Its already kind of true at 28mm but might be more true at this scale - the best way to paint black is to not use the color black. I've seen a few photos of folks that used 3:1 black contrast (not sure if black templar or black legion) to contrast medium over what seems to usually be either white scar or grey seer that got some pretty good results. I worry though that approach won't work as well with astartes vehicles owing to their flat boxiness. The raised flat panels might require an additional coat of non-contrast paint to block in the area away from the edges, etc.


Automatically Appended Next Post:

 tauist wrote:
A Black/white segmented scheme huh? I'd make the first basecoats with masking (either masking tape or masking putty cut to shape with a ruler) and two rattlecans or with an airbrush. Due to the small scale, I'd mask the areas before priming with either color, in order to prevent paint layer buildup (you can start with the off white and mask it more loosely, then apply the black with a more tightly defined mask that slightly overlaps the white).

You will probably want an off-white and an off-black for the base colours, and a light grey and a black wash (enamel, acrylic or oil, up to you)

If going with rattlecans, I'd use "fine" primers made specifically for modelling or fine art instead of generic hardware store brands, just to be ensure thin coats. Amsterdam acrylic sprays have nice tones for example:
https://www.amsterdam-acrylics.com/en/acrylic-colors/spray-paint/?productCode=1716P (Oxide Black & either of the Titanium buffs might work well)

Another good off white would be Tamiya Racing White:
https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/spray-ts-plastics/ts-7-racing-white/100ml-spray-can/

small controlled bursts from side to side like Linc does it

Masking goes without saying. I'm hesitant to go with rattle cans but I guess i can experiment with it a bit.

For my Dark Angels?

The infantry seem too wee and perhaps too delicate for my style of dry brush. So I’m instead going to try a grey base/undercoat, Contrast Black. Then do the right shoulder pad in a dark red, with silvery bits for weapons.

tneva82 wrote:
Obviously it's not too expensive though seeing how GW literally can't keep up with demand...

Supply&demand says actually opposite. Prices are too low.

But that's why you aren't running multi billion company and are just random forum complainer

Being "not good value" and "selling out" aren't mutually exclusive ideas. Like, remember when toilet paper had supply issues during covid? It wasn't because toilet paper was suddenly great value

But I don't expect you to know because you're just a random forum white knight

GW have priced out a bunch of people on LI, and a more attractive starter would have gone a ways to draw those people in. Yes, it sold out anyway and obviously pricing a few people out doesn't matter on launch if it sells out on the first day.... but it'll restock, and the success of the game will be down to how many there are to keep playing and keep buying it the on the restock or in however many months when the launch hype has worn off.

 xttz wrote:

 Pacific wrote:
Remember rule one hey Tneva? We are all on the same side here, with our love for Epic minis, there is no need to resort to name-calling.
...
On a side note I reckon the Kratos were removed to help cover the cost of the recall, which would explain the old contents photo, things moving around in the box too much and breaking, and the fact it is slightly less of a good deal /tinfoil hat

If that were the case then they'd have needed to reprint the boxes too, which didn't happen. More likely the Kratos was originally planned to be part of the starter then removed before it initially went into production, and they accidently used an old promotonal image that was created to be on the back of the box.

Also, where is the name calling?

Just calling one of the main contributors to the community here a random forum complainer. And no attempt at an apology afterwards, and so the comment was intended.

AllSeeingSkink wrote:

tneva82 wrote:
Obviously it's not too expensive though seeing how GW literally can't keep up with demand...

Supply&demand says actually opposite. Prices are too low.

But that's why you aren't running multi billion company and are just random forum complainer

Being "not good value" and "selling out" aren't mutually exclusive ideas. Like, remember when toilet paper had supply issues during covid? It wasn't because toilet paper was suddenly great value

Drawing a direct comparison between necessities and optional hobby products isn't the slam dunk response you think it is.

 Mad Doc Grotsnik wrote:
For my Dark Angels?

The infantry seem too wee and perhaps too delicate for my style of dry brush. So I’m instead going to try a grey base/undercoat, Contrast Black. Then do the right shoulder pad in a dark red, with silvery bits for weapons.

I definitely think black is one of the hardest colours to get right at this scale, for the infantry especially so they don't look like tiny little ninjas.. a lot of the detail gets lost with that colour.

I'd be tempted to go a bit off-piste and use more of the accompanying colour in whichever legion - more white for raven guard, more silver or silver/blue for iron hands and more red for Dark Angels - it might not be codex-approved, but you want to be able to see the little guys.

chaos0xomega wrote:

AllSeeingSkink wrote:


Automatically Appended Next Post:

chaos0xomega wrote:
I'm just at a complete loss as to how to proceed, from what color or type of primer I should use (I'm pretty sure "slapchop" and zenithal basecoats are pretty much useless at this scale so I'll probably skip that to save a step).

Slapchop works fine at this scale, a lot of Epic models you see around will simply be zenithal prime followed by an ink/contrast/speedpaint/whatever.

I would think a zenithal coat would ovewhelm the minis at this scale - again, mostly thinking in terms of the effect on the infantry here, but even the smaller vehicles don't have enough meat there for a zenithal coat to be anything more than a second basecoat over the majority of the mini. The depth of the panel reliefs on the minis is too low to produce meaningful levels of shading, etc. and theres not enough shape to most of the minis to have areas that will remain shaded out.

Zenithal just gives some gradient. The panel lines will be darker, the undersides of things will be darker, so when you apply something like an ink there'll be more contrast to it.

The depth of the panel lines is not too small to not produce meaningful levels of shading, a light zenithal will definitely leave the panel lines a bit darker, which will help especially with more vibrant models like Imperial Fist, Blood Angels, etc. Doesn't make a big difference on something like Ultramarines, but it still makes enough difference to be worthwhile and it's what I used on my 3D printed Ultramarines.

I also don't think slapchop works fine at any scale, its not a technique I care for. Zenithal process is great with layering and blending and traditional paint methods.

If you want to layer and blend LI miniatures, more power to you, but when I have 200 tiny dudes that need to look good on a tabletop rather than looking good zoomed in so that an 8mm stands 100mm tall on my computer screen... I ain't blending a damned thing on LI models

But even if you want to do a bit of blending on larger models, you can do that with inks or contrasts, apply one layer and then the 2nd layer sweep it to the part of the model you want to be darker. I tried that on some of my Aeronautica models, though admittedly only a couple (like my Eavy Bommer) because they're primarily gaming pieces and couldn't be bothered spending too much time on them.

That inherent splotchy graininess at a small scale just serves to disrupt the lines of the sculpt and obscure the details further.

Nah, that's not the way it works, splotchiness is less prevalent the smaller the details are. These dudes were all zenithal -> contrast -> drybrush and for any distance relevant to wargaming they don't look splotchy to me.



Those Ultras are 8mm scale, these Fists are actually 12mm scale and painted with a speed paint over a zenithal and I think they look fine...



If they look splotchy to you, okay I guess, we all have different standards, but I'm painting my models to look good as an army on the table top, and I'd have to zoom in to much bigger than the models appear in my hand before I see anything that bothers me on either the 8mm Ultras or the 12mm fists.

Also, from looking around online at other peoples painted LI minis, I think bright, saturated, vibrant colors that pop are key to having an army that will look good on the table (hence why I don't want to go with the more traditional "all-black" raven guard look).

I'd agree with poppy models looking good at this scale, that doesn't really preclude the use of contrasts.

I don't think I'd use black contrast at this scale though (except for small details like weapons) as it just doesn't quite look right to me. When I get some free time off work I'm going to try some black schemes where I use grey washes or pigments to make the crevices lighter than the rest of the panel and see if that's a bit punchier at this scale.

For white though, a recipe I liked for my White Scars was to prime white (not zenithal) and then wash with a warmish grey wash/ink/contrast, then drybrush with white again. Fast and pops well for a white. Perhaps for Ravens I'd use a cold grey rather than a warm grey though.

But do whatever you want, if you don't like contrasts you don't have to use them, I just think they save a lot of time at this scale and don't have nearly as many headaches and pitfalls as they do at bigger scales.

AllSeeingSkink wrote:

Well, yeah, you might have missed the rest of my post where I pointed out the LI box only offers about 25% discount on buying the plastic separately compared to 50-55% discount for 40k and AOS boxed sets, so it's hardly out of place to think they could have offered a deeper discount.

Of course, it sold out anyway, but selling out doesn't equate to "good value", something can be terrible value and still sell out.

I noticed while looking at the savings for starter boxes, GW's "specialist" games tend to offer less of a discount than their main games (AoS and 40k), BUT, most of the specialist games are much smaller investment than AoS and 40k, so having a smaller discount isn't as much of a turn off. In that sense, LI is more like AoS or 40k than it is like Necromunda, Blood Bowl, Aeronautica, AT and whatnot due to needing several $50 boxes to make an army versus only needing 1 to 3 boxes for those other games..

Like I said months ago...I think the game is squarely aimed at vets with plenty of disposable income. Basically Heresy heads and those with nostalgia for the early days of Epic. Interesting that AT seems so much more affordable, but it is what it is.


Regarding the RG painting question, I'd definitely look at Contrast paints or similar products. Pick up some cheap 3D prints somewhere and experiment until you find a process you like.

 xttz wrote:

AllSeeingSkink wrote:

tneva82 wrote:
Obviously it's not too expensive though seeing how GW literally can't keep up with demand...

Supply&demand says actually opposite. Prices are too low.

But that's why you aren't running multi billion company and are just random forum complainer

Being "not good value" and "selling out" aren't mutually exclusive ideas. Like, remember when toilet paper had supply issues during covid? It wasn't because toilet paper was suddenly great value

Drawing a direct comparison between necessities and optional hobby products isn't the slam dunk response you think it is.

If you say so, I wasn't really thinking "slam dunk" when I typed it I was just hoping tneva would be able to figure out that selling out in a moment of panic/hype/low supply/high demand doesn't equate to good value.

I can't really be bothered coming up with more relevant wargaming examples other than like I already pointed out the LI starter only gives about 25% more plastic than buying separately versus the AoS and 40k sets that give 50+% more plastic, and I don't think too many people are extolling the value of LI's individual kits.

If the game sold out because they perfectly matched the number of copies to the number of rabid fans with enough spare money to burn, I don't really see that as a great outcome in the long run. Maybe I'm wrong, maybe LI will restock and be a raging success.

AllSeeingSkink wrote:

 xttz wrote:

AllSeeingSkink wrote:

tneva82 wrote:
Obviously it's not too expensive though seeing how GW literally can't keep up with demand...

Supply&demand says actually opposite. Prices are too low.

But that's why you aren't running multi billion company and are just random forum complainer

Being "not good value" and "selling out" aren't mutually exclusive ideas. Like, remember when toilet paper had supply issues during covid? It wasn't because toilet paper was suddenly great value

Drawing a direct comparison between necessities and optional hobby products isn't the slam dunk response you think it is.

If you say so, I wasn't really thinking "slam dunk" when I typed it I was just hoping tneva would be able to figure out that selling out in a moment of panic/hype/low supply/high demand doesn't equate to good value.

I can't really be bothered coming up with more relevant wargaming examples other than like I already pointed out the LI starter only gives about 25% more plastic than buying separately versus the AoS and 40k sets that give 50+% more plastic, and I don't think too many people are extolling the value of LI's individual kits.

If the game sold out because they perfectly matched the number of copies to the number of rabid fans with enough spare money to burn, I don't really see that as a great outcome in the long run. Maybe I'm wrong, maybe LI will restock and be a raging success.

160e worth of marines&sa. Then warhound and rulebook. If you think warhound and rulebook cost only 51e combined...

Discount is totally normal for gw starters so anything added would add price to the box. Simple as that.

The important thing in AllSeeingSkink’s piccie?



The squad markings atop the Rhino.

Not only is this useful for the player, but in-universe serves as a simple visual reference guide for Titans and Aircraft crew to know exactly what friendly assets are where at a glance.