Hi there - I am attempting to put together an article on using oil paints on wargaming models. Oil paints have been used by model makers to give very realistic results for years but for some reason the practice has been ignored for the most part by wargamers.
What I am looking for from you (the general dakka public) are links to any threads/websites you know of with good quality information on using oil paints for model related projects. I am also looking for any tips and tricks you may have picked up through your own use of oil paints, as well as links/pictures/videos of your own work with oils (such as
nuclealosaur's excellent Grey Knights where he used oil paints to wash and glaze the models, or
Les's video tutorial on using oil paints to wet blend thunder hammers).
I will be updating this thread as required and when there is enough information, I will create an article.
Why would I use oil paints?
Oil paints are great for representing dirt, grime, oils, slime etc. The very nature of the paint is such that it mimics these effects very well. Oil paints are also easier to blend as they have a much longer drying time than acrylics (paints such as those produced by
GW), meaning you can produce much smoother colour gradients much more easily. Oil paints can also give you extremely clear colours; for example, white oil paint is extremely bright compared to most acrylic whites and so is excellent for use where whites need to almost "glow" (such as in power weapon effects).
On the use of oil paints
Oil paints must be thinned prior to use - they come in the form of very thick "toothpaste" consistency. Generally turpentine or turpentine substitute can be used (both of which can be purchased relatively cheaply from any good hardware/DIY store). The problem comes in that the thinners for oil paints WILL EAT YOUR ACRYLIC PAINT IF
IT IS NOT PROTECTED.
Varnishes must therefore be applied to any model BEFORE and AFTER the application of oil based paints. When selecting a suitable varnish, it is important to remember that gloss varnishes will tend to cause the oil paints to run more easily into crevices and corners, whilst matt varnish allows the oil paint to adhere more readily to larger, flat surfaces [2].
Also note that you may require special or different brushes to use with oil based paints, and you should certainly try to have a set of brushes just for use with oils (as oil and acrylic paints don't play well together and any oil residue on the brush will mess up your acrylic paints). You can also use natural bristle brushes with oil paints (which you CANNOT do for acrylics, as they damage the natural bristle brushes).
Oil paint techniques
Oil paint washes [6] [LINK
TO OIL WASHING EXAMPLE]
Washes are relatively straight forward to create. Simply add a small quantity (generally a pea sized blob will be sufficient for a single model) of oil paint to a palette (an actual artists palette, a gloss wall tile, piece of flat plastic, etc). Then, using a pipette, add 5-10 drops of thinning agent (turpentine, white spirit, etc). Using a tooth pick gently mix the thinner and oil paint together. Once well mixed, it is advised to use a brush to continue mixing the wash to ensure that there are no lumps of oil paint left in the mixture.
Test the washes thickness by drawing the brush up the side of the palette well. Add more thinner as required.
Uses of oil paint washes
Oil washes and pigment powders
Optional steps include the addition of pigment powders (weathering powders) to the wash which will give extra colour and texture to the wash when it dries. Rust pigment is excellent when combined with burnt umber to give very good rust effects. Various earth powders can also be used with brown/tan oils to replicate dust, while black pigment can be combined with black oil paint to replicate soot and other smoky deposits. [1] [5]
Random rust spackles [5]
Random rust spackles are simplicity itself to create using pigment loaded oil washes. Create your rust mixture (for example burnt umber, rust pigment and white spirit), load a brush with the mixture and flick the bristles so that paint randomly splatters the model. Plain thinner is then airbrushed onto the rust spots to "diffuse" the speckles. If an airbrush is not available, you may be able to replicate the effect by "painting on" a layer of thinner prior to spackling the model, though this may have to be done on small sections at a time as thinner evaporates quickly. Alternately, thinner can be applied after spackling using a brush loaded with plain thinner, touched directly to each spackle.
This technique can also be used to create random dirt/any other colour/material spackle you care to create.
Rust/dirt runs [1] [5]
Dots of oil rust wash are applied to rivets, plate edges etc (anywhere that you want rust to run from). The "Oil Softening" technique (below) is then used to create rust "runs" by allowing the thinner to partially evaporate before gently "pulling" the oil paint in the desired direction. This technique can take time to complete satisfactorily, so do not attempt to add oil paint to all the rivets on a vehicle before you begin softening - experiment to find a pace that works for you.
Alternately, you can apply un-thinned oil paint to the rivets and then use a brush loaded with thinner to create the streaks. [2]
If using in conjunction with the rust spackling technique, it is best to use this technique second, unless you varnish the model between methods.
"Heat" weathering
Oil paint washes are also exceptionally good at creating "heat weathering" on metal components such as exhaust pipes/gun barrels/etc. Using layers of wash from yellow through red to purple (with purple being used on the point closest to the heat source), it is possible to easily create the subtle colour graduation required for this effect to look convincing.
Softening oil paint washes [5]
Oil paints can be softened, or blended even after the thinner has dried. After the application of an oil wash, allow it several minutes for the thinner to dry before taking a clean, soft, dry brush and using it to feather the oil layer to create a smoother, softer interface.
This technique can be used to replicate rust/dirt runs from rivets/etc down the side of vehicles. Apply a dot of the wash to the rivet and allow the thinner to partially evaporate before gently "pulling" the oil paint in the desired direction. This technique can take time to complete satisfactorily, so do not attempt to add oil paint to all the rivets on a vehicle before you begin softening - experiment to find a pace that works for you.
Wet Blending using oil paints
Les' wet blending video
Wet blending with oil based paints is similar to wet blending with acrylics, however, due to the long dry time of oil based paints it is a lot easier to wet blend using oils.
Your oil paint brushes
Types of brush [4]
Flat: This brush has a clean, straight edge for applying color evenly to an area.
Bright: A bright is similar to a flat, but it has shorter bristles and makes a distinct calligraphic mark.
Round: Used for drawing and any type of line.
Filbert: Filberts are almond-shaped brushes that make an oval shaped mark; they are a cross between a round and a flat brush.
Fan: Used for blending and textures.
Cleaning oil brushes[3]
1. Wipe off any excess paint using a cloth or soft tissue. Gently squeezing the bristles from the ferrule edge outwards with your fingers, or with a cloth, will help remove paint from the brush. But be careful to avoid pulling on the bristles.
2. Rinse the brush in turpentine or oil if you've been using oils or lukewarm water if you've been using a water-based medium. Never use hot water as it can expand the ferrule, causing the hairs to fall out.
3. Wipe it on the cloth again to remove the last of the excess paint.
4. Wash gently using a little bit of mild soap (or a gentle dishwashing liquid). Dab the brush gently onto the piece of soap, then work up a lather in a small container (or the palm of your hand if you're not using any toxic pigments or solvents).
5. Rinse and repeat until there's no trace of any color coming out. Over time a brush may become stained, but don't stop rinsing until you're sure there's no paint left.
6. Rinse once more in clean, lukewarm water to remove any traces of soap. Shake off the water.
7. Use your fingers to gently shape the brush head into its correct shape.
8. If necessary, wrap the bristles in a piece of tissue or toilet paper while the brush is still wet. When the paper dries it'll contract, pulling the bristles into shape.
9. Leave brush to dry at room temperature. Ensure it's not resting on its head as it will then dry misshapen. Standing it on the back of the handle works well.
10. If you're worried about the toxicity of the paint you're working with, wear gloves while painting and cleaning your brushes. Also if you find the paint is drying out and cracking, or staining your skin.
General tips for brush care[3]
1. Always use separate brushes for oil painting and water-based medium. After all, oil repels water. Also use separate brushes for varnish, gesso, and masking fluid.
2. Don't let acrylic paint dry on a brush as its water-resistant when dry. But also never leave a brush standing in water.
3. Never use a lot of pressure to force paint out of a brush. Be patient and rinse it several times.
4. If your brush is made from natural bristle, you can soften it by dipping it in clean oil (the one you use as a medium) after you have cleaned it.
5. Misshapen synthetic brushes can sometimes be reshaped by soaking them in hot water (not boiling).
Oil paint brands
Mig Productions 502 Abteilung Model Oil Colour Range
Van Gogh oil colours - "I have found these to be a reasonable oil paint range and they are available reasonably cheap from most art supply stores" [1]
Windsor and Newton - "I've found it to be a little too grainy when applying to large surfaces" [2]
Windsor Newton "Water Soluable Oils" - They have a compound in them that lets them mix with water, but they will also still mix with Turpentine too. "These could be awesome as the clean up is sooooo much easier." [7]
Paint brush brands
Painting DVDs/videos
Matthiew Fontaine Miniature Mentor - has some oil painting tutorials.
CMONs GMM studios - covering airbrushing, weathering (sponge, mask and oil) and more.
Youtube oil weathering videos
Thinner types/brands
White Spirit
Turpentine
Varnish brands
Matt
Daler Rowney soluble matt varnish - can be thinned and applied with an airbrush [5]
Gloss
Johnson's Klear - A water based floor varnish - can be used as traditional gloss varnish or added to acrylic paints to alter performance and properties and used as setting agent for applying decals [5]
General tips and tricks
Drying time - Oil paints take a lot longer to dry than acrylics. This means you may need to leave your work overnight to dry before you can seal it, or work on the next level of detailing.
Burnt Umber - This colour is extremely useful in creating washes to replicate grime, rust and dirt [1]
Contributors
[1]
SilverMK2
[2]
nuclealosaur
[3]
http://painting.about.com/cs/paintingknowhow/ht/Howto_Brushcare.htm
[4]
http://www.dummies.com/how-to/content/choosing-brushes-for-oil-painting.html
[5] Imperial Armour Model Masterclass Vol 1
[6]
Redfinger
[7]
MajorTom11
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Oil Washing Example
Example of oil washing provided by
Redfinger
At this point the model received another clear coat to provide a solid surface for the oil blending to take place on. Typically it is best to oil blend on a flat surface, that is what creates the really soft blends. I use Windsor Newton Artists Colors, specifically Burnt Umber was used for the shading on the skin.
This is where I left off on it tonight, I need to let this layer fully dry a day or two before I take the shades darker and bring out some of the highlights in green. The thing to remember when working with oils, is that a little goes a loooong way, it is nothing like working w/ acrylics, it takes a soft touch and smooth application.
So the major differences between these pictures and the last ones is the further shading and blending with oil paints, and the painting of the armor plates. After the initial blending had dried I clear coated them and hit the shadows again with the burnt umber mixed with a little black, then brought the highlights out by mixing a little green white and black, that made a real difference and to me helped me achieve the subtle green/gray tones I was looking for. I finally settled on a blue for the armor plates. To achieve the look I did the following;
All armor plates were first painted with "Vallejo Black Red" this provided a solid rust colored foundation
Then I coated each plate w/ crackle medium
Then a layer of Vallejo Pale Gray Blue was brushed on, followed by a Prussian Blue wash.
The metal bits were painted black, then stippled with Tin Bitz, Shinning Gold, and Bolt Gun, then washed w/ Badab Black
At this point the whole armor plate was washed w/ badab balck.
After that layer dried I went back in with the Burnt Umber
Raw Umber and some reds and oranges and made the rust streaking.
- but it does mean you don't have to worry about conflicting mediums!
Imperial Knights: The Avengers Initiative
Da Dark Angelz
Arakasi vs Infinity
), but maybe one day I will add some kind of comparison