the end product totally doesn´t give away how you made it...excellent method...something i really need to do on my own too...! nothing sad about this tut at all...
but the side comment...i hope you feel better soon...try to catch a sun beam! it really helps...!

as for your other works...unparalleled...absolutely brilliant work!

Loving what you’ve be coming up with recently Cam, you have certainly been very productive, looking forward to more

Incredible Cam that support is really quite amazing.

I really envy your ability to sculpt a head just like that.

Thank you all for your support and kind words.

Productivity is a bit slow at the moment, hope to get a boost soon.

What have I been doing well knocked these up...

Going to cast them and use as Imperial wall panelling, though I think I might have my scales off, these are 100mm x 60mm.

And a walk way...


And a corner capping, this again will be molded and cast...


Talking of casting got this lot done before Red went and made me rethink a bit...

No worries though.

Been working on the GUO a bit too, but not sure, might show some progress tomorrow to see what you think...

Thanks for looking in, and always please feel free to comment and critique, it is how we grow.

Are these rivets made from finger nails art beads? And if so, what size? Walls look super, I am currently hot on your trail with stuff like this but a more wooden approach tho...hopefully I can show off some of my work tonight...

I wish I had the balls to cast, the possibilities are endless then...*sigh*


Automatically Appended Next Post:
The corner looks beautiful, but the pic is craps...better pics please...

Thanks Vik,

No it is that nail paint I was on about a while ago. Keep trying it out. Will get you better pics later.

Just thought I would drop this off, a quick how to....

The professional way to pin a joint...
Spoilered for the sensitive....


More proper stuff later.

Y'know Cam, I would have time to make plenty of updates, except that I end up spending it all trying to keep with your prolific output.

You can always repurpose the skull festooned bits for something else.

Painting a few layers of clear gloss over the eyes of that eagle head will give it a nice realistic effect.

Hmmm, looks like those bolts in your femur are lacking nuts. They'll eventually work lose.


The corner capping looks aces. Easiest way to track scale is use an engineer's ruler, the 1:50 scale side.

 Viktor von Domm wrote:
...try to catch a sun beam!

In Scotland, during the winter? Vik, you are too cruel. But good advice to get outside for a bit. Fresh air does a body good.

Cruelness...? Well, we still don't know his current available movement options...might be even a wheely...

That really looks like you are screwed...er...too soon..?

I meant acrylic beads those Chinese nail art studios girls glue to to way too ugly chicks finger nails... got me a zillion of these in different sizes sir to from China...on plastic I dare say there is nothing better for rivets...the shape is excellent...

Didn't mean any puffy paint, but beads...

Well...

Also, since you grow malt and stuff in Scotland you need sun light... even on that poor island there is some odd sunshine to be caught...how on earth would they be able to make scotch otherwise? I am dreading now the answer...

Yeah, I was referring to the lack of sunlight in Scotland during the winter, not mobility. Days are very short thereabouts, as you know. (apparently 9.5 hours right now).
Your Summer days are crazy long. I don't see how you Northern Europeans stand it. ~16-17 hours of daylight? Madness.

Cam, have you ever used something like these, especially the 1mm version, to make rivets? https://www.amazon.com/IRISFLY-10pcs-Leather-Hollow-Gasket/dp/B01L9CTMWE/ref=sr_1_5?rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1518282584&sr=8-5&keywords=hollow+punch&refinements=p_76%3A2661625011 I'm debating whether to get some and try 'em out. Eventually.

Edit to add the word summer. Mondays are crazy long too, sometimes

red, i know that dave used these occasionally and good ones might be a reall help...

i got cheap ones and i have to say...i hate them...for rivets i can´t recommend them at all... either the material gets not cut the way you want it...inconsistent cuts...and then the act of hammering each rivet...well, for me all that loud noise...i react very uneasy to these loud noises even tho i produce them (is that understandable?)...i flinch each time...

what i would suggest, provided you work with plastic card and plastic glue:

https://www.ebay.de/itm/Nail-Art-Halbperlen-Acryl-50-Stuck-2-mm-Weis-Perlen-weiss-Schmucksteine/181270388519?hash=item2a348e9f27:gLAAAOxy4t1SleJs


these are very cool microbeads from acrylic...and bond like a charm...easy application...

i have somewhere a really good provider...but forgot the link...the above is just to show what i am bragging about^^

Too many updates Cam, I cant keep up! Everything is looking solid as does your hip. Hope you are feeling better.

Ja, Ich verstehe dich. Loud noises make me a bit psychotic. I avoid movie theaters these days. Too loud. I have excellent ear protection though as so hammering away won't be a problem for me.

I have a pillow full of beads like that. Hmm....

Is that hip joint not magnetised???

Your production line is incredible - remind us (me) what you use to cast your creations? Did you have a tutorial somewhere as well?

Thank you all.

@ Red and Vik, I am with Vik, I have tried them and they are just not that good , very similar results to the leather punch pliers you get, not clean enough, noisy and not efficient enough. Best method for bulk rivets I have found is my silly pressed recessed rivets with nail punches or possibly a soldering iron. But if you want a surface mounted rivet, Viks little "beads" are brilliant. Lastly I would say that my favourite method, is not efficient or easy, but I simply really enjoy it, styrene rod, cut into tiny pieces and using a pin, place them on glue, after they are placed a "flash" over with a blow torch and the ends round off. This whole process is true riveteer zen, it will take you a whole evening to do a tank, you settle down with a glass, and some good music and you are rewarded with pure tranquillity and a wonderful model. So in answer Red, I would not bother bud.

@ Ruglud, Think I will do a proper bit on it, still people a bit afraid of it, and it simply is not that hard. Will look into it today sir.

OK, so, update of sorts...

For Vik, better shots, this is a cast in plaster of the corner...




Walk way, the texture is from jointing "tape" for plaster board, couple quid for a roll at builders merchants, it is self adhesive though I have used a contact glue to stick it down.


Yes a bit more done on the GUO, scale shot first...


This is sculpted from a tin foil "armature" a lot of hot glue, and that super clay stuff, it is a bit fragile I will say at mo, but hope to cure that...and yes I am a weirdo cus I paint and model and sculpt all at the same time....


Thoughts as always are welcome, thank you so much for your support.

That GUO is very good Cam. Love the expression on his face and the marks on his chest looks like healing from having his chest "cracked open" (as in, by a surgeon... or perhaps an axe).

Oooh gross and awesome all at the same time!

Good work all round.

Nice organic look to your sculpting. Does the job.

Loving the set Cam, hopefully the hip doesn't hurt too much.

Thanks Cam, Vik. I'll try the microbeads when I get around to rivetting again. I have an idea for some old tank hulls that I have lying around. Something for the future though, when I can 'hobby' again with any sort of regularity. I've use the polystrene rod technique before. Ugh.

I've thought about using that joint tape before. Not just for walkway texture but as fencing and in windows. Never got around to using it that way. I have used for actual drywall work though.

Good progress on the Big Guy.

Love your corner piece!

In our Late July/August here in Indiana, we have about 16 hours of daylight a day. But winter.....dark, grey skies, cold, wet. Dark all the time

Sounds like an Illinois winter. Dave, longest day is the Summer Solstice in June. Usually. Here https://www.timeanddate.com/sun/usa/indianapolis?month=6&year= From what I see, it is ~15 hours in Indianapolis.

But you Hoosiers don't do the Daylight Savings time, so maybe that's the thing? And do have grey skies instead of gray skies? Well, Governor Pence instead of Governor Penny, so... (Sorry, I do like the language/spelling humo[u]r. I'll show myself out.)

I was amazed to see how close to the Arctic circle Scotland is.

Cam, MDF is the devil. Shun it. Never praise it.

The joint tape, never used it that way. As fencing, grating and window dressing, oh and as actual joint tape. ( I do hate drywall work though.) What sort did you use/ It looks like the thin nylon stuff.

That GUO is coming along nicely... looks good and disgusting!

Thank you all.

Had a funny kinda couple of days, hope to snap out of it.

@ Red, yup, it is a thin nylon grid pattern. Quite strong, the glue on it is not that great, and now you have said it going to have a go at using it on some acetate, for windows.

Being quite far up, but not all the way, we have a fun time with the daylight. In the peak of summer it is sometimes only really dark for about 3-4 hours, and in the dead of winter we can be down to 7-8 hours of daylight, it is typically British, not extreme, but different, I come from the south, and it is a marked difference up here. The other thing is (again a British thing) the local population is tiny really, Britain is what 60 million now, Scotland is only about 6 million of that and 5 million of that live in the "Central Belt" of Edinburgh and Glasgow, you get up here and there is nobody about. Thus in my previous job doing 450 miles a day travelling between 4 or 5 police stations. Or my current job delivering groceries "locally" and my average run is 150 miles, sometimes do two runs a day. The point there is no light pollution, you get outside of town and it is black at night, real dark, not that moonlight night or any of that, just bloody black. See lots of stars though. If we ever get a clear night.

OK modelling.
Thought about making an Article for this, and started getting a head ache reading the tutorial for making an article, so it will live here for now. Maybe I will dedicate a day to Indexing my OP for this blog.

Molding and casting.

I have talked about it before, and many others are much better than me at it, but in typical Cam ham fisted fashion, I have a "method" that suits me.

Materials.

I use various types:
For molds I use Plastacine, Bluestuff, Silicone and a silly reusable seaweed thing, even hotglue. It depends on what I am casting.
Plastacine is a quick and dirty mold material. I will cover it below, but it is great for a quick one off item.
Bluestuff, or Instant mold sticks, dozens of videos and tutorials out there, can get it from Greenstuffworld, Simply put it into some hot water, and once it softens up, press it onto the item you want to mold, let it cool and you have a semi-rigid mold.
Composi Mold, Seaweed algea thingy....here is a link...http://composimoldstore.com/all-products/composimold-original/ bought it a while ago, you heat it in the microwave for a few seconds and it is pourable, sets just like silicone, can be reused over and over, great for detail, but has it's limits. Biggest is that it is hot when you pour, which means you have to be careful what your original and mold box are made of.
Silicone, the best and by far the favourite. See below, but basically, it is the proper way to do this.

For casting I use Milliput/GS, Dental Plaster, resin, or Sculpy.

Epoxy putty, (Milliput/GS) mix it force it into your mold wait for it to cure, easy. But slow, and expensive. Also requires quite a firm mold, so really only any good with the Bluestuff.
Oven Drying Clay, (Sculpy or Fimo) can be used, but can be difficult, and you have to fire it to malke it hard.
Dental Plaster, just brilliant stuff, fast cheap and cheerful. Also dirty (get dust every where) and brittle., it is quite durable and there are tricks to be added, but generally if you drop it it is lost forever. Link...https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Crystacal-R-Hard-White-High-Strength-Casting-Plaster-1kg/320974018802?epid=1465596656&hash=item4abb8ad8f2:g:XTUAAOSwgyxWXXuA You can get different casting plasters, but I use this stuff as it is extra hard, and fast setting.
Resin, simply the best. Hard wearing, fast setting, durable, takes paint, glues easy.

For resin and silicone I have tried many different ones and I have no doubt that many can suggest better products but I get mine from https://www.dwrplastics.com/home
I get this resin....http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Low-Odour-Fast-Cast-Polyurethane-Liquid-Plastic-Casting-Resin-2kg-1-852-Litres/272684915961?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
Biggest advantages no smell, very fast setting time. I find it is pretty good at picking up detail, most of the time.
And I get this silicone....http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/High-Quality-RTV-Silicone-Moulding-Rubber-2-06kg-kit-Shore-A28-Fast-Curing/272583709635?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

Again, fast setting time and no odour, excellent at details and long lasting molds.

Extras:
Scales, you cannot eyeball it all, most of it I do, but the silicone you definitely need scales for.
Mold release. I use cooking oil or Vaseline or Baby Talc. oil is good, but can obscure detail, vaseline is good, you need to brush it on. Talc is the best, it really helps the flow of plaster or resin in a mold.
Mixing equipement, either disposable (i.e. cups and wooden stirrers) or dedicated spatulas and bowls.

And now the biggest and most important part.....the original parts. Please do not use this to knock out a hundred Space marines, it is not cost effective, it is illegal, and it is simply stupid. Casting is not difficult and can be very effective. I use it for mass production of parts I need for me. Occasionally I will give away some of my casts, but I do not sell them. If you want any, just contact me and I will happily help you out, I have made molds before and sent them to friends (who then don't actually use them, but that is beside the point) I do make things with various parts and bits from all over, including things like a press mold of the aquila off a helmet or gun, adding detail to a model, but I feel it is pushing it to mold whole models. We need to support GW and all those other wonderful manufacturers out there, this is a wonderful hobby and I honestly do not believe it to be expensive. If I was a drinker, or smoked it would cost me more, my kids definitely spend more on the XBox and PS4 than I do, and I have more than I can ever make, and am fairly prolific. So yeah, OK, put an aquila on the side of your scratch built gun, add a vent to a tank hull, that is no worries in my book. Sculpt an original, and then make a hundred, and give them to your mates, or even sell them on the internet. I know that OMN used to do parts, not sure if he still does, and DrH, has a small side line of wonderful items for sale, I have bought many. I would not dream of casting their products, that would be truly despicable.


Gees long yak so far, OK

Plastacine molding....

Get an original part....in this case I carved a quick wheel from epvc board. Get a lump of plastacine, soften it by heating it in your hands. Press the original into the plastacine.

Carefully remove the original.

Pour in your chosen casting material, in this case Plaster.

Carefully remove the cast once set.

Now a few points. you will most likely destort the orignal mold a little with each cast, and it takes a bit of care to remove the items without damaging the mold, but you can always just remold the original each time if it bothers you.
In this case I have a wheel for use as basing, if I wanted to make wheels for vehicle, I would probably cast them in resin, and if I needed more than 4 I would make a silicone mold.


I am not going to cover all the methods here today, but will cover any you wish if requested, however I will now go through the Cam "datul do!" method, for silicone molds and casting.

Take your original and place it on some card..

You will note I have drawn around the part giving a gap of about 5-10mm all the way around, and I make sure that the flaps will give me a deep enough pool. Then cut and score the cardboard...

I use the "shiny" side of the card on the inside of the mold, that way the silicone has less to cling to. Next you hot glue the original in place and hot glue up all the corners, make sure to seal the whole corner..

Before you make your silicone, I cover the interior of the mold in vaseline, you could use oil, but not talc. This will help the silicone to release the original.
Mix your silicone following the instructions and pour it over the part make sure to cover the part with at least a few mm of silicone, now tap the mold, to knock out some of the bubbles. This is something I do not tend to suffer with, but there are some that are bothered.
Once it is cured, in the case of my choice of silicone, about 2-4hours, separate the original and after applying some talc to the interior of the mold, pour in your material, in this case Plaster.

Once that has cured remove your nice new part...


Last bit on casting is, always have something on hand to cast extra, you will always mess up the quantity required. If you are short, just quickly mix up some more and add it. If you have too much, have something on hand to cast spare...

Bulkhead lights!



Now with the dental plaster and most of the plasters I think, they do not fully cure for about 24 hours, so if you try and glue them or anything they tends to be a bit funny until tomorrow. However, I often will start painting my plaster casts nearly straight away..

No Primer...
Burnt Sienna...

Drybrush of metallic, and added some mucky paint. ( Note, the paint was mostly removed with a cotton bud and some water deliberately to look messy.)

Stipple on some Ryza Rust...

Then sponge on some "paint", to look worn...

Angrax ES..

Not tooo bad.


OK that is covering the easy one part drop mold type, it is really not very difficult to make 2 part molds for more complex parts, but this method is easy, and also, if worst comes, you can always make two half casts, and stick them together afterwards.

Really hope that helps some of you, and really hope you will have a go. It really opens up many opportunities. Any questions please ask, and of course you can always make comment or critique, and add to the descussion. I do recommend looking at other peoples efforts, I am lazy and rough and in the end I am happy with what I make, I do not mind cleaning it up a bit, or a bit of damage here and there, all adds character, but there are many who can call themselves pro's (OMN, DrH etc.) who I hope will add to this, and you should check them out.


Wow that was a biggy, thanks for looking, hope I did not scare you off.

Thanks for putting this up. If I were a better scratch builder I would have to give this a try. Which means I need to start practicing my scratchbuilding.

Your work is top quality and your amount of work is eye watering.

Out of professional interest (my trade was all about casting) how do you overcome air bubbles when you cast, in particular, resin?

Do you use vacuum chamber or an additive in the resin? Or since you generally do open pour moulds you live with the bubbles on the back face?

This is really excellent mate, and your weathering continues to inspire. I know what you mean about funny few days, we seem to be getting lost in our own heads. Geeklife helps though. Best, bro.

Excellent tutorial. I shall be studying this in detail this weekend and maybe even put in an order or two on ebay. You da boss

Excellent tutorials Cam, being more of a painter than scratch builder I really appreciated your painting tutorial on the rusted door. Thanks!

Living in the middle of the East Coast Megapolis, I've forgotten what the night sky looks like without light pollution :(

Have you ever tried the home-brew dental plaster, 1 part Portland Cement to 4 Parts Plaster of Paris? I keep meaning to try it, but RL keeps getting in the way.

A very useful set of tips etc. Perhaps mention something about the off-gassing some of the resins can produce? Do make an article from it. Remember, the articles can be edited too, to keep things up to date.

Thank you all.

I ain't no scratch builder either guys, you just got to have a go.

@ Archer, Thanks bud, I do have issues at times with air bubbles, I tend to "high pour" most liquids, that is to pour it from a height and slowly giving it a thin stream and the air comes out ok, most of the time, as you say, I use one piece casts, and the back may get a bit bubbly but it does not really mater. Certainly nothing as fancy as a vacudooom chambler.

@ Red, I have heard of it, but have not bothered. I know for a silly large project it might work out on the price, but to be honest the value I am getting I am happy with. One big advantage over most is the setting and demold times. Only have to wait 15 minutes and I have a piece.

Talking of molds and waiting about.... here is what I did while a bit bored today, this is that base I had that tyre on....






Also while waiting for stuff got a pill box (got a few kicking about at mo.)...

Few added bits of card...

Primed with gesso, then burnt sienna and a drybrush of leadbelcher.

Coat after coat of paint building it up...


And scratching it off....

Signage...

Scuffed up and final shot...


Oh and I did a little work on that plynth once I had a few wall bits....


Thanks for looking folks, thoughts as always welcome....

No big deal, just making an amazing perfect rusty crate...

 Camkierhi wrote:
Thank you all.

I ain't no scratch builder either guys, you just got to have a go.

@ Archer, Thanks bud, I do have issues at times with air bubbles, I tend to "high pour" most liquids, that is to pour it from a height and slowly giving it a thin stream and the air comes out ok, most of the time, as you say, I use one piece casts, and the back may get a bit bubbly but it does not really mater. Certainly nothing as fancy as a vacudooom chambler.

@ Red, I have heard of it, but have not bothered. I know for a silly large project it might work out on the price, but to be honest the value I am getting I am happy with. One big advantage over most is the setting and demold times. Only have to wait 15 minutes and I have a piece.

Talking of molds and waiting about.... here is what I did while a bit bored today, this is that base I had that tyre on....






Also while waiting for stuff got a pill box (got a few kicking about at mo.)...

Few added bits of card...

Primed with gesso, then burnt sienna and a drybrush of leadbelcher.

Coat after coat of paint building it up...


And scratching it off....

Signage...

Scuffed up and final shot...


Oh and I did a little work on that plynth once I had a few wall bits....


Thanks for looking folks, thoughts as always welcome....

Repost for page turn.

Thank graven. Hehe

He has hobby adhd and he's even finishing his projects....seems unfair to me...arghh...man, you're so look productive...your boss probably had to hire four guys to cope with now that you're recovering at home...

Thanks for he tutorial Cam, it was an interesting read and is making me tempted to branch out in my mold making and casting.
Stuff you've been making looks great as always, with the huge amounts of stuff you do, it made me laugh when you called yourself lazy.

Great googly moogly, Cam! So prolific, much scratch building, wow.

Reading back a few posts -- hope you're feeling and doing better.

Keep up the good work, sir!

...but there are many who can call themselves pro's (...DrH etc.) ...

*quickly finds a drink to swig and then spit out in a surprised way*
I wouldn't call myself a "pro" when it comes to casting.
I've dabbled, and I've read a lot about it. I know the in's and the out's.
When it comes to casting I tend to err of the side of over-preparation. I don't open a bottle until I know exactly what I'm going to do and have every possible tool available to hand.
I'm not casual enough about it to be a "pro".

But having been called out twice in the same post, and the aforementioned research into the subject, I can add some thoughts.

... but in typical Cam ham fisted fashion, I have a "method" that suits me.

Everyone has their own way. So long as it works, it works. Can't say more than that.

...Bluestuff, or Instant mold sticks...

Or look for Oyumaru. It's the same stuff as Instant mold, direct from China (where it's made) and therefore cheaper. Have I told you how much I love Oyumaru...?!
Great for making a quick mould of small/medium sized things. You can cut it or stick bits together for smaller/larger moulds. Picks up really fine details. Reuse it as many times as you like: I bought a 12 pack and have only used 4 ot 5 of them, over and over again. Fantastic for putty casts. Can also be used for plaster etc. but large quantities of plaster or resin may not be good for the mould as those get warm/hot upon curing and can soften the Oyumaru and therefore the mould (may be fine for one cast, but you'll have to re-mould if you want multiples).

I typically use milliput with the Oyumaru (have I told you how much I love this stuff?). Milliput is often softer than green stuff and so is easier to press into the details. Once cured (which does take a long time, relatively) it's rock hard.
I've also used dental plaster. Is ok and cheap. Look for dental stone if you want harder-wearing casts.
Adding PVA to the water when you mix plaster can give slightly more sturdy results, but they are still not going to be bouncing when you drop them.

For resin and silicone, I've only used a couple of offerings from Smooth-On. I get it from Bentley Advanced Materials (although I can never stop thinking about cars) here in the UK.
Not the cheapest option, but good quality from what I've seen, and helpful as a company if you have questions.

I will advise doing a lot of background research about resin and silicone casting before jumping in. You need to be aware of timings for mixing, pouring and de-moulding (waiting), there are many options available for these and all have their pros and cons.

If you are intending on doing a lot of casts (in the 20+ region) I'd give the silicone moulds a chance to "rest" between pours if you are using a quick cure resin. It will "burn" the mould and wear it out prematurely. This is due to the chemical action of the resin, not the heat as you may think.

A note of bubbles.
The resins and silicone I've used above are sold as not needing de-gassing (the process of using either a vacuum or pressure chamber to remove gasses from the material or minimise bubbles in the mould).
Silicone is advised to be poured slowly at a height that will produce a thin stream that doesn't hold bubbles. However, you will still get some in the mould. Tapping is a good way to get it away from your casting surface.
Also pour into the lowest part of your mould-box and allow it to creep naturally over the rest of the master. This helps it get into all the details.
I've not had any major problems when it comes to making the moulds.

Resin. If you are using open-backed moulds like Cam' has shown, just tapping should be enough. The back side of casts like this should be expected to be hidden in some way.

Mould design:
When it comes to 2-part moulds, for things that don't have a large surface you can hide and/or need details on both sides; planning your mould layout becomes important.
The orientation of the item is vital when it comes to where the resin will enter and where it can exit, and anywhere that air can be trapped.
The have to visualise how the shape will fill with fluid to find where air can be trapped and either change the orientation or add channels for air to escape. These can be added after the mould is made by cutting into the silicone, but it's better to have these pre-prepared.

I gravitated towards using syringes to add my resin to my moulds as I was mostly casting small / thin items that gravity just couldn't force the resin into quick enough. My moulds were designed to accommodate this with certain channels.

I won't go into it any more here, but you can find my musings and experiments into moulding and casting in my blogs. Feel free to ask me questions about anything you find there.

Extras:
The resin and silicone I've been using is a mix 1:1 by volume, and so I've not had to weigh anything. Read up about the specific materials you are buying beforehand.

Mould release:
I use Vaseline for the second half of a 2-part silicone mould.
I use Talc (unscented) for the inside of my silicone moulds (helps flow or resin and prevents bubbles sticking to the surface). You only need a surface coating, not piles of the stuff.
I use water for putty into Oyumaru (have I mentioned how much I love this stuff?) moulds.

I have dedicated equipment for my casting adventures, from plastic containers and an old glue spreader for stirring silicone (use a old paintbrush handle for resin).
A load of lego bricks for making mould boxes. Great for creating any size, reusable, and colourful.
Sulphur-free Plasticine for creating the first half of a 2-part silicone mould. Sulphur-free is important as that can bind to the platinum catalyst used in many (but not all) RTV silicones and make them inactive, preventing your silicone from curing.
The good thing with silicone and resin is that they can often be pulled out from the plastic containers so that they can be reused. Silicone in particular will only stick to silicone.

...and DrH, has a small side line of wonderful items for sale, I have bought many...

Just to leave this in for emphasis. I sell things.

That'll do for now.

Keep up the good work, Cam'.

Thank you all, oh and LoL Vik.

@ DrH. Thank you sir, brilliant post.

OK Couple bits...

Started laying in some metallic on the Plinth...



That's these two paints over each other. Had a White primer (Gesso) with a black wash over it under the metallic.


So it is currently looking like this..



Next working on building up the top , this is just for you Red, covering your edges. I agree with Red you should always do this and reds method is perfect, however, thought I would try something ...
If you are joining a right angle and you don't want to see the edge of one of the sheets, it has been a practice for some time to rebate (rabbit for New Yanky Workshop Fans) one of pieces to accept the other, I thought well what if I do that and fold the paper over....

But the fold is going to be difficult to keep in place?? Ah I will rivet it in place then.....



Oh and started making a base for the GUO...


Talking of the GUO, bit more painting done...Spoilering this cus it is not pleasant. I mean it.


It is getting there.

Well yet again, please feel free to comment thank you so much for looking and the feedback is really appreciated.

I love the pill box Cam. The added base to the plinth is great too.

As for the Nurgle thing. I do not like it. It is gross and icky. In this case I guess that is a good sign.

Cool tutorial and a good read Cam,

Also the container and the heavy weapon squad look ace, loving your work.

Amazing work as usual

Wow that dude is gruesome! What did you do to make the blood so wet looking? Also I don't remember if I commented on them in the past, but I wanted to make sure you know how impressed I am with the skull archways you made, they are so 40k.

Love the guardsmen and that box is amazing! Great work Cam!

Thanks guys and dolls, much appreciated.

@ Syro, BFTBG bud. But I do not just slap it on I layer stuff up a fair bit. Do you a tut soon.

Little progress...

Thought I would show me verdigris method, done it before I think but here you go....

Got my metallics done and dry, so I paint the surface a panel at a time with a light green blue, and then rub it off again...



Then dry brush over with the copper..



Then sponge on some mid green...


Then sponge over that with the blue.. note I don't do the whole panel.


Then hit it with a sepia wash.


Then a dry brush with a mix of the copper with some ywellow in it...





Between coats was touching up a few bits on the GUO base...


Hope that helps someone.

Thank you all so much for looking at my humble blog, and your wonderful comments really keep me going.

Excellent work with the AM Heavy Weapon team! Well done all around, but the compliments of colors and highlight detail are what made it an awesome model to me.

The volume of work you do and the level of quality you achieve always amazes me.

I had forgotten about sponge painting. Something so useful and simple completely vanished from my mind. It explains why I have so many sponge brushes. Thank you for showing your WIP.

I am back from a 4 year hiatus, and its great to see the same great faces still here This is looking great, loved the casting tutorial.

I happen to have been watching the yogscast on you tube playing and painting some necromunda this week, while getting back into my painting.

That last photo, did you leave a mini pizza out for too long. It's growing things

Yes, rabbets ( with an e actually) are a fine solution. Now ask me about mitre joints and foamcore. Okay, since you asked, not worth the aggravation. And the rabbet joints will hold up better anyways.

Base for the column(?) looks fantastic. That is a show-stopper of a centerpiece you have. And it's big, really big.

Which is great. Bigger= better.

Camkierhi,

Nice Autocanon team and shipping container.

Cheers,

CB

That's a great little tutorial on the panels, thanks for sharing that!

Thank you all so much really appreciate it.

So still WIP.....









And just for you Red, Pizza Boy...



Thank you so much for looking, all comments and thoughts welcome.

Thanks Cam, a tutorial on that would be great when you have the time. Also I was enjoying your "finished" pics of that amazing piece of underhive when I saw you said these are still WIP shots.... where are you possibly going to find something to improve on that?

Scenery is looking great, and the GUO and the base is looking totally disgusting.

Loving your work!

Underhive looks suitably epic. Grats!

Very cool piece of terrain, and thanks for sharing your techniques!

Still WIP he says... That thing is magnificent Cam, can't wait to see what more you'll add if this isn't 'finished' enough for you

No piece of terrain is every truly finished, we just stop working on them. Cam is far more tenacious than most.

Wow wow wow, that GUO is amazing!

Looking good, especially that terrain peace.

Wait, wait, wait! You mean as demonstrated here in this blog that the secret to modeling and figure painting success is:

- An innovative flair for looking at the world sideways and doing what others don't?
- Meticulous attention to detail?
- Arduous, multi-step processes that add fine and minute detail at each stage?
- Constant practice and development of skills?

That's it, I'm out!

More seriously- a truly impressive bout of work coming out of you Cam- really good stuff and got me thinking of what I' going to try and incorporate myself.

Thank you for the tutorials!

Jesus Cam, Do you have any idea how much top shelf stuff you've produced since I've trimmed my beard last? You should leave some time for commenting between amazing drops

Thank you all.

You lot are nuts....maybe nearly as nuts as me!!!!

What to add? Well STILL WIP here, but here's todays additions.......

Well you need some way of accessing the upper levels don't you....




And yes models stay put on the ramp...

This guy is in trouble...



So the other side..




Thank you all for looking, and the wonderful comments.

This is getting close now, few details to add the the lower half, and sort the base. Anyone think of anything I have missed?

Now a serious question, this thing being so big, I aint got room, so anyone want it, just have to cover postage.

Lastly, honestly guys I aint nothing special, most of you are better painters, and better modellers, a lot of what you see is inspired from you all, admittedly I am a slightly warped individual, so strange stuff comes out now and then. My point is any of you could do this, honestly. I spend hours a day ploughing through your blogs, and enjoy every minute of it. You are all amazing.

Seriously Guys, save the gushing for when it's finished. Effusive praise will suffice for now.

Productivity, Cam, is a skill unto itself. You have us all on that. And you are very creative/imaginative. That too is a valuable skill. I struggle with these very two things, so it gladdens my heart to find that there are folks who do not. Plus, borrowable ideas

Great job on the nurgle sculpt.
You've got "disgusting" down very well on him (sculpt and paint).
It has a very child-like appearance to the form (unlike the bloated, old man that GW produces). I see it running about like a toddler, not scary or violent in it's demeanour, but certainly "biologically" horrifying.

Would be interesting to see your take on the other 3 gods.

Terrain piece is looking excellent too.

My word, the GUO is certainly... unclean He's perfect campy nurgle, massive horrible looking sickly sore thing with a big stupid grin on his face!

That is turning into one massive diorama piece.

And moving bits as well... Still needs a kitchen sink somewhere

Now a serious question, this thing being so big, I aint got room, so anyone want it, just have to cover postage.

Make it a raffle for charity or something? Just giving it away seems like a shame... Though I'll admit you'll make someone very happy.

Cam, your tagging is legendary! Really makes the piece come alive and make a connection with the viewer. Wow.

Bloody hell Cam, it's hard enough reading up on all your work never mind trying to keep up with you! I really like that autocannon team...

Thank you everyone. Really appreciate it.

Been a bit slow.

Added some detail to the lower area...



Those nice solid looking boxes are from OneManNoodle, awesome resin work.

Had to replace the lamps in the kitchen spots, so got a box!

And after a little bit...

Crusty salt weathering.

After salt removed....you could stop here to be honest...


But I went and sponged it and washed it a bit, to make it nice and clean!!



And clearing my desk off so using up some of the spare parts...



@ CK, like that idea. thinking about it.

Thank you all for looking and as always C&C welcome.

Whoa! That thing is big enough to be a table all on its own!

Excellent use of the spare box. It's a very convincing cargo container.

Very nice indeed. Good tips as ever. I really like the Syro tag btw.

The GUO is just grotesque, he is awesome. You scenery is just amazing, so much detail and colour. Its inspiring and motivating.

'Been a bit slow' he says.. Lovely work, and nice use of that box

Totally agreeing with Josh, that could be a gaming table on its own. Superb work Cam.

Have you finished your LoER contest entry yet?

Thank you all.

Going to do final pics of the spire foot tomorrow, in the day light.

So by no means finished just did a bit of painting on the hut.

Got to now add all the detail.

Next up, just for you Skalk, I am also starting on the LoER Terrain Competition entry. It is the 25th round and the competition is already looking good. Hoping to see lots of people entering.
https://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/751255.page

Now I am setting myself a challenge here, I always treat the LoER comps very seriously, and try to keep to the spirit of the comp. I tend to use junk materials and scratch build everything if possible. However when I build for someone, I tend to try and use the best materials I can, making something that will last. Not that the LoER entries are not built to last, but there is a difference between cardboard and styrene. This comp falls in line with a project I am doing for twinner. He has asked for another tables worth of scenery, Part of the project will be a Manufacturum building or two. So I think I will do the tank factory for the comp entry, but this gives me a problem/challenge, to keep within the spirit of the competition, I should limit my materials a little. So now I have to make sure that I am completely happy with the end result, and make it from junk.

Well broken that rule already, using foam core and half decent card stock....I beams.


And started on one wall...



Also knocked up some bit that are still wip at present but will be masters for other buildings...


Not a lot really, had such hopes for today, but did not get a lot done.

Anyways, thank you for looking in really appreciate all your input.

 Camkierhi wrote:
Not a lot really, had such hopes for today, but did not get a lot done.

I used to wonder if you were being ironic. Since I've been back I've realized its simply how you feel. Being an impressively high function modeler at a level few of us could maintain for any length of time is irrelevant. You have to meet your own expectations, and sometimes you just don't.

I know what you mean Cam, but I’m sure your,ll get loads done next time you sit down and pick up the knife.
League of riviters looks like a fun way to get stuff done too, might have to see what the next theme is and join in

following you mister,... even if i am not commenting every night...sometimes your works need lots of time to be visually digested... its like an equivalent of a big and juicy holiday meal...seeing all your work leaves one full...

as for Cam´s self expectations... i think of him as a true Calvinist...whenever he is not utterly productive he thinks of himself as lazy... yet he is then even more productive than the average hobby freak like us...well...to each their own road to burn out

also... you got me having deep thoughts about casting... currently i took your idea of excess casting material and used it to start dabbing a toe into the theme...we´ll see if casting can be some new modus operandi for me...cross fingers mate^^

And there I was, settling for some angle beams 'cause I wasn't crazy enough to scratch build an I's one (H's hereabouts), and you go and make enough for a full building in a low day, !

Give yourself a break, Cam, or us at least!

Looking, as usual, great!

Thank you all, very much appreciated.

@ Skalk, Thanks bud.
@ Alaricuk, You need to check it out bud, no pressure, enjoyable and so many cool ideas.
@ Vik, Looks like you are off to a good start on the casting, good luck with it. Hopefully you soon realise it aint no rocket science.
@ LT, Haha, Thanks bud.

Little progress....
Strengthened the frame. Glued stirrers to the internal foam core, once set and internal lined this will add considerable strength.


Oh yeah cut a few of the bases I will need...


Internal linings...



Made up the "steel" frame work...


So here I am,



Scale shot..


Supply drop...


Having an early night tonight, bit tired and sore.

Thank you for looking, all comments and critique are truly gratefully received.



Automatically Appended Next Post:
Meant to say, this is going to be a modular build. There will be another end similar to this and at least one middle section.

Okay, what the dickens is this mystery substance?

A scone? It does look tasty.

I approve of your building materials. And the use of small binder clips as clamps. It looks to be a good size too. Plenty of room for details.

I disapprove of the implied sentiment which I detect (possibly incorrectly) here

 Camkierhi wrote:
... I tend to try and use the best materials I can, making something that will last. Not that the LoER entries are not built to last, but there is a difference between cardboard and styrene.

Cardboard stuff that I've built has lasted many years, decades or even a quarter century in a few cases. It's seen hard use too. It is easier to repair than plastic, and holds paint better. The only weakness is water. (finally I found a use for that Orcmoji. )

Do you seal those MDF bases with anything before painting and gluing?

That's looking like one hell of an entry.... Nice supply drop as well Wonder what all those extra mdf bases are for.. don't tell me you're going to make it a full-blow assembly line?

Thanks guys,

@ Red, Fruit cake, home made, and very nice.

And yes I agree you are correct and I humbly ask for forgiveness. I have seen your structures holding massive weights, and many of my own are still going many years later, they are all fit for gaming. My point was more that as I am being paid for this (maybe) I feel a bit of a cheat using cereal packets and coffee stirrers.

Oh and nope. Don't seal it at all, I am using laminate flooring boards. they have a coating on already, plus I tend to cover most of the surface with other stuff, such as sand etc. I got these dirt cheap as they were an end of line, and in the sale so bought several boxes of different finished boards, but all at £1 a box from a DIY store. (B&Q) each box is 1.2m square worth.

@ CK maybe close to it by the time I am finished.

OK First up, some fancy pics....these are final pics so take a good look, fully zoomable















And some combo shots..




I have also started a Showcase thread, it is not really a showcase, more a catalogue of all my projects. it is here:
https://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/751608.page

OK now more important...update...
Applied a screed of dental plaster to the floor...

And started on some of the internal fittings....


Thank you all for looking, and C&C as always is most welcome.

Catalog= showcase really.

Do watch out for warping. That MDF is cut just right to bow along its length. Of course you would end up realistic cracks in the dental plaster, so not a complete disaster.

Liking the current build!

The building I get...the green and white and red...not so...looks Italian to me

That necromunda piece is a thing of beauty, I'm glad you're showcasing it. You're a real machine on progress with your new build too. looking good, I'm looking forward to seeing what you do with those internal fittings you've been building.

Thank you guys, very much appreciated.

Tonight...





Cut some bases earlier...


Oh and those internal fittings...




Oh @Red, agree about the warping though with this stuff I have yet to have an issue.

Thanks for looking....

Those mechanical arms are mind-blowing!

It’s a shame you are having to get rid of it. It’s a beautiful piece. Maybe let one of those who inspired your work take it. There are a lot of names graffitied on it. I know if it was me I would be honored to have it. And I bet those with their names on it feel the same. Again fantastic piece.

You builds are great. Those arms look very tedious. Can’t wait to see the finished product. You have a great attention to detail.

Wow. I just can't wrap my head how much you get done. Proper blink and you'll miss it. And of course you have ridiculously high expectations of yourself. I'm stealing the Beware the Beast graffiti, btw.

OMG the stair case, and the mechanical arms are just amazing!!

Great job on the Necro'-foot-thingie. So many great touches throughout.

Smashing work on the robo-arms. Makes me wish mine were cooler-looking in the ol' workshop.

Stealing that stair design. And the robot arms. And the whole thing, while I'm at it :p

Gitsplitta said it right, those mechanical arms are truly mind blowing!
I thought you'd be sick of being in charge of LoER competitions by now

I dont check in and Bam, all this work done. Your Necromunda terrain is so good Cam I just dont have the words to say how happy it makes me. I will 3rd or 4th it how cool the mech arms look such a realistic feel to them. I would say keep up the good work but you keep surpassing yourself over and over again. Thanks for sharing it all!

Same here! The rate Cam' turns out his stuff just boggles me!
All very high quality too, the mechanical arms are great, properly lovely necromunda terrain; Cam' continues to 'knock it out the park'!!

I'm loving all your underhive terrain Cam', theres not really anything i can say apart from 'keep doing what youre doing!'

Thanks everyone. bunch of dafties.

So had to go to the Hospital this morning for Fracture Clinic, last visit they don't want to see me again, over to the Physio's now. Good/Bad news, they recon I will be off for a few weeks yet.

So this afternoon I started mucking about with the interior paint. I know this may seem strange, many/most people complete a model before painting, and I have only done 1 part of several, and that to only a basic level. I do this to make sure I am happy with design and finish, mainly because I do not want to waste too much material.

Start with a nice clean paint job....



Lets scrub that floor, wet toothbrush...


Notice I do not scrub areas where there would be no wear..


Add some detail paint, hazard stripes etc. please note how rough I am on this, yes I know I have masked it, but just look at how rough those stripes are.


And here is a mistake, my impatience has given me an issue, the plaster was not fully dry and the paint has come away with the masking tape, bugger!


Not an issue....Another coat of green....


Some roughing up with brushes and damp tissue..



Also wanted to make it look like the steel work was once yellow....dabbed on white..


Then painted the yellow over it and after a scrub, I am sponging on black .


Sponged over some metallic, messed up the rubber matting on the steps and gave it awash of Angry Rex.


I know that the stairs are not really brilliantly to scale, but I tried to get them so they can be used...


You may have noticed I washed the walls!!?


So happy with where I am going I can now start adding detail and making the other sections of the factory.


My point earlier with the rough painting, was, you should remember where you are going and not get fixated on accuracy when it is not overly necessary. I could have spent another hour on those stripes masking off carefully and all, and then I am going to attack it with a toothbrush!!! And even then the masking tape I did use ripped all the paint off, but in the end, no worries adds to the worn effect. Guess what I am trying to say is don't get too hung up an perfection, compromise a little for speed and efficiency. Keep in mind your end goal. You tell me do my hazards look terrible?

(Don't get me wrong here folks, there is a time and place for accuracy, I will happily spend an entire day putting checkers on my orks or spend days riveting to the millimetre on an imperial tank.)

Oh and finally, hehe, Sir Donlad has posted this, worth a look folks.


Thank you for looking and as always completely open to C&C.

There's a reason we called the Physio guys 'Bonebreakers' when I was actively parachuting- if something wasn't wonky when you went in, it sure was when you came out! On the other hand, they are an important part of the healing process- hang in there!

Absolutely brilliant idea on the stairs- reasonable to scale and totally playable- brilliant.

Fantastic staircase Cam, you’ve really ploughed on with this peice, looking excellent

Looks ace Cam, and I'm with you on the staged painting thing. Helps visualise the end product sometimes.

That looks brilliant!

I like the dutch stairs!

Nice work on your factory piece, Cam.

Thank you all.

Got one of the mid sections going...


Sat at desk doing this lot at mo.


Thats a tiny track unit, thank you OMN for the idea.


And some more robotic arms, these are made using florist wire, and beads, and a small bit of styrene for the claws.


More soon, thanks for looking in.

Excellent work. Hold off on making walkways, you might find a box arriving soon.

More amazing stuff every day!

I'm stealing that idea for the florist wire/bead robotic arms! So many applications.

Terrific build going- love seeing your pieces come together. It's like time compressed photography!

Really cool idea on the arms!

Excellent bit of scratchwork with the beads. Never would have occurred to me to do that.

Thank you all.

Here is my bench...


Wall plate for some of the arms...


Mobile blowtorch.


And some servitors...



Bit tired, thank you for looking

haha little guy at the end is class! Whats his job? I can picture it something very grim dark, like they made him so small because he has to get inside the machines when there's something jammed or stuck

The mobile blowtorch makes me think of the robot in the Iron Man films, which isn't a bad thing.

The arms and torch look really nice.

Frankly Cam I'm disappointed. I figured you'd have your entry completed by now and 1/2 way through your next project.

















hahah

I look at them and I think scutters... Very cool.

The bead and wire arms turned out great, and I like the mobile blow torch too. Lots of cool ideas happening

Thanks all.

@ Skalk, been a bit distracted last few days, going to knuckle down now.

@ Boundless...




Not sure were I will go with him, but for now clean up duty...

OK this is starting to add a few items to the interior.






The "brief" for this is a tables worth of terrain, set on a Imperial Forgeworld, but it has been taken over by Chaos, so this is going to look grungy, but going to get worse as I think this one will have been visited by Papa Nurgle. Building it straight to start with and will destroy it later.

Second section floor in...


Well tomorrow might be a struggle, got to go in to work for an interview thingy. But once that is done, I plan on really knuckling down on this, as Skalk pointed out, I am falling behind.

You have such fantastic imagination and good attention to detail. Just blows me away every time you post up something new. Very inspiring my friend, thank you!

Great work. Like all the scutter-alikes.

Good luck with the interview-thingie, if you're not snowed in.

Seeing the scope of your project and the intense detail of the bitz I retract my admonishment. But it had better be done by the end of the weekend.

Thank you all,

Have done a few bits and pieces, but for now only have a couple scale shots for you....This is the ground level....




Think I might be a bit on the small side....

Thanks for looking.

It seems the right size, but the ceiling is a bit low. Nothing to get upset about though.

The green floor with those stripes, looks like a football field... US football, and field=pitch.

Good stuff.

Amzing Stuff Cam. I like how well the Russ fits on, very precise.

Gang with garage and fancy digs, they have a vision of greater than other gangs.

That is looking like a proper factory line. I love it, man.

The speed at which your completing sections is mind blowing Cam, really looking forward to seeing it finished, by the en£ of the weekend at this rate

Very nice! Love the colour choices

Wow, Cam! This is looking really nice so far. Keep the posts coming man!

Do you have some power over space time, as you get so much done so quickly. Its looking great. I had better pull my finger out on my project.

Cam, would you do me a favor? Use your time machine to go back to the point that I lost the hobby drive you have and prevent me from losing it? - Thanks bud

Thank you all, really appreciated,

Not really got stuck in til today, finally a little progress...






Crazy nice supply drop from Skalk...


Oh and started in on some different exterior panels..


Thanks again.

everything looks fantastic...the factory is developing in an awesome way....but i have to add myself here ...it is for a full factory still too short...it´s more likely a small workshop...for orks even smaller "factories" would be ok...but IOM build suchlike as big as whole cities...in my opinion...#

the walls are stunning...looking forward to see them painted!

I have always wanted to do a factory. I am keen on seeing how you apply the parts you got.

You are the true king of rivets.

Looking promising as usual . Nice loot haul, and nice casts as well!

Thank you all.

@Vik, You know you are right, going to have to make it bigger.

So a few little details sorted...



Made some shelving with stock..



And added a lift...


For access to the upper levels as they are built..


Tested to see how it handles weight....


So getting there..


twinner is sending some tank parts for the build, so between that and the parts from Skalk I am sitting pretty on this project. Remember This is only one building of the 4-8 "buildings" I will make for this. Might have to expand this a bit , it will definitely get a secon level, with windows and obviously at least a walkway around. Thinking of adding an Administratum Office above that. All will be modular so can be broken down, used as parts or together. Should be high enough to hide a Warhound, but you could probably get a couple thousand points of troops inside this monster., should be gangway through the centre for a Landraider. ( or 3) to go through. Plan is to make at least another one of these types of building with supporting buildings such as fuel dumps etc. Maybe do a few chaos ruins so they can flavor it up.

Anyways, thoughts as always appreciated. Thank you for looking.

"A working lift, in 28mm scale- no big deal really, just knocked it out between breakfast and elevensies..." Holy cow that's awesome! Is it magnetized? How'd you manage it?

The whole factory looks great and the little 'Cam' details are just making it perfect!

Your factory and its new additions are looking great as usual, I absolutely love that shelf of supplies

It’s weird. When you first started it I thought that’s kinda cool. Now that you are getting further along with the details it’s awesome. The shelf you just added give so much depth and character. Can’t wait to see what more you add.

I'll tell you something, it's a damn sight tidier than my garage
Shelves are ace, perfect wee touch.

That shop interior is fantastic Cam!

amazing (uh-mey-zing)

adjective
1.causing great surprise or sudden wonder.

verb (used with object), amazed, amazing.
1.to overwhelm with surprise or sudden wonder; astonish greatly.


You are an amazing modeler. I'll never not be impressed at the speed you build something out of random stuff and the depth of detail you apply. You didn't waste any time applying those bitz. I had dozens of ideas for them over the years and did nothing. You've had them 3 days and they are all over the model you're building. I really want to send you an old shoe, a plastic soda bottle, and a 2 ft length of ruined garden hose just to see what you would do with it.

Nice, but... yes, a but... I don't think that I have ever seen 55 gal. drums placed on a shelf. It seems a bit out of place.

Cam lives in the land of Metrics so it would be a 55 liter drum, which roughly equals 14.5 US gallons.

Gentlemen, I thought everyone knew, any steel drum, only spends the first one maybe two months of its life with any proper product in it, these obviously are placed on the shelves to hold nuts and bolts on an Imperial scale.

And talking of Imperial, you see I firmly believe in having an open approach to such things, so I have no quibbles with using the metric system when I have to, but any true subject of the British Empire uses Imperial measurement. 55 Gallons will be fine, as will 6'1" tall and 20 stone, and a pound of Liquorice and 2x4 timber, thank you.

LOL thanks gebts, making me happy.


Automatically Appended Next Post:
Supply drop...


Now production can really start....


Messed about a bit today, made a moldline removal tool. Always fancied one to see what they are like from GW, but bloody hell the price, so got an old kitchen knife, could have bought a new one for £1. and attacked it with my not-dremel....



And got an old blunt razor saw blade and sharpened it up and made a handle ...turns out it is brilliant at cutting foam core in nice square straight lines...




OK back at it....thanks for looking in.

Great progress, Cam'. Looking like a proper factory floor there.

What is the difference between a mould line removal tool, and a razor blade?

 M0rdain wrote:
What is the difference between a mould line removal tool, and a razor blade?

About three dollars!

Love the hand tools. Have a soft spot in my heard for them.

Thanks all.

@MOrdian, was not sure myself. I usually use a scalpel to remove most mould lines, but seeing the GW one in vids made me wonder. The biggest difference is the tool is blunt. No actually more than that, it is squared off. Also shaping it to a fine prong means it can get into areas you would struggle to get a blade. Being square and blunt you do not run the risk of cutting yourself, or damaging your work piece. I have tried it out and got to say I am impressed.
Not sure if you meant the saw blade here, so the blade is about an inch in depth, it is still serrated, but I have ground it to a sharp edge. Even down to honing it on a stone. It is sharp as heck. Seems to be holding an edge, and thanks to the back brace on the blade is very true and straight. As a saw the blade was done. Useless. But 5 minutes work, and this is very useful.
Thanks for looking, great to have questions and comments thank you.

Love the factory theme, and realisation, especially the servo arms! Cool to see how you make tools too!

Tank factory is looking ace Cam, those robot arms are so cool. I keep looking and finding more little bits that a person misses by just taking a quick peek. Uh mazing.

Amazing work cam, the factory looks awesome. I've had my eye on making a big building for a while now, and it looks like you've beaten me too it.

The recycled razor blade good idea. The handle, why not an old broom handle section or something less dangerous looking?

That's an insane amount of resin.

20 stone. That's 280 pounds? or a Curling reference

285 before I put my shoes on. Already used about a third of that resin and agree about the handle, but thought I would try some fun, and besides what is life without a little danger!

@ OMN do it bud, your terrain is fantastic, would love to see what you could do with a factory unit.

I've seen handles like that on other websites... just sayin'...

Razor saw is a good idea, I have one but always struggled to get any good results or find a material it cuts well

I need to get me some resin and have a go at casting - looks like fun

OK update...

Started on the exterior...


Cast a few wall panels...


And that time when you just don't have the right dimension in stock, just make it happen....



Thank you for looking...

Razor saws make nice work of acrylics, thin plastics and certain woods. For heavier stuff that is not metal you go with a gent's saw. For using them, score the material first.

And that is how to build up stock to the right dimensions. I have about 30 clamps like that. I bought an entire box of them some time ago. Damned useful things.

The roof wants skylights. Yes, it does.

That's so cool that you were making your own tools! I like to do that too. I see what Red Harvest is talking about with worrying about sturdiness of the razor saw handle, I'd be a little worried too. But, if it's all connected really strongly, not only does that look really cool, but that bead texture probably gives your hand a better grip than a smooth handle would.

Also that's an awesome amount of resin you got there

I love the shelves with all the stowage.

Damn, give us a chance Cam... Jeez !!!

(Looking amazing BTW...)

Thanks folks...

Bit more...





Thank you for looking, and the comments are wonderful.

Wall detailing looks great. I love how organically your stuff evolves (As evidenced by the gradual painting!)

Looking spectacular Cam! You're really taking this to a new level

What paint do you use to bast coat. Is it a standard acrylic, as i'm guessing they are too big to use citadel pots, and it does not look like spray.

^He uses artist's gesso acrylic, I believe.

Great stuff, Cam! From anyone else- saying they were going to build an entire village/factory complex/fill in the blank, I'd say to myself "wait and see". From you it's "What's new today?" as I know you're going forward full steam. Lots for me to learn here!

Thanks guys and dolls.

@ MOrdian see below bud.

Thank you so much folks really appreciate the comments.

Bit more done...





@ MOrdian, here you go, I use this stuff, it is about £10 for 500ml, drys quick enough, excellent coverage. Oh and biggest factor, it does not matter what the hell the weather is doing, prime in doors with a brush. This stuff shrinks back and retains detail well.


And as a by the by, I use a lot of this stuff in different colours for my general paints...


Mega high pigment level means that I mix this 1 part paint to 4 parts thinners. I get very good washes and if I don't thin it quite as much I get excellent paint, most of my recent work, certainly any yellow you see is this. I have black, white, red, burnt sienna, green blue and purple. From that selection I can make just about any colour you can name.

I know there is an initial expense but in the long run, how much black or white do you use, £10 for 500ml is a massive saving over £2.60 for 12ml GW ask.

I also mix a lot of my paints, so will build up a base colour with the cheap stuff, and add maybe a pot of GW stuff and some ink to get something in particular I am after. This is bad advise, as any decent painter will keep the colours consistant and not rely on eyeballing and "that will do".

Hope that helps.

Thanks for looking in and please feel free to Q&A and C&C

i like what i see here!

It should deffo have a little shrine somewhere with dripping candles to match the gothic feel you've given the outside.

those exterior metal bulkhead sections will contrast really nicely with the concrete/rock above and below it, i eagerly await the next update!

Ta SD, will do bud.

Bit more done...







Thanks for looking in, very much appreciated.

Crazy good.

Even though I've come to expect this level of production and creativity from you I'm still staggered every time you offer an update. I'm running out of adjectives to describe your work, even with an online Thesaurus at my fingertips. I'm going to have to start using pictures emoticons.

Painters keep a notebook with all the paint recipes.

Looks very playable the project. Very cool. That floor and the lines... indoor soccer field

Give it a level of clerestory lights. Many buildings like that have them.

Carry on with the excellent work...

The factory has my complete attention and admiration. Your paint tricks are affordable. How thrifty.

Cam when you get the chance lets build a titan factory

Thanks folks.

@ Gits and Skalk, thank you gents.
@ Red, would just not happen after the first day. The colour of the floor is a mickytake, the greenzone in most workshops is the safe zone, no H&S in 40K except hazard stripes. And lighting will be in the next level.
@ CP oh yeah, definitely, you need a workshop for your little collection?

OK Not a great deal done...


Not even a decent pic.

More laters, thank you all.

The upper floor is coming along nicely. And yeah i need a big workshop like 6ft by 4ft me thinks.

Oh that isnt an upper floor. Hmmm...

Bah. I mix all my colours by eye. That is when I don't use a paint as it is from the pot (with added solvent, of course)

Keep up the great work on the factory.

Thanks guys.

Couldn't sleep...


Help.....which windows....




Kinda leaning toward the second one myself, but what do you guys think?

Can't sleep, clown will eat me...
First one, actually. Prefer the gothic architecture, assuming it's full grimdark.

Great progess Cam! I prefer the gothic windows for the 40K feel of it, though I'll gladly admity the square ones look quite industrial.

The gothic one look sicks, but for game play the square ones allow line of sight. I am torn between the 2.

i am with you cam, second version of the windows...non gothic...
have you thought about sloped roof?...these ziczak roofs factories have?...

other than that... lurking...but lapping up each update with great hunger and thirst for more...

Thanks all, still not fully decided.

Few more bits...







For giggles (Red) 1.7 kg (nearly 2 lbs)...


And did a little bit of work on the back door....


Thank you all for looking in, and the comments are wonderful.

Wow, I can't get over how fast you work. How much hobby time to you get each day? I'm really enjoying watching this piece come together.

You're going too fast! I'm still digesting that shelf!!!

As the judge I don't know if I'm allowed to help with deciding on the windows , but great progress as always Cam. You have such vision. That's really impressive how that crossbeam is holding all that weight, is that all plastic card, or something else?

@JoshInJapn: I don't know if Cam really gets that much hobby time each "day", but I know he pulls a lot of long nights building his wonders

I'm sorry, that's not proper.

There's no Tank Commander shouting "DRIVE ME CLOSER!" in that tank.

That wallpaper is....breathtaking...

Nice work all round, but especially on that mural... Kudos to you good sir!

 Camkierhi wrote:

For giggles (Red) 1.7 kg (nearly 2 lbs)...

Well done, padawan. 1.7kg= 3.74 lbs., so a bit more impressive, especially considering that it is foamcore. Yes, I do have a conversion app on my phone.

Non Gothic windows, of course. Gothic windows belong on cathedrals, not factorys. Not ever.

I am astounded by the structural integrity of the cross beam. You should consider building a full scale version in your back yard Cam.

Can did you ever study structural integrity? Because you nailed it.

Foamboard is stronger than it looks. I'm surprised the joints are holding.

It's looking really impressive Cam, great work.

That's mega Cam, looks really nice.

Perhaps , as in the future there is only war, it's too nice and should have holes in the walls ?

Very very cool however, and àt a speed that can only be marvelled at, do you drink Redbull on an industrial level ?

Nice work, Cam'.
Good job on the mural.

I'd say the square windows as there's not much Gothic on the outside of the building. It looks very functional for a building, and that needs functional windows.

Thank you all, really appreciate it.

I honestly really appreciate your comments guys, really means the world to me, not got half as much done as I would like, but had a bad few days. (seems to be going around) getting through it with Dakka though.

Anyways, guess I better stick up a little progress,

Got a question or two. What do we think of the roof, and should the roof be attached to the first floor walls?







In answer to your questions, I decided some time ago, I would stick to one thing, my modelling. This means I don't really watch TV, I don't mess about with other projects, I just model. And when I settle down I get on with it, no procrastination, do that on the toilet, sit and think what I am doing next. The only real distractions are the occasional film, or spending time on Dakka on your blogs. I don't sleep much, I don't go out at all really. Normally just work and then modelling. I also don't plan anything, I mean I kinda have an idea what I am going to do, but no set pattern to go by. For instance I made 3 different versions of the main beams before I was happy, but I just make it, look at it, and no, OK, make another. So I just sit, the only thing in the background is music or youtube, listening to Dogman Encounters right now, been listening to a lot of Spaced Out Radio, say what you like about it, it is interesting but not distracting, and no flashing images. Anyways I hope that kinda fills in the blanks a bit, the truth is I have a lot of time at this, but I am probably very fast too, don't think too much, and fortunately have a lifetime of experience in modelling and construction at all levels, qualified Mechanical Engineer too, so maybe I have a few advantages on you guys. Mind you I have no idea what a Sternguard is and am scetchy at best on lore, so swings and roundabouts.

Thank you for looking, thank you again for the comments and hope to be back soon.

I love the roof Cam. You should make it removable so people can enjoy the view into the model, but put little registration pins or blocks on it so it's right spot can easily be found and it sits securely where it belongs.

I agree with Gitsplitta, that model is too nice to make any parts of it hard to see. So it'd be nice to keep the roof detachable. It's a shame everyone on Dakka lives so spread out, if everyone was close by I doubt you'd ever have a chance to work on your models. We'd all want to get in games with you too frequently.

It’s all coming together nicely Cam please make sure that roof is removable. You have put to much effort on the interior to not make it accessible.

+1 for the removable roof, but build something in so it can be slotted into place and not slip off. Easy enough to make something that looks like part of the structure, or even just decoration.

What are the approximate internal dimentions? Also how much space is there between the struts?
I'm only curious about how big it is, but the distance between the struts might affect someone getting their hands in & out.

Speaking of those struts, It would be a shame to leave them like that, I'm sure they would be able to support a gantry and/or Cartesian arm or three. Just what you need in a workshop.

I spend ages designing, even planning rivet placement, I even went so far as to try animating the plans on one thing I made just to make sure it wan't too unrealistic, but to each their own.

Edit: Looks awesome Cam, it really does.

The roof does look very cool, and yes removable would be best. Maybe magnatise it?

Looks like a roof fit for skylights. I approve.

The other section could be flat, with some stuff on it, vents, lights, etc. Attach the roof if internal access is possible some other way.

Square windows, roof looks great (just like the Red October Tractor Factory at Stalingrad), make it removable- but idiot-proof it (ie: make it so it can't slip off unless you're deliberately removing it).

On second thought: make it idiot resistent, nothing is idiot proof.

Great stuff, as always!

The trouble with idiots are that they are so inventive (to paraphrase Sir Terry Pratchett)
Love the skylights, so authentic. Should be removable, aye.

It's looking good Cam', keep at it!!

+3 or +4 for removable roof, being able to get into the model later may help with further changes or adjustments required later.

Interesting on how you view your time in the hobby, I myself are quite the opposite, I have to many things going on and I want to do them all (this does leave me quite tired during the day) I guess i have a case of FOMO or something else that drives me to do ALL the things.

Interesting to ponder on.

Thank you all.

Thank you all for your thoughts, glad people seem to like it. I seem to have mislead you though, the roof was always going to be removable as such, but I wondered if the mid section 1st floor and roof should be removable as one. As to access, I can easily get my huge ham fists in about everywhere so should not be a problem. I will also be adding a lot more details yet, Like the gantry and block and tackle and such. Also got to add a "Alter" somewhere, thinking front internal wall up high.

So been working a little on an Ork project, but did get some done today, in the groove a bit....

Pic drop........







And here goes the break down, this will remain the "parts" of this build.






And a silly shot..


Well really appreciate any comments. thanks for looking.

All I have right now is wow.

Very, very cool.

Needs tanks

That is actually really close to being a reasonable building for 40k. Only option is to shell it with earth shakers to fit in.

Very nice!
Had a screen timeout while viewing again - are you going for the 'disused' look or will this be 'fully working but severely neglected'?

Amazing work, Cam. It's a proper feat of Engineering this, not a piece of terrain!

Wow... that terrain is legit. What are you using it for? I love it.

Great stuff Cam, if you are going to game with it I would have roof and 2nd floor come off as one. Just easier to move about IMO.

Thank you all.

This terrain is for a boards worth I am making for twinner of the Basement Collective a youtube channel.

It is meant to be beyond normal usage, even to the extent of Chaotic influences, thinking of Nurgling this up a bit.


Really just dropping in to say great news for Dakka, Teek has returned. His work is some of the most inspirational work I have ever seen.
Check it out...
https://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/210/208277.page

Thanks for looking.

Proof of life.

Not got much done last few days, but did get a few bits moving...




Thanks for looking.

 Camkierhi wrote:
Proof of life.

Not got much done last few days, but did get a few bits moving...

Spoiler:

Thanks for looking.

Thanks bud. Honestly I am not half as active as I should be. Bit frustrated with it. Maybe I need a change of pace or something.

OK here we go.....

More work on the roof sections...





And after a couple licks of paint...Still very much WIP here...






I am a bit happier at the mo, but still really want a day at this to really crack the back of it. And for some reason I am not getting it.

Well thank you all for looking in, and as always C&C are most welcome.

I think it’s really coming together Cam, love all the little details your adding. Got to ask are you going to add lights?

Yep, I'd agree. I think that's coming along beautifully.

i think you crossed the line with this one here for "mere" tabletop terrain making...this is so...wholesome looking...it is a true model...i can see a teacher giving lectures and pointing at certain structures to details making claims about how this was built "back then that way..."

Great work, Cam'. Really like the skylights.

As for the conversation about the removable roof: Having just built and painted a model with integrated roof and walls, I'd say keep the roof separate from the walls.

I'm assuming it's not needed for structural integrity of the walls. There's times I can see that removing the roof and leaving the walls in place being useful (one of those is painting, but you have that covered already).

It legit looks like a proper factory, I am really impressed with this build so far!

Put it next to a proper background, and you wouldn't know it' s a scale mini...

I'm liking that roof detail.

Quelle surprise.

All of it very well done Cam- really impressed with the wide assortment of materials you've pulled together to make this. I still need a display board for photographing the occasional piece I'm able to turn out; you've got me thinking that some blue insulating foam board might be the way to go: easily embossed, lightweight but strong, cheap. It's the textured concrete of the modelling world!

Thanks folks,

Kinda at a stage with the factory got to look at it, still got lots to do. One job was dirty the windows...



Another was make a claw lift cradle for the interior....


But while I am thinking about it, started on the next piece.....




I have realistically done this lot today as have had several days off modelling with other things IRL getting in the way, so hoping to get back at it properly soon.

Thank you for looking in really appreciate the comments folks, means a lot to me.

Nice use of I-beams to make rails. But they need spikes into the sleepers.

/railroadnerdguy

Just keeps getting better and better Cam. Keep up the great work!

That’s looking awesome Cam.

Looking forward to seeing it finished

Oooh, are those lights I see?

Nice work Cam- quite a lot done already and great anticipation for more to come!

Thanks all.

@ Brianj, agreed, will sort it promise.
@ Yorkright, Nah going to the dark side matey.

@ All Thank you folks really appreciate the comments.

So, not sure how much colour I want to add to this...


Scale shot....(yes I know it is a bit on the big side, but this is a forge world train, carries things like Titan parts around.)


For those who might care, I actually went with OH Scale (not a typo) as in oh bugger it that looks about right.

Also started on something to go on the tracks if they want a bit of extra cover.




The whole thing is yet to get detailing. Also probably a couple more bases that will extend it in a modular fashion. Not too much. Still working on the factory as well.

Comments and critique welcome, thanks for looking.

Rail lines tend to be fairly colorless. What you have seems just right. Maybe some lighter gray drybrushing on the concrete sidewalk.

That is a massive railway wheel. And now I'm curious to see what is going onto it. Darn you, Cam. I just can't quit this thread.

Not that I've tried. it just seemed a fun thing to say

Yup- the engine that this wheel is part of ought to be big enough to haul a part of a Titan....

It still amazes me: some people, when they need a part, go to the shop and buy it. Others go on eBay, and buy it. Others go through their bits box and adapt something. Some see something floating around in their trash and repurpose it.

But not Cam- when he needs a part, he throws together a mold and casts it on the spot, oftentimes producing something of commercially marketable grade that could earn him millions- millions I tells ya- if only he'd go to the dark side and become a full time designer!

On a more serious note- well done Cam; the wheel looks very much the purpose-built, cast item from a real factory.

Hey guys, we finally got a battle report posted with the first amazing terrain set CAM made for us, check it out! Also these updates a jaw dropping CAM, truly amazing.

So, are you going to build titan parts to be transported as well? Outstanding work Cam!

Thanks all.

Fantastic batrep twinner, thank you bud, you are too kind, honestly.

I just noticed DiDDe is back. That's his latest Nid on the gallery.

IRL keeping me busy at mo, but hope to have a productive weekend ahead.

Beautiful work as always, hope your weekend rocks.

Awesome stuff Cam

Good job on the train platform/stop/thing.

Here comes Cam-city, with train set ups, food and construction workers will roll right in!

Thank you all, you are too kind.

Did a little work on this...


So progressing a little. thank you for looking in.

It reminds me of a cotton gin for some reason, probably because of the huge wheel, which is super cool by the way .

I was thinking locomotive...

I was thinking locomotive too, but perhaps the cylinder is part of a titan?

That has a very retro engine vibe. Makes me think of some of the stuff in the STEAM GWR Museum (Swindon) or the Deutches Museum.

http://www.steam-museum.org.uk/Pages/Home.aspx

http://www.deutsches-museum.de/en

Swindon isn't a particularly pretty town, but the museum is nice and worth a visit if you are in the area.

The Deutsches Museum is fantastic. It, the Smithsonian, and the British Museum are all fantastic. While the British Museum is a testament to the British ability to loot the world, the Smithsonian to all manner of history and science, the Deutches Museum is solely dedicated to engineering in all it's facets.

I'd guess an engine, but could be anything really, knowing Cam's mind

Thank you all.

yes it is a Locomotive. Got a lot to do to it, and also going to do another track section, and a carraige/stockcar. Can all be modular so can leave them off, only use certain pieces etc. Should add a bit of fun to a game of 40k.

Getting very frustrated not getting in my desk time at the mo, life interfering.

Did manage to get the next set of boggy wheels cast up....


Also got a supply drop....Greenstuffworld.

Clear bases, seriously thinking of putting my necromunda gangers on clear bases. Beats running around with a manhole strapped to your feet.
http://www.greenstuffworld.com/en/acrylic-round-bases/567-acrylic-bases-round-32-mm-clear.html#


Also got this little puppy and very happy...
http://www.greenstuffworld.com/en/formable-metals-foil/357-corrugator-tool-for-corrugated-metals.html

And some more bluestuff for a few quick molds.

Today while out running around managed to see this in poundland, it is an ashtray, but I think it will make a good paintwater do da.


Well hopefully a little more productive over next few days.

Thank you for looking in.

If you hadn't said it was an ashtray, I'd have thought it was one of those custom dealies the modelling shops sell to clean your brushes in.

Perhaps you could mount a paperclip, or a slotted bit of plastic across the opening, and it would friction-hold the brush stem so the bristles could be suspended in the water without getting squished against the bottom of the cup?

On second thought, not sure if there is a need, or any value in that...

Still a useful paint brush cleaner!

Nice bogey wheels too!

I never even thought of looking for a paper crinkler , I found corrugated cardboard at a local art shop and the local teacher supply store has the borders for around chalk boards which are corrugated, never thought about cutting out the middleman

Good start on the train engine.
You could go any direction with it now, steampunk, dieselpunk, cyberpunk...? What will it be? It'll be cool for a start.

 Theophony wrote:
I never even thought of looking for a paper crinkler , I found corrugated cardboard at a local art shop and the local teacher supply store has the borders for around chalk boards which are corrugated, never thought about cutting out the middleman

Scrap booking places, or craft stores like Michaels, carry sheets of corrugated paper for ~$1-$2.

https://www.hobbylobby.com/Scrapbook-Paper-Crafts/Paper-Cardstock/Cardstock-Single-Sheets/Corrugated-Cardboard-Scrapbook-Paper---12-x-12/p/TB7560-111173

At that price doing it yourself seems to not be cost effective. Unless you want it to have no backing at all.

It's a neat tool, but doesn't seem time/money cost effective.

 Maniac_nmt wrote:

 Theophony wrote:
I never even thought of looking for a paper crinkler , I found corrugated cardboard at a local art shop and the local teacher supply store has the borders for around chalk boards which are corrugated, never thought about cutting out the middleman

Scrap booking places, or craft stores like Michaels, carry sheets of corrugated paper for ~$1-$2.

https://www.hobbylobby.com/Scrapbook-Paper-Crafts/Paper-Cardstock/Cardstock-Single-Sheets/Corrugated-Cardboard-Scrapbook-Paper---12-x-12/p/TB7560-111173

At that price doing it yourself seems to not be cost effective. Unless you want it to have no backing at all.

It's a neat tool, but doesn't seem time/money cost effective.

That’s what I was thinking, but maybe it does other items besides car stock, like green stuff.

Engine is looking good, and a nice haul from greenstuffworld. I always find so much interesting stuff on their website....

Thank you guys.

Started playing about with an old piece of rubbish, see if I can't make it look tidy enough for a pumping station gone Khorne....




@ Maniac_nmt, I agree bud, probably easier on the glue front too, but and I think this is the big but...

You can corrugate coke cans, free real metal corrugated steel!

And got these for £1 at Tesco...

Bbreaks down to...

Rotor blades!

Gubbins/ granade type thingy...

And lots of coil over shocks...

that will actually work....i hope.

Anyways, thanks for looking.

You are an amazing scrounger Cam. Very creative!

Well done! I'm impressed that the crimper can handle soda can metal- I may invest in one myself, now, for trench pieces!

I've had a bunch of pens come in as bits for various advertising sellers and whatnot, broke them down, but the only pieces I saw a for-sure use for were the springs and rods- for shocks, like you pointed out. Now I've got ideas from you for a whole lot more to do with the other bits!

The use of material around you is pheeeeennnnoooominal.

In america you could build a steel wall out of coke cans... so many...

A pumping station gone khnorey.. sounds delicious. Not really. But i want to support you with non linear comments.

Wow! Those boggy wheels look great! Looks like they came out a lot better than my cart wheels, I may need to pick your brain for advice in the future

Love the propeller idea , remember Khorne doesn’t care where the blood flows from as long as it flows.

Love where your strange brain goes

Reminds me of the old saying "One man's trash is definitely something Cam could make into some cool terrain". At least I'm pretty sure that's how it goes.

The 'ashtray' would be a perfect smokestack for the locomotive.

I always love the creative use of random bits in here

That corrugating machine tickles me in ways it wasn't designed to.

How many YouTube channels has Cam had a hand in supplying with terrain or models now?

+1 from me..

Rotor Blades. Very good.

The spring devices... I've always wondered how well that sort of plastic takes to glue. It has always seemed not glue-able.

A New Zealander who builds excellent terrain, Bugbait_NZ, has one of those crimpers. I've seen him do that with metal too.. He used to post on the Infinity forum, and before that Warseer.

Nice work.

Yep, I have a large collection of old pens pulled apart for bits and have always intended to make some working suspension for a vehicle.

Red'; that sort of plastic seems to glue fine with superglue. Some of the internal bits can need pinning or multiple attachment points though.

And there's always epoxy glue for when you really want something to stay put.

Funny I see pens, Cam sees bits, gubbins, piping and shock absorbers.

Choo Choo

Ivor's grimdark cousin?

Cam, reminding us all why he is a legend of the LOER.

In the grim darklness of the far future, there are only rivets! Nice work cam

IT issues.

Awesome.

Thanks Gits...

OK IRL....


Now bit of work done....




This is an example of me laying down loads of paint and washes and sprinkling in Bi-Carb. I also wanted to show one of my speed drying methods, just an ordinary lamp with a 150W spot bulb in it, generates enough heat to melt plastic if you are not careful, but is brilliant at drying out washes and paint quickly, especially when you don't want to disturb the paint too much like if you blow dry it.

Thank you so much for looking and sticking around, sorry the content has slipped a bit and I am struggling to post on your blogs at the mo. Please keep your thoughts coming, I will be back soon promise.

Honestly... drying paint fast sounds like the right idea... but I have butter, bread and cheese....

well yeah... i am going to toast me a grilled cheese right there.

Also if there were safety ratings you clearly read them and decided your life is in the danger zone.

Keep it toasty cam.

That train is looking great, and so is that terrain piece. There's always so much cool stuff to see on your blogs.