Rawson wrote:

dsteingass wrote:Gee Vik....Thanks

That's like saying "I forgot to tell you who your real father is"

Oh so sigged!

Hello Rawson done those rough rider yet no but I should


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dsteingass wrote:No..It's not rubber, it's...gelatin..instamold. It's toast when it dries out and cracks. My town doesn't seem to have any 2-part rubber stuff.

That will explain why then mate

dsteingass wrote:
No..It's not rubber, it's...gelatin..instamold. It's toast when it dries out and cracks. My town doesn't seem to have any 2-part rubber stuff.

hmmm.... my granddad always told me to use the right tool for the right job...hmmm...

Viktor von Domm wrote:

dsteingass wrote:
No..It's not rubber, it's...gelatin..instamold. It's toast when it dries out and cracks. My town doesn't seem to have any 2-part rubber stuff.

hmmm.... my granddad always told me to use the right tool for the right job...hmmm...

Yes my granddad said that too, usaully meant the tool he could get to do his work for him, crafty bastard he is but you got love him for it .

you can´t beat expiereince...not even with a long stick^^

Dave, the gelatine moulds are the problem. if your wanting to have "throw away moulds" use something like Alginate, which is made from seaweed and dries out and shrinks so you have to be quick with it (when i say quick i mean less than a day), if you want a permanent mould then I suggest looking at the products here: http://www.tiranti.co.uk/subcategory_list.asp?Content=Mouldmaking&Category=9 I know its a UK based company, but it is an extremely detailed site so will give you plenty of options to look at something to order closer to home.

Personally I suggest the T20 silicone rubber on that site, as it gives the best moulds for what you want it for.


anywho hope that helps ^_^




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oh and LDD, no sorry I don't have any pics :/

never really thought about that until now lols

I know..relax, this is not meant to be permanent, it's meant to be a learning experience with what I could get.


purple Resin poured, I can't touch them now for 24 hours.

darn...this is better´n the tv show 24...lol

lol you want to watch it for 24 and tell me when to demold? lol

Vik'd love that

better then watching kiefer sutherland any time of the week! can´t stand that man...

Viktor von Domm wrote:better then watching kiefer sutherland any time of the week! can´t stand that man...

Lost Boys, Young Guns... come now Vic

ok...granted......how come you can know the films i actually liked with him??? but when did his career get so bloddy awful? i mean he gets high praise but i can´t see him anymore...

oh and flatliners...but only just...

Phew, made it.

Ummm....forgotten what I saw...

There was ...a...tower... yes, a tower. Shaped like a 'T' it was.

Rivets..... there were rivets in there somewhere. I remember that.


Cogs...that was it.. there were cogs-a-plenty too.


Seriously man, I even used thread filter for a while...there was still a ton of posts to wade through


Base looks mighty interesting, look forward to seing the first test casts.

Is that clear resin in the green moulds?

OMG Monkey...You really caught up with the whole thing? LOL wow man!

Yeah clear with transparent dye- they didn't have anything other than clear. It'll only drive me nuts until it gets primed...later in the week

Hey Michael... how do you like them maggots?

I thought maybe you were trying something interesting with clear panels Paint part of it, leave 'windows' clear, or a transparent holdong cell, you know, something like that...




Holding, that says holding!!

Just imagine the 'i' got fat eating loads of cookies so he could make some nice terrain

LOL, nope Monkey- I am just learning this stuff.


Iron Man is going to be a seam-filling nightmare, but will look pretty badass when it is done methinks.

Wowzers Dave, where did you get that Iron-man from?

It's the new Moebius 1:8 kit- I have to build it and write a review of the kit for IPMS.

Sounds fun, those gaps look horrendous tbh

Most of them are supposed to be there, armor panel lines, but then there are others...It's hard to tell which are which.

from what I can see, theres a big one on the torso side, where the ribs are. but also the leading leg on the upper part of the thigh facing the camera direct. Although maybe I'm not seeing things properly lols... my eyesight is shot at 3am and I'm high off glue fumes

Nope, the thigh is supposed to look like that

oooooooooooooooooooooooo fair enough... blame the glue

1. exited to see how these molds turn out!
2. SPAAACE DWARVES!!!!!
3. Cool Iron Man

Hmm, I wonder if I could perhaps create something worthy of the =L=...
I could rivet this up more, etc. It even has gears in the back (note the rivets on the front, which are made out of cut up beads i found for about $3 for about 1,000, or something. I will certainly make more rivets, on the wood panels, and such)

Apologies for the threadjacking, I just love rivets! (I even made a pin with a tube rivet running through the main piece, a gear, and ending at a riveted orky skull, in a metalsmithing class (that's right; real rivets! also, multiple parenthesis! (parentheses?)))

sounds tasty, and i like what your going on with this thing, makes me think of those suicide Gekkos from MGS4.. oh plus you have 2 great qualifications.. you play IG, and your from PA

lone dirty dog wrote:Hello Rawson done those rough rider yet no but I should

Well, recently I've been working on my... wait.... which thread is this again?

Rawson wrote:

lone dirty dog wrote:Hello Rawson done those rough rider yet no but I should

Well, recently I've been working on my... wait.... which thread is this again?

Who knows anymore

Dave how is the setting going

I think my resin has gone bad it seems to have separated

That is loking pretty cool Glom! Show us some extraordinary riveting!

I don't know LDD- I can't touch them for 9 more hours ( I know, Math is hard )





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Viktor von Domm wrote:

hmmm.... my granddad always told me to use the right tool for the right job...hmmm...

You dear old granddad was teaching you not to use the side of a wrench or pliers to drive a nail - He didn't know anything about mold-making and casting.




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Ahhh Sundays...I love em..>Except for the laundry distractions and what-not, still...A day off work! A BLESSED day off work!

What to do with it????


The Painting bench is over- full

OR????


I do believe these two textures will work perfectly seperated by some imposing masonry edging

You dear old granddad was teaching you not to use the side of a wrench or pliers to drive a nail - He didn't know anything about mold-making and casting.

how did yoiu know? how did you know???? were you there? i am troubled...shaken to the very core of my...ok not that much but...to the letter dave!!! the very letter! man you and my granddad had to be buddies...or there are granddads all over the world talking the same gibberish and old tales all over ...

lol

as for the ironman...you had that coming i think you know...needs rivets...so deperatly needs rivets^^ ...

you are a lucky and soon sore guy for all the gapfilling then... was assembly easy? does that report need painting it too? and if so...will you keep true to the original art or do your own thing? i always liked the white red iron man suit best...

as for the columns...i am watching that space here to see where this is heading...


seeing the timestamp...only six hours to go now^^

Oh, I have thought of Rivets...but alas this is a new kit, so I need to get the review done on a deadline, re-pop kits I have longer...Like the cobblestone streets They are 1/35 miniart scenery kits, SO I can use them anyway I see fit

Well, what is this going to be then come on give us a clue I like the cobblestone section not bad I gather it's a vac formed plastic sheet

Those cate decorations 3 sizes was there a reason for that or just a case of they had 3 sizes so you bought them all


Plus I dont know if it is stuck down or meant to be but the skull wings on the large column looks to be of set, I only mention this as the other 2 seem to be centralised

so this means you get to keep the iron man too? but you have to finish him soon?...well then you can try later on to add some pins for riveting it up when it is all done...or does the contract also involve painting it? ...well pins can be added even postpainted...

the cobblestone streets

showed them to us already you have? (i love my yoda talk^^) uff -.- looked back and found it^^

Viktor von Domm wrote:so this means you get to keep the iron man too? but you have to finish him soon?...well then you can try later on to add some pins for riveting it up when it is all done...or does the contract also involve painting it? ...well pins can be added even postpainted...

the cobblestone streets

showed them to us already you have? (i love my yoda talk^^) uff -.- looked back and found it^^

YOU WENT BACK ! YOU NEVER GO BACK !!!

well...i had that slight need of flashback need^^

Yes, it needs painted. If I were using proper time management skills, I would be working on painting him...but it's the weekend and all

It's actually styrene, but appears to have been vacu-molded yes

@LDD- they aren't glued on yet


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NOW they are glued on


Along with some rivets


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those columns look aawsome!

Thanks Rogue!

So sweeeet, me Presciosusss!

Columns look great with the added Rivets and emblems some how updates them

Interesting take on riveting there with the Imperial symbols on it.
Makes for more Industrialized dystopia setting there.

er...mate... spotted some moldlines still on them... by the way... whre would one get these anyways? i never saw that stuff in any shops i went...


and i wasn´t thinking you´d riveted them up...but that you did...

but that means they need not to be done in marble look but a steely look!

Yes Vik...the lines were all filed away -They are intended for cake decorating I think .

Those columns are available in the cake decorwting isle at you favorite department store. I am assuming that Dave hit up WalMart for them......

But that is just a guess.....

Everyone loves Wall-Mart... apart from us english people... who have ASDA, which happens to be owned by Wall-Mart, and well... isn't as good :(

cake decorations... well that is interesting....and needs to be investigated...^^


i know that question makes me look noobish again... but why is there a washer in the mouldmaking frame?

Unearthly, Wal-Mart is an evil thing.

It's better than anything we have here in the Uk




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Daaaaaaaavvvvveeeeeeeeeeee...

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Hehehehe

The only thing worth a gak was those cast from Galorn's, PROPERLY made rubber mold.

FAIL FAIL FAIL





Instamold sucks, don't buy any, ever


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This has been a waste of fething time.

hmmm.... say...maybe you could prime all that stuff and then you could decide if gapfilling would be worth the hustle? after that you know for sure if it was a waste of time...

damn... that is a nasty outcome of the weekend...but don´t let yourself get down by the events...!

nothing is a waste of time dave... It's a learning curve, thats all

that comment was on my tongue as well...but actually after something like that you feel as been cheated by the universe...

I know Vik, Been there plenty of times myself. But I have to remind myself constantly that it isn't failure, just a lesson the had to be learned on the road to finding the best possible way to do it.

And being a Depressive who see's the negative in everything, I had to push myself to think that way... which took a lot. but yeah, I've had ballsed up moulds that just were terrible, along with taking alginate casts that just ripped to bits when pealing them away.

In the end you haven't failed, just learned a thousand ways to never do it again

at least I have the box-making and 2-part molding figured out, I just need to use proper stuff.

As I said before Dave, try using T20 silicone rubber for moulding with. works a treat

AnUnearthlyChilde wrote:I know Vik, Been there plenty of times myself. But I have to remind myself constantly that it isn't failure, just a lesson the had to be learned on the road to finding the best possible way to do it.

And being a Depressive who see's the negative in everything, I had to push myself to think that way... which took a lot. but yeah, I've had ballsed up moulds that just were terrible, along with taking alginate casts that just ripped to bits when pealing them away.

In the end you haven't failed, just learned a thousand ways to never do it again

yes! that is the spirit!

dsteingass wrote:at least I have the box-making and 2-part molding figured out, I just need to use proper stuff.

and that is the ticket!

mates... i call it a night... easter holidays are finally over...tomorrow at 6:30 the usual ugly worklife starts anew...well for my wife atm but i still have to get out of bed^^

cheerio!!!

Night Vik

Nite Vik


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nope, I'm only going to use OOMOO stuff- I'm about to order some.

Oomoo is the best way to go, many of its products are self degassing. Don't through away any failed oomoo molds, you can dice them into tiny bitz and use the bitz as mold filler (around %10-%15).

OOMOO???

Which of their 10,000 products do I want?

OOMOO 30 from what I've just looked up, as it's high strength with little to no tear value to it.

Has anyone used OOMOO Sooth-cast 300 liquid plastic? if so whats your thoughts?

Indepth mold making tutorials with photos and hints ahead.

Mold making, smooth on 25
http://warfrog.blogspot.com/2011/11/two-part-mold-making-tutorial-resin.html

Resin casting
either Smooth cast 305 or 65D (which is what Forgeworld uses)
http://warfrog.blogspot.com/2011/11/resin-casting-tutorial.html

Bummer Dave. Trail and error are a frustrating part of any new endeavour! Kudos for trying and I love the cake columns. They are used for multi level cakes. Also a standard 25mm base fits perfectly in the top hole.

I can't use 305 due to needing a degasser... and I don't have a spare £500 lols

So i'd have to use 300 or smooth-cast onyx fast.


Also, does anyone know how far 0.9kg goes for casting with?

I don't degass my 305


this was poured with out degassing

Heh, fair enough... V-useful blogs cheers for those, they will be very helpfull when I sculpt and cast my mycetic spore pod.




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You don't have any air bubble problems with the 305??

very few bubble issues most are avoided by powdering the mold with talc powder. Also I use a syringe to inject and to pull resin through the mold usually gets most bubbles out. You can't degass 305 under most circumstances because it will start to boil and then it hardens and becomes very porous/brittle. Its designed to be very thin and to self degass most resins that get degassed have a much longer set time.

Fair enough, thanks again for the helpful info!!! This is going to be very hand as I said ^_^

@ Childe.

They are very close to the size of the space marine drop pods.

Also pics of most of my bug hoard are on this post
http://warfrog.blogspot.com/2011/11/hoarding-tyranids.html

It is said in prophecy of old that I will die when the last one is painted.

lmfao... I just started my Hive fleet (see my sig)

I like the chapterhouse ones, but, I want my own to look like the one in the 5th ed codex, which has the 'fex being "birthed" from it.

What is the difference between 305 and 320?

setting time and consistency.

320 is gonna set up real fast. a 3min pot life barely leaves time to mix and pour in my opinion.

Also... Dave, your buying a GALLON OF THE STUFF??? WTF??? you have more money than sense

I used "Mold Star 25" to make my molds. Similar to the OOmOO stuff. Also doesn't need degassing.

Hey dave! Sorry to read bout the moulds arsing up - must be insanely frustrating. Not sure I'd have the patience (or space!) for mouldmaking myself, but impressed that you're still powering ahead. It does seem to be the next step forward for people who create a lot of original stuff, so I'm sure it'll be worth the effort!

Realise it wouldn't work for complex stuff like what you're casting, but in case you haven't heard of it, instantmold is ace for press moulding. Could save you some time for little things!

Dave nothing I can say can take away your loss a project gone bad is a real annoyance especially after the amount of time invested.

However take away from it what you have learnt and proceed to achieve greater things.

Now stop moaning and get back to it LOL


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AnUnearthlyChilde wrote:Heh, fair enough... V-useful blogs cheers for those, they will be very helpfull when I sculpt and cast my mycetic spore pod.




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You don't have any air bubble problems with the 305??

Where do you get this product in the UK sick of using the resin I have as I wanted something more along the lines of that finish.

If you know please share

Scarper wrote:
Realise it wouldn't work for complex stuff like what you're casting, but in case you haven't heard of it, instantmold is ace for press moulding. Could save you some time for little things!

Thanks man, but I WAS using instamold here. Even the pressmolds were more bubbly than champagne, and It REALLY didn't work for a 2-part. The only good news is that I don't have to rebuild the LEGO boxes

@Childe I haven't ordered anything yet, but you may have missed the "I CAN'T GET IT LOCALLY" part. What would you suggest? I order just enough to half-ass something and run out mid-mold?


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@Unicorn, thanks for the super-useful tips man, I appreciate it. It appears I have most of the techniques down, I was just using the wrong stuff.

Insantmold is a different product! It's some rubbery stuff you put in boiling water to go soft then just press onto things. You didn't use instamold because of me did you? :O

I'm really sorry!

theunicorn wrote:320 is gonna set up real fast. a 3min pot life barely leaves time to mix and pour in my opinion.

Sorry had to do it

LOOOOOOLL

the crossed eyes are by far the best detail...on second thought that tongue too^^

Viktor von Domm wrote:LOOOOOOLL

the crossed eyes are by far the best detail...on second thought that tongue too^^

Great aint it I found it the other day and was waiting for a time to use it, I could wait no longer

lol... i know that feeling... it was the same for me with the facepalm one i showed with tomy lee jones earlier on...^^ (dunno which thread tho^^)

Yeah Scarper...I'm just used to everyone misspelling things and assumed you meant instamold (since my local store carried it)
$20 wasted.....meh...I guess I've wasted more money on lesser things before....

..edited my whiney bitching out of this post.

@ LDD


here you go


http://shop.shopatcuretime.co.uk/Smooth-Cast-300-09Kg

You can find OOMOO 30 there as well.

I'm really sorry man, I feel terrible. Didn't realise instamold was even a product :(
Don't let people force you into doing stuff you don't want to do, man. If you don't enjoy the moulding stuff, sod it and get back to the stuff you do like! No one on the internet really matters anyway (unless they're inadvertently recommending terrible products that is )

dave...pmed you...i am soon off...but would be nice to hear your thoughts about my thoughts...

keep well mate...and if you threaten to fall apart on this one...you know...what plastic glue dosn´t solve...there is always super glue for

PM returned. Thanks buddy, always appreciated.


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@scarper- yeah, it behaves like a 1:1 rubber mold, but it is temporary, when it dries out it is no good anymore. Not your fault that I assumed man. I wouldn't mind having something around for pressmolding little bits like the aquillas.

Dave,

I PM'd you, I need to start reading all of the thread before responding to it!

I got the Smooth-On starter Kit, it has the 3 minute pot life resin, but to get used to it, it's not a bad way to go. And it's really not that hard to mix it and pour it in that time, unless you are going for a big pour. I am planning on getting the longer set time resin soon, but the quick stuff is ok.

I would definately go with 2 part molds, even with the bases, because you can use a syringe, and force the resin in. Works much better than pouring. You don't always have to use the clay for 2 parters either, you can just do one big pour with vents, and cut the mold to get the original and copies out. It works well.

Let me know if you have any questions, as since I'm just learning the trade myself, I have recent experience in the trials and errors department!

(meh don't bother reading, a lot of gak from Childe and LDD in there
Yeah, I didn't need the clay method- I marked the colums at the halfway point and poured, but my vents should have been at the bottom base of the column, curving up instead of at the top-

That is an easy fix though. Because there are no little bits, I thought injecting would be unnecessary with this shape, but my problem was with the instamold gak.

Yeah, I generally skip over their posts...especially when they post pics.

I kid, I have them filtered out altogether! LOL!


yeah, those are bigger than I thought at first, injecting would be difficult unless you had a HUGE syringe!

The good part about the fast cure resin though, is just that. You can take them out of the mold in like 15 to 20 minutes!

Lots less wait time!

BAD DAVE... It's not *all* Gak

Btw, which OOMOO Product did you go with in the end ???

I didn't ...I am following the trend of unchecked, unsustainable American Capitalism and outsourcing the molding instead!

I just don't know enough about what I am doing yet to make that kind of investment. It's too much risk. I've spent the past 10 years investing in my workshop tools and materials (and building my scratchbuilding skill) little by little. My comparative advantage is in the design process because I have the advantage of a lower marginal cost when it comes to the design process. I am not ready to go into business...YET.

Fair enough, a very sensible look at things tbh.

Me on the other hand, trial by error, the pains of being an artist I guess lols. I can't help but try new things, even if it fails... which in hindsight is probably stupid because I'm unemployed lols... But from what I've learned from mould making, I think I'm safe enough to try OOMOO silicone. as it's cheaper than the higher grade Silicone I'll be using once I get the job I want.

outsourcing the molding instead

that is a very wise man decision!!!

and always good to see you on track again!!!

at jake...

Yeah, I generally skip over their posts...especially when they post pics.

that reminds me somehow of porn...and i dunno why...

Well, if the pictures that LDD usually posts reminds you of porn...I have some bad news for you.

LOL...well that stuff has lots of varieties...

AnUnearthlyChilde wrote:@ LDD


here you go


http://shop.shopatcuretime.co.uk/Smooth-Cast-300-09Kg

You can find OOMOO 30 there as well.

Cheers for the info will check that out

Will you lot stop giving me gak about pictures I have not posted anything bad for ages nope nothing offences at least

that is true... but as your past time offences raised/lowered the stakes so much the effect still lasts so long

TBH, it's usually RW that posts Gak... I hardly ever post things

riiight.... Childe, I usually read your posts with Jeremy Clarkson's voice (from Top Gear) in my mind LOL

I'm just ribbing you guys. You do contribute to the silliness, but we all do. You guys just have a reputation for it!

true...you hardly ever post anything...

I'll take that as a compliment Dave... bear in mind I don't have Clarkson's permed hair, as I'm completely bald

AnUnearthlyChilde wrote:I'll take that as a compliment Dave... bear in mind I don't have Clarkson's permed hair, as I'm completely bald

Yes you do I have seen you

I like how he says whatever he wants without caring what anyone thinks of it.

O_o Who are you?

AnUnearthlyChilde wrote:O_o Who are you?

watching ha hah ha ha ha ha ha …… dam I am starting to sound like RW

huh?

The coulums are looking cool man! Unlucky on the privous molding failer!

Thanks Hazzer! Plan B is now in effect, they will be duplicated one way or another! (I hope so, I used all my little plastic aquilla bits on them!)


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..look on the bright side, at least it didn't ruin the masters

hey dave... if you are that short on aquillas... i know for sure that i still have soe... tho not all the designs you shown here... if you need i be there^^ or rather them^^

ah, the ever elusive aquillas

Primetime

Iron Man appears to about the right scale for Liberty Prime!

But now I can actually SEE all the cracks that need filled, so he still has work to do.

NCIS is more riveting.... geddit? riveting? ah sod you all

AnUnearthlyChilde wrote:NCIS is more riveting.... geddit? riveting? ah sod you all

Well, if you can't wait for a posted reply AnUnerathly, why bother posting?

yeah i see that iron man will provide plenty of painting fun for you...but it actually looks better imho then liberty prime

hopefully you get the job done quick with the gapfilling...

Twas sarcasm Shas

I kind of think it looks cool white Is that primmer still wet as it looks kind shiny

Yeah, it shouldn't take too long, I gotta be careful my fat finger doesn't get putty into armor panel lines and cracks that are supposed to be there.


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..Just cleaned the ol' 150 and took the pic LDD- quite wet. But the Vallejo AB primer is the best primer I've ever used, hands down!

dsteingass wrote:Yeah, it shouldn't take too long, I gotta be careful my fat finger doesn't get putty into armor panel lines and cracks that are supposed to be there.


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..Just cleaned the ol' 150 and took the pic LDD- quite wet. But the Vallejo AB primer is the best primer I've ever used, hands down!

Might be worth an investment then what other colours do the primers come in after all most of my purchases lately have been on your recommendations, although will pass on the moulding material

smartass!
A bunch
http://www.acrylicosvallejo.com/gb/index.html

I got these

But haven't tried them yet- I use white for figs.

Dam just had a quick look at their site not bad for primers some choice indeed, dam another purchase on its way

I always use black primer but on a few occasion I could have done using white, the colour was a pain in the arse to get right over the black.

they even have german labels...lol...

any paint with the word Dunkel in it, is a paint for me!

well...for some reason dave baught this one twice..???

tho that dunklegelb looks frightingly green to me...

You guys

Those are RAL colors- mil-spec matched to historic paints.

^ i assumed that it was historical based, thats why i bought my camo piants from Vallejo, got a better selection then gw

AnUnearthlyChilde wrote:Twas sarcasm Shas

Which usually fails on the net



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Oh and yeah, dunkelbrau does it for me

I never understood why people limit themselves to only one paint mfr. Soo many good ones out there, most are a bettrer value than GW paints too.

vallejo was cheaper, had more, and came in a nice dropper bottle!

I was also finding these acrylics at Michael's for 1.99 or 2.99 and they were tall bottles fo 2-3 times the volume of GW paints.

^those can be good at times, but be carefull some of the cheap paints can be crap, which is why im forced to buying gw again, (luckily i found a hobby shop with vallejo paints, and a bunch of other company paints too though)

I only use GW ones because I know their texture/consistency and blending capibilities.

It's like when I do paintings, I only use windsor and newton, because I know them and trust their ability to do what I want. Sure there's cheaper out there... but I still go with what I know

putty, sanding, more primer. Not perfect, but better.

thats a sweet model, and it even has the swagger of Robert in there!

^ THAT!

Yeah, but Downey has gotten a bit too tubby to fit into that suit lately

lol thats alright, if he made the suit more than a couple times, im sure he can make some simple resizing, just slice the suit in half, and fill in the space with the elastic they use fore pregnant women pants!

He just tells the robot factory to make it...and it does...Oh If I could have Stark equipment like that to build any components I wished....

No, he tells Jervis to build it according to his biometric data

Ok, so after 2 very light coats of Nuka Cola Red, I added two drops of black and about 4 drops of turn signal red (for the metal flake) ...


I'm afraid the metal flake doesn't show up well i nthe photo, it isn't overdone, but it is there, and catches micro-glimmers of light

BUT..>This is the first time I've had the balls to mix colors...in the color cup of the ab!

dsteingass wrote:I never understood why people limit themselves to only one paint mfr. Soo many good ones out there, most are a bettrer value than GW paints too.

This is very true. Most of my terrain stuf is painted with either "abble barrel" "ceramcoat" "folk art" or "Liquitex" brand paints.

dsteingass wrote:I never understood why people limit themselves to only one paint mfr. Soo many good ones out there, most are a bettrer value than GW paints too.

See above comment

Rogue Wolves wrote:vallejo was cheaper, had more, and came in a nice dropper bottle!

Just don't lick the brush after using vallejo reds... (involves a fairly non sanitary ingredient. not toxic, just gross)

shasolenzabi wrote:I was also finding these acrylics at Michael's for 1.99 or 2.99 and they were tall bottles fo 2-3 times the volume of GW paints.

See my first comment above ^

Rogue Wolves wrote:^those can be good at times, but be carefull some of the cheap paints can be crap, which is why im forced to buying gw again, (luckily i found a hobby shop with vallejo paints, and a bunch of other company paints too though)

Yep thinning them to run through my AB is an adventure. (I've found the best thinner to use with the afre mentioned paint is simple tap water.

AnUnearthlyChilde wrote:I only use GW ones because I know their texture/consistency and blending capibilities.

It's like when I do paintings, I only use windsor and newton, because I know them and trust their ability to do what I want. Sure there's cheaper out there... but I still go with what I know

Fair enough.

dsteingass wrote:He just tells the robot factory to make it...and it does...Oh If I could have Stark equipment like that to build any components I wished....

Likewise.


PM responded to, Sorry about the delay. between Easter, PAX east, prepping for Adepticon, and Work my brain is a little mushy at the moment.

Maybe the white bg helps...


It's cool Galorn! Rest up if you've got another con this weekend! We'll do business next week


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In other news....

Pics of the rivet-plate method primed

those bases are ace dave! and im loving that iron man, that is just the perfect red for him!

Wow Dave, I know I have been busy lately and unable to post or work on models at all but you, my friend are rocking it out making me feel lazy......


Ok, I am sufficiently shamed back to work......


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Really good to see you painting again, too bro......

dsteingass wrote:Primetime

Iron Man appears to about the right scale for Liberty Prime!

But now I can actually SEE all the cracks that need filled, so he still has work to do.

He's definitely got a bit of a camp thing going on in this pose, doesn't he?

The red is great you can see the effect coming through good find and great use really nice finish muteies primed and ready for a coat of paint then

It's looking good Dave! the bases are top flight in my book! And use of iron Man as Liberty Prime is awesome.

Thanks guys!- I am a procrastinator, so I need to get Iron Man painted and get this review written up, then I'll probably get busy painting the Fallout figs.


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...If anyone in the US is interested in joining IPMS-USA and being on this Reviewer's Corps team with me..PM me. The cost is only $25/year to join IPMS-USA, every month we get a list of kits (and PE brass sets) to pick from for free. The old guys usually compete for historic airplane and ship kits, but occasionally there are book and magazine reviews (I missed out on the Steampunk Modeller book sadly) that need done. You are never FORCED to take a kit, if you don't have the time to build it, but $25 pays for itself quickly in kits , and you get a magazine (The IPMS Journal) every 2 months that rivals most commercial modeling magazines (and you can get published in it!) However, you really must be able to write decently (skill level of an average college paper).

Other countries have their own IPMS club, and I can always ask for a contact person in your area.

We gotta keep you on your toes!

Hmmm, I am going to online school for communications, I just hate having to follow some of the APA guidelines such as the first page or headers I always get dinged on. But I always pass the plagiarism checker as I do cite, and hate simple copy-pasta for my work. I do like to make my own words based off the information at hand.

LOL, oh no, you only need to follow the review template, no citing or any of that scholastic stuff is needed. Usually just a few paragraphs are enough)

There are usually tank kits on the list Shas!

dsteingass wrote:LOL, oh no, you only need to follow the review template, no citing or any of that scholastic stuff is needed. Usually just a few paragraphs are enough)

There are usually tank kits on the list Shas!

Say what?



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Ya know I loves me some tank!

PM sent shas, look at it, and tell me that isn't worth $25/month!


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Anyone can view the kit review section of the website, you can see how the reviews are structured, quite simply really.
http://web.ipmsusa3.org/

that white BG really helped to show your work better.. the red is a really good one...and the shiney effect is now sown up in front of the white...

it seems we european krauts are yet again behind the moon when it comes to such nice things as those review doings... although i saw it is possible to become a member to the imps and get the magazine i think i didn´t found the way to get my hands into some testings too... *looks sullen*

but i can always join in on the fun seeing your stuff dave^^

Thanks Vik,
Well, you have to join IPMS first, then contact whoever in your local chapter or whatever who organizes the reviewer Corps. IPMS-USA is actively looking for more reviewers because we are getting more kits than people can take.

hmmm... i think i need to get that info in suitable not too chunky bitz to swallow for my dear beloved wife and treasurer... when i start work...(by the way...if not something like sunspots or eartquakes happen tomorrow, then i will tomorrow 14:00 CET sign my contract for work!!!) then i can join on my own...^^ and i think this is more than likley...it is for foreigners of the US 33$$ a year and six magazines...

To save me tripple posting, could you all give me your opinions on my paint scheme ideas on my Hive fleet thread please?

done^^

Wow Dave...

It's all looking so awesome and like Max said I feel like a slacker now...

What am I talking about... I am a procrastinator so I guess I am a slacker...


Oh! And you made me laugh when you talked about Clarkson.
Top Gear is one of my favorites!

Thanks Silver!

didi's magic black ink airbrushed into ALL the recesses

next: re-spray the red, then black out all the gold/silver areas by hand or try masking it...I dunno

looks interesting... like oil smeared all over...

This Vik, is essentially stolen from model airplane builders, they basecoat the wings, then spray the panel lines with black, then airbrush lightly over the top, and the pattern disperses enough, or you hold the ab farther away to allow most of the droplets to dry before they hit, leaving the black in the panel lines


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It's called Pre-Shading
http://www.ipmsstockholm.org/magazine/2001/01/stuff_eng_tech_panel_lines.htm

http://www.modelairplanebuilding.com/pre-shading.html

i see how this is needed then...by the way... will this iron man end up all crisp and shiney looking or what have yopu planned for him?

Hopefully Shiny and fresh, but maybe a little bit of weathering


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This is ideal..

well...i like my tony stark all battered and brusied^^

It has scrapes

CC'mon man..once I add 2-3 coats of clear gloss?? You're gonna like it

i am sure that i like it^^

i am atm waiting for the moment i can take a look at the avengers^^... been waiting for that movie for quite some time now...^^

LOL

"We have a Hulk."

Viktor von Domm wrote:well...i like my tony stark all battered and brusied^^

oh i can arrange that!

at RW...: you and what army?

Well my Catanid army and me of course....

FLY MY PRETTIES FLY!!!

rofl

LOL!

How about

http://www.youtube.com/watch?NR=1&feature=endscreen&v=OCyvVJjZX9U

especially at 1:44

Shas... you do realise I am the single biggest Doctor Who geek you will ever meet?

Yeah I loved the Genesis-Ark... imagine how many Nids you could fit in it

Sorry guys no updates tonight..I forgot we had tickets to go see Blue Man Group. It was pretty amazing!

Wondered why you had gone quiet Dave

*tuts* thats no excuse... Me, I'd have taken stuff with me to paint... you see, you just lack the dedication to the cause my friend

....they jam on PVC pipe!!

Hmmm.

David Tenent could whip Matt Smith's ass any day of the week....

Dave... Don't make me hit you... Matt Smith is awesome.

welp, good thing i dont watch this show then am i right!

ok then..Billie Piper is hawter than Karen Gillan!

TAKE THAT BACK DAVE, TAKE IT BACK RIGHT NOW!!!

Its a known fact redheads are hotter...

as a general rule, yes...but Billie....is too hawt for the rule.

I've seen her in her birthday suit... sorry... not all that ;P

You might want to google "Secret diary of a call girl"

oh...I am aware of her acting career

If by "acting" you mean pouting and being nakie all the time sure...

AnUnearthlyChilde wrote:Shas... you do realise I am the single biggest Doctor Who geek you will ever meet?

Yeah I loved the Genesis-Ark... imagine how many Nids you could fit in it

Every fan of a show feels that way. I used to hang out with the Dr. Who Fan club of America when I went in Klingon costume to cons. Made for some interesting mixes.

dsteingass wrote:ok then..Billie Piper is hawter than Karen Gillan!

sorry mates...but they don´t do both for me... somehow they lack a certain something...*ducks*

Hmmm there is something to be said for each of the girls.

at least the redheaded one looks sweet... i don´t like the false lips on the blonde...

Those aren't fake lips! ..>Anyways, if he doesn't know his own country's birds, then I dunno what to tell him

Dave love the iron man he's really comming together!

Thanks man- I'm going to tackle the gold parts tonight, lets hope I don't screw it up. With all the filling that needed done, there was no possible way to paint the parts before I assembled the model like the instructions suggested...I'd be interested to see someone build this kit per the instructions...

Hiho, good buddies. How goes the day? I am back and tired of missing out on the conversations so let's get it started this morning with a good discussion on something wierd, shall we?

ok, should I brush-paint the gold, or attempt to mask it?

I would say attempt to mask it. But only if you think you can without damaging any of the surrounding paint. When masking off skateboards for spray paint jobs I was never able to not get a cut line around the masking. I know this doesn't really equate to airbrushing but thats what I know.

I think, however that you could do it with the brushes jsut as good as with the airbrush. You are a good painter, after all....

I'd suggest masking, as brush painting will leave brush strokes which, after spending so much effort spraying the red, would detract from it imo.

What mag did you say you are reviewing this for?

IPMS-USA, this one won't be published in print though, so I'm not going whole hog on it, but I want to do it up well.

If you get brush strokes, you aren't thinning your paint and giving it multiple coats.

Spraying would get you a far cleaner gold imo. Have you looked into liquid masks?

I havea big jar of liquid mask, but I haven't really used it yet. do you think I can get the liquid mask off without hurting the red paint below it?

liquid mask from esperience usually peals off with no trouble tbh.

You just need to be patient, and put the liquid mask on in several, light coats right?

Dependss on the quality of the liquid mask and the spray paint. But, honestly I think yes....

I dont know tbh, but ive heard they work fine.

WOuld be interested to see the results, though i guess using it on a test model first would be a good idea!

I should be able to block the general area with tape, and then use the liquid mask to build the shape within that I hope. does that make sense?


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Yeah..you're right Vit..I am on a deadline as it is...I don't really have time to do a test model, and that IS the correct way to test a new technique......grrr

When ids the deadline?

Yeah that makes perfect sense!

Use the liquid mask to prevent tape bleed through/mask fiddly edges, i hear ya.

AnUnearthlyChilde wrote:I've seen her in her birthday suit... sorry... not all that ;P

You might want to google "Secret diary of a call girl"

I'm not seeing anything there to disagree with Dave about. But yes the Redhead looks good too.

Why do you have to choose? Why not like both?

Iron Man looking great Dave! I suggest spraying too, but only if you feel good about it. Either way you'll do a great job.

I don't think that that girl is very cute. I like gingers and all, but really? Her?


Jennie Weasley is prettier than her and still rather plain.....

I was just goading Childe into more of his rants His absolute, "I'm not listening to you because you're just wrong" comments amuse me

dsteingass wrote: His absolute, "I'm not listening to you because you're just wrong" comments amuse me

I like the "I could agree with you, but then we'd both be wrong" line of reasoning

Thats is a very good way of looking at a great many things, Rawson......

well, now to see the finished results

mxwllmdr wrote:I don't think that that girl is very cute. I like gingers and all, but really? Her?


Jennie Weasley is prettier than her and still rather plain.....

give that man a cigar!!!! i am totally with you!!!


as for the gold soon to happen... what about using child putty? you know...play dough and so on? also there is a tut here on masking with marmite...

i hope you show something soon... as the red looks very good now and i want to see it in contrast to the gold you have decided upon...! i cross fingers for you!

Yeah, the gold ought to look cool

Dave for the Gold!

Drumroll Pllluuueease.....






Obviously the base isn't done yet, and no gloss coats have been added...I'll have some touchup to do too.


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I definately think it needs weathered like this then...I just can't resist!

It.....is......Ironman!

LOL You were expecting Captain Zeitgeist and his powers of superhuman constipation?

Bad @$$, Dave. Bad @$$........

Thanks Max! I appreciate it bud!

that looks already awsome as hell...all scratched up i think i am gonna faint...

NICE!!!!!!

Now feth him up though, I want to see him scratched up like my granny after parking her car at the supermarket

like my granny after parking her car at the supermarket

LOOOOOLL

That is awesome my friend.

Definitely beat it up though.

THanks guys!

He has to be given his factory shine though, before I can weather him down a bit. I'm thinking the whole thing needs gloss-coated, then the paint chips and scrapes should be applied over that, giving it the flat metallic look? Don't you think it will look funny with gloss over top of the scrapes?

No.

*Looks shiftily at whoevers idea it was to paint scratches before gloss coating*



You gonna put any dust or mud on him? WHat about osl?

osl at least you should try for the eyes if not for the repulsors...^^

as for the scratches after gloss...hmmm... dunno...would that work? glossy scratches... hmmm... maybe this might not look too fishy as it is always a rather smallish structure so no real big surfaces...well depends on how beaten up you want ol tone to be looking...

I'm surprised the red wasn't done over gold (since you could have masked it then and that's how they did it for hot rods ), but I'm liking it none the less.

thats awsome!

n0t_u wrote:I'm surprised the red wasn't done over gold (since you could have masked it then and that's how they did it for hot rods ), but I'm liking it none the less.

actually i am now wondering that too...after all the masking of the then at first done metalic parts would have been easier...or not?

OSL would be cool, but I've never done it, and I'm not going to experiment with this kit...

Metallic paint sprayed through a .022mm ultrafine needle/nozzle is problematic enough on it's own. While my Badger Renegade Krome is capable of spraying lines smaller than a pencil lead with that needle, it causes a lot of clogging, to compensate, I had to open it up more and spray a wider pattern to get the metallic red on as it was. I probably could have installed the larger needle/nozzle and tried it, but it just wasn't practical.

The gold paint I used was Vallejo Game Color Polished Gold- the metal flakes in that are MUCH more courser-ground than they are in the airbrush specific paint, so spraying the gold wasn't going to work, as much as I wanted it to. If I had the same gold in the ab-specific paint, maybe...but I made do with what I had.

The really PROPER way to paint this kit would have been to paint the parts before assembly, but then the gaps could not be filled, and I wouldn't have been happy, so I approached the painting like I would a miniature, complete.

You keep forgetting that I just built this kit last weekend.





I procrastinated for so long, the deadline was fast-approaching and I really rushed the whole job.

PDG for a rush job.........




I think the chips and scratches should be after gloss coating, too. Makes sense.......

oh yeah, totally

Think it's looking awesome!
And I'm with you and Max that the weathering should be done after gloss.
Would make it look as if it were damaged after production instead of while on the line...

It just makes sence.

It's too bad paint takes so long to dry...

For sure!
It is the humbler for us rushers..

Wow! Looking good Dave!

I look forwards to seeing it once I am settled back in

Thanks Jake!

Shas, it'll be here for ya, although I can't promise you how many pages of gak back in the thread it will be by then


Fist light Gloss coat sprayed

You keep forgetting that I just built this kit last weekend.

no sir! we don´t do that... it is rather frightening how fast you came to that extent of progress mister...

by the way... is this unibeam repulsor on his chest getting some other color added to it then this pure white? just asking...

its looking great dave!

"by the way... is this unibeam repulsor on his chest getting some other color added to it then this pure white? just asking..."
i was wondering this as well

yeah... mabye some layeres of a blue wash and then a white drybrush and all is well^^

I don't think it glows blue with this set of armor, but yeah, I've thought about it...

^if it dosent glow blue than it might yellow, but i thought it was blue

hmmmm.... yellow then? just plain white i think would be not enough i think....


by the way... when you do your report i would like to read that... would like to see what you put in that...!

no..I think the MK VI armor just glows bright white- at least from all the pictures...Remember he fixed his problem that was killing him slowly.

the Mk VI had a blue glowing chest piece


<<< Massive comicbook geek

right right, i think you are right.. im going have to watch that movie agian

Yeah, this is the MK VI- as seen in the upcoming movie.

TAH-DAH!!!


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Dave my keyboard didnt register the "I" lols when I was typing

TAH-DAH!!!

well actually you can´t get all canon with marvel stuff as each artist did a new version of existing art... so you are always right and in the wrong too...


and dave... yeah...i think that was the case tho i didn´t recognize it as the movie armor...^^

well whatever you feel is needed i guess...^^


at childe...

Massive comicbook geek

who isn´t? i know for sure before the first xmen movie hit the theatres i was totally sucked in the stories of the whole marlvel universe and collected next to every issue each moth came out... it was a major drain on my income...but i just devoured these books^^

Then they haven't kept their continuity in check... he's wearing the same armour as Iron-man 2. so therefore it should glow the same colour :/

see above statement of mine...

Hmm in that movie pic i still think its blue. I tjust looks so bright and the saturation of the shot is whiting it out. At least imho.

The blue glow may just be something they add in post-production effects too- I think most of the leaked shots so far are white...


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hmmm...I can't tell

maybe they are distancing the colour differenciation of both Ironman and War machines eye and chest glow.

why the hell is my cat licking my ear?

O_o

@dave, that is a highly logical answer, since you wouldnt want to put lightbulbs infront of eyes or chest, would be quite hot, and being that ironman is a main character they would need the suit to be flexible and have some room for acting in..
@childe... te real question is why arnt you licking his/hers?

ok... then i would do as follows... grey it all up (the unibeam) and then work it up till off white in the very middle... that way a brighter effect should happen???

@RW. the suit fully lights up the same way the Tron suits did... no post production necessary. It's done with EL wire (Electro Luminescence) which has very little heat discharge and requires even less power. Both the Tron suits and Iron-man suits were radio controlled to activate their lighting. also, the Iron-man suit features a motorized sliding hatch for the face plate.

I know a lot about props production and manufacturing.

ahh makes sense, ^ this is why i'm more of an arts design and camera guy

I make props

^what the hell is wrong with you... you like the flyers, work in the video feild, and are a bit obsessed with cats... i've heard of long lost twins, but i have a twin, is this... a long lost TRIPLET????!??!

I said I make props lols... I don't work in TV or film... yet... but it's the dream...

and doubtful lols... I was born and raised in the crappiest Nid sphincter of a town imaginable

lol, dont worry there childe, i understand the dream ( which is kinda why i moved from Philly to LA area..) but currently the only job i've ever had, was working for my sister as part of the art department for some commercials for the US,French,and Aussie Tennis Opens, plus Wimbleton.. but really I've been thinking about exactly what job i want in film, now the original plan (im not saying this cause of you this is true ) was to go into props and such, as my passion for working on movies came from watching the LotR extended edition bts over and over and over agian... but im not sure... hmm

My inspiration was making things as a kid, like a chain axe and plasma pistol out of cardboard and brown tape... they were pretty well done too tbh. In recent years it's been push further with doctor who returning to the screen.

i guess this means im going to have to watch Dr.Who arnt I, as i have never watched his show

O_o





Never?



...




Get on it like a car bonnet!!!

before i do... that... what is a car bonnet?

The hood lols...


Americans *tuts*

Oh.. lol

I popped in the dvd and took screenshots

that looks blueish.. kinda like lightsaber center white though

Yeah they have reversed the colours, Iron-man has a blue chest piece and war machine yellow. the comics were the other way around IIRC :/

^which i think is a good thing, gives them each some color (iron man now being yelow red and blue, warmachine being grey, dark grey, and yellow)


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lol childe speak of the devil, my sister just called and she got a job doing art design on a hollywood movie (cant say what it is yet, but the script is funny as gak) and looks like im going to be able to work for her

Oh I'll one up you good sir


My friend who I was at uni with worked on Captain America... she did the doodles you see Cap drawing while on tour

^nice job there sir, (might i add that im working for free!?!?) is that one up ship or what... oh.. i guess not, well its hard doing a job you like doing, cause if to get it done i dont get paid, idc its not like i have any other jobs!

Tbh, so long as I get to do the job I've dreamed of, I don't care if I get paid in hobnobs (they are biscuits btw)

^agreed!

Grats Rogue!

danke sir, its not mooching off of someone elses success when its your sister right?

Not at all!

I think we are gonna call this one finished

the weathering on him looks great!

Thanks Rogue! It was very hard to keep it light

Nice, too bad you couldn't make it glow but better to not try it out on something you don't want to accidentally wreck.

NICE, good work dude. Yeah that's just enough weathering.

Very well done, dude. I am in awe at your skill......



As Par usual......

yup...we can call this one finished for sure... looks splendid! i have to ask again...will the model stay in your hands ?

also...just took a look again...and the base looks lovley too!!! it is so easy with all this fine weathering to overlook such things as a good painted base!

at RW...:
congratz mate! be sure to get that work, whatever it may be in your CV!!! you never know who is reading that one day and what may lead to new stuff!!!

Wow, that's great Iron Man! Nicely done, dude!

Thanks guys!

Yep Vik, it's all mine