Switch Theme:

BLACKHAND'S General Casting Tutorial  [RSS] Share on facebook Share on Twitter Submit to Reddit
»
Author Message
Advert


Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you:
  • No adverts like this in the forums anymore.
  • Times and dates in your local timezone.
  • Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance.
  • Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely.
  • Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net.
If you are already a member then feel free to login now.




Made in ca
Mekboy Hammerin' Somethin'






aerethan wrote:
To remove the mold, disassemble your legos until the mold is sitting on the glass alone. Then, flip the glass over and carefully pull one corner of the mold off until you can see it start to let go thru the glass. Do this in small sections and slowly so that you don't tear the mold.



Would this part of the process be made easier by a quick shot of mold release on the glass and masters, or would that affect the mold compound differently than it does resin?

   
Made in us
Slaanesh Chosen Marine Riding a Fiend





Gurnee, IL

aerethan wrote:





There's allot of wasted silicon in that mold. A centimeter spacing between the parts and the sides of the mold box is plenty for minatures. When I make open face molds like that I try to cram in as much as possilbe to elimiate wasted space. Both found objects and chopped up styrene model kits are great for this.

"Fear the cute ones." 
   
Made in nz
Nurgle Chosen Marine on a Palanquin






Whangarei , New Zealand

BLACKHAND wrote:





This is the amount I usually leave around the masters, probably not enough but the silicone I use is pretty flexible plus I am cheap as they come and don't want to use more silicone then I have to


Automatically Appended Next Post:
edit : Oh and hungryp, I personally don't use mould release as most of these silicons have so much flex that they peel of things like glass and plastic pretty easily

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2010/09/05 07:42:14


 BobtheInquisitor wrote:
I tend to glue metal models with a combination of BSI cyanoacrylate and my tears of frustration.
 
   
Made in us
Excellent Exalted Champion of Chaos






Lake Forest, California, South Orange County

hungryp wrote:

Would this part of the process be made easier by a quick shot of mold release on the glass and masters, or would that affect the mold compound differently than it does resin?


I use mold release on the glass and masters but not the legos as they pry right off.


Yes I wasted alot of silicone, it's been about a year since I've made a mold, and I was using backup silicone anyway so I wasn't worried about it and didn't measure out my volume first. Todays mold was a last minute decision.

Keep in mind that resin WILL stick to glass quite strongly, so use a release if resin will contact it while curing.

Tomorrow I'll post pics of how I do single side casts with perfectly flat bottoms.

"Bryan always said that if the studio ever had to mix with the manufacturing and sales part of the business it would destroy the studio. And I have to say – he wasn’t wrong there! ... It’s become the promotions department of a toy company." -- Rick Priestly
 
   
Made in gb
Thunderhawk Pilot Dropping From Orbit






London, England

Awesome looking forward to it .

I've ordered some linka molds of ebay for link 99p so hopefully I'll win them and then I'll have some interesting stuff to add to bases and the like. I also took a look at Hirst again, unfortunately its just an expense I can't afford atm so it'll have to be shelved for now, along with my dreams of a battlefoam case. Whoever said students had it easy obviously wasn't a gamer .


Automatically Appended Next Post:
Ok so the good news is that I won one of the Linka molds , the bad news is that I also bought a LR, a thunderfire cannon, a ten man assault squad and a bits box including two tanks in it . Something tells me I'm going to be a bit busy for the next few weeks .

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2010/09/05 21:13:41



No trees were hurt in the making of this sig, however many electrons were disturbed.
 
   
Made in ca
Mekboy Hammerin' Somethin'






aerethan wrote:
hungryp wrote:

Would this part of the process be made easier by a quick shot of mold release on the glass and masters, or would that affect the mold compound differently than it does resin?


I use mold release on the glass and masters but not the legos as they pry right off.




BLACKHAND wrote:
I personally don't use mould release as most of these silicons have so much flex that they peel of things like glass and plastic pretty easily




So, needing it will depend on the mold compound, but it can't hurt I guess?

Also: Loving the advice in this thread. Good job guys!

   
Made in us
Excellent Exalted Champion of Chaos






Lake Forest, California, South Orange County

I use mold release on masters out of habit and it also helps prevent the silicone from bonding with the master.

On low detail items like bases it shouldn't be a problem, but on something like a model you will NEED to use release when making the mold and when casting resin.

"Bryan always said that if the studio ever had to mix with the manufacturing and sales part of the business it would destroy the studio. And I have to say – he wasn’t wrong there! ... It’s become the promotions department of a toy company." -- Rick Priestly
 
   
Made in gb
Thunderhawk Pilot Dropping From Orbit






London, England

SilverMK2 wrote:Since you are in the UK, try talking to the guys at Tomps (online store). From what I have heard, they are pretty good at helping people out if they are not quite sure what they want/need. Their prices also seem pretty reasonable.


Thank you so much for this tip Silver, I just got of the phone with these guys they're absolutely brilliant. The chap I talked to really took the time to help me understand which products might be good for me and which ones certainly weren't, in addition he wasn't pushy about me buying the most expensive products. All in all a 10/10 customer experience for me.


No trees were hurt in the making of this sig, however many electrons were disturbed.
 
   
Made in gb
Avatar of the Bloody-Handed God






Inside your mind, corrupting the pathways

No problem

I've ordered casting stuff from them before on the advice of endtransmission, who said they were very helpful, so I'm glad that you found them so too

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2010/09/06 15:25:47


   
Made in au
Water-Caste Negotiator





Perth, Western Australia

Nice to see you changed the name of the thread blackhand.

Check out my Tutorial: http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/302457.page

Necromunda Tally: Chemos' Seekers
W-1 L-1 D-0 
   
Made in nz
Nurgle Chosen Marine on a Palanquin






Whangarei , New Zealand

Hehe, I am still considering changing it to "Dakka's general casting tutorial" I am only one voice in a large discussion now.

 BobtheInquisitor wrote:
I tend to glue metal models with a combination of BSI cyanoacrylate and my tears of frustration.
 
   
Made in us
Excellent Exalted Champion of Chaos






Lake Forest, California, South Orange County

You get credit for it as I've always just been too lazy to start a thread and post WiP pics lol

"Bryan always said that if the studio ever had to mix with the manufacturing and sales part of the business it would destroy the studio. And I have to say – he wasn’t wrong there! ... It’s become the promotions department of a toy company." -- Rick Priestly
 
   
Made in us
[SWAP SHOP MOD]
Decrepit Dakkanaut






OH-I Wanna get out of here

Might be a good idea to make the 1st post have a list of Silicone, Resin and Mold release in each country (or area) that has been used successfully.
   
Made in us
Decrepit Dakkanaut






Madison, WI

I agree with WM... good idea....

Anvildude: "Honestly, it's kinda refreshing to see an Ork vehicle that doesn't look like a rainbow threw up on it."

Gitsplitta's Unified Painting Theory
 
   
Made in au
Water-Caste Negotiator





Perth, Western Australia

Yep. It'd be good if we could have like a sidebar in the threads to show important stuff and what page it's on. Thanks BLACKHAND for starting this and keeping it and my hobby going. Kudos up to wazoo.

Check out my Tutorial: http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/302457.page

Necromunda Tally: Chemos' Seekers
W-1 L-1 D-0 
   
Made in us
Excellent Exalted Champion of Chaos






Lake Forest, California, South Orange County

For American buyers you can get Oomoo 25 1:1 resin from www.theengineerguy.com. You can also get Smooth Cast 300 resin there as well.

"Bryan always said that if the studio ever had to mix with the manufacturing and sales part of the business it would destroy the studio. And I have to say – he wasn’t wrong there! ... It’s become the promotions department of a toy company." -- Rick Priestly
 
   
Made in au
Water-Caste Negotiator





Perth, Western Australia

Australian buyers (Perth specifically), try Kirkside in Osborne Park. The links are on the first page of this thread.

Check out my Tutorial: http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/302457.page

Necromunda Tally: Chemos' Seekers
W-1 L-1 D-0 
   
Made in gb
Thunderhawk Pilot Dropping From Orbit






London, England

UK buyers start with Tomps.com, very helpful and knowledgeable, will really help you get what you need.


No trees were hurt in the making of this sig, however many electrons were disturbed.
 
   
Made in nz
Nurgle Chosen Marine on a Palanquin






Whangarei , New Zealand

There you go guys I have added a list to the first post with your suggestions, thanks for reposting them so they were easy to find, I still trawled through the blog to find any other ones PM me if I have missed anything

 BobtheInquisitor wrote:
I tend to glue metal models with a combination of BSI cyanoacrylate and my tears of frustration.
 
   
Made in us
Excellent Exalted Champion of Chaos






Lake Forest, California, South Orange County

I'd also like to plug myself for a mold maker.

If you don't have the resources or skill to make molds or casts, PM me and we can work something out. I can either sell you a mold or sell you casts.

I figure this will save cost for people who just want copies of that one shoulder they designed or head or whatever without the cost of buying entire batches of resin and silicone. I always stock both so I can make a mold any time.

"Bryan always said that if the studio ever had to mix with the manufacturing and sales part of the business it would destroy the studio. And I have to say – he wasn’t wrong there! ... It’s become the promotions department of a toy company." -- Rick Priestly
 
   
Made in nz
Nurgle Chosen Marine on a Palanquin






Whangarei , New Zealand

Very cool Aerethan I will add that to the OP

 BobtheInquisitor wrote:
I tend to glue metal models with a combination of BSI cyanoacrylate and my tears of frustration.
 
   
Made in us
Excellent Exalted Champion of Chaos






Lake Forest, California, South Orange County

Perhaps after I sell enough I can buy a nice little vacuum setup. Long pit life+ vacuum chamber= no more bubbles ever!

"Bryan always said that if the studio ever had to mix with the manufacturing and sales part of the business it would destroy the studio. And I have to say – he wasn’t wrong there! ... It’s become the promotions department of a toy company." -- Rick Priestly
 
   
Made in gb
Bounding Black Templar Assault Marine





Portsmouth/Derby

Nice tutorial, does anyone know where to get moulding quality silicone in the UK?

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2010/09/11 17:35:35


"Is that a krak grenade or are you just pleased to see me?"

https://twitter.com/tabletopbanter 
   
Made in nz
Nurgle Chosen Marine on a Palanquin






Whangarei , New Zealand

check the first post giant peanut all the details are there

 BobtheInquisitor wrote:
I tend to glue metal models with a combination of BSI cyanoacrylate and my tears of frustration.
 
   
Made in us
Scouting Shadow Warrior





Longbeach CA

Great Tutorial!!


quick question whats a good releasing agent that wont break the bank???

like pinkysil and easycast do i need a releasing agent for the oomoo 25 and smooth cast resin 300?


I am White/Black
 
   
Made in us
Excellent Exalted Champion of Chaos






Lake Forest, California, South Orange County

I use both of those products and I don't use release for it.

The oomoo will degrade over time as that is the nature of resin, but the resin won't stick to silicone so you don't need releaser.

"Bryan always said that if the studio ever had to mix with the manufacturing and sales part of the business it would destroy the studio. And I have to say – he wasn’t wrong there! ... It’s become the promotions department of a toy company." -- Rick Priestly
 
   
Made in us
Scouting Shadow Warrior





Longbeach CA

is there a shop that sells pinkysil and easycast here in the US??


I am White/Black
 
   
Made in us
Excellent Exalted Champion of Chaos






Lake Forest, California, South Orange County

easycast is utter crap if it's the one I'm thinking of. 24 hour demold time and I have yet to get rigid pulls. A waste of money.

Either go with Smooth On's smooth cast 300 series or get the Micro Mark resin. Only bummer about Micro Mark is that they don't take paypal(unless that changed recently, been a while since I've ordered from them).

"Bryan always said that if the studio ever had to mix with the manufacturing and sales part of the business it would destroy the studio. And I have to say – he wasn’t wrong there! ... It’s become the promotions department of a toy company." -- Rick Priestly
 
   
Made in nz
Nurgle Chosen Marine on a Palanquin






Whangarei , New Zealand

Might be something different you are thinking of Aerethan, the easycast I use demolds in about 10 mins or less if you use a heat lamp, 25 mins if you don't

 BobtheInquisitor wrote:
I tend to glue metal models with a combination of BSI cyanoacrylate and my tears of frustration.
 
   
Made in us
Excellent Exalted Champion of Chaos






Lake Forest, California, South Orange County

I used Easy Cast clear casting resin

http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/product.php?pid=386

Can't get this stuff to work worthwhile for anything besides bases.


Automatically Appended Next Post:
And smooth cast has a nice short 5 minute demold anyway.

This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2010/09/12 08:56:35


"Bryan always said that if the studio ever had to mix with the manufacturing and sales part of the business it would destroy the studio. And I have to say – he wasn’t wrong there! ... It’s become the promotions department of a toy company." -- Rick Priestly
 
   
 
Forum Index » Painting & Modeling Tutorials
Go to: