Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you: No adverts like this in the forums anymore. Times and dates in your local timezone. Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance. Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely. Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net. If you are already a member then feel free to login now.

Good job, LT.

As to shield damage, so long as you have a good excuse for why it's clean within the army it's all good.

For example, in my "army" all the foot troops are mostly clean and undamaged, but the vehicles are very weathered and damaged.

It's not that I don't want to weather all the troops, I have reasons:
Repairs and resupply of small things for the troops is easy for The (Mad) Scientist, but the larger stuff for vehicles is very rare. Therefore the troops are clean for every fight, but the vehicles soldier on through many fights.

As Red' said, maybe they get new shields every fight.

Edit: Helloooooooooooooooooooo page 50.

There must be something fundamentally wrong with people who voluntarily choose to paint something yellow.

Very wrong if something happens to be a vehicle.



See you back in another dozen layers or so.

Cheers!

PS: 50 pages! And just two months short of 5 years since the first post, too. Still not tat much painted stuff, though...

It is a Painting and Modelling thread. Plenty of top notch modelling going on. The painting is just a bonus.

It helps if the undercoat is a very light gray or white. Also, avoid shading with orange. Hmmm, come to think of it, just avoid orange. I may be a bit biased here. Try something like a yellow ochre, or raw umber or raw siena. I have no idea how these match with proprietary names.

Yeah, I'm with Red on the primer thing. Trying to yellow over a darker color has always been a nightmare for me. Starting light and then working towards the dark has always worked well with my yellows, even though it's counter intuitive.

Listen to these guys they know their stuff. I always base coat a solid white under yellow. I use yellow ink rather than paint and one or two coats does it for me. To shade I like purple washes and finish with sepia.

Now, got to say, the "vehicle"is looking blooming fantastic bud.

Not to sound like a broken record, but ^ all this. I like a pale grey base for yellow myself, although I'm going to try a Khaki base for one of my dreadball teams. Also, looking good

Thanks all!

Yes, I thought the yellow would have been able to handle the gray undercoat better (would have never tried it on black), but it was still too dark. Should have pre-base in white, but I guess I jumped the gun,
in overeagerness.

Lesson learnt.

Plan A), keep throwing paint at it until it either turns yellow enough, or everything disappears under a blob of greenish-greyish-yeellowish not-colour, or B) try with an "intermediate" coat(s) of Vallejo Japanese Uniform (sort of ochre) or Dark Sand (Very light yellow-off white), hoping for better coverage from the branded paints and then respraying the actual yellow.

@Red H: "Proprietary" paint name? Ja! Don´t know much about that, most of my paint rack is artistic acrylics, toothpaste-like fluid. Except for the metallics (non-miniature paints really can't compare there), some inks and washes and two paint sets: Vallejo Leather Set (browns, mostly) and Scale 75 Skin and Flesh.

But I am ready to give a proper name to the yellow nw, I'm thinking something on the likes of #$%##$%#!! Yellow. How's that for branding?

And thanks for the Modelling part thumbs up, too!

Hope to do some more on the weekend.

Thanks for stopping by!

You can paint from black or grey, its a bit more effort but here is my recipe:


Looks salvageable, if you don't have any of the above colours you can mix a bit of purple into your yellow you can make something like "dirt"

I'm really impressed by how clean the join is between the sections of that model

The best tip I’ve found for painting yellow is to only let colorblind people look at your models. Seriously though even with a light basing it’s still neither fun or easy.

@OMN: I'd say it's about time I got some proppa' paints, isn't it?

@gnome_idea_what: Good tip. I'd rank not painting yellow first, though,

Opted for Plan a), and went full Imperial Guard¹ on (or is it against?) it:



Pics lie, I swear there is some colour modulation in there... But at least it looks like yellow.

Cheers!


¹ Keep throwing things at it until something sticks, or it blows up. Both are good.

That looks proper yellow now. Any mis-coloured sections can always be explained by UV damage and assorted weathering.

Good work, LT.

I paint yellow pretty much the same as I paint any other colour (and that includes starting from black), but I use different paints.
However, yellow can take 1 or 2 more coats.

Something that you can do to get a bright finish (works for red as well) is add white to your yellow of choice:
Instead of Shade (browns) > mid (yellow/brown) > upper (Yellow) > highlights (white)...
Use this: shade (brown) > mid (yellow/brown) > upper (Yellow/white) > *and add a stage* (Yellow over everything) > highlights (white).
Both simplified; I usually have a few layers of paint at each stage, blending all the way.

You want to take the yellow / white up to a point where it looks really faded. Then when you cover it all in yellow it works more as a filter (as yellow tends to be more transparent than other pigments) and you keep the blending and shading and get bright yellow.

White is very good at giving other paints better coverage; making it more "opaque" (for want of a better word). If you have trouble covering one colour with another, add white to it and then cover that with the top colour again.

Oh, I refer to certain companies' habit of naming paints with odd names so that they can be trademarked. And I think, to confuse hobbyists into thinking there is something special about them.

You use the thick/heavy body acrylics? How do you thin them down? I find using thinner for house paints ( paint easy or floetrol) works a charm. Or matte medium+water.

Y Islandia? Que paso? Well, at least your team is in the World Cup. Amusing to see the Germans lose to the Mexicans. Apparently the celebrations in Mexico started an earthquake... so goes the rumor.

Highlighting yellow... Pure white. But more effective is shading. Yellow Ochre is your friend here. Looks a proper construction vehicle too. I expect to see Caterpillar or Komatsu stencilled on it.

 Littletower wrote:
@OMN: I'd say it's about time I got some proppa' paints, isn't it?

Oh, I don't know you seem to be doing pretty damn well imo.
Besides your paints can't be that bad if you can airbrush with them.

Old bad habits die hard, so it's back to a les-than-monthly post...

Close to done Death Korps 2nd Squad:



Not even a proper squad, more some assorted Guardsmen, actually, but almost enough for two when added to the ones already painted. Next in the DKK queue up are the heavy weapons to complete the basic infantry line-up, not built yet. I need to source some small magnets for those as well, to allow for some load-outs flexibility, I think I least have heavy bolters and autocannons (or was it heavy stubbers?) to put on the carriages. Will have to check.

On another note, we had a Tournament last week! Local WH40K is on the rise! Got the Guard out for a tour (I just aided-de-camp for the eldest Cub, not enough stuff for two full armies), and did quite well. 10 armies in total, three games in a day, five tables at the same time (The board and most of the scenery got to be played on too), great time! (I took few and poor pics, will try to dig some better ones up)

@monkeytroll: I was certainly planning on some (heavy) weathering to cover up paint mishaps, UV damage will be a great add-on to possible explanations!

@Dr H. Adding white to the yellow seems very sensible. Also, starting with a white or light tan undercoat. I'll try it when (if?) I built the next part of that thing (It is supposed to be a recovery vehicle, or something on that line, a crane or grabbing arm, or at lest a bridge or ramp layer, a la engineer corps tank, might evolve for it later on).

@Red H: Yes, heavy body, art acrylics. For thinner, either - or both - acrylic medium + water or specific airbrush medium/thinner, Liquitex. Does the job.


Back to hobby: Yes, planing on shading mostly, ochre or even a stronger brown, to bring out the panel lines and darken the recesses. Will try the gloss varnish and wash route, probably more pin-washing over general covering (too many flat areas for potential flood marks there otherwise)

@OMN: Paints are not bad,not complaining at all. I'm just thinking sometimes something "specific" for the job would make things a bit easier, that's all. And thanks!

Looks good. I like the glowy powerfist.

@insaniak: Thanks! though I think the powerfist benefits unfairly from being on the back and out of focus...

Squad is done, sans some last minute weathering/dusting best left for the airbrush, time permitting will get done tomorrow.

Meanwhile, work so far on the second Krieg Commissar:



Those prone to detailed observation might notice the missing sword coming out of the scabbard. Or not coming out, come to think of it. thing went M.I.A. never to be seen again (Resin, meh, part of the sword wielding arm. Either broke off unnoticed, or, miscasted, was never part of the piece).

A replacement part is in the making - too tiny and thin for plastic, been hammering a bit of aluminium wire to shape to see if it works, we will see soon enough - to fix the problem before calling it done.

Better, if not good, pics of the full finished squad and Commissar overseer to come soon.

Thanks for stopping by!

I had assumed it was a light-saber that he hadn't activated yet, and just carried it in a full scabbard because he was pretentious.

Looking good so far, the back of the coat and belt look excellent.

Thanks, MT!

Black coat and leather are the two things I tried to focus on on this one, glad they are done enough to catch some attention.

I'd thought about the lightsaber route, but couldn't find a half-decent explanation for the scabbard. Once again, community input proves itself!

Now, there are choices: turned-off lightsaber/powersword, or old school blade?



(If blade, I'll try some power/glowy effect. Well, a white edge highlight, at least, )

Cheers!

Turned off power sword. IIRC, teal is the color of such technology. The replacement piece looks a perfect fit.

About the paints: You could get some dropper bottles and pre-thin them -- assuming you haven't already. I have done this with the few heavy body paints I use. This is essentially what you would get if you bought Vallejo or P3 paints. A couple of pieces of sprue or flash in the bottle to serve as an agitator, and voila, brush-ready paints for the minis.

Did you apply any sort of wash over that gold?

I love that vibrant red. And I feel old school for the sword, but that's just me.

I think he's very suited to an old-school blade, looks the type to put his trust the Emperor's will and a length of cold steel.

Turns out I went the other way, not for not paying heed to the C&C received, but I just did it before I got a chance to go over the feedback (Ms. LT and the younger cubs took over the TV last night, so I just kept going on on the workbench instead, )

Power sword it was, and powered up, because Martin Fierro:

«Las armas son necesarias
pero naides sabe cuándo;
ansina si andás pasiando,
y de noche sobre todo,
debés llevarlo de modo
que al salir, salga cortando.»

Translated (from the Web, not mine):




Hope it is not too disappointing.

 Red Harvest wrote:
About the paints: You could get some dropper bottles and pre-thin them -- assuming you haven't already. I have done this with the few heavy body paints I use. This is essentially what you would get if you bought Vallejo or P3 paints. A couple of pieces of sprue or flash in the bottle to serve as an agitator, and voila, brush-ready paints for the minis.

Did you apply any sort of wash over that gold?

Yes, Vallejo Brown Wash + Skin Ink (Too reddish for skin, BTW, IMO), and brought (tried to) back up with Vallejo Glorious and Polished Golds (Yellow-orange and pure yellow gold, respectively). Too subtle?

And about the heavy paints, usually the wet palette and a drop of medium works fine enough, I just have a few custom mixed colours in some in dropper bottles for hairy brush use. I do premix and keep in said bottles the thinned versions for airbrushing, easier (and hopefully, a tad more consistent) that way.

Thanks for stopping by!

Good work, LT. Good job replacing the blade.

Glowy green works well.

Thanks, Doc!

Finished the Commissar, and the squad.

Vox Operator, Plasma Gunner, Powerfist Sergeant, and Flamer trooper:



Flamer (again, not another one), Grenadier, and Grenade Launcher. And unit filler chaff,



Cheers!

Looking good! Glowy stuff all seems nice

Good job on the squaddies.

Thanks, Doc!

Commissar got finished:



And started on a couple more.

Krieg Officer:



I "kind" of expected more from this one. I don't think it looks bad - not too bad at least -, I just doesn't "tell me" anything. I tried purple for the coat lining instead of the Commissar's red, to keep them different, but it turned up a little, IDK, dull? Still missing gold detail work, hope that helps.

And Primaris Psyker:



About half done.

C&C are welcome, as always!

Thanks for stopping by

I'm down with the purple lining, reckon it'll pull together once the mask and details are in place.

Yep the detailing on the officer should help.

Good work on the psyker so far, I always trough that model resembled Yuri from Red Alert 2.

Good work on fixing the commissar's sword btw. FW make their swords way too thin sometimes.