Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you: No adverts like this in the forums anymore. Times and dates in your local timezone. Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance. Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely. Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net. If you are already a member then feel free to login now.

Sweet! IS that not the coolest thing ever?

Kinda.

OK guys, I need help from you.

I have been thinking about pipes and overhead pipe clusters to be used as walkways.

Armorcast sells some excellent Resin overhead pipe walkways, but I need to spend about $100 to have enough and in both heights (1 and two storeys).
http://armorcast.com/store/index.php?cPath=120_55


Alternatively, I have built an order online from Plastruct, including all sorts of pipe fittings, valves, etc. Which I ca use to build my own overhead walkway system.
http://www.plastruct.com/picat/TUBING_FITTINGS_9.pdf

However, the price will ultimately be about the same $100 if I am to get enough of those fittings. But I will still have to custom make each one.


Either option does not really give me the types of piping I really want though.

I want pipe fittings with flanges where they are riveted or bolted together.

The plastruct fittings are all smooth connections, but flanges are available, but un-riveted and kind of expensive for nothing more than sliced tubes really.

I have the armorcast pipeline and I really love it. Great looking stuff.

I say buy the plastruct pipes, make your own fitting and it will be YOURS! Your stuff looks better than store bought anyway!

Then, have the pipes that you make cast in resin, sell them and make millions!

Been thinking along those lines myself recently. For small diameter pipes I was thinking of hole-punching some plasticard for the flanges. My circle cutter's not great at smallish diameters so medium pipes are an issue.

But you'd expect a variety of pipe-work in the underhive, so a few armorcast and non-flanged pipes are still good

I gotta go with Vik's tophat solution, too, Dave. It would be a pain in the butt, however, and I am not sure about making molds of them. They would probably require two part molds. But remember, ultimately, if you want it done right you gotta do it yourself......

i like the idea you are about to make into a reality... and to be frank... do it your way... you shown us wonders already... i am in no way doubting this project to have any possible option of failure... and i think with the right suplies you will see this through... you have the talent and the tools...it will be an enourmous task, but you are just the man for that! if you have to think twice about that...just take a look at your table...there you see the plastic proof... no further point in arguing about an already decided path...!

the crosssection like you pictured could proove a bit tricky...but there are million ways around that problem...and half of them wouldn´t even involve GS...so...cool idea...
make it happen!




Automatically Appended Next Post:
oh and LDD...i go and hunt down your thread just the next minute...

and that big holepunch...yummmmmmmyyy!!! i think i need a new tool...

and mordain...lol...that holepunch is extra special^^

Well, I didn't mean that cross-pipe in-particular, It was the cool-looking bolted flanges on the pipes that I was using the picture to illustrate.

dsteingass wrote:Well, I didn't mean that cross-pipe in-particular, It was the cool-looking bolted flanges on the pipes that I was using the picture to illustrate.

Hirst arts has a "pipeline" mold set that has some of what you're looking for. If you make up a master I'm game for making it into molds...

I thought you could only do 1-part molds? If you can do 2-part molds, that's enough to make up my mind


Automatically Appended Next Post:
edit: I looked at the hirst pipeline mold, not exactly, but I could easily make those, it's just that the measrements would be crucial so that the pipes lined up.

I am heavily interested in whether or not you can do two part molds, as well......

dsteingass wrote:I thought you could only do 1-part molds? If you can do 2-part molds, that's enough to make up my mind


Automatically Appended Next Post:
edit: I looked at the hirst pipeline mold, not exactly, but I could easily make those, it's just that the measrements would be crucial so that the pipes lined up.

I've never made 2 part molds... I'm willing to give them a try however. (I'd just need to pick up some "mold release" agent to prevent the two halves from bonding to each other.

Would a one-piece mold work for a vertically placed pipe, flat 'underside' of the flange being the top of the resin when poured? Kind of a T shape.

I dont know if you have seen these but they might help: http://www.shapeways.com/model/265198/miniature_pipe_connectors_1_6mm.html?gid=sg78958 The guy who made them is pretty cool and made me some stuff, I saw these and thought they might work just an idea and you could recast them for yourself he is ok with it I believe.

Now I have done a thread, stuff there with plenty of rivets how close to the league am I know

Wow those are tiny! 1.6mm! oof!- but awesome! This is 3D printing..hmmm.

actually for my taste you are damn close now...how is the ruling of the other riveteers?

and those pipes look very good!

Aye!

dsteingass wrote:Aye!

Aye! Aye! What do you want blood

Yes, they are pretty cool, have you checked out the other stuff he does might be of use to you.

He does some larger ends for like piping and supports that look pretty cool, I think I have a picture some where of them in use, will have a look if your interested.

I had a thought the other day, I came across an old Verlinden plaster eastern ruin scene piece which got me thinking, if you were doing building moulds like Galron's have you thought of doing some with large shutter doors.

It was on this model piece and I thought it work really well in a hive world.

make em yourself dave, should be at least fun, plus im sure it will look great

I like his work. If the newedt member has a vote I say Aye!

mxwllmdr wrote:I like his work. If the newedt member has a vote I say Aye!

Cheers but I think it will take more rivets a hole lot more ………

Depending on the piece you may want to use a one piece split mold. Basically you pour the entire mold at once and then gently cut one side near the pour gate to remove the master and casts.

I would post a pic but my examples might violate an IP or 2. for pipes with fittings and such it would probably be a good option.

theunicorn wrote:Depending on the piece you may want to use a one piece split mold. Basically you pour the entire mold at once and then gently cut one side near the pour gate to remove the master and casts.

I would post a pic but my examples might violate an IP or 2. for pipes with fittings and such it would probably be a good option.

How easy is this to do, surely if you cut the mould there is a chance of distorting it, so when you come to use it and apply pressure to hold it in place, would this not create the possibility of none alignment ?

Its just when you see 2 part moulds they have guide points to line up the 2 halves, this will not have any so surely the chance of movement would be possible, ending with a distorted cast ?

Most resin companies use this method. when you cut the side if you cut in a S shape it helps to align and reduce flash/mold lines. I see good results using the technique.

theunicorn wrote:Most resin companies use this method. when you cut the side if you cut in a S shape it helps to align and reduce flash/mold lines. I see good results using the technique.

No I just wandered as I have done some small scale moulding, and wondered how well this would work 2 part moulds are a real pain to do

I must concentrate my funds/energy on the building, the mold-making wizardry is not for a mere Muggle like me.

Flange Test 1


These are spacers that came with some cable-locks for laptops and other such devices
Notice the offset studs (rivets) and holes?




Believe it or not, I do NOT have any 10mm tube, so this plastic clicker from an old inkpen is doing the job for the moment.

hey i think it looks realistic, so pen clicker worked!

Resourceful good fined and great execution job is a gooden, however I fined that some one so high in the house of riveters not to have 10 mm tube is beyond believe, take a thousand lashes and repent for your sins ……


Have you got a scale shot ? just to give us some size reference

Offending IP violation is not visible but the pour gate is still in this mold. This is a 28mm head mold it captured all of the detail on the tentacles and skull ridges.