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I will be visiting Phil's Hobby Shop promptly tomorrow after work to take care of that little problem

I have .5, 1, 2, 3, 3.2, 4, 5, 6, 6.3, 6.5, 7,7.1, 8. 8.7, 9mm styrene, and 15mm PVC tubes, but no 10mm (but probably some decimal sizes smaller somewhere that I missed However, this is what size these free flange bitz are on the inside diameter, 10mm.

I see you have achieved the desired look you were after successfully …… genius

Thanks for the scale shot it is kind of the size I thought it would be, these should work well and look the nut's, have you drawn or worked out a design for the make up of these yet ……. or you still just spinning the ideas around.

This was just a quick throw-together test, hence the wonky nuts. Gonna use this to test the new airbrush primer.


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An evening of experimentation



This is the finest primer I've ever used in my life

Nice. that would definitely cast up well as a "top hat" two halved (two pieces) joint.

.....hmmmm
/scratching stubble thoughtfully


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Shot with Golden Brown

Wow, you can really see my glue bombs here, sorry, I was in a hurry to test this. We are not done here by any means

Yeah, you need to make that in two pieces and cast one of them at like four copies in one mold. That is good, Dave. Very nice.....


And the nuts don't look so wonky after paint.

Lookin good friendo! I love the ladder your girlfriend was spot on!

now that is wonderful how quickly you tested this new idea...and i have to say...perfect look...the rivets could look a bit shorter...true but the general look is very good... that will be so freaking cool once you have a mass of these done...are those rings/spacers easy to come by for you? i expect you will need millions of these...

so many useful bits you have .. so jealous am i .the pipe join is perfect top work !

That primer worked marvellously, good flat even coat better than GW white undercoat gak .

With the base coat colour looks perfect I think its spot on, I would cast these up for sure hell I would buy a a mould of these for my Orks , got ideas bouncing around all ready

You going to try some different angles in this method and some triple ended pipes these could be a winner

Well since I work for a pipefitting company, this is relevant to my interests

In my (limited) experience (I'm only an apprentice at the moment). Fittings; such as elbows, tees etc. would usually be welded to the ends of pipe. Flanges are usually used to shorten individual spools to allow for easier installation. Valves are usually flanged as well. But having a every fitting with 2 flanged ends might look odd...

That said, there are exceptions to those rules, each job is different after all, but I don't see flanges being used excessively in the underhive, as they are generally used where things might need replacing (Valves are a good example here) as the joints are much more prone to leaking than a fully welded pipe.

What you've done so far looks fantastic! But I don't think every fitting should have a flange on it. Use them sparingly.

Just my £0.02p

Some times the look has to out way the reality, on this occasion I think it is one of those just my 0.02p

Maybe I came across the wrong way there, I never said they shouldn't be used; in fact, I absolutely love what you've done there, it looks VERY realistic.

I just don't think that EVERY fitting should have a flange on every end.

EDIT: Actually, I'm thinking about it whilst I'm in work (I'm thinking about pipes, it's all good )

How are you planning on integrating this pipework with what you have already, making new walkways on top of pipes? Around or above new walkways? Or as standalone items that can be woven in and out of your buildings?

Also remember that pipes need to be supported somehow. Especially when they're full of stuff, and, in the underhive, they're more likely to be full of poo than anything else

Hooray! more work, though I probably would have gone with a bunch of bendy straws and filled them with pva glue for strength.

Tibbsy wrote:Maybe I came across the wrong way there, I never said they shouldn't be used; in fact, I absolutely love what you've done there, it looks VERY realistic.

I just don't think that EVERY fitting should have a flange on every end.

EDIT: Actually, I'm thinking about it whilst I'm in work (I'm thinking about pipes, it's all good )

How are you planning on integrating this pipework with what you have already, making new walkways on top of pipes? Around or above new walkways? Or as standalone items that can be woven in and out of your buildings?

Also remember that pipes need to be supported somehow. Especially when they're full of stuff, and, in the underhive, they're more likely to be full of poo than anything else

Sorry I may have come across sounding a bit of a dick (after reading back what I said ) I think you are correct with what you said (after all it's your profession or at least will be) so you are correct and wise as to what the layout of such systems are and how they should look.

I was only meaning to say that some times if something is not right but looks cool that works as well.


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Dave is the primer expensive and what other colours does it come in

I used to work in a food canning factory, so everything was often replaced, expecially where we pumped stuff like gravy and soup, so flanged pipes were everywhere. Besides, this is the underhive, one can only speculate what this equipment was once used for, that is the beauty of only needing to abide by the rule of cool.

Spoken like a true master ……


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Is that primer expensive and what colours doe sit come in ……..


I really think you should cast up those fittings ……. I want some for my to build ork flame tank

lone dirty dog wrote:
Sorry I may have come across sounding a bit of a dick (after reading back what I said ) I think you are correct with what you said (after all it's your profession or at least will be) so you are correct and wise as to what the layout of such systems are and how they should look.

I was only meaning to say that some times if something is not right but looks cool that works as well.


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Dave is the primer expensive and what other colours does it come in

You didn't sound like a dick mate, don't worry about that

I suppose it would look cool having so many flanges, I just think it would be a bit odd, and by having less flanges, you can save on materials, which means you can have more pipes

EDIT: Aha, it seems I got ninja'd by the man himself!

Good point on that, like I said, there are exceptions, and it seems food canning is one of them

BTW, I don't know if you mentioned it before: Where did you get those plastic rings? And how readily available are they?

I also work in the food industry, and still do and thinking about it we have loads of those fittings every where …… which to validate your point it everything leaks ………. LOL …….

I don't work in the food industry, ... but i do like food I don't leak fluid though, just the odd bit of gas.

Well, thats input for you …….. maybe you have some leaking pipe work

dsteingass wrote:I must concentrate my funds/energy on the building, the mold-making wizardry is not for a mere Muggle like me.

Flange Test 1


These are spacers that came with some cable-locks for laptops and other such devices
Notice the offset studs (rivets) and holes?




Believe it or not, I do NOT have any 10mm tube, so this plastic clicker from an old inkpen is doing the job for the moment.

You continue to amaze, DST! These are unbelievable! You should certainly figure out a way to mass produce these!

monkeytroll wrote:Would a one-piece mold work for a vertically placed pipe, flat 'underside' of the flange being the top of the resin when poured? Kind of a T shape.

Monkeytroll's idea got a little lost, but I think it's a good one. For the concept pic that you showed, you wouldn't need 3D pipes, just half of one. If you go with the general concensus of split it in half and cast it, I think you should keep that idea in mind.

Keep up the great work!
Rawson

I am the design studio.
Galorn is the mold-maker.

If he thinks that it can be done, then I can always make the master in that way. But if I were to cast two halves lengthwise, it will look completely stupid if the two casts are not symmetrical, including the rivets/bolts. Everything would need to line up properly.

I was assuming that they were meaning to split it like -| |-

dsteingass wrote:I am the design studio.
Galorn is the mold-maker.

If he thinks that it can be done, then I can always make the master in that way. But if I were to cast two halves lengthwise, it will look completely stupid if the two casts are not symmetrical, including the rivets/bolts. Everything would need to line up properly.

M0rdain wrote:I was assuming that they were meaning to split it like -| |-

I thing Mord has it. Think of two top hats. "final assembly" would be glued Brim to Brim.

I have just had, possibly the greatest brainwave ever....

1: Where did you get those? And are they available in bulk?

2: How do they fit together, do they "snap" together, or did you need glue?

3: Do you think it would be possible to make it so that each flanged joint is actually a joint that can be seperated? Possibly by using magnets?

Because the idea I had, if it is possible, you could make a variety of pipe spools and put them together in a different way each game, make the whole thing modular.

Besides, the denizens of the underhive could be expected to have to had to replace nearly everything, so by Tibbsey's observation that they are mainly used for that i think there should be a flange every 1.5 inch......


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I know nothing of pipefitting but I don't think that Tibbsey should be thinking of pipe all day at work.....

And the Vallejo airbrush primer was not very expensive at all, I also bought some smaller bottles of the primer in German Grunbraun, German Dunkelgelb, and grey.

I only used a few drops of the white primer in my airbrush, and that was enough to prime the pipe AND I had enough left to prime the Finecast Lord Commissar you see there too.

So I will most likely never buy another rattlecan of primer, since in theory, that big bottle should last me a long time.

I am contemplating just investing in the entire line of 72 Vallejo Airbrush paints. I am ordering their metallic set, and I am very anxious to use them. from their website:

http://www.acrylicosvallejo.com/gb/model-air-gb.html#

"The formula contains a new acrylic resin with properties until now impossible to obtain in a waterbased acrylic. The resistence, hardness and covering power of Model Air is superior to any known acrylic for airbrushing."



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Tibbsy wrote:
1: Where did you get those? And are they available in bulk?.

From an old box of unused cable locks for laptops, no they are not

Tibbsy wrote:
2: How do they fit together, do they "snap" together, or did you need glue?

Look at the pic, they have offset studs and holes, they snap together tightly, but to retain the look of the bolts between flanges, I did not snap them together tightly, I left a gap. I did not glue the two halves together, when I brushed on glue for the bolts, capillary action glued them together in the holes I covered up with bolts.

Tibbsy wrote:
3: Do you think it would be possible to make it so that each flanged joint is actually a joint that can be seperated? Possibly by using magnets?

That is entirely possible, but probably prohibitively expensive.

Tibbsy wrote:
Because the idea I had, if it is possible, you could make a variety of pipe spools and put them together in a different way each game, make the whole thing modular.

Sure, but everything would really need to be made of injection molded ABS plastic (like LEGO) , so that the constant pressure of fitting and unfitting the parts would not warp/maul anything. Also, that type of action would quickly wear any paint off, so it would quickly look like crap, unless the color was also molded in the ABS.

I use vallejo airbrush paints all the time, though I can't seem to find their air primers (I can get the regular primers though). Just don't try to dilute them with alcohol, the pigments will precipitate out.

I think the airbrush surface primer often gets mis-categorized on websites, since the label of the bottle does not specify "for airbrush", yet the instructions state to apply directly with airbrush.


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M0rdain wrote:I was assuming that they were meaning to split it like -| |-

But it's not flat, there are the little bolts in-between, they would need cut precisely so that when two were butted up against each other, the bolts line up. any deviation, and it will look wrong.


Everybody is talking about casting, and that is great, but unless a system of interchangeable pipes like this is 100% precise, it WILL NOT work!
So, let's not get ahead of ourselves yet. THIS WAS JUST A TEST PIECE!!!!
It will NOT get a mold made of it, it will NOT be used for anything other than junk or rubble. I would be completely embarrased to have this piece in production and have my name tied to it as-is. I was in a hurry to test a concept and therefore nothing is straight on it.