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Made in us
Blood Angel Terminator with Lightning Claws






Virginia

I'm familiar with that website, been around for a while (which means they have to be somewhat reputable), never got around to ordering anything.

Forgive me if I'm preaching to the choir-I like those doors, but be aware that you need to maintain detail consistency for things to look right. If you use a very detailed door, you should replicate that level of detail everywhere else (which is a lot considering the size).

Terrain Blog Reaver Blog Guide to assembling Forge World Warhound titan
"So if I want to paint my house green, even if everyone else thinks it should be red, guess what? I'm going to paint it Jar-Jar." -George Lucas 
   
Made in gb
Rampaging Reaver Titan Princeps





Earlobe deep in doo doo

I'd suggest you take a look at the Ebbles Miniature cardstock walls here http://www.ebblesminiatures.com/shop/2004scenery.php the Firebase Maginot thing looks perfect for what you want!

"But me no buts! Our comrades get hurt. Our friends die. Falkenburg is a knight who swore an oath to serve the church and to defend the weak. He'd be the first to tell you to stop puling and start planning. Because what we are doing-at risk to ourselves-is what we have sworn to do. The West relies on us. It is a risk we take with pride. It is an oath we honour. Even when some soft southern burgher mutters about us, we know the reason he sleeps soft and comfortable, why his wife is able to complain about the price of cabbages as her most serious problem and why his children dare to throw dung and yell "Knot" when we pass. It's because we are what we are. For all our faults we stand for law and light.
Von Gherens This Rough Magic Lackey, Flint & Freer
Mekagorkalicious -Monkeytroll
2017 Model Count-71
 
   
Made in au
Sinewy Scourge






Western Australia

I'd leave the ramps as is, and just not worry about putting models on them. You don't show models partway up a ladder after all. They start at the bottom and charge up to the top in their movement phase, make them count as having an automatic run and not be able to shoot or assault that turn if you think it too far, or have to pause on the landing between turns.

Kabal of Venomed Dreams
Mourning Angel
UsdiThunder wrote:This is why I am a devout Xenos Scum. We at least do not worship Toasters.

 
   
Made in gb
Lone Wolf Sentinel Pilot






Inboud...

Instead of a long, flat wall, have you considered angling the sections to form a shallow 'U' shape? Just adds an edge to the overall piece IMO. Also, have you considered using Basions to 'cap' each end of the wall sections? Could look cool.

DR:90S+G+M++B++I+Pw40k00#-D+A++/mWD292R+T(M)DM+

FW Epic Bunker: £97,871.35. Overpriced at all?

Black Legion 8th Grand Company
Cadian XV Airborne "Flying Fifteens"
Order of the Ebon Chalice
Relictors 3rd Company 
   
Made in us
Fixture of Dakka






Lancaster PA

I think Morgrim might have a good idea if you want to keep the stairs. If you made multiple landings, say 2-3 depending on wall height, you could just have a rule that if you start a model within 2" of the bottom you make it to the first landing, and if you run you get to the second landing. By the next turn you would move to the top.

Alternately, I would do the elevator idea, with one big ramp for vehicles. Any truely epic wall needs to be thick enough to drive a Leman Russ down


Woad to WAR... on Celts blog, which is mostly Circle Orboros
"I'm sick of auto-penetrating attacks against my behind!" - Kungfuhustler 
   
Made in gb
Phanobi





Gosport. UK

For the towers id go to a bits place and see if they have the tower from the fortress of redemption.

http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/463976.page (Space Sharks and Tau)

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Made in gb
Mighty Brass Scorpion of Khorne






Dorset, UK

Miss Dee wrote:For the towers id go to a bits place and see if they have the tower from the fortress of redemption.


That was one of my initial ideas, but due to how I intend to set the wall and access to the top of the wall up, very little of it would be visible and I reckon it would be a waste. its perfect in terms of hight but I cant see how I'd make it tie in with the rest of the piece

Morgrim wrote:I'd leave the ramps as is, and just not worry about putting models on them. You don't show models partway up a ladder after all. They start at the bottom and charge up to the top in their movement phase, make them count as having an automatic run and not be able to shoot or assault that turn if you think it too far, or have to pause on the landing between turns.


The way I currently have it planned, the ramps will be in two 10" pieces, intentionally making them so they will take a long time to ascend, this is why I need to make sure I can find a way to safely place models on them.

jabbakahut wrote: forgive me if I'm preaching to the choir-I like those doors, but be aware that you need to maintain detail consistency for things to look right. If you use a very detailed door, you should replicate that level of detail everywhere else (which is a lot considering the size).


I intend to put in as much detail as I can, there are lots of little bits I've found that id like to add here and there once the main structure is sorted. One thing I would like to know is if anyone knows of a way a could get some little imperial aquila's? about the same size as the ones on the aegis defence lines ect just for a bit more decoration.


Just to give an overview if anyone is interested.... I am basically building it for a seize ground mission with a planet strike sort of siege feel. 3 objectives; the gate and the 2 gate houses, all of which must be destroyed to be claimed by the attackers. 4'x4' board, I'll have a road running through the middle of the board straight through the gate. the wall will be 12" in from the board edge all the space behind it is the defenders deployment zone. the attackers deploy across the opposite board edge and get a 6" deployment zone. defender can place reserves anywhere behind the wall or deep strike them outside. The attackers reserves may walk on from further and further up the board each turn (ie, none in turn 1, their deployment zone + 10" in turn 2, deployment zone +20" in turn 3 and then anywhere in front of the gate for the rest of the game). I made a little diagram of it for lack of anything better to do whilst I wait to get paid so I can start buying stuff to get building
[Thumb - deployment.jpg]


   
Made in us
Blood Angel Terminator with Lightning Claws






Virginia

Just make a simple green stuff mold out of an aquilla, that's what I did, whenever I need a little eagle I just mash some more green stuff and voila!

Terrain Blog Reaver Blog Guide to assembling Forge World Warhound titan
"So if I want to paint my house green, even if everyone else thinks it should be red, guess what? I'm going to paint it Jar-Jar." -George Lucas 
   
Made in us
Wolf Guard Bodyguard in Terminator Armor





Utah

Looks great so far cant wait to see it all done

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Deff Gearz 2,000+pts. (50% painted), Retribution 57pt.(70% painted), FOW British Armoured Squadron 1660pts. (15% painted)

 
   
Made in gb
Thunderhawk Pilot Dropping From Orbit






London, England

@Gorechild, loving the project so far. A couple of things that come to my attention though.

Firstly, and please someone correct me if I'm wrong, don't defensive walls tend to have an angled face. Maybe something to consider and would add a bit more character perhaps.

Secondly, you said you'd be using the aegis line. Is that as ramparts or in front of the wall itself?



No trees were hurt in the making of this sig, however many electrons were disturbed.
 
   
Made in us
Storm Trooper with Maglight






Catachan

Gorechild wrote:...


This will only work if all models have a low enough center of gravity. Otherwise, they'll topple just the same and your 'stoppers' will be little more than miniature fulcrums for poorly balanced climbers.

This aside, I like your idea for Angel Gate and it seems to be coming along well. Keep up the good work.

*Ok, the picture didn't post. Anyway, it's the diagram of the two guys on the ramp.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2010/02/18 23:56:12


   
Made in gb
Mighty Brass Scorpion of Khorne






Dorset, UK

@jabba- thanks that will do the job perfectly

@lennysmash- I'm considering sloping the front side of the walls, as long as I can find an easy way to do it, taking into account the protruding gun positions. the defence lines would be used as a parapet along the top of the wall, but as you mention it, I'm reconsidering using them as I think they are a little bit to tall, and the width of them may cause problems, I'm sure I could cope perfectly well using them, but im going to keep looking for other options

   
Made in gb
Thunderhawk Pilot Dropping From Orbit






London, England

@Gorechild

There is an example of how to slope the lower half of a wall on the Hirst arts website, I'll try and get you a link.
I also thought you might like this trench set for in front of your wall.

http://www.amera.co.uk/product.php?range=z

Amera are a great little company, their stuff is dead cheap but makes an excellent base for terrain building, I've got some of their products and honestly I think its some of the best budget terrain on the market.

Here is that link I promised: http://www.hirstarts.com/tips/tips.html#wall

You should check out some of Hirst's moulds they would really allow you to produce a lot of detailed pieces for a fraction of the cost.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2010/02/19 00:18:49



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Made in gb
Mighty Brass Scorpion of Khorne






Dorset, UK

Only a quick drawing on paint, but do you think this is better? I prefer it already
[Thumb - Wall MK2.jpg]


   
Made in gb
Thunderhawk Pilot Dropping From Orbit






London, England

Definitely an improvement imo, you said that you were going to use plasti-card. Just a thought but what about use some kind of modelling foam as a core. You could easily achieve your shape with a hot wire cutter. You could then use something like mesh joint tape and polyfiller to achieve a textured finish to your walls or alternatively you could cover with a fine grade of sand paper.


Automatically Appended Next Post:
Forgot to point out by the way these were only ideas and not things I've tried so have no idea how they cost out or how effective they are.

Additional point if you were to use a foam you could easily cut a firing step into the top. then maybe use some thing like this to add a little detail.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Terrain-Wargames-Starship-Large-Catwalk-Set-30-pieces_W0QQitemZ220554052093QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Toys_Wargames_RL?hash=item335a0bc1fd#ht_5040wt_754

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2010/02/19 00:44:52



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Made in gb
Mighty Brass Scorpion of Khorne






Dorset, UK

yeah, I think its a big improvement, I'll just have to figure out what shape the pieces will actually be now.
I'm still uncertain as to if I would make the wall solid or hollow with just an internal frame. I found a site where I can get all the textured plasticard I'll need for £1.60 a sheet so I'm not worried about finding a cheaper solution. It will make it easy to manage and add details to, plus it will make painting it a million times simpler.

   
Made in us
Storm Trooper with Maglight






Catachan

In my opinion the sloped wall does look better. Because of plasticard's expensiveness, I recommend using foamcore sheets as the main material with plasticard used for details such as trim. A great source of plasticard that will give you the most bang for your buck is a plastic 'For Sale' sign. You should be able to buy one at a home improvement store.

   
Made in au
Sinewy Scourge






Western Australia

I still think you'd be better just charging up to the landing of the ramp, and quite doable in one turn.
Even completely flubbing dice rolls, a model can move 7"; if you nail them and have an enemy at the right range you get 18". Average would be somewhere between. Taking a full turn, movement & shooting & assault it seems reasonable that they can move 10" up a ramp to the landing.

Kabal of Venomed Dreams
Mourning Angel
UsdiThunder wrote:This is why I am a devout Xenos Scum. We at least do not worship Toasters.

 
   
Made in gb
Mighty Brass Scorpion of Khorne






Dorset, UK

Okay..Its been a good while since I've posted anything so here goes

I have the wall sections completely planned and modelled out in cardboard, including the "gate houses" that I now have looking more like towers, and the parapet. Now I'm just figuring out how much plasticard I'll need to make it in the full size, and waiting to start work next month so I can afford to buy the materials .
Here are the pics
[Thumb - Wall plasticard.JPG]
This is what I will use to make the walls

[Thumb - Floor Plasticard.jpg]
I will make the top of the wall's and the access ramps where the models will stand out of this.

[Thumb - Angels Gate MK3 (2).JPG]
The wall from the outside, with sloping exterior walls and parapet

[Thumb - Angels Gate MK3 (1).JPG]
Access ramp and gatehouse on the inside of the wall. Access point for friendly units drawn on

[Thumb - Angels Gate MK3 (3).JPG]
View of the gate and gate house from the outside, Access point drawn on.

[Thumb - Angels Gate MK3 (4).JPG]
Top down view of the wall, showing access point to gate house.


   
Made in be
Liberated Grot Land Raida






Belgium

Looking cool! My only gripe would be that the towers near the gate are at the back; Most real life defenses had all towers except the keep to the fore. They allow for a greater range with the weapons, and make small 'keeps' and rallying points when part of the ramprts is breached.

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Made in gb
Thunderhawk Pilot Dropping From Orbit






London, England

Agreed, the primary role of a fortified tower is to have it at the fore to rain down ammunition on attackers. Also if you think about the strengths and weaknesses in a fortification, the gatehouse or barbican is the weakest point. Think about making that area of the wall double or even treble the width it is now.
Check this out to see what I mean.
http://www.abdn.ac.uk/english/lion/images/layout.gif

Other than that love it, the walls are really looking the business now and the textured plasticard will be great once its painted. Out of curiosity where did you find the plasticard, is it on the net or just a local store?


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Made in us
Blood Angel Terminator with Lightning Claws






Virginia

Looks good, I don't so much see a problem with the departure from traditional defenses. It's the 41st millenium. I think it will be really expensive to use textured styrene like that though.

Terrain Blog Reaver Blog Guide to assembling Forge World Warhound titan
"So if I want to paint my house green, even if everyone else thinks it should be red, guess what? I'm going to paint it Jar-Jar." -George Lucas 
   
Made in gb
Lone Wolf Sentinel Pilot






Inboud...

Liking what you're doing, but not so sure about that textured plasticard. IMO bricks don't look quite right in 40k, you'd be better off building them plain, then texturing them with roughcoat to make it seem like concrete.

DR:90S+G+M++B++I+Pw40k00#-D+A++/mWD292R+T(M)DM+

FW Epic Bunker: £97,871.35. Overpriced at all?

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Cadian XV Airborne "Flying Fifteens"
Order of the Ebon Chalice
Relictors 3rd Company 
   
Made in gb
Noble of the Alter Kindred




United Kingdom

Nice project

just a thought. If you have gate towers, stairs would be contained within them.
You could retain the ramps as they give extra thickness to the wall and allow access for heavy equipment to be placed on the ramparts.

I assume that it is okay to put troops on the ramparts in the deployment phase?

 
   
Made in us
[DCM]
-






-

So far so good!

This is turning out nicely indeed!

   
Made in gb
Mighty Brass Scorpion of Khorne






Dorset, UK

@CommissarKhaine - I considered having the towers in front of the gate, but putting them there would get in the way of LOS for everyone on the wall, making them unable to fire on attackers once they got to the gate.

@Lennysmash - I'm using the protruding gun platforms as the base to rain bolter fire on the people at the gate, whilst keeping the towers for a more defensive roll. they will be used mainly to fire on enemies that have breached the wall, as the heavy bolter positions wont be able to fire behind the wall. the plasticard is from http://www.barrule.com/Workshop/scratch%20builders%20paradise/sheet%20materials.html

@jabba - I'm trying to figure out now how many sheets of the stuff I'm going to need to get an idea of how much it will cost me, if its not insanely expensive I don't really mind.

@CadianXV - I am still considering using plain plasticard, but don't know if it will make the whole think look a little plain when there's a 4' wall of it. The Forge world fortress that was my original inspiration is made of stone blocks (although they are considerably larger than the ones on the plasticard I found).

@Chibi Bodge-Battle - I am using the towers as thought they have stairs in, being why I drew the access points onto them, I intend to make them for the defenders use only, to give them another advantage over the attackers. The defenders get to deploy anywhere on, or behind the wall.

@Alpharius - Thanks

   
Made in gb
Noble of the Alter Kindred




United Kingdom

Re cladding
I picked up a pack craft foam (10 A4 sheets) for £1.99
from The Works last week. As it was so reasonable i thought it may have some terrain type usage.

Would work out cheaper than styrene card.
It would be a bit spongy but once glued and primed it would have a decent rendered texture i think.

Also, you could break up the plainess of the wall by adding some tie pin* bosses at regular intervals

* Architectural reinforcement and not neckwear decoration

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2010/02/24 21:02:18


 
   
 
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