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Well a ravager has 3 guns, but can not transport anyone. Unless it was Vect, then its kind of a mix of ravager and raider, but costs a zillion points.

wow arnt that dark angels where wolves should be? he i am a power player i pick the heaviest possible list. and winning is not impoortant having fun is. we went too battle of the clubs 2 years ago we where the worst team but we won the sportmanship award for friendliest club of holland. so my tip for the convention
have fun do your thing and pray,
too the holy mantis in the sky that your opponents army will die.
now thats some shakesphere right there

Gitts its cool to see you gaming with your minis mate, i always get a twang of jealousy when i see a battel report , i really should find a gaming club. Do you think you would paint and model if you didnt game?

neil101 wrote:Gitts its cool to see you gaming with your minis mate, i always get a twang of jealousy when i see a battel report , i really should find a gaming club. Do you think you would paint and model if you didnt game?

I'm going to answer a question that wasn't directed at me, but eff if I care.

I find that gaming makes me want to paint (I hate playing unpainted models) and painting makes me want to game (gotta try that new ******). But if I've lost a few in a row, or played several d-bags in a row, I will often pass on playing to paint. But if I didn't have some fun and great games, and more importantly opponents, from time to time, not sure I could keep going. Certainly not at the same speed (which is already slow).

Game two vs. combined Blood Angels force.

They had...

predator
two rhinos w/ troops
sanguine guard
couple of jump pack squads
another tac squad (guys in the crystals?... maybe they were assigned to a rhino? not sure
nasty dread
another nasty dread in a pod that let him assault on deep strike
some winged super-character

Stupid scenario. Half a dozen things to keep track of, needed troop squads from both teammates to claim or contest a quarter, odd little other ways to earn points. If this is the real "primer" for Adepticon prepare for a ridiculous event. You get command counter to give two units the ability to either count as scoring or give them to one to count as a double scoring unit (i.e. can hold or contest by itself).

Turn 1
They fort up in the center behind large sight blocking terrain. I drop on their right flank. Initial strike works well... sternguard imobilizes pred & knocks out two guns, Iron clad takes out rhino (there was some reason we wanted to take out that rhino). We move up a bit, shooting from razorbacks miss.


In their half the dread in the pod deep strikes and charges my razorback, immobilizing it. They blow up my Iron Clad and pod & the troops and nasty dread move to take out my sternguard and MoTF.



Turn 2:
We move forward, something shoots the other rhino, the sternguard & MoTF get taken out by the dread of endless attacks. We plink away at some assault guys. The space wolf leader charges the dread nibbling at my razorback and kills it, taking a wound in the process.


Turn 3:
Troops pile out of land raider and finish off an assault squad. Not sure if my shooting accomplishes anything. LR gets popped. I think in assault)


Turn 4:
Space Wolf troop squad gets taken out in assault along with a pod or so. Game ends, they have 2 quarters, we have one... they have more kill points as well. Major loss.

At least you likely wont have to play against that DP, as its a IA ruleset (guess you could, but not as likely).

Actually if no one on your team used your IA piece, you could put your ironclad in a Lucious Pattern DP for similar results.

interesting batle reps, fun to read! cant wait to see the actual battles, write up some fluff for the big games?

Stunning blog with an amazing level of creativity and detail. You have done a great job re-envisioning this legion... And to keep building and painting with this pace and skill is truly fantastic!

Keep up the great work!

Very nice battle report!
Can't wait to see the next one.

@whalemusic: Well, each team of four people gets 1 FW item... so it's possible, but I think there are much more powerful FW things out there... serious cheese should abound. Since we're playing a fluff-based force... our FW item is Huron for the Tiger Claw player.

@sage: There won't be any time for that. From what I can tell from the stories I've heard, gaming at Adepticon is sheer chaos. I may get a few pics in of each battle... but I wouldn't hope for much beyond that.

@mandzark: Thank you very much! I'll certainly keep doing my best... I'm actually looking forward to slowing down a bit in a couple of months... other things in my life have been suffering with all this painting.

@Matt.Kingsley: Thank you sir! Should be a little while, but perhaps this weekend. Going to run another variation vs. my son's nids. Granted...he's 7, but it's Nids... so it should be a challenge regardless.



So, our team is actively debating list changes. We've come up with some possibilities. Problem is that it seems the more "useful" the army gets, the less Mantis Warrior-like it gets.

theme over effectivness i think theme should win.
hmm one forge world piece you say how much points per player? i think someone is bound to be crazy enough to deploy a thunderhawk gun ship or a thunderbolt

No super-heavy stuff allowed. Now if we didn't already have our forge world bit, that drop pod would be a good choice... but Huron is the right choice for our team, so I'm perfectly happy with that as our selection. Besides, I don't need the pod... and the darn things costs $95.00 which is a total rip-off. So even if I *could* fit it in my list, I doubt I'd shell out the money for it.

And remember, each team member only gets 1000 points, so for something like marines.. that's not bloody much. Oh, what I could field with my orks though...

Thought it was 55 gbp? 140 would almost get you a cram!

cram? What's a cram?

56 lbs = roughly $80 I guess... With shipping around $95. Someone told me $140, that's obviously not right but still... nearly $100 for a pod is over the top Fixed post though, thanks for catching that... should have checked.
.

C-ram. Caestus Ram for the not lazy. 92 gbp, ~ 150 usd. thats without shipping of course.

No more acronym inventing please, I have just encountered one here that I use at work.......

Ah... yeah, neat thingie... but TBH I'd rather have a Storm Raven.


Well, just got a pep talk from one of the best 40k generals I know. I think I'll make some minor tweaks to my list and keep practicing. He gave me some good things to mull over, and suggested some possibilities I hadn't thought of.

So... tonight we get back to finishing the Iron Clad and some green stuffing of the marines Whalemusic360 built for me, which is the next project!

Do you need me to change up anything in Bravo?

And I call it the C-ram because I can never remember the actual name. I'd like to get one sooner or later, something for the DA to zoom around in next to the Ravens.

@WM: Not at this point... trying to keep those two squads in-tact as they are pretty versatile as-is.


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I posted the following in another thread. I thought I'd post it here as well since folks might be interested if they're thinking about getting an airbrush.

Problems as stated by another Dakkite:

- I cannot seem to aim correctly the burst correctly, and to avoid the aforementioned problem (watery paint pushed by the air pressure), I have to airbrush from a quite important distance, which again leads to a lack of accuracy. On the model above, you can see a large quantity of blue over brown, and vice versa. If I get closer, the paint spreads over the mini due to the pressure, if I get farther, it just spreads far beyond the parts I want to reach...
- Those drying/clotting/clogging issues happen even when I aim at basecoating a mini. For instance, I tried to basecoat my 5 Gutter Runners with Khemri Brown, and before I could start the fourth one, I had to dismantle the airbrush, clean it, then... I got fed up with it. It seems I cannot even speed up the painting with it!

I've had the aiming issue myself from time-to-time... in my opinion it's related to the fouling of the tip of the needle at the collar, the fouling causes the paint to flow unevenly around the needle tip and causes it to go off in odd directions (my theory... take it for what it's worth.

Keep in mind that even with all of the painting I've done with my airbrush, I have yet to take it apart to clean it. I will eventually... but it's not been necessary yet. I clean it a lot... but have not disassembled it.

So, to the point...
- Check the specs on your airbrush & make sure you're running it within the recommended PSI. My Talon runs at 20-50. I can dial it down to about 15 psi which helps me with finer work, but the droplets get bigger and more obvious when I do this so it's a trade-off.

- The way I clean my brush and needle is easy and fast.
1. Run roughly 1/3 of a cup (1.5 ml) of your solvent (windex for me) through the brush, swish it a bit to clean the loose stuff off the bowl.
2. Dip the ends of a cotten swab in solvent and use them to rub the semi-dried paint off the sides of the bowl. DO NOT do this if there is liquid in the bowl as the little bits you rub off will drift down into the mechanism and mess up your needle. Make sure all the chunks come out with your swabs.
3. Pour more solvent (same amount) into the bowl and dip another cotten swab in solvent (I just dip both ends into the solvent in the now clean bowl) and spray about half of it out full blast.
4. Take the swab and gently place it over the needle. Spin it around a few times, you'll be amazed at the gunk this picks up.
5. Repeat with the other end of the swab, second swab should be pretty clean looking when done.
6. Spray out the remainder of the solution, spraying it in pulses will help knock anything left in the needle chamber loose & when done, spray air for a few seconds to dry things out inside.

Viola! You're done! It's probably a good idea to disassemble and clean your brush more often than I do... but this system has kept me spraying cleanly for quite a while now... 6 weeks at least.


Some of your issues (#2) might be related to trying to do too fine a deatil of work with too large a needle and without a fine enough touch on the trigger. I just purchased a #1 (0.25 mm) needle and tip for my brush (cost like... $11 total) to help me paint individual figures. I was able to do some finer work on Inushi with my current #2 needle (0.32 mm I think) but it took a really fine touch on the trigger and I had to dial down the pressure to 15 psi.

You could also try an an alternate brush stroke. Rather than giving a constant spray, you pull back on the trigger, then release... once per pass. I've done this when working on smaller figures and it does help control the over-spray leading to paint drip. It also lets the paint dry just a bit in between spray pulses.

Gitz vallejo do paints for Air brushes

Yes I know. That was the first part of my response to the questioner, just didn't think it worth re-posting.

In my field of work a C-RAM is a gun that shoots rockets and mortars.

then again I have a 25 page word document of acronyms I am SUPPOSED to know, but generally disregard.

I'd go head and assume if its on Dakka, its probably the flying SM thingy Always annoying when acronyms are used for multiple things, but its all about context. Whoever came up with the idea is a real SoB (see what I did there?)

Been away for a day or two and I come back to see a sad Gits. I'm not sure how much this will mean but I wouldn't worry too much if that's possible. These were a few games that didn't go your way but it happens to the best of us. Plus, all the people of dakka are clearly rallying for you so lot's to be gained, still with time to adapt tactics and lists.

I'm not sure who the general who gave you advice is but I'm sure most people here will be wearing their "Gits T-Shirts" (or underpants if they are in full marine armour ) and the combination may well help.

Plus the "survival" packs should mean you have a great time at the event anyway!

Hi Gitz,

Having read his post and your response I would like to offer my own opinion, as I encountered exactly the same thing when I started airbrushing:

1) You need to make sure you are running thin enough paints. You want to balance good coverage (not too thin) without clotting (not too thick). The ideal thinness changes a bit depending on distance and air pressure.

2) Once you get a decent thinness, try dialing down the air pressure. This will have a huge impact on your ability to paint up close without "spidering". Spidering is caused both by having too much paint (so it's a thick enough layer to spread out) and too much airflow (which pushes the paint).

I would dial down to just about as low an air pressure as you can get away with and then increase slightly, then try to get your feel for that level by getting your thinness where you want it.

I'll pass that on to the OP... oh wait.. i don't have to, he'll see it here eventually. :-)

Thanks Heff! I'll use that advice myself.


@Taff: Thanks man, I just play so infrequently that I end up with a lot of emotional investment in these figures that I slave over for weeks... so when things go to **it it really knocks me for a loop... at least for a little while. But, one motivational speech later & I'm ready to get back in the saddle! Hope to get in a couple of games in this weekend so I can practice refining my technique a bit.

Gitsplitta wrote:I'll pass that on to the OP... oh wait.. i don't have to, he'll see it here eventually. :-)

No, I didn't.

Alright Yggs... I was trying to protect your dignity by maintaining your anonymity but you just blew that to smithereens... nice goin' ace!

*grin*

I used to get emotionally invested in models too...a couple of dozen thrashings on the table have beaten that out of me

Now I just make sure to bring at least one new conversion to each Club Meet so that I can bask in the adoration of the fumblefingered masses (so modest right?)

Though on a wierd note, thanks to me using the same login name on my clubs forum people have started calling me blackhand instead of using my real name..

Gits: Don't scoff at $100 drop pods mate.. that's almost what it costs BH and I to purchase the standard GW ones here in NZ!

List wise, I'm actually deeply saddened by the news of it's awkwardness as a workable list. My dusk raider list was virtually identical, only with more veterans and less drop pods (due to aforementioned price). This will mean if I plan on gaming with them then I'll need to rework mine as well.

I agree with the theme over practicality thing to a certain extent, but given this is for tournament play you need to strike a solid balance. Best of luck bud! Can't wait to see more of that dread too..!

With the IC being an expensive draw card, perhaps you could drop a tac squad with it as cover/padding. I imagine once you get past the first volley of melta rage then getting him into CC would more than make up for the risk wouldnt it?

Disclaimer: This post contains no valid experience or useful advice and is merely indicitive of an opinion conveyed by an individual widely regarded as 'oddly lucid' at the best of times. Also, he likes pie. Feel free to send him pie.