Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you: No adverts like this in the forums anymore. Times and dates in your local timezone. Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance. Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely. Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net. If you are already a member then feel free to login now.

Morning Everyone!

So I'm going to be kitbashing a DakkaJet starting tomorrow. My biggest question is what kind of glue do you all recommend for the clear plastic windows since I know that super glue will mist/frost them and you wouldn't be able to see the Orks inside?

Thanks!

Use a glue specifically for clear plastics. Any decent hobby shop should have some, or at least be able to recommend one.

Humbrol Clearfix is one.

A couple things I learned from scale modelling:

Dip them entirely in Future, then let them dry on a paper towel under a tupperware to avoid dust. This will protect them from scratches, etc. as well as make them look even clearer and more like actual glass. This also will add protection from frosting. Future makes a HUGE difference. If you don't use it, go to Walmart and pick up a bottle or two. It lasts forever, great cheap gloss finish....just a million uses.

Then, use plastic glue as above, or white glue.

Awesome! Thanks!

I used Elmer's School Glue on my Valkyrie.

I used to use just liquid plastic cement but you can have accidents. PVA won't corrode the window if you smear it off target. The Future polish is what all keen aero-modellers use to make cockpit canopies super shiny.

Wood glue works well and wont frost it.

Wood glue = high grade PVA.

There are various different PVA adhesives around. I've used a number of them and don't find a significant difference for modelling use, so nowadays I just buy the cheapest or most easily available, depending on circumstances.

PVA.
Carefully apply it with a cocktail stick.

There seem to be a bit of a misunderstanding here.

Cyanoacrylate/super glue doesn't actually frost clear plastic. With that I mean that it isn't a reaction between glue and plastic that causes the frost-effect.
It becomes frosty when it comes into contact with something with a bit of moisture in it, such as the oil from the skin of our fingers.
This allowed Axel Foley to find fingerprints using superglue in Beverly Hills Cop, and is also used by real forensic investigators today.

This knowledge allows us to avoid the frosting-effect. If you wipe off the clear plastic bit, perhaps with a mild alcohol-based fluid, and handle it gently or with gloves....no frosting appears.
Of course, the amount of super-glue you use also have an impact.
The more glue you use, the more fumes are released. This also increases the chance of frosting.

I had exactly the same worries as the OP when I put my Ork flyers together.
Following the above laid all my worries to rest.

Now you might think; " hhmm...wiping off with alchohol...using gloves...sounds like a lot of work", but it really isn't.
As it is the fumes that causes the issue, you only really have to worry about the inside of the cockpit, ie. the enclosed part.
Next put your glued model somewhere with a bit of air-movement, such as a window-sill, next to a fan or outside. This the prevent the fumes from concentrating and effecting the outside of the cockpit, and you will be left with a clear cockpit-canopy.



....