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Dakka Painting Challenge Round 76: June 2021- Boots on the Ground  [RSS] Share on facebook Share on Twitter Submit to Reddit
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Made in gb
[DCM]
Procrastinator extraordinaire





Edinburgh, UK

Some jaw dropping stuff this month! Looks like it'll be another hotly contested month!

Late to the party but here is my entry, a squad of Wraithblades, fully magnetised for each respective loadout although I'm going for the axe/shield combo for this month.


5000 Fir Farillecassion Eldar W/L/D 4th Ed Codex - 14/7/1 6th Ed Codex - 9/1/0 7th Ed Codex - 4/1/1 8th Ed Codex - 20/6/2 9th Ed - 2/2/0
2000 Hive Fleet Zenith
The Cutting Mat Chat: A hobby blog
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Made in gb
Fresh-Faced New User





Ok got some guard proxy models from anvil studios... pretty good.... paint up five of them on a scenic base of some kind....

before pic...

   
Made in gb
Fresh-Faced New User




Cheshire

 DV8 wrote:
My entry will be Radukar the Beast. I was still in recovery mode earlier in the month from grinding out the Crimson Court last month, so it took a while to get started on this, but once I started painting it, it sort of just came together.

Proof pic:


And the finished model:


That is unreal. Love the blends and fades everything about it is spot on!
   
Made in us
Dakka Veteran





Denver, CO











Proof:




https://www.instagram.com/lifeafterpaints/
https://www.twitch.tv/lifeafter 
   
Made in gb
Sacrifice to the Dark Gods





I haven't managed to complete much in these painting challenges over the last year but I'm determined to submit a completed entry so as I'm late to the month I'm going to complete this chaos cultist with flamer!



   
Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut




Wisconsin

So many great looking projects again this month. Here is a WIP update of my eradicators.
[Thumb - 95B09A82-CEAC-46EB-B3F1-F87B91B25EC0.jpeg]

   
Made in gb
[DCM]
Procrastinator extraordinaire





Edinburgh, UK

Great looking Reivers life after and those Eradicators are looking awesome Yorkright! A bit of progress on my Wraithblades. Airbrush steps are almost done, the armour needs a little bit of shading and the power axes might get an easy power weapon effect and then I can move on to blocking in details prior to weathering.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2021/06/21 11:49:03


5000 Fir Farillecassion Eldar W/L/D 4th Ed Codex - 14/7/1 6th Ed Codex - 9/1/0 7th Ed Codex - 4/1/1 8th Ed Codex - 20/6/2 9th Ed - 2/2/0
2000 Hive Fleet Zenith
The Cutting Mat Chat: A hobby blog
Excoriators! The forgotten Second Founding Chapter P&M blog
Instagram, follow for other hobby updates 
   
Made in gb
Regular Dakkanaut






Work in progress on the boys from the 122nd.


With several awesome entries already posted this month, I feel I should raise my game and may attempt to paint the eyes on these guys.

   
Made in us
Ultramarine Master with Gauntlets of Macragge





Upstate, New York

 Turaxa wrote:
Work in progress on the boys from the 122nd.

With several awesome entries already posted this month, I feel I should raise my game and may attempt to paint the eyes on these guys.


Eyes are one of those things that are easy to screw up, but add so much to the finished model. High risk/high reward. But like most things, practice makes perfect. Or so the theory goes. I still screw them up regularly. But less bad then I used to. It’s been a while since I painted someone who was both cross-eyed AND had the crazy-eye going on.

Push yourself. Get better. Ask for advice. It’s why we are here.

   
Made in us
Three Color Minimum





Tangentville, New Jersey

My June ended up being way more busy than I wanted, so I barely got any work done:



The goal is to get them to match an existing 28mm character, Major Prospera:



At this rate, I don't know if I'll meet the deadline


 
   
Made in jp
[DCM]
Incorporating Wet-Blending





Japan

 Nevelon wrote:
 Turaxa wrote:
Work in progress on the boys from the 122nd.

With several awesome entries already posted this month, I feel I should raise my game and may attempt to paint the eyes on these guys.


Eyes are one of those things that are easy to screw up, but add so much to the finished model. High risk/high reward. But like most things, practice makes perfect. Or so the theory goes. I still screw them up regularly. But less bad then I used to. It’s been a while since I painted someone who was both cross-eyed AND had the crazy-eye going on.

Push yourself. Get better. Ask for advice. It’s why we are here.


Eyes are, indeed, tricky, and can be quite frustrating as well. On some models, the eyes are either so poorly sculpted (or not sculpted at all, beyond a couple of pits beside the nose, or just too tiny to bother with. I don't think I painted any of the eyes in my samurai army. But if they are big enough to see, then painted eyes really do make the model pop.

I say, give it a try and see what happens. Practice is the only way to get better.

Now showing Crimson Devils from Warzone!

Painting Total as of 7/27/2021: 48 plus an iron golem and five spider nests and all the obstacles for Dreadball Xtreme and four trapdoors and a cauldron and some teleport disks!

Painting Total as of 12/26/2020: 185 plus two mechs and the Throne of Bone




 
   
Made in nl
Regular Dakkanaut





The Netherlands, Europe

Hey guys, I´d like to have some advice on my Stone Golem, please. It currently looks like below and I´m planning to do one more layer of highlights via drybrushing. But I´m kinda stuck after that, as if I´m afraid to ruin the thing. What could I do to make him look more interesting?

I've already washed it with a black/brown and I was thinking of adding some moss tufts (I have these: https://cdn.webshopapp.com/shops/7221/files/20102275/890x820x2/mininatur-moss-pads-summer-1-87-747-22-s.jpg). Would some subtle amounts of green wash around the moss look more natural?

I was thinking giving it either red/orange glowing eyes or green.



Thanks in advance!
   
Made in gb
Wise Ethereal with Bodyguard







I like the moss tuft and glowing eye ideas.

What about using a dark grey or black to put in some mystic sigils? check out some authentic cave art, or just some simple angular runes. Make it look a bit like a golem tattoo

Please excuse any spelling errors. I use a tablet frequently and software keyboards are a pain!

Terranwing - w3;d1;l1
51st Dunedinw2;d0;l0
Cadre Coronal Afterglow w1;d0;l0 
   
Made in au
Ragin' Ork Dreadnought






Albany, Australia

Some different rock types, or at least shades, for the facial features would also draw attention to them. Darker eybrows and lips, lighter teeth perhaps?

   
Made in us
Sure Space Wolves Land Raider Pilot





Folkvang

In this phase I'd usually add something like pigment to the rocks. Green pigment adds a mossy and old look while lighter colors like ocre add the idea of dust. And yeah totally down with moss tufts or something like that.

If you don't have any of that, you might try varying your stone types by looking at different types of rocks online. Some green moss agate or a few strands of marble might make for an interesting model.

Most importantly, have fun.

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Made in us
Grovelin' Grot




So again, pointing out I'm not the best at painting and hoping my LEDs carry this haha. Here's the current state of him, will take better pictures for the submission with lights on, waiting on the base to dry before I finish that up. I'm debating what exactly I want to do beyond this point, improve it without going outside of my target look for my models. I'd like to preface that my ork army is specifically avoiding metallic paints, aiming for bright colors contrasted by blacks. I'm unsure how much weathering I want to add, as I want my orks to look, for lack of a better word, "cartoony" instead of dirty. Flashy I suppose, hence the LEDs. Any suggestions, or should I just settle for what I have right now? Maybe some blood on the claws? Color more of the spikes black?

   
Made in gb
Wise Ethereal with Bodyguard







With yellow I’m always a sucker for a bit of dark brown sponging, then adding just a touch of leadbelcher at locations of high wear.



I know you are avoiding metallics, but I think a bit of hard edge highlighting with a darker silver would help make the black bits pop.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2021/06/23 07:59:38


Please excuse any spelling errors. I use a tablet frequently and software keyboards are a pain!

Terranwing - w3;d1;l1
51st Dunedinw2;d0;l0
Cadre Coronal Afterglow w1;d0;l0 
   
Made in nl
Regular Dakkanaut





The Netherlands, Europe

Thanks for the help, Flinty, Arakasi and Freya!

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2021/06/23 21:13:49


 
   
Made in gb
Fresh-Faced New User





Wow already some great stuff this month... DV8 love how painterly the model looks this time...but just as neat as always....

anyway... boots on the ground... had to be the Imperial Guard (well some proxies from Anvil) put them on a little scenic base and made a little hole to stick a led light underneath.... problem with this is its really difficult to photo :-)

but here we go anyway...





   
Made in gb
Wise Ethereal with Bodyguard







That soldiers’ boots are not on the ground… or possibly even still attached…

Great work. The explosion looks amazing.

Please excuse any spelling errors. I use a tablet frequently and software keyboards are a pain!

Terranwing - w3;d1;l1
51st Dunedinw2;d0;l0
Cadre Coronal Afterglow w1;d0;l0 
   
Made in gb
Regular Dakkanaut






 Nevelon wrote:
Eyes are one of those things that are easy to screw up, but add so much to the finished model. High risk/high reward. But like most things, practice makes perfect.
 JoshInJapan wrote:
But if they are big enough to see, then painted eyes really do make the model pop.
I say, give it a try and see what happens. Practice is the only way to get better.

Thanks for the encouragement. I don't often bother because I get such mixed results, but I gave it a go this time. I got good results dotting the pupils with a micron pen, but when I was painting the whites of their eyes my teeny-tiny brush felt more like a mop.

This guy was the best of the bunch. He's a bit "I've seen things, man...".

   
Made in gb
Growlin' Guntrukk Driver with Killacannon





Scotland, but nowhere near my rulebook

Progress on The Pit Pony lugger servitor

Colour scheme is set to match my gang



And I don't plan to base him, because he's accidentally perfectly balanced on his front feet.



Which may be useful on the walkways of Necro.

Highlighting and detailing still to do, but coming along quite nicely.

Turaxa - you have the same problem with eyes as me. The pupils with a 0.03mm pen work well for me, but the whites are often too big. I find going back "outward" and adding eylids above and below can flatten out the shape.

Tim121 RVC - seconding the grass tufts. Possibly some clump foliage? A few twigs to represent bushes as well as grass? Also, you could sponge on some yellow/green as lichen.

Yarrork - I agree with you on "clean" Orks. I like the effect. Others don't. I figure the Grots should be keeping the equipment well painted and oiled, and if they don't you need to beat them more.

Balloon Dog - holy moley. "Standard procedure, Baldrick, is to leap 200 feet in the air..."

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2021/06/24 09:34:13


 
   
Made in us
Ultramarine Master with Gauntlets of Macragge





Upstate, New York

 Turaxa wrote:
 Nevelon wrote:
Eyes are one of those things that are easy to screw up, but add so much to the finished model. High risk/high reward. But like most things, practice makes perfect.
 JoshInJapan wrote:
But if they are big enough to see, then painted eyes really do make the model pop.
I say, give it a try and see what happens. Practice is the only way to get better.

Thanks for the encouragement. I don't often bother because I get such mixed results, but I gave it a go this time. I got good results dotting the pupils with a micron pen, but when I was painting the whites of their eyes my teeny-tiny brush felt more like a mop.

This guy was the best of the bunch. He's a bit "I've seen things, man...".


Yup, that’s the crazy eye. Not out of place on the battlefields of 40k. But at least looking the right way.

Go back and tidy up the top/bottom of the eye to get the whites back where they belong. Almost there!

   
Made in gb
[DCM]
Trustworthy Shas'vre





Leicester

Yeah, if you look in a mirror you’ll see that you eyelids basically cover the too and bottom of the eyeball pretty much to your cornea, so just run a line of flesh tone across the too and bottom and it should look much better.

DS:80+S+GM+B+I+Pw40k08D+A++WD355R+T(M)DM+
 Zed wrote:
*All statements reflect my opinion at this moment. if some sort of pretty new model gets released (or if I change my mind at random) I reserve the right to jump on any bandwagon at will.
 
   
Made in gb
Legendary Master of the Chapter





UK

Not sure what I'm painting this month yet, but I just picked up a set of oil paints that I want to experiment with. I know a lot of the regulars here have been playing with oils recently, so anyone got any tips/tricks/"Oh god why didn't I learn this sooner?" advice for working with them?

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2021/06/24 13:40:59


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Made in gb
Calculating Commissar






Reading, Berks

I know there's only a few days left, but I need something to give me a kick to at least try and get some more things painted up... so here we go. I'm going to try and do some of the Cursed City skeletons

The before image:

   
Made in gb
Esteemed Veteran Space Marine






Northumberland, England

Paradigm wrote:Not sure what I'm painting this month yet, but I just picked up a set of oil paints that I want to experiment with. I know a lot of the regulars here have been playing with oils recently, so anyone got any tips/tricks/"Oh god why didn't I learn this sooner?" advice for working with them?


Not sure if the process works differently for minis, but for scale aircraft I tend to gloss varnish the whole thing, slap it on thick and then use a brush dampened in thinners (Winsor & Newton Sansodor) to 'sculpt' the oils into shape. But I tend to be doing rust streaks more than anything, so this is likely less applicable to minis. Stippling the oil on and then rubbing it off with a dry cotton bud is also another good technique for tinting an area or creating a thick build up (I use this for aircraft exhausts for example). Finally, for washing, you can use it the same as an acrylic - thinned so it runs into crevices, then a dampened brush to take off excess on high points (Oils are also great for getting super precise lines if you need them). Hope that gives you a place to start

EDIT: Forgot to mention. If varnishing, leave the oils to dry at least overnight. They need to 'offgas' (i.e the suspension medium needs to evaporate properly) before you seal them of you risk bubbling the varnish. Although, perhaps minis are so small this is rarely a problem. I don't know, but just to be safe I always leave it overnight.

As for my own entry, I'm about 80% done painting - but finishing up my Masters and a large aircraft project has set me waaaay back. I'm hoping I manage to finish on time, but likely not

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2021/06/24 19:17:22


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Made in gb
Thane of Dol Guldur





Bodt

 Paradigm wrote:
Not sure what I'm painting this month yet, but I just picked up a set of oil paints that I want to experiment with. I know a lot of the regulars here have been playing with oils recently, so anyone got any tips/tricks/"Oh god why didn't I learn this sooner?" advice for working with them?



It really depends how you wish to use them. If you're just using them for washes or weathering then grab some thinners and go, but if you want to use them for actual painting that a different story. Some advice from me would be to put the oils on a porous surface like cardboard or newspaper and let them wick for a while before use. This removes some of the oil and makes them easier to manipulate once they are applied to a surface. I normally squeeze some onto a bit of newspaper a few hours or even the day before I want to use them. When you come to them you'll see the oil stain on the paper in a circle around the paint blob.

Another thing to bear in mind is that if you're using them to paint transitions in colours etc is to do all your blends and transitions with the oils. You can apply the base layers I'm acrylic, but don't try to do acrylic transitions then glaze or blend over them with oils because once they dry you will be able to see lines of demarcation between the dissimilar layers, so apply an acrylic base layer, cover it totally with the corresponding oil colour, then do your oil blends.
   
Made in gb
Legendary Master of the Chapter





UK

Would you generally recommend an acrylic basecoat even if it's being covered wholly by the oils eventually, then? Does that add anything that just going over a primer doesn:t?

Thanks for the cardboard tip, I shall have to give that one a go. So far they've been working ok just out of the bottle with some thinners, but I shall see what difference it makes to dry them out a bit first.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2021/06/24 23:03:17


Paradigm's New Blog- 18/06- Geralt and Kratos

Available for Commission Work. PM me for details. 
   
Made in gb
Thane of Dol Guldur





Bodt

I find giving an acrylic basecoat makes laying down the colour easier because oils can be quite translucent and as you're manipulating the blends you don't want to take your surface down to primer by accident.

I found working with some oils straight out of the tubes, that they were too oily which made them hard to blend on the surfaces, and wicking them out for a bit solved this for me. It does seem that it depends on the brand and also the colour so some experimentation is required. Oils stay workable for ages though so removing some of the oil isn't an issue.

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