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 Vitruvian XVII wrote:
Guys lets not turn this into an IP discussion. Please dont drag this OT.

Vit as much as I can see you are trying to help by saying this is OT, it's honestly not, I've followed this thread from the beginning and this debate has raged for some time and it will honestly help Fiore out once it is settled as if he was able to sell it on he would make money back from the silicone.

Ovion wrote:It's a unique work inspired by something else, but not actually the IP of GW in any way whatsoever.

If they had an actual model for it, or held a trademark / copyright on 'Mars', 'Warlord', 'Titan', or this was a direct copy of artwork / models that GW had I could see it being an issue, but being not one part of this really has anything to do with GW in the realms of 'copyright' or IP infringement I don't see how there'd be an issue.

The reason GW went after Chapterhouse, is Chapterhouse was making models for Games Workshop units, that specifically attached to GW property and was using GW names.

Furthermore, the Chapterhouse lawsuit has been stretched out for so long due to the tenuous nature of it.

Wrong. Pleased read this, as it is GW's most current copyright disclaimer from 6th ed 40k rulebook:

mwnciboo wrote:

It doesn't matter if the model exists or not, that's the whole point of Intellectual Property (non-physical/ Intangible). The fact that Warlord Titan's exist, in both Models and in their stories etc etc. means you will have a hell of a job proving your work was unique, unless you give it a third leg or an extra arm.

IP is a minefield you cannot make broadbrush statements along the lines of "So long as it's Unique" you are fine. It's not, you need proper legal advice from a suitably qualified person and equally this can be contested at every step. Look at SAMSUNG and APPLE at the moment, you simply cannot just say "Tweak it abit, look it's original and unique now, therefore I can sell it as my own product". Utter nonsense.

As an artist I can attest to this, it is not minefield you want to walk into without protection. be very aware!!!

Haha, nice conversation... well, here's where I weigh in on this.

I know IP is complicated as is all the other forms of trademark type laws, and I really have no firsthand experience of it, nor any actual legal know how, so I'm not going pretend I'm definitely right. What I can look at is the history surrounding GW and this kind of law, largely with regards to other companies such as dream forge when he tried to produce his leviathan titans, and see what happened.

The tactic of games workshop as far as I can tell is to issue a cease and desist notice as soon as they see somebody is providing a model that could in anyway damage sales, such as a possible fear that the dreamforge titans would reduce the sales of forgweworld titans. (Because I think that I wil try to sell these, I plan to frame my cease and desist letter and hang it on my wall, whether or not I will actually stop I don't know.) If I get one of these I have a choice to either fold and stop, or to continue and await legal action.

I wouldn't want to see myself face what happened to dreamforge and lose a large amount of money and time in producing the casts for people only to be stopped before sale, but at the same time I do not wish to be involved in a legal battle with games workshop, irrelevant of how valid their case is. If I don't choose to stop I would be in the same situation as chapterhouse studios, facing a lawsuit. I believe that even if they have no case, and are aware that they have no case, they will still intend to take me to court. Probably in an attempt to bankrupt me or scare me off, I reckon chapterhouse are only okay given that they have a lawyer working pro-bono for them, I wouldn't have that and wouldn't be able to support any case against their lawsuit.

The validity of any trademark or IP claim is a whole other matter. It is true that I have designed this myself, but I have also quite plainly taken parts of my design from forgeworld models. The elements I think they would be able to cite for being too similar are probably the curved armour and edgings, as the rest is fairly generic. If I did sell it I wouldn't call it a mars pattern warlord titan, even though I doubt you could trademark that... Instead choosing something like 'new human war walker' just to be generic. This doesnt stop them trying to sue me though.

Ultimately, I'll try and cast to sell once it's completed, but it will likely result in a cease and desist notice, at which point I will probably stop. Even if this is the case I think I'll be happy to have a completed model, and only disappointed that I can't make some money from it and see other people paint them up or convert them.

So, writing what I promised to, how I'm going to improve/what i've learnt and where to next, first thing is I'm not going to use lego but try just welded styrene. Should be more watertight. I'm also going to try to use a sander without a sanding pad to vibrate the moulds when I'm making them or casting. Just a couple of minutes should knock some of the bubbles that formed in details like the rivets. To help with the bubbles I'm also going to try using some talcum powder on the mould and in the details before casting, if what I've read is right it should help with the bubbles. I'm also going to change the way I pour, I noticed that the rivets on the side were fine, but those on the top were bubbled. I think where they flowed into the rivets the bubbles were released but not where they flowed over. Another issue I had with the mould was leaking beneath or into gaps between parts. I'll try to use the plasticine to stop this around the base, but ensuring a good weld or using greenstuff/milliput/squadrongreenputty to seal any place I think will be problematic. Another thing I need to do is spend more time sanding down surfaces for a more polished surface, some are slightly scratchy. Using a milliput wash and a fine grade of sandpaper should help me out.

In terms of what's next, I'm going to make an extra piece of silicone to use as a void within the toe mould so that they are hollow, and I want to start the mould for the foot base too which will also have a piece of silicone to make it hollow. Besides reducing weight it will help save on cost. The next part I want to build is the calf inside, which I'll be making by hand as the acrylic tube supplier won't cut to the lengths I need. I also plan to order more materials in the next week, with a larger amount of silicone and resin as I'm happy with the finish so far on both the mould and cast. Updates to come later on.

Its good to hear your thoughts and they are very sound.

Of course, you can always put a very subtle hint in your sig (and i mean subtle sincerely) that directs people to PM you if they are interested

With regards to the sander, would that not be too powerful? My experience with those things is that they shake pretty damn heavily. You wouldnt want to send the silicone flying everywhere!

I think an electric sander might be a bit too violent for the task at hand.

I'm not sure if others have tried it, or what's reccomended, but last time I used an electric sander it was particularly vibratey, and quite strong.

Maybe just sitting it on top of an active washing machine? (I know it works for helping air bubbles out of pancake batter!)

Subtle hint you say, well, I had wondered how they'd be able to stop me selling them through private message, private sales must be much more difficult to stop. Might get done for if they find out though.

Well, it's not a full sander its a smaller detail sander, from running it slightly it seems good, and if it is too strong then I just need to put it a little further away to rock the surface rather than the mould. I could even clamp a piece of wood to the desk and apply it to that to transfer the shake, with dampening given by how far out from the table I decided to use it. I'm going to try a few things though and come back with the best, but I do want to attempt a vibrating table to get rid of bubbles if I can. The other plan is to make one using a motor and a lopsided weight on the axle.

 fiorehellheart wrote:
So, writing what I promised to, how I'm going to improve/what i've learnt and where to next, first thing is I'm not going to use lego but try just welded styrene. Should be more watertight. I'm also going to try to use a sander without a sanding pad to vibrate the moulds when I'm making them or casting. Just a couple of minutes should knock some of the bubbles that formed in details like the rivets. To help with the bubbles I'm also going to try using some talcum powder on the mould and in the details before casting, if what I've read is right it should help with the bubbles. I'm also going to change the way I pour, I noticed that the rivets on the side were fine, but those on the top were bubbled. I think where they flowed into the rivets the bubbles were released but not where they flowed over. Another issue I had with the mould was leaking beneath or into gaps between parts. I'll try to use the plasticine to stop this around the base, but ensuring a good weld or using greenstuff/milliput/squadrongreenputty to seal any place I think will be problematic. Another thing I need to do is spend more time sanding down surfaces for a more polished surface, some are slightly scratchy. Using a milliput wash and a fine grade of sandpaper should help me out.

In terms of what's next, I'm going to make an extra piece of silicone to use as a void within the toe mould so that they are hollow, and I want to start the mould for the foot base too which will also have a piece of silicone to make it hollow. Besides reducing weight it will help save on cost. The next part I want to build is the calf inside, which I'll be making by hand as the acrylic tube supplier won't cut to the lengths I need. I also plan to order more materials in the next week, with a larger amount of silicone and resin as I'm happy with the finish so far on both the mould and cast. Updates to come later on.

I wouldn't advise the styrene method, but tbh, trying it won't hurt, but, it does require a risk in wastage of silicone... something I wouldn't risk personally. I suggest sticking with Lego, but take some standard wet clay and thinly spread it on the interior of the retaining walls and that will act as a seal. its cheap enough and you can get plenty of it. as I said before though I do suggest getting a lego tray like the one in the image below as I have seen people use them and have little to no wastage or seepage



yeah cost saving measure will be well worth it in the end if you do manage to avoid all legal loopholes to be able to sell it. Good luck




Automatically Appended Next Post:

 fiorehellheart wrote:
Subtle hint you say, well, I had wondered how they'd be able to stop me selling them through private message, private sales must be much more difficult to stop. Might get done for if they find out though.

Well, it's not a full sander its a smaller detail sander, from running it slightly it seems good, and if it is too strong then I just need to put it a little further away to rock the surface rather than the mould. I could even clamp a piece of wood to the desk and apply it to that to transfer the shake, with dampening given by how far out from the table I decided to use it. I'm going to try a few things though and come back with the best, but I do want to attempt a vibrating table to get rid of bubbles if I can. The other plan is to make one using a motor and a lopsided weight on the axle.

Oh and as far as the sander goes, so long as you can vary the settings on it and turn it to low I shouldn't see a problem for it tbh. but the age old technique of tapping it works too

I have plenty of those base plates, and I'd be inclined to use them if it werent for the leaking through the sides too. I'll order some clay with the next lot of silicone and resin, but for now I'm going to give the styrene a go before I get some delivered, I really do love the material...

One downside to the baseplate is that it will leave dimples on the bottom of the mould, which is okay for two part moulds, but for the toe mould I need a flat surface. The last step after pouring the resin is to wait a few minutes before placing a flat sheet of plastic over the top to give a smooth edge and remove excess, which is why on mine the edges were pulled up flat due to the surface tension as there was too little. This wouldn't work with the lego baseplate.

The sander isnt variable, but as you say, tapping worked okay for the first cast, and for the silicone so I'm not too hugely fussed.

 fiorehellheart wrote:
I have plenty of those base plates, and I'd be inclined to use them if it werent for the leaking through the sides too. I'll order some clay with the next lot of silicone and resin, but for now I'm going to give the styrene a go before I get some delivered, I really do love the material...

One downside to the baseplate is that it will leave dimples on the bottom of the mould, which is okay for two part moulds, but for the toe mould I need a flat surface. The last step after pouring the resin is to wait a few minutes before placing a flat sheet of plastic over the top to give a smooth edge and remove excess, which is why on mine the edges were pulled up flat due to the surface tension as there was too little. This wouldn't work with the lego baseplate.

The sander isnt variable, but as you say, tapping worked okay for the first cast, and for the silicone so I'm not too hugely fussed.

Why not roll a thin sheet of clay to line the plate with, then you have both the dimples problem solved and the item your casting will have something to adhere to and won't run the risk of floating up into the silicone (I did this once, it was both horrifying and amusing lols)

Or you could just give the New human walkers away and in return recieve a "donation" for your efforts.

as there is no actual sale just a friendly gesture from one friend to another.

also on the moulding container, couldnt you just use something like this?

i'm not 100% but it seems like a good idea to me, as i've been considering doing some moulding myself, but i haven't put the money forward for it yet, although i've found a fairly cheap supplier that i plan on using.

also you can keep me on ur list of donators. as i think GW can shove it in their tesseract labrynth.

 AnUnearthlyChilde wrote:

 Ovion wrote:

 mwnciboo wrote:

 bibblles wrote:
So are you going to set up an assembly line for these and sell them at massive profit?

I would recommend against it, from a legal standpoint.

Why not?
I personally see no problems whatsoever.

A: This is a completely unique model, he designed it from scratch. He has built it from scratch. This is all his own personal IP. Call it a Mars Asault mech and there is officially no link to GW whatsoever.

B: There is no official Warlord Titan model available regardless, so there's no clash in properties, but as stated above - it's all his own personal, unique IP anyway.

Its not a question of whether GW produces a model of this kind... its to do with intellectual property as well as image likeness, and as he has based the look of it on the mars pattern or at least the legs being similar to the image in the apocalypse book there is infringement of intellectual property there... hence why Chapterhouse is having ongoing issues with GW as GW is suing the pants off of them...

You mean in the court case which GW is going to lose, badly? Yeah, I think both Chapterhouse and the OP will be fine.

Oooh, where can I find those, do I just search for transparent paint cans or something? Whilst I wouldn't cast in them, I would like something like that to mix in, with a substantial volume, it's annoying having to do multiple pours for a mould. but yea, I think 'donations' might be the way forward...

Yea, I think they will lose, but it'll take ages to be sorted. As I said though, I don't have the finances to support a legal battle with them, I'm going off to uni in october, and that's going to cost me a lot because of all the stuff I need to buy beforehand. as mentioned, I'll be appreciating 'donations' I think...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FQ1A7ZjTsx8&feature=pyv&ad=5385445946&kw=%22mold%20making%22


Here's a vid that i think is decent for a cheap mould box idea. and yeah they're just plastic clear paint containers.

 Yodhrin wrote:

 AnUnearthlyChilde wrote:

 Ovion wrote:

 mwnciboo wrote:

 bibblles wrote:
So are you going to set up an assembly line for these and sell them at massive profit?

I would recommend against it, from a legal standpoint.

Why not?
I personally see no problems whatsoever.

A: This is a completely unique model, he designed it from scratch. He has built it from scratch. This is all his own personal IP. Call it a Mars Asault mech and there is officially no link to GW whatsoever.

B: There is no official Warlord Titan model available regardless, so there's no clash in properties, but as stated above - it's all his own personal, unique IP anyway.

Its not a question of whether GW produces a model of this kind... its to do with intellectual property as well as image likeness, and as he has based the look of it on the mars pattern or at least the legs being similar to the image in the apocalypse book there is infringement of intellectual property there... hence why Chapterhouse is having ongoing issues with GW as GW is suing the pants off of them...

You mean in the court case which GW is going to lose, badly? Yeah, I think both Chapterhouse and the OP will be fine.

That just seems like your opinion and conjecture, unless you have some substantial hard facts to back up your statement?

Ahh, progress. I've noticeable stumbled somewhat. In the past couple of weeks I've been sent my vacation work for uni when I begin, so that's been taking up some of my time. It's not easy starting a 1000 page maths book, I also want to try to read through at least volume 1 of the feynman lectures on physics which will also soak up a lot of time. All this means my education is taking precedent over my hobby again, but it's necessary for me to do well. I'm not going to stop completely, not at the hobby at least. The titan is going to remain somewhat untouched for a while now. I've largely lost my motiviation to work on it for extended amounts of time, so I'm going to start another project that I've always wanted to work on. A spacehulk board inspired by this fantastic one that's been in my inspirations links for years. http://spacehulk.beckerf.de/

The hope is that I'll be able to work a small amount on this and wait until I feel motivated to do another rush on the titan, which I expect when I come back from uni around christmas. For now I'm just experiencing shiny model syndrome and will probably swap back to wanting to work on the titan soon, but until then I'm doing a half height version of the spacehulk in the link. Whilst I plan to include different wall styles I am going to do a very similar hulk but with a different plan for making the parts. I'm going to make a mock up in paper to test sizes first, but once that's figured I'll make the masters and cast copies in resin, then from those I'll make corridor moulds and cast into those with plaster to save on cost. I'll update if I get any progress done but thought it was time I at least posted to say what's going on with the titan and my lack of progress.

Richard Feynman, a god among men. Maybe you call this "Walker" a Feynman Class.

Hey, we haven't forgotten about you fiorehellheart, keep plugging away at this ambitious project! A rivet a day would be nice

I'm guessing he's back at University.

Me2. Just reminding him for when he gets back.

amazing titan work!

Been following your work, and im interested are you using any kind of vacuum extractor on the silicone or on the resin. As i know how much of a pain air bubbles are.

Hey guys, sorry about the complete lack of work or update for the past few weeks. as mwnciboo guessed, I've moved down to oxford and have started university. Apologies for the lack of any work in the week or two before I left, but I was quite busy both packing and attempting to re-learn the lost knowledge of 3 months time off. After getting here I've also been really busy with my freshers week and now I'm a week after that into lectures I've got a little bit of time to remember you guys and say thanks for posting whilst I was gone, it was nice of you and I appreciate it.

Unfortunately I'm not going to be able to work on the model at all for the next 7 weeks. I return home on the 1st of december, and as that's where all of my titan currently resides, along with hobby stuff, so you can wait until then. However, I would be happy to answer any questions anybody has, but I think that in the interests of you guys actually getting replies, I'd like this thread to be locked and to have a PM if you want anything. It should send me an email to tell me you have messaged, which should mean I can reply soon, but that depends on my workload here, it comes first as I hope you can appreciate.

I will also promise you a reply on the 1st of december, an update as I return home for christmas. If I don't then just PM me a load so I'm spammed with emails, this is fine if I haven't replied to the thread On my return I hope to be able to get a decent amount of work done, possibly starting the body, but that will also depend on the amount of vacation work I'm given. I'll do my best though!

In reply to those that posted, Thanks demetri as usual, and thanks rogue wolves too, always nice to see a new commenter. Cjharrisman, I haven't used a vacuum or pressure, which has really caused me a number of problems and is why I want to wait until I've completed a master model so that I can cast it properly. I'm fine without a vacuum, but could do with a pressure pot, the only problem then is that under pressure any air in the silicone will crush down and warp the mould, so that needs to be under a vacuum when I cure the silicone. I guess you know this already, unless the bubbles you talk about are the 'fine'cast ones, in which case I hope somebody else finds it interesting.

The last thing I'll leave you with is a picture from the window of my new home:

It does tend to make me want to make an imperator though, seeing my castley/churchey college hall across the gardens...

-Rory

So, this post is a long time coming, but better late than never.

I've been quite busy of the past 5 months, with two terms of uni and Christmas so didn't get a chance to do any work on the titan like I had planned to. This break is different and I have 4 or 5 weeks in which to work as much on the titan as I can before I head back to uni. Later on I'll need to start doing uni preparation work but for at least the next couple of weeks, I'm fairly free to do as much as I can physically manage.

I think I'll have a quick recap of where I am and what I plan to do, just for people that have skipped ahead and for others who've forgotten. To build my titan I decided that I would construct a number of master/prototype parts. From these prototypes any pieces that need to be copied, say for example the legs, for a left and right, will be cast from the prototypes. If I'm able to I would like to make molds of all of the titan so that I can build more than one/sell a few on. Before uni I'd managed 'to complete most of the leg structure prototypes. I had the foot, toes, heel, ankle, a half completed shin plate, and the thigh of the titan. For the legs I had left to do, the back of the shin plate, the thigh plate, the knee, top shin joint and armour connectors.

In the first few days that I've been back I had a think about how I was building the shin plate. For all of this log so far I've persisted in wanting to use the filer method for the armour plates. I decided to accept I might be wrong though and tried to build a shin armour plate out of plasticard when I got back from uni. This is for a few reasons, mostly time given that the filler was taking a long time to complete, but also cost as the filler is expensive. Building that part was successful and showed that I could build other curved parts like that so shouldn't spend as much on filler, which is good. To build it in plasticard I did pretty much the same as before in terms of internal structure. A number of increasing radius braces with a wall in the middle giving strength. to align the frame properly, a problem I had with the previous version, I glued the piece down onto a small cutting matt so that it didn't shift around. This was much much better than before and could easily be removed afterwards and the superglue marks sanded down. after releasing the frame I had a tricky job to do in wrapping the plasticard around and gluing it down, this was much easier that it could have been, with small clamps. After the initial plating was on it was easy to complete the edging of the part too. Overall the part took me about a day and a half, compared to the week + that I'd spent on the other version it was much better, I even forgot to take progress photos because I building quickly.




Having completed the shin plate I decided to move onto the part that was preventing me from assembling a mock up of the leg, the top shin joint. Before I start this though I needed to build the cylinder that comprises the knee joint. Cylinders have been something I've struggled with in the past, but I had a brainwave this time round. I constructed myself a jig consisting of a pair of parallel straight edged plates, at an angle, fixed a specific distance apart. This means that when I rest any circle or cylinder, with a diameter bigger than my gap, on the jig the centre will lie in a specific line. Provided I've taken care to cut out the same sized circles then it allows me to produce a much more accurately aligned cylinder than I had managed before. The straight edge is also useful in wrapping the completed internal structure as it allows pressure to be put evenly along a line, something I struggled to do earlier. This was really helpful at the seam where I got a fairly smooth join. Unfortunately the second layer of wrapping onto the cylinder was thicker, so the joins are very visible. This shouldnt be a problem however as by incorporating the cylinder into the top shin part, I can hide the seam line.






For the patterning and the style of the cylinder I using the warhound joints for a lot of the inspiration. The main body has a similar ridged central part and smooth outside sections. For the caps I also used a similar raised circle to the warhounds, but embellished mine with a cog and different rivet placements. On the ankle caps I had an edging on the detail similar to the knee caps. For those I had cut a thin strip of plasticard, and joined the ends of the strip square to create a loop. For these caps I was much more successful in beveling the start of the strip, wrapping it around the part, and then over the bevelled edge. I then sanded the overlap down so that it was almost a uniform thickness all around with next to no seam. I tried to get a decent picture of the wrapping, but my phone's camera isnt good enough at macro. I think that sometime in the next few weeks I will try and borrow a dslr from a friend to take a few high res macro shots to show the detail better. Forgive the current images, as I've adjusted the contrast and colours to bring out the details.







That's all I've been up to in the last few days, but will be starting on continuing as much as I can. I hope to be able to begin part of the body before heading back to uni. Next up though is finishing of the toshin joint with the new cylinder, and starting the back shin armour, and thigh armour, with connectors. After that it will just be the waist/hip before the body.

You an Architecture Student?

I realise that some might hate me for this statement BUT as someone who has been through uni I would heavily recomend that you do the uni work first then do the hobby stuff if you have any time left over, maybe limit yourself to an hour a day or something but the uni work should come first....

This counts doubly in the modern era because Student fees are "Immoral".

Wow this is like the most ambitious project I've ever seen!

That is one sturdy looking titan!

I'm a physics student, not architecture, although I do have an interest. I'm studying in oxford, something I'm proud of and find the gothic building great as inspiration for an imperator. For ages I've wanted to make one as an updated version of the classic dreamforge leviathan, the one with a church on the back. But I've never liked the look of the roofs on that model, but I've seen a perfect style that I want though just wandering to and from lectures. The fee's are a lot and I know that I have to work hard. I've done my usual promising start and stalling in the last couple of weeks partly because I have been working as well as trying to make my model too.

Thanks Karokk, and I'll take that as a compliment Commander Cain. You should like the next update, it's blue tacked together and looks very sturdy indeed. I'll get around to posting that soon for you guys, Thanks.

I've finaly returned from uni, got back my grades and got through to next year. it's just a little under 4 months until I go back, so I should probably be able to get a couple of those with decent amounts of progress. Already I've done a fair amount this past week so I'll just go ahead with the pictures.

First up is some non titan work that I've done. I think I talked about my love for spacehulk before now and I'm going to try and build a set as a little side project. Something to break up the titan monotony. I built these with 30mm tiles, as I felt that 25 was too small for modern terminators, and 40mm was large and would make the whole board much bigger. The plan is for the same style corridors and then mostly the same style rooms to start off with, but having some customised once I start to cast the floors up. The detail is some braided cable that I wound with a drill. I'll upload a picture of the room that I've built so far on the next update.





I did this work months ago, before I started the last term, but never updated. It's the progress on the leg armour, specifically the rear of the large shin plate and the thigh plate. I detailed it using most sheet with rivet detail but also used some textured plasticard scrap I had. That's at the lower part of the armour, just for extra interest. The back parts of most of the armour pieces will be detailed in similar ways, alhtought I might add some access hatches. The thigh armour was built in the same way the shin armour, using cross section pieces that have a spaced reinforcer, that is then wrapped with sheet. I've also done the plating on the shin part this past week. All that remains for it is the rear detail and the mounting spacers to attach it to the leg.








I had also begun work on the rear parts of the shin armour. These are two extra armour parts mounted alongside the front shin plate, that continue the curve of the armour. I only got as far as the the left part on the second piece, when I felt thet they were too short. I added a large trim which added some extra length, but have only finished these parts this week by adding the edges to the part and creating the start of the mounting pieces.I'll try to get a picture in the next update of the parts on the leg so you can see how the cutaway parts show the back of the leg, where I will eventually hope to add a large visible piston. The last picture is just to show how the style for the armour plates is generally consistent.








Whilst at uni I had access to a printer so I was able to print and construct a mock up for the head. I was worried about the scale as it's not huge in my current plans and I thought that the crew might not be able to fit within. I wanted to avoid the ehad looking too large, a small head should make it look taller by slightly forcing perspective, in the same way that towers are often tapered.

After calculating the sizes of the cockpits for the reaver and warhound I think that the cockpit is still well sized, which was confirmed when I ordered the pilot figures. I chose to use the pilots of sentinals, they are fairly plain and have steering rigs already. The current arrangement planned is the princeps amniotic casket in the front of the head, where there is more room for a larger tank, with the moderati and steersman in the back of the head. I figured they could take advantage of the access to the body most, and the princeps is installed before the titan is sealed up anyway.





To build the curved surface of the head, I built the plasticard angular structure and then backed the inside with milliput at the corners. When I sanded away the corners of the structure is left a curved surface that was still strong. Once that was done I built the inside up before I remembered to take a picture. The curved sides were then glued on to form the wall of the head armour, which is the latest stage I'm at.







The most immediate stages I'll be attempting are:
- Finishing the head. I need to fill the gaps in the armour and complete the edging, but also build the interior of the head and create the princeps.
- Finishing the legs. So far to finish the legs proper, I need to correctly align the armour mounting for the rear shin armour and back both the shin armour and thigh armour fully. I may also decide to re-build the ankle joint in favor for a more stylish ball joint with better range of motion.
- Coat parts with primer. I'm going to start spraying parts with a grey spray paint as it should allow me to see faults better, and give some easier to shoot pictures than the white glare plastic.

If anybody has any comments or question, please ask away.

Thanks
-Rory

Rory, sorry I thought you were an Architecture Student due to the huge amounts of Plasticard you had access to...(A bad joke based on my own experiences at Uni - Architecture Students were given thousands of pounds of this stuff for model making but then they were at University for 7 years so you need something to do).

Nice work, looking very good.