With the dawn of a new year, I've decided to make another attempt at resurrecting my beleaguered hobby. Inspired in part (probably mostly) by the plethora of Dakka P&M blogs with impressive 2019 in review updates and 2020 plans that I have been lurking on. Attempt one last year (my Imperial Knights) had the right "idea" of reducing the scope, but I think something got lost in the implementation. I've also been distracted (and will continue to be) by an unrelated non hobby project. I also only have access to my hobby 50% of the time at current, but that will go up to 75% in April.
So, what exactly is the plan?
I've been playing some Warhammer Underworlds, and will take possession of Rippa's Snarlfangs shortly as a belated Christmas present. (I also have Ironskull's Boyz). And just because by hobby has been on hiatus doesn't mean my pile of shame hasn't been, or will continue to be, increasing. I took part in the Limbo Kickstarter which is due to deliver soon... I discovered last year that my paints are in various conditions of usability, and of course, there have been a few changes to the paint range since I last picked up a brush in earnest.
So this is going to be part journey of discovery and rediscovery, part motivation, and probably a lot more paint and less modelling than those that may have followed on with my previous endeavours might expect.
To start with, I'll be exploring the fine art of paint stripping - as I attempt to strip the paint from some old metal minis that I lost interest in decades ago due to a bad primer. From there, I hope to move to paint experimentation on those minis in preparation for tackling Rippa's Snarlfangs and (some of) Limbo. With a bit of luck that might inspire me to revisit my Imperial Knights and Orks - but we'll see how we go.
I warmly invite you to join me on the journey (and prod me where necessary!)
PS. I also plan to eventually move this post to the third post below and use this as "current state of the journey" - but that may be planning a little too far ahead at this stage
I'm sure I will, although my initial goal is to strip, experiment, repeat.
Scrub number two. Mostly close to perfect. I was a little disappointed the Chaos Champion, Chaos Thug and Thug (far left, bottom to top) didn't seem to progress any further with the extra day. I think I need either a stiffer brush or to take a toothpick to some of the crevices. Hopefully I haven't diluted my Methylated Spirits already.
I doubled up on gloves on my left hand, but using pliers to hold the miniature by the tab resulted in no holes today. I found my "disposable" mask and protective glasses, so other than looking like a thug, things felt a lot safer today.
Giving the five good ones one last day to soak. I will see what I can do to assist the other three... then I probably need to start thinking about priming and my first paint experiments...
Underworlds is mad fun. I convinced the missus to play it with me and she started to thoroughly enjoy it after she realised she could kick my arse. That Mollog is a brutal bastard.
Regarding the stripping. You seem to have things in hand, but I thought I'd throw in my observations.
IPA is my go to now for plastics. It's safe on plastics, it's quick acting, it's effective and you get quite a few minis stripped before it starts to lose it's mojo.
Nail polish remover is the best for metals though i've found. IPA works very well too, but the acetone just edges it out.
And don't worry, i'll remind you about your knights! I'm super keen to see you finish them off.
Looking forward to seeing you lay some paint down on those chaos boys.
I enjoy Underworlds, although I haven't played much. More than 8th Edition 40K, but that is setting the bar fairly low Mostly "practise" games against my brother (his competition practise), who is a lot more into it. Still, I managed to slide into 16th in a Grand Clash last year (out of 30, my brother made 10th, and beat me in a pairing of course), using borrowed, well, everything.
I struggle to find a middle point in gaming and hobbies. I tend to be all in or nothing. At this point I'm closer to nothing on Underworlds, trying to avoid all in and the additional plastic shame
Is IPA worth the extra cost? It was my next stop if the MS didn't pan out. They are still soaking, but more because I've been busy. And I haven't bought toothpicks yet. But I have remembered I have a "custom" scuplting tool with a fine point...
Anyway, on with the blog...
Next week I lose access to my hobby (travel) but will hopefully take posession of Rippa's Snarlfangs (present). I went looking through my pile of shame for "closer" miniatures to practise on, and this is what I found:
.. and Orc Boars (minus the Boys - well, I found the boys, but I don't need them for practising just now. Also, they are missing the arm that attaches to the boar for some reason)
I doubt I will get to these before I leave, but I may just take them with me and see if I can clean them up / assemble them in readiness for the week after.
I also need to start looking into paint. I may be able to sort some of that out next week too. I'm thinking a "realistic" paint job - wolves inspired by nature, a patchwork of different shades of leather, rusted metal weapons and shields. I suspect the focal point will end up being the bright green of the goblins. If I ever painted an "inspired" version I think I'd go bright Roman soldier colours (how I imagine the goblins *think* they look).
With the IPA, I did find it to be worth the cost. It cost like $25 for half a litre and I think so far, i've stripped uhh.... 120+ minis with it, and it's still got some kick left in it.
Wouldn't have got anywhere near the same amount out of the equivalent of the likes of Simple Green. Plus the IPA has the advantage of being quick acting. I was letting plastics sit for half hour and then scrubbing paint right off, where Simple Green was minimum 24 hours if not longer for some things.
With the wolfies. A pack of black wolves would be stunning. And would be well worth the effort invested in them. I really like the red wolves though. They're almost dingo like.
If you're feeling reeeeeally adventurous you could try something like this...
Well, I'll see how I go with my $4.50/L methylated spirits ($4 if I'd bought the non violet one - doh ) given I've already paid for that, and give the IPA a go next .
I have a plastic test case ready to go - I'll time it at 30m and see how it compares:
I'll see how I go with my test models before committing to three black wolves. I'll be happy to include one. On the plus side, they shouldn't draw attention from the riders. Speaking of which - test models are assembled awaiting primer:
With reference to your linked example, not so "not adventurous" so much as "not the direction I was planning to go". Nicely done though. It does suffer from the brighter wolf drawing the eye over the darker smaller rider, which I'm trying to avoid...
Anyway - I hope to have some paint on the above soon. Rippa's Snarlfangs have arrived, so they need assembly. I had hoped not to have to make any customisations to Rippa's Snarlfangs, but there is just one element I can't abide by... (anyone want to try to guess?)
Also, calling 5 of 8 metals done. Last three I've started poking with a toothpick, which is succeeding in moving some of the paint caught in the gaps, but we aren't 100% there yet (so still bathing, for lack of a better place to store currently).
Glad that you decided to get back to the hobby!
Good write up regarding the stripping process! It's always interesting to see how the different chemicals work.
I have had some success with Fairy Power Spray. It just takes a while (1-2 days) to remove most of the paint.
Anyway, it's always hard work to remove all the paint. Especially on models that have been primed multiple times, like the ones I got from a friend.
I should be putting Mean-eye together, and perhaps I will after this, but instead I'm providing this update .
@JoshInJapan: Well, they've only ever had that one base coat from, probably, 1992? So they are basically "new" . I think they came in random packs. I'm pretty sure I used to buy whatever I could find with "Chaos" on it back then, as I started in Warhammer Fantasy with a Chaos army... Not a lot of availability back then on the West side of Oz... (or at least as far as I recall...)
@youwashock: They do. Dissapointed I managed to get rid of my Orks from that time period. Now happy I failed to get rid of anything else . If I can work out what to do with them, I'll ressurect more...
@Ezki: Welcome! Glad to be back, albeit still ramping back up again. Thankfully I think all of my strip targets are self inflicted.
@Snrub: It's got a bit of the white undercoat still on it, but yes, I was very happy with how it came up in 30m. (I actually have an untarnished one to compare it to as well).
So, I haven't been up to much. The week back at home has been waylaid by home improvements. But I do have a little progress to share.
First up - the one modification I had to make to Rippa's Snarlfangs:
Rippa Narkbad's base - before.
Rippa Narkbad's base - after.
Together, but with a small gap down the snout I'm going to have to attempt to fill with liquid greenstuff (as well as the other seam lines). I don't think I applied enough / any plastic glue in the snout, so no amount of pushing together really helped. These miniatures are a lot smaller / more delicate than I had assumed they would be. My brother also alerted me (afterwards) that the pegs of Underworlds miniatures can sometimes be a little too long - so I'll cut them down a bit on the next two as well, just in case.
So much for Mean-eye. I promised myself as part of my 2020 hobby resurrection year I would enter the Dakka Painting Challenge once the annual rotation kicked off. It has still managed to sneak up on me, but here we are. I'll only have two weeks available this month (three from next month) - so we'll see how I go. Luckily I have this Dark Vengeance Dark Angels Terminator that I prepared five (probably more) years ago. Unluckily I undercoated it black back then. He has been de-dusted for his "proof" picture.
It's supposed to be layered on, not drybrushed . I obviously need to work more on my transistions. I'm hoping that this is a practise and patience thing. This is the first model I have painted in a long time...
This is just a repeat of the previous step - a 1:1 mix of Screaming Skull and Ushabti Bone - but all over rather than just the edges. I figured I need to get closer to white, and I still have pure Screaming Skull and a mix to pure White Scar available to me for edge highlighting. (Although I'm waiting on delivery of the White Scar plus other colours for the other areas.)
Steps to here spoilered below:
Last pure Zandri Dust layer.
Seraphim Sepia wash.
Re-apply Zandri Dust.
1:1 Zandri Dust and Ushabti Bone
1:1 Ushabti Bone and Screaming Skull pictured before, just the edges.
I've also started playing with base colours for fur, specifically:
Doombull Brown, Dryad Bark, Jokaero Orange, Mechanicus Standard Grey, Mournfang Brown, Rhinox Hide, Steel Legion Drab, Zandri Dust.
On Skull White base.
On Mechanicus Standard Grey base.
On Chaos Black base. (Looks like this one needs at least another layer...)
@JoshInJapan: Yes, layering looks better in real life. You can see every mistake in the full size uploaded images though. Good for finding room for improvement, not worth dwelling on. I keep telling myself, this *is* the first miniature I've painted in, five years or more? It doesn't need to be perfect (and has no chance of being either.)
@monkeytroll: Good to be active again, and welcome back to you too! I see you have entered the Dakka Painting Challenge as well - good luck . Hopefully the stripey tusked overlords will get some more love soon, if only so I can decide what undercoat to use on Rippa's Snarlfangs (although so far, Mechanicus Standard Grey is looking pretty good...)
@Gitsplitta: Welcome! Your entertainment is obviously the super secret primary goal of this thread . There will be no Bushido though . I plan to also join the Fight the Pile of Shame in 2020, which mostly amounts to *stop purchasing*.
Latest progress on the Deathwing Terminator:
Bone completed. Starting base colours on details - Leadbelcher, Mephiston Red, Mechanicus Standard Grey, Rakarth Flesh (I'm waiting on Caliban Green to arrive this week....)
This was going to be the last update for the week, and I was just happy to finish the bone before heading back up to the big smoke. However, my work has decided I may continue working from home next week, so I am feeling optimistic on finishing on time (before end of month.)
As I basecoat the detail areas, I just keep finding more and more detail - he has feathers on his right foot, a sheathed dagger under his right arm and purity seals *everywhere*.
Thinking about a Necromunda blue base - althought silver / bronze would probably be safer - any thoughts?
Progress steps from last time in spoiler (with many step by step progress pics):
Pure Screaming Skull layer.
Screaming Skull/Skull White 2:1 edge highlights.
Screaming Skull/Skull White 1:1 edge highlights towards all points, raised edges.
Pure Skull White on just the points. This completes the bone armour. Amazingly, I've used a base coat brush for all of this (except the Seraphim Sepia wash, which was with a wash brush.)
Start of base coating detail areas - Leadbelcher, Mephiston Red and Mechanicus Standard Grey. I had to break out my fine detail brush for the eyes and targeter(?), and my starter brush for the other areas edges.
Looking like the Terminator will become a triumphant return! Really nice blends between the layers. I’m liking the step by step pics in the spoilers too, it’s good getting an insight in to how others work
The termie is coming along nicely and I feel your pain about painting bone. Not that it's much use to you know, but I know some people throw a layer of mid-tone brown between the black undercoat and first bone layer. Helps give it an intermdiate stage and helps with shading later on.
But those DV models are super detailed, there's bits to paint everywhere.
A Blue or blue-grey base would nicely for him I think. Give a bit of contrast to the bone. Even better if you haven't used blue else where on him.
As far as the boars go, I'm inclined towards the black undercoat. But then I prefer darker, "realistic" paint jobs. So YMMV of course. For actual fur colour though, I'd be using a couple of differen colours. Stick with the brown or two and then throw in an orange or a tan every now and again to break things up.
I'm sensing some Jekyll and Hyde? (although that link probably is a black undercoat...)
@Briancj - Thanks and welcome!
@gobert - Thanks. While I mainly provide step by step instructions and pictures for my future self, I do greatly appreciate it when I come across it in other blogs too for the same reason. It's quite a bit of extra work though, so I fully understand why everyone doesn't do it!
@monkeytroll - Thanks.
@Snrub - Thanks. I still have the other four terminators, three of which are similiarly prepared (just not the duplicate), so still time to throw a layer of mid-tone brown on the next one. Even then, the advice wouldn't be wasted - who knows who else might be in a similar situation? I'm still up for the blue/blue-grey base. It is actually constructed with broken tiles and I have been wondering what to put beneath - black, brown, or currently thinking a dark metallic - and maybe hazard stripes across the thin border... As for the boars, I need to put another layer over the black so each base coat is working from the same foundation. I'll then be trying different colour combinations on top of each to work out which I prefer - so never fear - they were never going to remain a single colour .
And now, to the progress segment.
I received my Caliban Green, and now I think everything (except the stormbolter casing, which is waiting on finishing the the stormbolter metal, oh and the dagger tassel, I think that's it...) has been base coated. The purity seal parchments required multiple layers of Rakarth Flesh to cover the black, but most of the rest went over in one to two layers, although I'll probably give the purity seal seals another coat of Screamer Pink. Some Abbaddon Black in the joints too. The Caliban Green, Leadbelcher and Mechanicus Standard Grey has all been washed with Nuln Oil, while the purity seal parchment and Balthasar Gold has had an Agrax Earthshade wash. I'm leaving the Mephiston Red until I get the stormbolter casing done. It is really starting to come together now.
Finer progress steps and pictures in the spoiler.
Many layers of Rakarth Flesh on the purity seal parchments.
Caliban Green! (and Balthasar Gold.)
All the washes. (The Caliban Green, Leadbelcher and Mechanicus Standard Grey has all been washed with Nuln Oil, while the purity seal parchment and Balthasar Gold has had an Agrax Earthshade wash.)
I really appreciate blogs that include experimenting and working through problems! I'm impressed by the thought going into the fur design for the wolves.
As has been said, and warrants saying again: Dark Angel looking fab. In particular, your painting is very neat - you clearly have really tight brush control (this is also evident on the boars' stripes). Impressive that it was all done with a layer brush!
@CommissarKhaine: Welcome back! An Orky Dark Angel would not be found dead in such a clean, unkustomised piece of kit!
@Don Qui Hotep: Welcome! Brush control - or patience - must come with age. Either that or I am suitably rested from my long break in the hobby . Hopefully I can get back to the boars before the next round of the monthly competition. Thank you.
@monkeytroll: Indeed, and thank you.
I think I'm done! Well, apart from getting some proper photos / trialling the lightbox I bought ages ago.
Progression pictures (and what I remember of the steps, lots of small steps across many areas!) in the spoiler:
Building up the green (Caliban Green / Warpstone Glow.) First base coat of Mephiston Red on the stormbolter. Leadbelcher on the base.
Building up the green, (Warpstone Glow), Purity Seals (Rakarth Flesh / Pallid Wych Flesh, Screamer Pink / Pink Horror, and Crux Terminatus (Mechanicus Standard Grey / Skavenblight Dinge). Probably missed the wash stages of these (in my notes, not the mini!) - Nuln Oil, Agrax Earthshade, Nuln Oil. I Must have done the metal by now too - Nuln Oil, Leadbelcher and then Stormhost Silver. More layers of Mephiston Red.
Green is finished with Warpstone Glow / Moot Green (couldn't bring myself to go to pure Moot Green). Washed red with old Asurmen Blue wash (a trick I remember from my Orks).
Keep bringing up the Purity Seals mixing in White Scar (to Pallid Wych Flesh) and Emperor's Children (to Pink Horror). Do the tie on the dagger in the same parchment colours. Base the feathers in Pallid Wych Flesh.
Purity Seals complete up to White Scar and Emperor's Children. Crux Terminatus complete up to Stormvermin Fur. Mephiston Red through Evil Sunz Scarlet to Wild Rider Red 1:1 edge highlights on stormbolter.
Additional metal and bronze areas complete. Caliban Green on feathers, Nuln Oil wash, highlight with Pallid Wych Flesh and Warpstone Glow. Start base starting with Macragge Blue and Averland Sunset. That's the only new blue I seem to have, so mix with rescued Regal Blue, pure Regal Blue, mix with Shadow Grey then pure Shadow Grey.
Stormbolter swords in Leadbelcher, Nuln Oil, Leadbelcher, Stormhost Silver. Bronze is Balthasar Gold, Agrax Earthshade, Balthasar Gold, Gehenna's Gold, Auric Armur Gold (didn't bother with mixes given how small the areas are.)
Dirtying up the base, adding hazard stripes.
Completed the base with various washes - Nuln Oil, Agrax Earthshade, Serapim Sepia, stippled black over the hazard stripes, did the rim in Macragge Blue. Gloss Varnish for the lens.
On today's episode, I will attempt to prepare better photos for judging in the competition / gallery. The best of which may be seen above.
First, thank you Gitsplitta, monkeytroll and Snrub for stopping by with your comments.
I knew where my lightbox was (not a given), but I thought I would also seek out my Dreadfleet drop cloth as it would probably make for a good background. Little did I know, I was also to discover...
...long lost styrene supplies (and model kit instructions) - bonus!
Here is my lightbox, packed up as it has been for over three (possibly eight?) years.
Unpacked. I know it is less than eight years old, as it has Australian and not UK power plugs . I had forgotten it comes with different back drop colours, so I may not need the Dreadfleet cloth afterall. There are also a few other pieces that I think may have just been packed with it during a move and are not related at all.
The lightbox set up, including my painting light for a third light source. I didn't seem to be having much luck with the light sources outside the box on the left and right, but directed in from the front seems to work.
I used a packaging box to lift the model off the table so the light would strike it rather than go over it. It would also allow me to take pictures from directly in front rather than from above. Here I am all set up for the first shoot.
However, the result did not work out quite as well as I had planned / hoped .
I switched to the dark blue back drop, brought the lamps in closer, and did my best to focus with my iPhone. This ended up with the first image in this post and the two below:
Side and back.
Other photos did not make the grade and have not been uploaded to the gallery or here. Mainly issues with shadows or focus.
My next step is to decide whether these three are good enough to submit as is, or whether I want to create a collage. I'm leaning towards the collage. Let me know if there are any details you think I should definitely include or not include, or make a better attempt at photoing.
Next round looks like it will be an open / pile of shame round. Jadenim suggested a sub challenge of "find the oldest mini that you've never painted". I have a couple of untouched Chaos Warriors and Marauders tagged 1985 that might just do...
I have that exact same light set up. My problem is with the bulbs... they have all kinds of strange shades coming out of them that really alter the color of the models I've been trying to photograph with them. Had to switch to other lights.
Gladstone the Large, Chaos Warrior (including a better angle to view his shield.)
Cedric Hammerhand, Chaos Warrior.
Zarygor Bloodrage, Chaos Warrior.
Lunkop Banesmite, Chaos Marauder.
These are currently my planned entries for round 62 of the Dakka Painting Challenge (TBA), pending the theme remaining as open / pile of shame and making sure I have all of the paints I'll need - either new, old and still viable, or actually purchaseable given the current environment. They meet a possible sub theme of "find the oldest mini that you've never painted" - none have ever seen paint (which ruled out my stripped miniatures earlier in this thread - if I'm being strict - as well as some even earlier miniatures I put in the Show-Off Your Retro and Out of Print Models! thread) and have tags of 1985. Yes, there are four. I can always enter less if timing becomes an issue.
Interestingly, according to Chaos Marauders - F5, the original Chaos Marauder range were placed into the Chaos Warrior and Chaos Thug ranges in the 1988 Citadel Catalog. This is why Zarygor Bloodrage is listed online as a Chaos Warrior, even though his tab says Marauder. It looks like some of my stripped Marauders (by tag) are actually Chaos Thugs (online) for the same reason. Not that it seems to matter for anyone other than Zarygor - all of the other Marauders appear to have been classified as Thugs (I think the dividing line might be full armour or not), and Thugs seem to fall in line with the new Marauder concept... Long story short, I'm now educated and less confused... and maybe now so are you .
Dilemma number one - which shields to equip Gladstone and Cedric with? I've pictured them with the ones I'm leaning towards, based on online research, but I have more options as shown below:
Additional shield options for Gladstone and Cedric.
Dilemma number two - bases. They came with square bases (of course!). I have them in 25mm round slotta bases for photography only. To match a possible future Chaos Army (ignoring Warhammer The Old World), I'm thinking of keeping Lunkop on 25mm round to go with current Chaos Marauders and moving the other three to 32mm round to go with current Chaos Warriors. For some reason I appear to have 32mm round (non slotta) bases. I wonder what I am stealing them from?
Dilemma number three - paint scheme. Given I started my new paint journey with bone, how do I up the challenge from there? White of course! White armour, gold chain, rivets and details, dark brown leathers / cloth, red bloodied hand print on helmet, possibly shields. I haven't really decided on the colour of the weapons, or base, other than they will probably need to be darker to offset the white. I can mix in purple for any robes in the future. Oh, and I plan to beat up the armour with scratches (dark brown to silver) and small amounts of blood splatter.
I'm a fan of the embossed sheilds, but I can see where the mounting might get weird and the sheilds a bit large.
Bases wise, honestly I'd stick with 25mm round or square, probably square for overlap reasons, you can always up 'em on a bigger insert or a placeholder base if you need to use them with the new stuff (on the other hand, I'm a bit of a grog, and don't really plan to do much with AOS, so it may make sense to move 'em up--I'd just be worried they'd end up looking a bit puny and lost.)
I love those old Chaos models. I keep mine on square bases because of nostalgia, which is also why I use the older, non-embossed shields. I've never seen Chaos warriors in white armor, though, so that should be a treat.
Deathwing came out really good! The blue base works for it so well.
Love the old school chaos range. Lots of really good characterful sculpts. Probably may favourite line of all the old-hammer. And I am 100% all for square bases. They just don't have the same zazz on round bases.
@Vejut: Yeah, those embossed shields are quite large, and the old Chaos Warriors on the smaller side. Perhaps better suited for some old Chaos Knights, but, I have more embossed shields than old Chaos knights, so that doesn't rule them out. When I was playing with it, I think I can get the smallest embossed shield on Gladstone without it looking too large, and without too many difficulties. Cedric's mounting point is in a tough position that favours narrower shields. The one I have him pictured with was the widest I could easily muster, and mainly because of the notches. As for the bases, I was only concerned Zarygor might look a little lost on a 32mm - Gladstone already extends past 25mm and Cedric's hammer and shield do too - but Zarygor seems fine too. I haven't made up my mind yet.
@monkeytroll: I think auto correct might have done a number on your shields thought - I can't quite work out the guist of it!
@JoshInJapan: Given they are unlikely to be played as well (and I can always rebase and perhaps repaint them later if it became an issue), maybe the nostagia of square bases wins out? Do I even attempt to have them able to be lined up?
@Snrub: Feeling like a general, well, perhaps stronger, consensus towards square bases - I'll give them another whirl.
Good lord, those chaos models are nearly as old as I am I too would go with square bases, if you don‘t plan on playing with them. Looks more old school and as others have said, you can still rebase later.
And nice work on the Dark Angel terminator, armour in that color is no easy feat!
@JoshInJapan: Given they are unlikely to be played as well (and I can always rebase and perhaps repaint them later if it became an issue), maybe the nostagia of square bases wins out? Do I even attempt to have them able to be lined up?
In my experience, these old Chaos models rank up pretty well if you treat the unit like a jigsaw puzzle. Just make sure to mount Cedric and Lunkop diagonally.
@Viterbi: I'm only a mere decade older than them myself .
@monkeytroll: Freehand on the embossed shields? Surely freehand on the plain shields would be easier? Or are you trying to make my life harder? Of course, I could break out the greenstuff and "emboss" the plain shields myself...
@Everyone: You've convinced me. I'm going full retro with square bases. Pictures hopefully tomorrow.
With the decision to go completely old skool with square bases, I went back to my old Chaos Warriors and Chaos Thugs to think about positioning.
My conclusion? I think the slotta-base ones are a trap that my younger self easily fell into. The main problem would appear to be the ones that will look like they are peering off... over there - if placed on the diagonal. That would be the two on the right above. But, if I have them face slightly off centre, it appears to work - and works for the others as well. So a new plan formed...
First, I marked a common gaze point on four non slotta bases (just using white paint.) This is one quarter in from the right, or approximately 6mm.
I then did my best attempt to line up the miniature face direction with this mark, whilst also attempting to keep the miniature centred on the base. I marked the end of the tags in each case.
My reminder for later that I used the 1.6mm drill bit to...
...drill holes inside the tag marks.
Then drill along the line, using my steel rule as a guide. Halve and halve again until no spots are left.
Then use my hobby knife to cut out the slot.
Finally use my file to straighten everything out. I had to use my hobby knife to extend the ends as well. (Just scrape back and forth.)
And you end up with the above. If you are lucky, on your first try. I ended up having three goes at Cedric - the first was too far to his left, the second to far to his right (in spoilers below.) Best bit? No holes to fill!
Now I have the shield dilemma.
Gladstone with the smallest embossed shield, in the correct orientation, front and top. I really think this is too big .
Gladstone with the smallest embossed shield, in the incorrect orientation, front and top. The shield would fit better this way... still too big I think .
Gladstone with the narrow plain shield, in the correct orientation, front and top. Not very impressive.
Gladstone with the curved plain shield, in the correct orientation, front and top. Maybe...
Cedric with the long wide curved plain shield, in the correct orientation, front and side. Maybe...
Cedric with the plain shield, in the correct orientation, side. Maybe...
I'm starting to think, prompted by attempting to comprehend monkeytroll's ipad mutterings, to go with the curved plain shields and attempt my own greenstuff embossing. To that end, I went looking for what Chaos symbols and icons I might have available to me...
Chaos Terminator shoulder pads, Chaos Terminator Lord shoulder pads and bits.
The Powerfist icon looks promising, as does the leg. I could see the shoulder pad icons being better suited to shorter/wider shields - but they would still work.
I do like the plain curved shields, but I agree that some details would suit them. I've actually often felt that chaos power armor greaves have some of the most interesting detail-work. I think it would be a good candidate. For the shoulderpads, I wonder if the curve of them would make it a bit tricky to apply, although I suppose you could try and flatten the mold after you remove the pad but before it cures. I only recently tried experimenting with greenstuff molding, and it was surprisingly forgiving.
Err...that's exactly what I was trying to suggest....honest and
A classic take on the plain shields is to chop the face off a suitable head and use that as the decoration. Skulls being an obvious choice, but screaming faces, demon or orc heads, maybe even a CSM head for that old-school anachronistic look?
@Don Qui Hotep: Unfortunately, I don't have any Chaos Power Armour. (Actually, I might, I have Dark Vengeance, and as it happens, Dark Imperium as well, so I need to go check that out now...). We'll see how my first attempts below pan out...
@monkeytroll: But that would use up valuable bits! If the press moulds below don't turn out, I'll probably have to give it serious consideration though...
@monkeytroll: I'm trying new things . See results below...
@gobert: I'm using bee balm stolen from my wife, applied with a base brush. I think what I was looking for was a wax or wax like substance rather than oil - but apparently I never wrote down why... I've let both the moulds and the icons wait 24 hours before touching them.
The shield icons needed cleaning up, and ended up coming away from the shields - but they kept the curve. Not a bad thing, as I didn't manage to line them up perfectly. A bit of superglue and presto!
Great job on the moulds, I’ll be trying again with more oil and being more patient. Might have to see if there is any Vaseline or similar I can pinch if that doesn’t work... my wife and kids have mountains of lip balm so that’ll probably work too!
Oh and great idea on marking up their bases so they have a common focal point, genius!
Quick update - Chaos guys have been cleaned up. I forgot how painful cleaning up metal models was. On the plus side, I'm not modifying them...
Next dilemma - bases - again. Given the need for a darker colour to contrast the white armour, and as some may have dark brown leather boots, I'm leaning towards a dusty red/brown over a muddy dark brown. Thinking Martian Ironearth - if I can acquire some. I also have various grades of sand, flock, Middenland Tufts, skulls and watch parts. Of course, I only need to deal with what needs to go down before undercoating at the moment - but that needs some thought on the final composition!
Local hobby shop is a) still open, and b) well stocked - so I shouldn't have any supply issues this month - yay! So I bring back one of the rainbow technicolour boarz for...
Adventures in Martian Ironearth (with a side quest of Balthasar Gold).
Two layer of Abaddon Black (half of the side burn armour plate), Mephiston Red and Averland Sunset. The armour plate is to test whether the base colour makes a difference under Balthasar Gold. The left red, yellow and grey (Mechanicus Standard Grey primer) will be gloss varnished before applying Martian Ironearth. The right won't.
As above, but four layers.
As above but with a fifth and final layer.
First layer of Balthasar Gold. Coverage (or lack of) is more obvious on the black side. Gloss varnished the left set of base colours.
Second layer of Balthasar Gold.
Third and final layer of Balthasar Gold. I can't tell the difference. Conclusion - I don't need to apply a black under layer.
Thick layer of Martian Ironearth. Applied with my old Sculpting Tool (in first picture) because a) it looks like a texture tool, b) I don't want to spend AU$14 on a GW texture tool and c) I couldn't find one anyway . Results tomorrow.
Super glued the Chaos Warriors (and Marauder) to their bases. Added a couple of minor details. I'm hoping the Martian Ironearth experiment works out above, in which case I should be able to prime from here. I think I'll experiment with the Middenland Tufts on the rainbow technicolour boar as well.
First thick layer of Martian Ironearth, dried. You can see the underlying colour showing through. So far, no difference between the glossed (left) or non glossed (right) base colours - although this was more about avoiding flaking that I had heard about. The Mephiston Red base colour looks pretty good by itself. The Averland Sunset was preparation for an attempted lava look (more to come). The Mechanicus Standard Grey was just to see if I needed a base colour (I think the answer is a resounding yes).
Again, wary of flaking, I've gloss varnished the top half.
Given how the red turned out, I thought it would be worthwhile trying a black - so I added a thick layer to a Chaos Black undercoated boar.
Drying over black. Also, preparation (Averland Sunset) for another idea.
Over the Chaos Black undercoat, the Martian Ironearth appears to be lifting. This was an older spray paint, I wonder if that is the cause?
Wash of Carroburg Crimson over the original test. This was the next step of the lava test, although it doesn't look bad over the red either.
Expecting painting individual bits to be hard / frustrating - this is Martian Ironearth applied thickly and mixed with two drops of Chaos Black over the Averland Sunset I prepared earlier. It sort of went more a dark brown (reminds me of Scorched Brown).
The aforementioned hard / frustrating attempt to paint the raised areas for the lava effect. I could do this. I probably don't want to though.
Abaddon Black drybrush, mainly over the untouched grey base colour areas. Doesn't look too bad. Will it make filling the raised areas easier?
A bit. Not enough.
While I'm here, I decided to try out one of my Middenland Tufts. Apart from being a little out of place on cracked earth / lava, it applied well and I can't see any edges - so win.
Here you can see the Martian Ironearth mixed with Chaos Black drying, showing the Averland Sunset underneath - promising. I've also prepared three other experiments - Jokaero Orange, Averland Sunset and Armageddon Dust. The first two are to try a new technique with different base colours. The last is a test for mixing Middenland Tufts on a flat base, transitioning to lava cracked earth via Armageddon dust painted black...
Here I've applied Martian Ironearth thickly over the Jokaero Orange and Averland Sunset, then smoothed out Chaos Black over the top of that.
Here you can see the dried Martian Ironearth mixed with Chaos Black over Averland Sunset - not bad. I expect it needs a Carroburg Crimson wash. You can also see the Chaos Black over Martian Ironearth over Averland Sunset starting to dry - giving a glossy black on top, hints of red Martian Ironearth underneath and slivers of the Averland Sunset base - promising...
Chaos Black over Martian Ironearth over Averland Sunset drying - you can see more of the Averland Sunset base showing through. May still need a Carroburg Crimson wash. Is this saying lava to you?
Same deal over Jokaero Orange. I think the Averland Sunset is winning.
Finally, as I'm now confident I can work out something for the Chaos Warriors (and Marauder) bases, these bad boys have been undercoated.
Stay tuned for the next episode of "Adventures in Martian Ironearth" .
For lava I'm feeling the drybrush of black, or the averland > ironearth > black work best.
You should look for Tim Holtz Distress crackle paint if it's available over there - great product, wide range of colours, cheaper than GW. You could also try painting pva glue over a base colour, then a colour on top of that before it dries - however brush application can be tricky for that.
Again, thanks for showing your process of experimentation! It's great to watch people thinking through hobby problems. My vote for best lava effect is abaddon black drybrush over ironearth over averland sunset, although that produces a more cinematic effect rather than a naturalistic one, so grains of salt.
Thanks for the feedback peoples. I find it interesting that the consensus so far is for the Averland Sunset > Martian Ironearth > Black drybrush. This one comes out quite red still. My personal leaning is towards the Averland Sunset > Martian Ironearth > Black. It looks perhaps too black and glossy above - it hasn't completely dried (and cracked) in that last image, so maybe the next episode might change your mind?
@monkeytroll: I'll have a look for Tim Holtz Distress crackle paint, although it and the PVA are probably too late for this round of experimentation...
Adventures in Martian Ironearth: Episode 3.
The Averland Sunset / Jokaero Orange > Martian Ironearth > Black finally dried, from above and from the side.
With a Carroburg Crimson wash over the Martian Ironearth / Black mix, as well as the Averland Sunset and Jokaero Orange bases. I mght want to more carefully target the gaps in the final piece, which might be helped by a gloss varnish over the top first too...
As above, one side of each drybrushed with Mephiston Red, the other side drybrushed with Eshin Grey then Adminstratum Grey.
A bit rough, but as I said above, I'm leaning towards the Averland Sunset > Martian Ironearth > Black, but with the Carroburg Crimson wash and drybrushed with Eshin Grey then Adminstratum Grey.
I may need to do a final side by side test of these last two contenders... (the other being the black dry brush you all like).
Meanwhile, progress has also started on the Chaos Warriors and Marauder (progress to here in spoiler):
I'm evenly split between drybrush and paint, either works.
With the crimson wash I'm not sure if you do need to be careful in targeting the cracks. Having a subtle red note to some of the black velocity the cooking down lava look to my mind. It might not be photo-realistic, but it works to the eye and brain.
Edit - forgot to mention the warriors. They're mentioned now.
I'm evenly split on the crimson wash being targetted or not . I guess I'll see how I feel later, or actually run that final experiment.
Going over the Raarth Flesh and Bugman's Glow with more of the same after their washes. Drybrushing Retributor Armour, Auric Armour Gold and Stormhost Silver over the washed Retributor Armour. With that I can start moving out to the next pieces - the leather straps around Lunkop's shins and making a start on the Rakarth Flesh base on Gladstone and Cedric.
I could have gone Seraphim Sepia wash on Zarygor's armour, but thought I'd go darker with the Agrax Earthshade. I wanted to make sure the contrast was there, and also figured Chaos Warriors wouldn't be keeping their armour immaculate either. I won't really know if I regret that decision until I layer up the armour...
I'm focusing on getting Gladstone and Cedric's armour done now - so I can do all of the armour together, and also to make sure the gold isn't overpowering. I guess I should finish Lunkop's skin and mace so I can do his at the same time too...
"Hello, my name is Lunkop Banesmite. I sleep in my golden chainmail briefs and booties so that I am ready to deal with home invaders at a moments notice."
So, the skin, leather straps, mace and boot bottoms are supposed to be complete, while the boot tops and briefs have just had their wash of Reikland Fleshade, pending drybrushes of Retributor Armour, Auric Armour Gold and Stormhost Silver. Once that is done I can concentrate on the armour - along with the other warriors.
@Viterbi: I think mostly I see straps highlighted both sides, and with more contrast in the highlights is all.
@JoshInJapan: It was a close call, but they seemed like they were more likely chain than fur to me, especially with the straps to hold them up/on. Doesn't make much sense - but then - this is Warhammer!
Lunkop is full of strangeness. I can’t decide what’s weirder, chainmail pants or chainmail boots. Of the 2 I think the boots would be the least comfortable, but then the risk of getting stuff caught in the links... ouch! the metal waistband can’t be that forgiving post lunch. Are those shoulder pads riveted on to him? Very Choas, which makes it even more odd that his helmet has a bad moon on it! Let the awesome retro continue!
@monkeytroll: I'm quite happy with the skin - skin can always be... challenging. Although my wife tells me it's too pink. This is at least the one area where I can ignore her opinion . She would also be quick to point out the apparent folly of chainmail (or any other kind of) bikini armour...
@gobert Well, I'd assume they are padded on the inside, but Warhammer, Chaos, probably not . I've painted the white down past those studs to make it look more like part of the armour than riveted on. No idea on the bad moon - but it's classic, so it stays .
Rakarth Flesh base now complete on all armour. Next - Agrax Earthshade wash and Rakarth Flesh touch up to bring the gang in line with Zarygor.
Those marauders are just excellent. So much awesome character in the old sculpts. Nothing says chaotic and scary like chainmail briefs and moon on your head. Not to mention the big feth off mace.
And you made the wise choice in going with the square bases.
FYI, if you have any more to do. A much simpler, if slightly more toxic way of cutting slots in the bases is to heat up a metal skewer and melt a slot in them. If you have a gas stove it works really well as you can just hold it under the extractor fan and not have to deal with gakky plastic fumes.
Interesting results on the colour testing. I like the lava effect. Interesting way of achieving a certain level of realism.
@monkeytroll: You always make be laugh, in your thread and now mine too . Armour should be coming together nicely - the white is complete in those photos.
@gobert: Thank you. I guess technically they are all sporting golden chainmail pants...
@Don Qui Hote: Thank you. You don't dare complain when Chaos...
@Snrub: I am enjoying painting them more than I thought. The square bases have certainly grown on me - I like to think this is the start of my Warhammer: The Old World Chaos army. I may even be ready by the time GW is . The drilling wasn't too complex, just a little time consuming. Certainly healthier, my wife... oh... you meant the fumes .
(Interesting note - Dakka obscures the swearing, but not when quoting...)
@Viterbi: Thank you. It's mostly the Citadel Colour App "Custodian Guard of the Solar Watch" scheme - although I traded Seraphim Sepia on the bone white areas for Agrax Earthshade. I just like the concept of Chaos / Evil in traditionally regal / good guy colours (and vice versa...)
And with that out of the way, step by steps in spoilers:
Layered Rakarth Flesh.
Layered two thirds 1:1 Rakarth Flesh / Pallid Wych Flesh.
Layered one third Pallid Wych Flesh.
Edge highlight 1:1 Pallid Wych Flesh / White Scar.
Edge highlight White Scar.
Base Retributor Armour, Rhinox Hide and Leadbelcher.
Wash Reikland Fleshshade, Agrax Earthshade and Nuln Oil.
Layer / drybrush Retributor Armour and Leadbelcher. Base Dryad Bark (Gladstone horns).
Half way to the deadline. Gold has now been edge highlighted (dry brushed for mail) with Stormhost Silver. Picked out all of the missing studs with Retributor Gold, and gave all a Reikland Fleshade wash. Hmmm... may have missed the Stormhost Silver edge highlight on Gladstone's sword... Still have the leathers and buckles to do, Gladstone's horns, a lot still missing on Zarygor - tops of his boots and sheathed sword on his back. At least Lunkop is pretty much done for his "clean" version.
Where to after that? Skipping the obvious (bases), I really want to dirty them up with chipping, battle damage, and a touch of dirt and rust - these aren't Stormhost after all!
I want to try tattoos on Lunkop - I'm thinking a half chaos star centred on his belly button, pointed up, and maybe a silhouette of Archaon's three-headed beast Dorghar on his back - dark blue or black? (I don't think I can to a Chaos star justice across his shoulder blades and lower back...)
If I am doing chipping, it would be nice to have some designs on the white armour - almost like a slightly different form of "tattoo". I don't think there is enough room on Zarygor, but Gladstone and defintely Cedric would have room. Half chaos stars on Cedric's pauldrons, pointed inwards, and maybe a crown of thorns on Gladstone. I want to add purple to the mix (another royal colour), so these would work in that colour I think. It will just show off the battle damage better . Zarygor's sword tassle is planned for this colour as well.
Then there is still the bloody hand print on the face, and probably blood effect on Cedric's Mace and the forward facing side of Gladstone's shield (which I imagine he is pummelling someone with - he doesn't appear to be trying to protect himself from raining arrows...)
I think that will all work out. The last big question - what to do for the eyes? Glowing red will probably be lost in the bloody hand, glowing purple adds to that royal colour, but again might be lost a bit, and end up with too much purple. Glowing green would work - but can I afford to add another primary colour? I expect if I did green, I could also match Cedric's shield's two or three eyes the same (where green gems would work while I think red or purple might not work as well, or be too much).
Green would definitely stand out well against the red hand print, probably best to get in the tattoos and armour designs before making a final decision though. Doesn't seem like it would be too busy colour-wise, but hard to say for sure until everything else is in p!ace. If it does end up too much maybe a very yellow green, or possibly just yellow?
Looking good so far, I'm miles behind on my guys. Tattoos and armour work sound great - back piece sounds tricky.
Yeah, I think green would work best if you want them to stand out. Like you say, red would be lost with the red hand print, unless it has an orange/yellow glow. Second best would be purple as it goes well with the gold and white. The gang are looking really good so far, I quite like their cleanness but chirping would add to the chaos vibe I suppose!
Seems the general consensus is the green, which is my preference too - we'll see how things pan out towards the end. Thanks for the input everyone!
@monkeytroll: Good advice on getting the tattoos and armour designs in before making a final decision. I worry yellow might get lost amongst the gold.
@Viterbi and @gobert: Thanks!
@JoshInJapan: It's funny what the mind thinks will and won't work sometimes. I'm not taking credit here - could have gone either way (although I wouldn't have had time to change tack...)
More progress. Cedric, Lunkop and Gladstone are pretty much "clean" complete, now that the leather straps have been (re)done. This time I based Rhinox Hide, Agrax Earthshade, then straight to Doombull brown layer on the raised areas and Tuskgor Fur edges.
Cedric is definitely my favourite for how things are turning out so far.
Then Lunkop - I think it is the skin.
Gladstone also has his horns finished - Dryad Bark base, Agrax Earthshade wash, then highlight/base going up Gorthor Brown then Baneblade Brown.
Finally lagging Zarygor. Leather boots done the same way as the leather bandages, but with an added 1:1 Rhinox Brown Doombull Brown layer after the wash. Boot and scabbard fur based Mournfang Brown, washed Agrax Earthshade, plan is to drybrush Skrag Brown, Deathclaw Brown and (as it happens) Screaming Skull.
Car issues means I haven't picked up my purple paints as planned - hopefully tomorrow. I'm going to be practising tattoo and armour designs on paper before letting loose on the models.
So, I'm trying out all of the things. My impressions are in the spoilers so that you might come to (and share) an opinion without me necessarily leading you... (as if that was possible ).
Zarygor's purple sword tassle completes his "clean" look. Well, except for the sword gem and stud I've managed to miss...
I'm quite happy with how Zarygor is looking pre weathering, bloody hand and eyes.
Practising tattoo and armour designs. Numbers represent order of attempt. After 6, just go counter clockwise . The "squares" marked by outward lines and characters are the approximate space I have to work with - Lunkop back (Lb), Lunkop front (Lf) and Gladstone head (Gh). The smallest dragon design left and chaos symbol bottom right is about where I was headed. Earlier atempts quickly suggested I would need a much, much simpler design to have any chance of getting it down to size.
Lunkop with first attempt belly, leg and back tattoos.
The Chaos star looks more like a sun than a Chaos star, but otherwise quite happy with the front. The back is harder to make out, I'm going to try going over with a slightly darker colour to "sharpen" it up... Still quite happy though.
Gladstone with Chaos Star on head.
Apart from the same issue of looking more like an asterix than a Chaos Star, this just doesn't seem to work for me. Doesn't help that from the front it looks like a bad hair piece!
Cedric sporting armour markings.
I couldn't quite work out how to apply what I wanted originally, and this isn't working for me either . It might need to be finer to work, but it's just looking "busy" in my opinion. I'm thinking I am best to forgo the armour markings entirely and save the purple for any robes or small details (like Zarygor's tassle) in the future. I had also considered doing the shoulder pads completely in purple, or checked, or with a checked border - but I just don't think it will work now, and I am running out of time. Barring some super suggestions from you good folk, I'll rely on the weathering, bloody hand and eyes to add interest.
With Lunkop maybe adding a semi-circle will bring it back to a star rather than a rising belly button sun. Back certainly hard to make out, that is a cramped space with muscles in that you're working on though.
Not feeling Gladstone at all, all I can think of for a purple touch would be a tiny star on kneepad or the horns. Star might look better on the face-plate rather than the top but you already have the hand print going there. Unless there's somewhere on the shield to add the purp!e?
Cedric might work if the star was finer, not sold on it though, I really liked those shoulders in plain white. Purple gloves might work, as he appears to have gloves rather than armour, not sure how that would affect the group look. Possibly alternate the loin strips, but again, not sure how that works with the group as no-one has any solid purple armour.
@monkeytroll: Thank you for the feedback. See what you think of Lunkop now (below) - otherwise I agree - the shoulder pads look better white. Some times we try things and they just don't work out
@Theophony: Always happy to inspire!
So I managed some points to the Chaos Star tattoo - dont ask me how, I don't know either! Looking much better (at least, less like a sun). Made a start on the base rocks. Nothing special - just Abaddon Black to start. Went over Lunkop's back tattoo. At least it is more obvious now...
Also trying another Martian Ironearth experiment - this time over Ceramite White...
Cool work on the dragon tattoo! I think the angle the photo was taken made it hard to see in the first pic, but it’s much clearer now it’s darker.
As for the Chaos stars:Chaos:; the belly button one now looks good, but the others would maybe benefit from the legs of the arrows being different lengths, a bit like these symbols carried by my Rogue Psykers. I think Not Online!!! had some cool looking Chaos star patterns that looked good too in their plog ( here and here). I think it was the use of the inner circle that might help, or for the one on the helmet, to offset it so it doesn’t look as much like a hair piece.
@monkeytroll: Nice to see it had the desired effect.
@gobert: Agreed on the different lengths (I was having difficulty doing that in the space), and the circle (which I plain forgot). In my defense, I'm working with a slightly smaller area than a rhino hull .
@Viterbi: Thank you. No harm done on personal preferences - we all have them.
Start of undoing my armour markings, Mechanicus Standard Grey.
Continuing undoing my armour markings. Basically just repeating the original motions. Also, rocks done .
Back to adventures in Martian Ironearth...
Martian Ironearth mixed with Carroburg Crimson over Ceramite White. This was an attempt for a richer red to the Martian Ironearth.
Topped with Chaos Black. You can see here the Carroburg Crimson mix has made the Martian Ironearth thinner (and dribbling off the side).
Next update should be cool - armour battle damage and even more adventures in Martian Ironearth!
It's a shame the sigils/markings on the armor didn't work out. Battle damage should be cool, at least.
Also, I'm impressed that you remember the names of these models. Even when I was a wee-nerd, just starting in this hobby, I referred to models as "dude with hammer," "other dude with hammer," or "dude with his buttocks showing." That last one applies to more than a few of these classic Chaos models, BTW.
@JoshInJapan: A shame, yes, but I haven't completely given up on them - just for this month's challenge. I'll need to practise and try again later. I cheat with the names. I had to look them up initially, then I add them to all the image names - and continually reference back to them .
Well, I got the images uploaded in the meantime so I may as well present them!
Gladstone and Cedric, restored to their former (pre armour marking debacle) glory.
Lunkop with obligatory skull. My wife titles this one "Fore!!!".
@Viterbi: I'm quite happy with it, thank you. I can't wait either (although thick texture paint around those feet is going to be... fun...)
Adventures in Martian Ironearth continued...
Previous experiment, dried. The Carroburg Crimson had the side effect of tainting the Ceramite White, for not much more than inconvenience. I have another test to run on here yet still...
Meanwhile, I plan to paint the bases with a graduation between black and white under the Martian Ironearth, black areas around stones, grass and white feet, white areas around brown feet, anywhere else. Thought I should give this a test run first, and may as well remove the failed Carroburg Crimson from the experiment.
Martian Ironearth layer.
Dropper bottle Chaos Black pre spread.
Dropper bottle Choas Black post spread.
Dried. Still tinting the Ceramite White a little.
Next step is to try a yellow wash (probably made up from paint given I don't have the actual yellow wash) on the white, red wash on the yellow, black wash on the red and repaint the black, well, black. I'm looking for a smooth transition rather than the obvious bands. (Bands will probably be thinner in the final version too.)
@monkeytroll: Thanks. Interested to see how it all turns out in the end myself!
Hopefully, this will be the last Adventures in Martian Ironearth (for now).
I don't have any yellow wash, either new style or old, so I made my own from a 3:1 mix of Gloss varnish and old Sunburst Yellow. Applied it over the Ceramite White peaking through.
Also applied it to a section of the previous experiment.
Followed up with some Carroburg Crimson wash over the Averland Sunset.
As well as either side of the yellow wash on the previous experiment.
Nuln Oil wash over the Mephiston Red.
And either side of the Carroburg Crimson wash on the previous experiment.
Finally, Abaddon Black painted over the Abaddon Black (basically to remove the red of the Martian Ironearth).
Again, on the previous experiment.
The previous experiment, with only Ceramite White base, I think is, not a failure - there are no failures in experimenting - but not what I was after. I might try building up the washes over the top of each other to see if that works better, but straight over the white I think doesn't work.
I like the new one. It is brighter. The washes help to ease the colour transition. I think the takeaway is actually to blend the base colouration *before* applying the Martian Ironearth over the top though.
Gotta get these Chaos Warriors finsihed this weekend - there is still photography to do!
It is very hard to get the Martian Ironearth up to, but not touching, the feet.
It is even harder to stop the Chaos Black getting there. (It is quite fluid on top of the Martian Ironearth.)
It is also hard to get both under the miniatures.
Push the Martian Ironearth in around the feet and rocks first, don't worry about building it up thickly there.
Build up from the middle out.
Except for Zarygor, who had the white around his feet, the others are going to be on black - they don't need the Chaos Black actually making it to their feet - this can be easily touched up later.
I'm going to have to redo some of the feet I expect.
Potentially mounting the miniatures up off the base a little would make this all easier.
Easier still would be to do the bases separate to the miniatures.
I had given that last one some thought previously, but I a) didn't want to deal with fiddly pinning or b) want to remove the tags from the miniatures. I think in future I will. Maybe just stick the removed tag under the base to keep them together. Although if I ever strip them, I'd have to place mix and match...
Wow! The base experimentation alone deserves the win. Awesome painting so far arakasi, it’s a shame the icons didn’t work how you’d hoped. It’s really tricky painting them so small. Good practice for next time! The graduated colours on the bases worked really well. Jealous of how they’ve come out!
@Viterbi: I wasn't going for an 80s video game vibe, just contrast to the white, but I'll take it .
@monkeytroll: I think there were two issues with Zaryor's boots. 1) I got black on them, so they merged with the black lava - this I have fixed. 2) While he's standing on the hottest parts in an attempt to contrast with his darker boots, I underestimated the sheer amount of black still there. Maybe the grey highlights can help here... See what you think of the next photos.
@gobert: Thank you for your kind words. I will give the icons another go in the future.
Lava base drybrushed - Eshin Grey, Dawnstone, Administratum Grey - if you can tell. I guess it should add a little depth and less sheer black.
Bloody hand practise with Blood for the blood god.
Bloody hands. Also, feet have been touched up here.
Lava 'ardcoated, shields attached, bloodied shield and mace.
Purple eye(s) on Cedric's shield, purple gem on Zarygor's sword.
Apply static grass.
Eyes! (missed this from last time!)
Add blood spatter to Cedric and Gladstone (to match bloodied mace/shield).
@monkeytroll: You managed to sneek a comment in while I was posting . Yes, the hand prints were fiddly over the helmets. I've attached an image of Gladstone from above, as the blood spatter is best viewed from this angle. Let me know if you still think it doesn't look random enough (although I may need more information in terms of direction in that case). It supposed to be as if he has beheaded someone in that shield nook by smashing it into the ground.
Well, I set up the lightbox and the following pictures ensued. One of my lamps died during the session so I'm considering retaking some of the darker ones after sourcing a new globe - tomorrow. Otherwise it is simply a case of choosing which six to submit...
First frontal attempt.
Second (and I think better) frontal attempt (less shadow on Cedric).
Back from above. Better picture of the lava base and Gladstone's shield. (I think this was when the globe had died).
Front from above. Also a good picture of the lava base.
Angled, so the miniatures are facing more straight on.
Bigger pictures as always in the gallery - just click through.
The white armour really paid off, contrasts nicely with the bases, and overall they still have a retro feel even though it's not a typically retro scheme - I can't recall seeing white armour back in the day with the exception of some designed to look like bone.
Nice set of chaos warriors. Not often you see them in white but it works well. Really like the little details like the tattoos and red hand markings.
Thanks for documenting your basing techniques, I have been thinking about something similar and it looks like you've saved me some effort working it out. I might try tinting the ironearth with some base paint eg mephiston red, wonder if it still cracks?
@monkeytroll: Yeah, wasn't planned to be a retro scheme. I just like playing with stereotypes. The colours are meant to be a more "royal" / good guy scheme.
@Maharg: I only attempted mixing the ironearth twice - once with black (came out brown) and once with Carroburg Crimons wash (came out very liquidy - wouldn't recommend). Both were mixed in place on the base, as I didn't want to try mixing more than I needed to - but both still cracked as expected. The experiment needed here is twofold - does mixing in another colour affect or stop the cracking, and if so, at what ratio does this occur? I guess a third question is, can you get the desired colour outcome at this ratio . It's not on my current plans to find out, but if you do, I will be very interested in the results!
I dunno if you can get Vallejo, but they do make a clear crack medium to mix into paint, if you've got a paint color in mind, might be a place to start. I've got a bottle, just not had a project speak to me in terms of needing it...
monkeytroll wrote: You should look for Tim Holtz Distress crackle paint if it's available over there - great product, wide range of colours, cheaper than GW. You could also try painting pva glue over a base colour, then a colour on top of that before it dries - however brush application can be tricky for that.
Vejut wrote: I dunno if you can get Vallejo, but they do make a clear crack medium to mix into paint, if you've got a paint color in mind, might be a place to start. I've got a bottle, just not had a project speak to me in terms of needing it...
That makes two alternatives to try / experiment with
Hot damn, take a few weeks off and Arakasi comes out and finishes not only his chaos warriors but also does up the lava bases to stunning effect! Congratulations on what you've done. Those classic figures have been lovingly restored. Great work on the handprints and tattoos.
So, completing four miniatures in a month sort of knackered me, and between the Dakka Painting Challenge Round 63 May 2020: Old-School Cool theme being more aged, outdated or historical than the retro I was originally hoping for, and the need to start cleaning up my hobby disaster - I mean room - well, I'm off to a slow start this month!
Instead, the room cleanup had to go as far as finding something a bit more Old School, a little less challenging than last month, without just being more Chaos Warriors or Chaos Marauders/Thugs. My search provided a couple of options:
The head to head options - one of the Chaos Champions monkeytroll submitted in the April DPC (I didn't even remember I owned this!), or the Chaos Warrior of Snrub or the Chaos Centaurs of JoshInJapan for this month . Not sure if I have an extra Chaos Centaur torso or I am missing a body...
More likely I will go with one of these Chaos Champions or Chaos Sorcerers. Probably a Chaos Sorceror to make it a bit more different from last month.
Meanwhile, I have collected a large assorted group (mainy Chaos and Beastmen) for the stripping bucket:
Honestly, I'd just go with the rocketgirl if that's what your passion's on. Its not that far from the theme, and really, feeling motivated to paint something and well is more important I'd think.
I'd lean towards the chaos centaurs of the other options except they'd probably be better painted as a set, and you said you weren't looking for quite that much effort this month, and I'm also obviously a bit biased in my tastes. Also, how big are those torsos? could you rob a loose plastic horse sans head and with a little green stuff for a spare lower body to complete them? Still looks like a fun set of ideas in any case.
LoER wise, I think both might be a fun chance to play with stuff--part of me wonders if you could use the paint test piggys for the painboy version, but don't know what other bits and bobs you'd have that'd fit. Still hope to see what you come up with.
I'd say Sally is covered in the spirit of the theme. It would be good to see someone tackle one of the Bombshell no is too - I have a reasonable stack that I keep ignoring....
Slightly biased towards a painboy klinik for some obvious reasons, I'm ignoring the call of my cyborks and going dark mechanicus for LOER, mainly because I don't want to start pulling out all my Ork bitz.
Having said that I can't recall seeing a Necromunda clinic, and that's always exciting. Plenty of opportunity for dark, damaged, held together equipment but on a different level to that of orks.
@Vejut: Thank you for the support. I think I must have portrayed more disappointment (ie than none) than I had intended. You are probably right, it would be better to paint the Chaos Centaurs as a set - and yes, that would be too much effort this month. The torsos (and bodies) are not large - the torso may look a little lost on a fantasy horse. In fact, I just checked, and yes it will look disproportionate. However, Lord of the Rings horses look a perfect match - size wise. So then it becomes a choice between converting and Chaos-ing a Lord of the Rings horse, or my original thought, casting one of the bodies... Either is definitely a project for another time. How were you thinking the paint test boars would fit into a Painboy surgery?
@monkeytroll: Spirit yes, voting and seeing all the cool old school being entered? Meh. Sally and the rest of her Bombshell Babes friends will surely get another chance in the future. As my goal right now is to just keep painting momentum, that will also help with that! Painboy Klinik sounds better than Painboy Surgery. Also requires less, finesse, than a Necromundan (or help me, an Infinity) clinic/hospital.
@JoshInJapan: Yes, yes it is. Thank you - I know you weren't sold on the idea to begin with.
@Don Qui Hotep: Another vote for the Chaos Centaurs - I'm obviously going to have to start thinking more about them in the near future!
Some more options - I specifically went after miniatures stamped 1985 this time around - while I wait for the stripping process:
Sir Kit Breaker (F5 Paladin), Vlad (Krakhead, not von Carstein) and Manfred (also not von Carstein) (BC7 Heroic Fighters of the Known World), Battle Lords (2), Skeletons (standard bearer and regular), Wraith and a solitary Chaos Thug.
@Viterbi: You may need to curb that enthusiasm for a month...
@JoshInJapan: Any painted up? They are quite characterful!
@Vejut: Cool, I can see that. In order to keep things within my time limitations (and not over extend myself), I was planning to keep integrated models to a minimum. But, such limitations can always be lifted when inspiration strikes - so I like to keep my mind open to it. Also - I haven't finished the fur paint experiments on the boars yet...
@gobert: I'm double blessed - I started early (1992? I remember holding out for the 2nd edition 40K boxed set) and failing to get rid of it all when I moved to the UK for a stint (my poor Orks... ).
Right, a decision has been made, I'll be going with Manfred, Heroic Fighter of the Known World for this months DPC!
Cleaned up, and base prepared for pinning. A you can see, I've clipped the tag and glued it under the base for posterity. Trying something new, I'll paint the miniature and the base separately this time. He takes up most of the base, so there won't be much to do there hopefully.
Pins and holes. Just need to run some liquid greenstuff between the base and the base topper (0.5mm plasticard sheet). The base topper was to hide the slot in the slotta base. Like my Chaos Warriors, he will be looking slightly off centre to the quarter base mark.
Current plan is a very Dark Angels paint scheme - dark green, white (not bone) and red - hope to do some freehand and/or decals on the shoulder pads and robes.
On a side note - my stripping bucket has provided quite a bit of variability with that large assorted group of miniatures. The paint is sliding off of Slambo and the plastic Beastmen, being a bit stubborn on the rest and particularly so on the Chaos Sorcerers. Glad I chose Manfred now. I also have a reason to try out the recommended Isopropyl Alcohol to see if it makes a significant difference. There were a pair of resin bases in there that appear, slightly damaged? They had prior impact damage, and I think the Methylated Spirits just softened the cracks.
Very nice. Same reason as the Chaos Warriors - in case I ever want to rank him up. It's only a slight angle , but it's enough that his sword should come out in front of someone to his left, rather than forcing him to the left of a unit.
I have a few of those old models as well. Gave them to a friend in my gaming group when he was trying to get his sons interested. Sadly they did not and when I inquired about the old models (as another player was starting a WFB army) I was told they had been tossed out.
@monkeytroll: It didn't even cross my mind . Not really the time for it, and he's a bit slight for a Chaos Warrior - which would require bulking up as well...
@Captain Brown: Apparently there are enough Orkmoticons. Unfortunately, regular people rarely understand the value. Give them the easy to build stuff next time (assuming you haven't been scarred for life and there is a next time .)
@Don Qui Hotep: Thanks for the vote!
Some liquid greenstuffing of the gap between the base topper and the base. (Picture shown after filing clean up.)
While I had the liquid greenstuff out, I also made some progress on Stabbit:
Nose, snout and forehead.
I had to add water to and mix my Liquid Greenstuff (it was starting to dry already...), and eventually found the sweet spot of applying with my silicon shapers, pushing into the gaps, and using a wet base brush to smooth out. Looks like some clean up and re-application will be required, but generally I'm happy with the progress.
Meanwhile, Manfred was base coated Mechanicus Standard Grey:
I traced Manfred's foot print so I can avoid puttig texture paint there.
As usual, I can afford to be quite sloppy on the first colour, especially as this will require drybrushing.
@Fifty: I can't take credit for the sculpt, and I guess I'm just lucky to still have it. I'll have to subscribe to your blog so I can see when you tackle it .
@gobert: Playing things by ear here with regards to the base. I wanted to make sure the texture didn't go past the line (on is okay), and I'm hoping painting in one colour should hide any gap. I'll see how it looks when I put it on. I'm coming around to JoshInJapan's query regarding the facing, and perhaps I have offset it too much - so this base may just end up an experiment prior to the final one anyway .
Gobbos are very unlikely to get any paint before Manfred is finished. The goal is to get them ready for undercoating. If the opportunity comes up to paint them for the DPC, I'll take it - in which case I'll want them as close to ready to go as possible. Hopefully I'll get Manfred finished well before the end of the month, and have next month's DPC miniature prepped and ready for the start of the month. That will hopefully allow me to branch out past the DPC in the future. Of course, I need start my LoER entry too... Hmmm... possibly I'm bordering on too much motivation .
@Don Qui Hotep: Indeed! Going for a cleaner paint job this time around.
@Viterbi: Well, holding a sword blade bare handed might be painful!
Drybrush Stormhost Silver. Not sure if it is making much difference . First coat of Caliban Green.
Second coat of Caliban Green.
Nuln Oil over Caliban Green.
I'm realising that his head, which should be a focal point, is, without excessive highlighting, going to be quite dark. Hopefully, the lighter plume and shoulder boards (all in combinations of white and red) will help frame his head and keep the focal point there... Tossing up whether I should do the piece between the helmet and plume in gold - I may just leave that until later when I can see more of the colours together.
Next steps are highlighting through Caliban Green, Warpstone Glow and Moot Green. I should then be able to do the red underside of the robe, before the white outside as I work my way inside out.
Painboy Klinik (LoER) Random Notes and Thoughts
Old Ork Codexii refer to Mad Dok Grotsnik's "Medical Tent".
I wonder if any of the Black Library novels go into greater detail on Ork buildings and day to day life
Old School Ork buildings aren't very inspiring. Also - would never hold Ork numbers?
I've been looking at a cross between Dental Surgerys and Torture Chambers for inspiration .
I was originally considering (prior to the "Medical Tent") a light weight structure with several rooms.
Now I'm considering something that would need to be relatively light weight and mobile - Orks aren't known for permanent structures right?
So that leaves me considering a semi-trailer / tent combination - too ambitious
Plumage and shoulders should be enough to direct focus on the head - especially if you're adding some freehand to the shoulders, you could use a pattern/design that helped 'point' towards the helm. Alternating red and white layers on the plume and some sort of chevron on the shoulders for instance.
Definitely wait until more co!ours are down before deciding on the gold -but sounds good.
Not sure on BL books, best bits of background I know of are the old Ere We Go and Waaargh Da Orks books.
Is the klinik connected with your Dark Angelz, or seperate? That might help tell you something about it.
Orks do have various permanent settlements, and in a variety of manners - occupied enemy places, self-built towns, reclaimed fortresses, crashed hulks, etc.
Battle sites are where the tents are often found - although tents would also cover trailers, pain-wagonz, or whatever else took your fancy according to the orks it belonged to.
If it's a mobile site for field medikalz then some things to think about would be claim pennants for the snotling orderlies to be placing by the wounded kustomers they find on the field of battle, the orderlies themselves, gretchin assistants, the various medical squigs, spare bioniks, teef bins for the payments, old limbs, etc.
Is there a mekboy on hand for some of the more interesting 'fittings'?
@monkeytroll: Thank you for weighing in on Manfred - Our thinking is scarily in alignment at the moment... Sadly, I think the old Ere We Go and Waaargh Da Orks books are just before my time (and even if not, probably would have been culled with my old Orks .) Klinik will definitely be connected with my Dark Angelz - but I suspect that will mostly drive the colour choices. Your copious thoughts will be added to the pile . (I particularly like the claim pennants idea. I'm also planning a dart board with syringes .)
@JoshInJapan: Pretty sure it was always going to be green...
Arakasi wrote: Current plan is a very Dark Angels paint scheme - dark green, white (not bone) and red - hope to do some freehand and/or decals on the shoulder pads and robes.
Yup! I usually consider my self a serious hobbiest (well, on a relative scale...), so I'm more used to readers pushing for unusual color schemes than accusing me of such .
Manfred progress continues...
Caliban Green, leaving the Nuln oil in the recesses. Two coats.
1:1 Caliban Green / Warpstone Glow over about two thirds. Two coats.
Warpstone Glow over about one third. Two coats.
1:1 Warpstone Glow / Moot Green edge highlighting.
Moot Green edge highlighting at junctions and raised points.
@Don Qui Hotep: I'm working on my wet palette (pictured in the spoiler here). I have a small syringe I keep filled with filtered water - but a drop from that is always too much unless I'm mixing a dropper bottle drip or two of a two colour mixture. Mostly I rinse my base coat brush, "dry" on paper towel, and then mix the paint with what moisture is left and that is more than enough in most cases. It probably helps that most of my paints are relatively new - although some require more water than others. I think the other big thing - which I consistently struggle with, is simply patience. The best results are built up from multiple thin layers...
@JoshInJapan: I tend to do each colour in two or three phases. Phase 1 - base coat and wash. Phase 2 - redo base coat over everything other than the recesses. Phase 3 - everything else. Basically, phase 2 and phase 3 merge unless phase 2 takes too long. I can tell from my previous post that in this case I did it all in one sitting - so two to three hours. They were very small areas after all .
@monkeytroll: Yes, part of the under-robe (not elbow pads). To be painted white...
Celestra Grey plume, Asurman Blue wash inner tabard.
Mephiston Red over Asurman Blue wash inner tabard.
@Don Qui Hotep: Sort of just worked out. I wanted to alternate the colours, but there are different numbers of columns on each row... Yes - it is time. If the Darren Latham videos are still up on YouTube, he had one for making an even simpler/cheaper wet palette than mine!
As the details get smaller, the number of photos do too? The tabard has been highlighted up through 1:1 Celestra Grey / Ulthuan Grey and pure Ulthuan Grey, then edge highlighted 1:1 Ulthuan Grey / White Scar and pure White Scar. I'm not really liking the Nuln Oil wash . Meanwhile the, under chain? (front) and sash (back) has been given their Caliban Green base coats, and the tunic sleeves and tabard top (back) base coated Celestra Grey.
Trying something new - I've gone with an Asurmen Blue wash over the tabard top (back) and plume to see if that works out better for me. If it does, I'll redo the rest of the tabard.
Lastly, I've been practising his cross symbol for his tabard. Red was my first attempt, where I thought I could use circles inside a larger circle to create the pattern - it didn't work out so well. The grey was actually done free hand. The green was an attempt to replicate the grey more consistently. If you consider the grey on the green should be white - I think that method works out quite well. (And if you followed all of that, here's a cookie!)
All looking good. I think the blue wash should work well - once it's been highlighted back up to white should just add that tonal variation into the colour.
Good thinking on the cross - could you use a paper template (thinking of something like a hole-punch) to get the initial circle down? I know the tabard is reasonably flat, but I can certainly never get a circle right on anything that isn't flat.
@monkeytroll: Check out below re blue wash. The problem with using a flat template on something that isn't flat is that the end result shouldn't look like it is flat . On the plus side, non flat surfaces do give you a bit of leeway to make mistakes / imperfections - I hope . I think if I draw it and tidy it up as I go, it should be okay... here's to new things!
Celestra Grey back over the Asurman Blue wash (also on plume.)
1:1 Celestra Grey / Ulthuan Grey (also on plume, but then I realised I didn't need to do so many gradiations on such a small area!)
Ulthuan Grey (also on the plume, along with Mephiston Red and Evil Sunz Scarlet.)
1:1 Ulthuan Grey / White Scar followed by pure White Scar (also White Scar and Wild Rider Red on the plume.)
In case it makes any difference - Caliban Green base above the tabard top.
I think it looks better. Any contrary opinions before I redo the rest of the tabard?
Amazing what work you put into the mini, the plume is excellent and the rest coming along very nicely! And being the minority, but I actually like the look on the lower tabard better, but only because it looks more grimey. If you are going for a cleaner look on the robes, blue is the better choice.
That's why I was thinking a paper template - should confirm to the surface better than card or plasticard I think you'll be fine without though - it's not a massively varied surface, and your point in giving a bit of leeway stands.
So, Manfred has a cross icon on his chest and at his right side. I was going to do these metal for the discs they are mounted on and gold for the cross. I'm having second thoughts about the discs. Green would give the most contrast I feel, but may get lost on the chest. Red and white being the obvious other choices... No rule that says they have to be done identically either... any thoughts?
I'd think green would kinda get lost, while gold might be a bit too many colors. Possibly red discs with white crosses, or chrome/aluminium discs and red crosses? Could also try something like vallejo's mecha colors red or model air signal red metallics?
I don't think using gold would necessarily throw too many colors on the model. Maybe a white or red circle with a gold cross? Although I agree with CB agreeing with MT, green and red is not only festive but would tie together all your different colors in a nice way - and the cross in the chest may be a good transition point from the tabard to the armor.
Automatically Appended Next Post: Oh and also, Manfred's looking great, obvs!
Blue shading worked out really well (good you didn't take my Nuln Oil vote ), model is coming along nicely. And I would think that a gold cross over silver disc might look good and not distract too much.
First, in response to a few comments before my last request:
@howie: Welcome and thank you. I'm making an effort to practise freehand in order to overcome that fear. Also practising beforehand on paper. Also practising redoing it when I do muck it up. You know what they say - practise makes progress!
@monkeytroll: I can always count on you for awkward ideas . The practise really does help - although it is hard to practise on non flat surfaces without an actual model...
For everyone else (or again!) - thank you for the compliments and ideas. As you will see below, I tried the gold on silver (it was easiest to try, just needing the gold). Spoiler - I won't be going with that. I think I'll try the red base next, and given I have two occurrences, I may try the gold and white crosses and see which I (and you) prefer...
Asurman Blue wash on the shoulder plates. Also, I believe the leather pouch(es?) are done here too (Rhinox Hide, Agrax Earthshade, Rhinox Hide, Doombull Brown, Tuskgor Fur - no half mixes).
Celestra Grey over the shoulder plates, Zandri Dust base over pommel.
Mephiston Red on the left shoulder plate, Khorne Red on the right shoulder plate. For the left, I marked the half way point on all four sides, painted lines between them, and then filled in the middle. For the right, I just paint in the cross lines and then fill in the alternate squares. I'll come back and clean this up with Celestra Grey later.
Retributor Gold base on the cross-guard and crosses. Dot in the rivets with Leadbelcher. The silver disc just seems to get lost here, not to mention the chain on the right side. Next step is to do the discs in red, and then try gold and white on the crosses. I'll also do the chain in brass.
Washed the cross-guard (Reikland Fleshshade) and pommel (Seraphim Sepia). Still more to do on these. Cleaned up the shoulder plates with Celestra Grey.
Base the cross bases Mephiston Red. I highlighted these up, but I'm not sure if it is these pictures or the next . Chain in bronze - Balthasar Gold, Agrax Earthshade, Balthasar Gold, Gehenna's Gold, Auric Armour Gold.
Base the cross Retributor Armour, and washed Reiksland Fleshashade I believe (the wash, I'm 100% on the colour ). I haven't done one in white . I think there is enough white on the model - so unless there is an uproar, I think it will be staying this way. Bone pommel and gold cross-guard is also complete at this stage. You can just make out on Manfred's left shoulder plate the start of the design. I got a bit ahead of myself - these are supposed to be highlighted up first! Also - I think I'll be better doing the gold lines in stages - red, gold, then red, rather than trying to paint straight lines...
Automatically Appended Next Post: Well, this will probably be appended, but whatever
Skulls (of course!) on the right shoulder, redoing the gold stripes step one on the left shoulder. (Pendants finished).
Better angle of the right shoulder - now with crosses too.
Better angle of the left shoulder, finished gold lines (step two), also swords or crosses - it is really small...
With highlighting. Left shoulder with tiny tiny skulls.
JoshInJapan wrote: I'm curious as to why you're basing this model at an angle-- won't that have him sort of staring off into space?
I originally had Manfred facing at the 5mm mark, or a quarter of his base, as this is what I did for the Chaos Warriors. I think I may have got lucky with the Chaos Warriors. Anyway, I tried a couple of different angles:
4:1 still has that sword crossing a fair chunk in front of the next model.
3:1 appears to be the sweet spot. He would be right up against this Greatsword if the Greatsword was facing directly forward (as he is in the previous picture), but it works out fine if the Greatsword is at the same angle. It would be even more apparent if the Greatsword was *actually* at the correct angle - ie facing towards the top of the picture, not the bottom .
Construct and undercoat a new base. This time I tried some masking tape over the pins (instead of blu-tack).
Masking tape removed.
Test fit. What do you think JoshInJapan? Better? I have, however, managed to offset him a bit to the right (his left)... I think I can live with that - we'll see. Oh, and if you are wondering why he looks a bit shiny? That will be the gloss finish (for protection). Don't worry - I'll matte him down later...
Paint in the foot print. Unfortunately, I can't be as cavalier with the finished model .
Armageddon Dust. Due to the nature of the inaccurate foot print, there was some test fitting to confirm I covered enough. I had a photo for Gobert about the previous gap, but I seem to have lost it. I'll take another one. This one definitely shouldn't have any issues with coverage.
Rhinox Hide base.
More to come, only two or three days left to complete!
A lot of those old Citadel models have the same problem as Manfred there-- they overhand their bases by a lot. It makes ranking them up feel like completing a jigsaw puzzle. Your solution works pretty well, I think, although I would be reluctant to do any cutting or drilling an a model that old.
@JoshInJapan: Technically, Manfred doesn't need to over hang - see further down. Also, nothing ventured, nothing gained - with regards to cutting and drilling old models - although I guess nothing lost either .
@Vermis: Thank you!
@Captain Brown: Almost - although not without a few set backs (see further down!)
Public Service Announcement: If you followed my "Adventures in Martian Ironearth" and were inspired by the lava bases - apparently a) I wasn't the first to think of this (not really surprising) and b) I suspect it would have been a lot easier with Mordant Earth - in at least you wouldn't need to do interesting things to get the black on top. Also, googling Mordant Earth will show you lots of lava bases, and other colours - like green (which looks good on Necrons). I suspect electric blue would look good too...
So, Manfred's base was progressing well...
Agrax Earthshade wash.
Drybrushing through Rhinox hide, Doombull Brown, Tuskgor Fur, Zandri Dust, Ushabti Bone and Screaming Skull.
Another Agrax Earthshade wash, gloss varnish, PVA and static grass.
And then, disaster struck!
Some old Tamiya Matte Varnish apparently was past it's use by date? I cleverly did a test on base 1 - which looked fine. I then did the edges of base 2 - and when I completed the fourth edge, I caught a glimpse of the first - and then saw what had happened to base 1....
I attempted to fix, first with more Matt Varnish, and then with Gloss Varnish - to no avail. If you use a spray and it goes grainy / cloudy, this will often fix it - but no - I think my issues were beyond that. I'm just so thankful I started on the base!
So, obviously, I was meant to have a third attempt at getting the base positioned right....
Third time's the charm!
I also managed to get some pictures of the texture base gap and comparison of angles on base attempt one and two...
Base 1 - a very small gap between base texture and miniature. Looks like an almost 45 degree angle.
Did a better job on base 2, just that offset to the right...
Final submitted image:
A few other notes:
I seem to have got some brown on the back of the robe - I'll need to touch that up.
With the Tamiya Matte Varnish failing me, I'd read or heard somewhere that Medium would provide a Matte finish - so that was what was applied to take off the gloss effect.
Medium needs to put on as thinly as possible, otherwise it will go cloudy and crack. The camera picks it up, although it is almost impossible to see with the naked eye unless you know what you are looking for it.
Lastly, I finished cleaning up my hobby room. This is important as it will allow me to leave my projects out, which will save me time. It will also allow me to start my LoER entry. Just in time for my Limbo to arrive today too...
Finished Manfred is great, the shoulder pads really set him off well.
Agghh, the dreaded varnish issues. As You say, at least you started on the base.
Interesting note on the medium - was that Lahmian Medium? I just picked some up and will watch for that.
Currently waiting on 're-delivery of Limbo myself - first time couldn't be delivered apparently - it was set to work address, and there's only skeleton staff in, so that could have been issue, although when they let me know if seemed they didn't have company name included. Confirmed work address and suggested they might want to ship this one to home address, but had no confirmation either way.
@monkeytroll: Actually, it was 'Eavy Metal Medium - although I'm sure what I heard was referring to Lahmian Medium - which I'm pretty sure is the successor. My experience could also be the age of my two pots... anyway - it can't hurt to be too careful!
Confirmation and Limbo seem to be like oil and water from what I've seen . Hopefully you get it sorted out!
@MacPhail: Thank you - x2 .
@Captain Brown: Indeed. I'm pretty careful (hence the test on the old base first) - but I wasn't expecting the delayed issue... I'll have to give it longer in future!
@Viterbi: Thank you. I really wanted to take my freehand up a notch for this one - even if it was very tiny!
Great job finishing off Manfred. As others have said the freehand is fantastic, especially on his little shields (I forget the proper name). The Grots look like they’ll be a fun bunch to enter in the painting comp.
Won't try to change your mind - I was really hoping you'd pick the grot oilers!
Manfred looks great. It's really rewarding to see him come together. Thanks for sharing your terrifying story about the matte varnish. Years ago I accidentally sprayed a can of roughcoat on my noise marines instead of primer, and last week I almost grabbed my can of wraithbone instead of matte varnish because they both have transparent lids. Oof. The thought of it is enough to give me the shivers! I'm glad that Manfred prevailed and you were able to get him submitted. Congrats on getting your hobby room clean!
@Gobert: Thank you. It's a bit high to be Besagews. I want to say tilting shields - but I can't find any reference to back that up. Little shields will do until we are corrected by someone more knowledgeable.
@Don Qui Hotep: Any one in particular? I'm only planning to do one (I have a whole terain piece to do too!) Yeah - I've had spray issues before (although never the wrong spray entirely) - and tend to do the varnishing by hand mostly these days, but it is a lot slower... Thank you x 2.
Limbo cataloguing finished:
Various bigger guys and gals.
Poor Rodrigo is missing his lance - and arm from the elbow. My only unfixable discovered issue. Limbo have already responded - a replacement will be sent ASAP once logistics get back to normal. No rush - I don't expect I'll have touched any by the time it arrives...
Arakasi wrote: @Don Qui Hotep: Any one in particular? I'm only planning to do one (I have a whole terain piece to do too!) Yeah - I've had spray issues before (although never the wrong spray entirely) - and tend to do the varnishing by hand mostly these days, but it is a lot slower... Thank you x 2.
Call me a simple man, but I think the grot on the far right with all the stuff on his back is a very good, and very funny, grot. Looking forward to seeing how your LoER entry shapes up!
Of course, he is the biggest grot, well, miniature anyway... He was my first choice before I found the orderly though. Maybe I can do both... (or more likely, complete whichever is closest to finishing...)
More sprue, less wheels.
I've been looking for some semi-trailer specs and found the Tamiya 1/14 scale 40-foot container semi-trailer. I think things should start shaping up now!
This looks super ambitious! Great use of that sprue, especially for the gooseneck trailer... inspired. Can't wait to see your gobbo for the painting contest... I have the one on the right somewhere. He's a great choice.
Making use of old sprue is always a good idea for the LoER challenge. It is also cool because others can learn from your build and do something similar because the sprue is available all over the world.
So, ummm... I fell off the wagon a little there... let's catch up...
MacPhail wrote:This looks super ambitious! Great use of that sprue, especially for the gooseneck trailer... inspired. Can't wait to see your gobbo for the painting contest... I have the one on the right somewhere. He's a great choice.
And now with less than a month to go, is there something above super ambitious? I can't wait to see my gobbo for the painting contest either - we will both be waiting a while...
monkeytroll wrote:Nice start on the klinik. Always nice to see sprue in action. What's the plan for the trailer - open, partially sided, fully sided with openings, other?
Well, the plan *was* fully sided with removable sides and tops, but now I might just need to settle for the main klinik part...
Viterbi wrote:Good luck for both challenges, your choices are very interesting and I'm excited to track the progress!
Thanks. One failed, one failing - I'll need all of that luck I think...
Captain Brown wrote:Arakasi,
Making use of old sprue is always a good idea for the LoER challenge. It is also cool because others can learn from your build and do something similar because the sprue is available all over the world.
That was the plan...
endtransmission wrote:Oh, I didn't see you resurrect. Maybe this will keep me coming back to the forums more!
Great work on the old models
Thanks! Great to see you stop by.
I at least managed *some* progress last month.
Shock absorber parts.
Shock absorbers together. I tried to add the curvature whilst plastic gluing (top). It wasn't very successful.
I then tried the hot water / curve to mug / cold water trick. Much better.
While I had the sprue out, I made some frames for the trailer floor.
In place test.
Meanwhile, I drilled the feet of the grots for pinning. I tried using some thin plasticard rod in the holes with some plastic glue to determine where the holes on the bases needed to go.
Completed grot bases with metal pins.
Undercoated grots. I think it may have been a little humid - the undercoat didn't seem to take as well as I am used to.
The orderly knife had bent back down again. Looking back at the photos, even before I applied the undercoat - but I only noticed now. Bending back was one bend too far and it broke off . Attempts to super glue back in place failed miserably - I just couldn't get enough surface to connect. In the end I decided to replace the knife with a greenstuff one. Here I'm pinning in some paper clip to form the structural base.
Meanwhile, I wanted to test two different ways to paint the grot skin, so out came the Nasty Skulkers. Left is Warboss Green (layer) directly over Mechanicus Standard Grey. As I suspected, being a layer, the coverage isn't as good - especially over the Blood for the Blood God from previous tattoo tests. Right is Waaagh! Flesh over Chaos Black.
Second layer. The Warboss Green covers the Mechanicus Standard Grey, but you can still see some of the Blood for the Blood God. Thankfully I won't need to cover anything other than the grey...
Biel-Tan Green wash over both.
Base rim colour matching. I'm pretty sure my original Orks are all Calthan Brown rims. Mournfang Brown is the official match...
Steel Legion Drab is definitely lighter.
1:1 Mix of Mournfang Brown and Steel Legion Drab. Not sure it is any closer a match than pure Mournfang. Definitely more effort .
Where from here?
I'm going to need to step on it if I'm to finish something for the LoER contest. Meanwhile, the monthly painting comp is Objective Secured themed and I have a bunch of grots that just need basing and would continue the grot experimentation I've already started.
Mainly, I just need to keep doing a little regularly.
I'm going to need to step on it if I'm to finish something for the LoER contest. Meanwhile, the monthly painting comp is Objective Secured themed and I have a bunch of grots that just need basing and would continue the grot experimentation I've already started.
LoER project of course. Just a little bias on my part.
That wagon needs some rails - way too easy to fall off...
Got this far on the Grot Orderly for the Dakka Painting Challenge Round 64: In a Supporting Role. Looking at the full image - I think I might strip and re-undercoat it before green stuffing in the knife.
What I had fished out for the Dakka Painting Challenge Round 65: Objective Secured! That was as far as it got...
@endtransmission: Sorry to disappoint.
And my League of Extraordinary Riveters Terrain Competition - Round 32: "Honor our First Responders" entry similiarly fizzled. More on that further down though...
Anyway, new month, new beginning, new focus and all of that.
@Captain Brown: So I can bow to your bias and have another crack at it!
Apparently the October Round of the Dakka Painting Challenge (Round 68) is traditionally Halloween themed, so I'm thinking something a bit more impressive (well, larger anyway) - Moucrum, also undead from the dark faction of Limbo: The Eternal War.
I'm hoping I can blow through the undead pretty quickly, and the lesson from last time is I need to make regular progress on the terrain. With 9th now here, it makes me want to return my focus to a 40K army - I suspect like before I'll probably try to complete the Knights first, but it wouldn't hurt to also attack the odd Ork. It's been so long, (and army composition has changed so much since 5th!) I really want to start small with the Orks and build up some painting muscle memory before finishing off some of my completed conversions from, seven years ago? From the painting rounds I completed before, it will help to have a backlog of ready to paint models that might fit any given theme (I think that only the starting Space Marine round in March and Halloween round in October are known beforehand.) And I still have my Warhammer Underworlds as well. I guess what I'm trying to say is, expect there to be some hobby butterflying...
That Moucrum model is really fun (especially in the background of the pic of the ossylite guard; "Carry on, chaps. Pretend I'm not watching"). I love his vertebral scythe and his carrion mien. Good luck this round of painting/riveting! Excited to see to which flowers you extend your hobby proboscis.
I know the feeling. Painting has been a little... sporadic through August. I still have a few bits and pieces that I need to photo and add to the various related threads... maybe tomorrow. I've done the same for 40k and started again, with some basic infantry to create the base of a force before going into the more custom/unique pieces that are boiling away in the back of my head.
I need to think of something for the eternal war theme, but undead seems like a good call. Those look like nice figures, especially the big beast you've lined up for halloween!
@Don Qui Hotep: Moucrum is (almost) all bone. I'm thinking of a "fresh" bone effect on all of the "skin" areas - the red shades and white highlights should look like skin - or exposed muscle - and a cleaner bone effect on weapons and armour - his back foot, the scythe and anything else that looks armour-ish. Should be fun. Can't start him until October, but I can prep him before then.
While I'm on plans - the plan for the Ossilyte Guard is blue robes, gold trim (raised royal guard), and a lot of weathering. The miniatures themselves are already extremely pitted - so rust and grime should be easy? Of course, first step is prep - a bit of plastic reshaping required and clean up (they came assembled.)
@endtransmission: I tend to get focussed, and my focus was, elsewhere, the last couple of months. I still struggle to have painting keep my focus as well. Looking forward to seeing the few bits and pieces you need to photo, and what you come up with for the Long War theme.
@Viterbi: Good to be posting again! But more importantly, building and painting again.
@endtransmission: I have more trouble with partially built projects on the go (Well, and unpainted...)
So, luckily my progress is better than my updates...
First, cleaning up the Ossilyte Guard. Most of the mold lines were pretty small / hard to spot - but the plastic is tougher than I am used to (GW). Checking the Kickstarter, the models are PVC and the bases and weapons are ABS. Anyway, these are the lowliest of pieces in the game, so if anything escapes through - I'll live with it / use it as a learning experience for some of the more impressive pieces.
Some of the Ossilyte Guard required some straightening.
Some hot and cold water later...
Mechanicus Standard Grey basecoat and we are ready to go! (Note: Some of the straightening, unstraightened. Not as bad as originally, but good to know for future efforts).
First base coat of Kantor Blue. Interestingly, this wasn't as dark as I was expecting - but I think that is a combination of the grey basecoat and being only the first layer... If it had been a black undercoat, I'd probably realise it is simply coverage.
Second base coat. Better, probably still go a third.
Meanwhile, for the LoER competition...
Prepping lengths of sprue to make the frames for the sides.
@Viterbi: If you (or I, looking at your models) can't tell the difference, maybe I'm the one that should be feeling bad (or one or both of us need to improve our photography )
Third coat of Kantor Blue and I'm finally happy.
Asurman Blue wash.
Kantor Blue dry brush. I'm not usually one for dry brushing, but the surface here is just crying out for it.
Alaitoc Blue dry brush.
Hoeth Blue dry brush. Hopefully not too subtle here - the plan is to eventually go over with an Agrax Earthshade wash with everythng else to tie it all together...
Beginning the first Rhinox Hide base coat. Man this takes a long time...
First Rhinox Hide base coat complete (x10). I came across some bits of robe/blue I missed on some of them, and I can see some missing brown even in this image. I think I will only need the second coat of Rhinox Hide thankfully though - this was starting to feel a chore!
Nice updates on the Ossylite Guard. Thanks for sharing the before/after on the straightening of the plastic; I like when hobby blogs include quality reviews! Definitely an improvement based on those before/after pics.
Arakasi wrote: @Viterbi: If you (or I, looking at your models) can't tell the difference, maybe I'm the one that should be feeling bad (or one or both of us need to improve our photography )
You misunderstood, I feel like on every close-up picture of my minis, I can count the brush strokes, because of my laziness to do thin layers Yours look very smooth and good to see more colors pop up on those warriors!
Back again with an update. These were completed last week and uploaded last weekend, but I've only now found time to present them as I have been away from home this week. I have a week off next week, and the Long War painting competition also ends next week, so hopefully some more frequent updates over the next seven days...
@Gitsplitta: Hopefully you will still like it now that it has advanced some....
@endtransmission: Makes sense. I think I'll need to pay more attention to that in the future! I didn't really know what I was going to need back when I undercoated them...
Attempt one at dry brushed Steel Legion Drab. Basically I didn't feel I got enough coverage on my first attempt, because I was using a small dry brush and attempting to not "go outside the lines" too much.
Attempt two. I upgraded to a medium dry brush and went to town, lines be damned.
Dry brushed Rakarth Flesh.
Test dry brush of Pallid Wych Flesh.
Dry brushed Pallid Wych Flesh.
Touch up dry brush of Pallid Wych Flesh.
Touch up the Rhinox Hide.
Test stipple of Mournfang Brown.
First attempt stippling Mournfang Brown. This was with my medium stipple brush, but I was having great difficulty getting the sweet spot between too little and too much :(.
Attempt two, this time stippling with my small dry brush, which worked out much better IMHO.
Stippling Wild Rider Red.
Stippling Fire Dragon Bright.
Stippling Zandri Dust.
Tidy up the Kantor Blue.
Agrax Earthshade wash test (right) - although, still just freshly applied.
Second Agrax Earthshade wash test (right) - also still just freshly applied.
@gobert: Thank you. However, it's not meant to be non-metallic - as you will soon see...
@endtransmission: Thank you.
@Viterbi: Indeed they have.
@Captain Brown: I find painting can be a bit of a rollercoaster ride sometimes. I'll do one layer, and be happy. Then the next will look screwed up. Then the next will look like it was meant to all along. I record the steps mainly as a reference. Yes, this did look dodgy at this step - but the final result was fine - so don't get disheartened. (That way leads to unpainted miniatures in my experience...). It is helpful for me. Bonus if anyone else gets anything out of it .
Why did I think skeletons would be easy? I'm running out of month...
The test Agrax Earthshade washes from before, now dried.
Everyone Agrax Earthshade washed. Photos with the blinds open just never look as good...
@Gitsplitta: I have less fear of veering away from that now, given the main colours are now in place .
Quick update while I wait for a wash to dry... The layers are getting pretty small now, so the progress is faster - which is good - the deadline is approaching! It also means that if you are actually interested in seeing the differences, you'll probably need to click through to the DakkaDakka gallery to inspect the full size image.
Reiksland Fleshshade wash over the Retributor Armour.
Liberator Gold layer.
Stormhost Silver layer.
Stippled Trollslayer Orange. This was meant to be a Ryza Rust dry brush, but I don't have any Ryza Rust and thought Trollslayer Orange would be close enough. I also stippled rather than drybrushed, mainly to keep the areas touched nice and tight.
1:2 Firedragon Bright / Medium wash in some crevices.
1:1 Nihilakh Oxide / Medium wash on and around the gold.
Base coat the bases Mechanicus Standard Grey.
Agrax Earthshade wash.
I'm feeling I didn't drybrush the Leadbelcher heavy enough at the appropriate stage, as I wanted more of the silver of the armour to come through. I may have been a bit heavy handed with the Nihilakh Oxide as well. Live and learn I guess.
Automatically Appended Next Post: Maybe final pic - I need to see if I can get better photos tomorrow morning. The metallics don't come up very well under direct light...
Also, progress pictures still to come - although I think I am missing some due to the rush...
Dry brush the base heavily with Mechanicus Standard Grey.
Dry brush the base moderately with Dawnstone.
Dry brush the base lightly with Adminstratum Grey.
Work Coelia Greenshade wash into the cracks and over some bits of the brickwork, attempting to replicate moss.
I ended up having to do the Coelia Greenshade wash several times to get the colouring I was after. I managed to stain some less than irregular areas, so went back over with Dawnstone and Adminstratum Grey dry brushes to bring it together better.
Ten finished Ossilyte Guard!
The Dakka Painting Comp entry has been updated above, but here are two other pics I took that weren't used:
Back again. I haven't been too idle - well apart from updates!
@JoshInJapan: Thanks. Just finding and following tutorials - and learning along the way. I think I mentioned I'd do a heavier Leadbelcer drybrush in future - they weren't suposed to be quite that corroded.
@Ezki: Thanks. Yeah - it was a struggle, and again, took some wind out of this month's efforts - but ten done.
@endtransmission, @Gitsplitta, @gobert: Thanks.
@Don Qui Hotep: Thanks. There wasn't too much to the robes in the end. The flagstones came out pretty much how I wanted them too - which is always nice for a first attempt at something without a tutorial.
@Viterbi: Cool cool or damp earth cool? Bludgeoning weapons also work
So, for my "break", I received my paint and tool racks from Back 2 Base-ix and put them together. Decided on an Orky green base and walls with transparent shelves.
The Rack: Straight Section
Plus internal corner and in its final place.
Plus tool rack.
Took some time to assemble, but so far I'm very pleased with it.
Thank you Yorkright. Speaking about the monthly competition...
After the diversion above, and then my regular week a month away from home, it was time to get back to the monthly painting competition.
It took me a week to straighten, clean up, re-straighten and gap fill this monstrosity. The mold lines are very fine - but they are there - and I know the mostly drybrushing technique I will be using will catch every... single... one... of them - that I leave / miss. Again, I don't like working with this plastic. GW plastic feels, softer? Like it wants to be smoothed out. This stuff just seems to fight me at every turn. Anyway I'm running out of month and need to move on...
Mechanicus Standard Grey under coat - because that is all I have readily available . Oh, and trying out my Citadel Painting Handle XL for the first time.
Khorne Red base coat.
Second coat of Khorne Red, plus first base coat of Rhinox Hide.
Carroburg Crimson and Agrax Earthshade washes (wet).
Ceramite White base coat.
Second coat of Ceramite White.
Same progress, but first time picture of the back.
Best I can tell it is a tail weapon. It seems impractical as a hand weapon though, as the tail does not seem long enough to allow any real swing reach in front of him. Perhaps he is simply keeping it from dragging in the dirt behind him...
@gobert: I'm not sure it is turning out quite as I hoped (my posts are behind my progress), but it was the plan...
@Captain Brown: Thanks - not sure if I'll need it yet (for finishing anyway...)
The problem with running to a deadline is that you get less time to post updates, which is then less time for helpful advice to appear at a time when you can use it, but I digress... Full size images are in the gallery as always.
Agrax Earthshade wash over the Ceramite White.
Steel Legion Drab dry brush over everything else. This may have been a mistake - I'll come back to this.
Steel Legion Drab applied to all of the flat bone areas from above.
Rakarth Flesh dry brush applied to above.
Ushatabi Bone dry brush applied to the Ceramite White areas.
Pallid Wych Flesh dry brush to the other areas.
Screaming Skull dry brush applied to the Ceramite White areas.
Carroburg Crimson and Agrax Earthshade washes.
It doesn't look it so much here - I think because the wash is still wet - but later you will see the red has more of a purply tinge to it - which I think was the Carroburg Crimson over Steel Legion Drab...
He's looking good. Some purple washes into the darkest parts of the red and some very slight white highlights would really make him pop. The purple will add more depth, while the white will make it look wet and sticky for extra gruesomeness
@JoshInJapan: I'm leaning towards leaving it meaty. He has a lot of detail, and painting bone over the top - well - check out the previous picture before the second red wash - I think it just makes it too hard to choose where to look...
@endtransmission: Great minds and all that. In my next set of pictures (not this post) I've played with adding a bit of purple and blue washes. It's not making a lot of difference, but then I'm wary of over doing it. I'm also considering gloss varnish over the red for the same effect.
Phoenician Purple base coat.
Leviathan Purple wash, Mechanicus Standard Grey base coat. (Also Steel Legion Drabbed the skull.)
Retributor Armour, Leadbelcher, Kantor Blue and Ceramite White base coats, Reikland Fleshshade, Nuln Oil and Agrax Earthshade washes.
Phoenician Purple mixed with Genestealer Purple then Emperor's Children layers.
Leviathan Purple, Coelia Greenshade and Asurman Blue washes.
Leadbelcher shield rims, Mechanicus Standard Grey, Dawnstone and Administratum Grey dry brushes.