Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you: No adverts like this in the forums anymore. Times and dates in your local timezone. Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance. Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely. Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net. If you are already a member then feel free to login now.

Current way seems alright.

Maybe order them in terms of importance?

I think you should have sub-sections like "Painting", "Tools", "Techniques" under your 3 general categories.

Also General:
- Googly-eyes can be used to make awesome things for the holidays.
- Pipe cleaners (from arts and crafts- stores) are wonderful for giving temporary jolliness to your spehss marheens. No glue or magnets needed.

n0t_u wrote:Current way seems alright.

Maybe order them in terms of importance?

I will, but not now; got some painting to do

Don't buy Green Stuff from GW. It's really called Kneadatite Duro, and you can get it much cheaper shopping around.

Don't use Green Stuff for bases and scenery. Use Milliput. It's cheaper, it has more of a texture to it and it dries hard. You can sand, drill and file it once it's set. It's not as easy to work with.

You can mix kneadatite and Milliput to create a putty that's easier to work with, but sets hard.

Pundabaya wrote:Don't buy Green Stuff from GW. It's really called Kneadatite Duro, and you can get it much cheaper shopping around.

Don't use Green Stuff for bases and scenery. Use Milliput. It's cheaper, it has more of a texture to it and it dries hard. You can sand, drill and file it once it's set. It's not as easy to work with.

You can mix kneadatite and Milliput to create a putty that's easier to work with, but sets hard.

thats good to know!

added

Finecast doesn't have to be sprayed, just CAREFULLY wash it in soapy water...then air dry it with a cold hair dryer.

Worked for me ^^

Always keep all your leftover bits in one huge box if you want to spend hours finding out if you have the piece you need for a kit bash or conversion.
http://www.reallyusefulproducts.co.uk/ do some of the best modular plastic drawer sets from tiny up to huge.

hmm, not too much incoming recently.....

anyway, i decided to turn this into an article, so it wont be lost on page 100 forever.

keep adding stuff!

got more?

would like to add but i am not able to top the things already said here... i think i have to sit down and think a bit more to give something...^^


hope that helped others to see this good thread and maybe they add some more...

Any particular tips on battle damag to armor? Both body armor and vehicle

In the few days since I joined Dakka I have picked up one tip that I have had the chance to act on: Micron pens. In all the time I have been painting models I had never thought or heard of using them. They are great! I am now busy drawing unit markings and putting tiny writing on my troops.


Automatically Appended Next Post:
Oh just thought of another. When you are first starting up don't get tempted to buy the very best tools, there are often different ways to do the same thing and you won't know which is best for you before you try. Once you know what you want then buy the more expensive stuff. :GW: has a grand markup on it's tools and they are not always the best for the job.

I agree, initial incompetence can take away any advantage those tools would have and just waste money. Start with half decent then go to the better stuff. I myself am still using brushes from a $2 set I got a couple of ages ago. They may not be good, but they're good enough for what I need for now.

However I'd suggest getting a decent 00 or smaller, quality does seem to have a huge impact for that size.

added your advice. Thanks!

Newbs - Decide early on who you are painting for - yourself or for the crowd at large. If you're painting for yourself, and taking constructive criticism, you'll enjoy the hobby a lot more.

Secondly ignore the screaming fan boys who will tell you what you've done or are doing is wrong. Remember why you paint - and if you want to paint your orks brown or yellow, enjoy yourself - dont listen to those who tell you they are not "cannon".

steelcult wrote:Newbs - Decide early on who you are painting for - yourself or for the crowd at large. If you're painting for yourself, and taking constructive criticism, you'll enjoy the hobby a lot more.

Secondly ignore the screaming fan boys who will tell you what you've done or are doing is wrong. Remember why you paint - and if you want to paint your orks brown or yellow, enjoy yourself - dont listen to those who tell you they are not "cannon".

I couldn't agree more.


Automatically Appended Next Post:
Do you want to put pointers to good tutorials in this?

If so here's Gitsplitta's one on basing:

http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/326927.page

yeah, if there is a great tutorial, post the link! i think i already posted catattafishs ork-skin tutorial.

We should get this stickied!

Lysenis wrote:We should get this stickied!

yeah, would be nice, but yakface told me that p&m already has too many stickies, and of there are too many of them people will just ignore them..... so i guess it wont get stickied anytime soon. Well, i sure understand the problem, so I fixed it myself turning it into an article

I use milk bottle lids (the plastic ones - other drinks are available) to mix weathering powder washes in.

When taking photos of my models I set up the camera about 1m away & zoom in, NOT using the macro function.
This allows me to get more of the model in focus and reduces paralax error.
Also use a low aperture setting (f-stop number) like 4 rather than 8.
It's what I did to take this photo:


I keep my green stuff in the freezer to keep it fresh.
I also buy it in 2 seperate lumps from Heresey rather than in a strip.

Ask your detentist if they have any tools they are going to throw away. Use for sculpting.

Ask your pharmasist for measuring syringes. I get mine for free!
They're especially useful when airbrushing.


Automatically Appended Next Post:
don't throw away old electric toothbrushes - these are especially good for cleaning resin models.

Resin (esp from FW) can shatter if you try to break off the big chucks they sometimes come with. The following also applies to really thin plastic parts like tank grab rails.
Nip the sprue off a little bit at a time. The aim is to reduce the stress that the model is put under when attacked with clippers.
I sometimes even use my saw on tiny parts.

Washes go on better over a gloss finish while drybrushing goes better over a matt finish - remember varnishing doesn't always have to be done just at the end, it can be used at different stages during the painting process to help the paint / inks act as you want them to.

When painting on damage to tanks don't just splash some silver paint on the model.
Vehicles (real ones) have a primer coat. Sometimes this is black but not always. It can also be red oxide (dark flesh is good for this) or grey (eg codex grey).
First add the 'primer' colour then add the silver / boltgun metal.
For more realistic scratches you can add shaddows & highlights to these damaged areas.

Specific- when working w/ inks and washes and you want to keep things moving right along, try a hair dryer on low setting / low heat. Be sure to move it back and forth to avoid blowing the ink / wash out of recesses, etc. This technique also works with regular paint.

Disclaimer- I have never had a problem w/ metals or plastics, have NOT tried on resin!

thanks guys, especially bubber. Very helpful indeed!

Ill add it now!

Skalk Bloodaxe wrote:try a hair dryer on low setting / low heat.

Some hair dryers have the option to just blow air - if you are getting one specially for your hobby, look for this feature!

MrMerlin wrote:thanks guys, especially bubber. Very helpful indeed!

Ill add it now!

my pleasure Mr Merlin.

re primers:
I use Halford's (an automotive chain here in the UK).
They do black, white, grey, red oxide & a yellow which is close to desert yellow.

Girl painting has a number of good and varied how to videos:

http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/recentTopics/showTopicsByUser/39199.page

Anyone got more?

I'm back after Christmas and thinking.

Here's one I have from personal experience: If you have a problem do not be afraid to ask. The people on Dakka are very forthcoming with polite advice and pointers.

He who asks a question is a fool for 5 minutes; He who does not is a fool forever. (Confucius).

Poor mans pointers,
1. I have used paint out of the tube from a craft store for years. They have high quality paints for much less.(that doesnt mean its better) Experiment with the different products!. The best mud/rust wash I ever used is a 5$ bottle of red brown liquitex, that holds the same as 4 or 5 bottles of GW paint,has a handy lid and washes like an ink with an almost gloss finish. for yellow I use winsor newton, its not about the company its about whats best for given situation.
2.Save on grass; a wonderful array of flocking materials are also easily and cheaply found at a craft store.(a craft store is not a hobby store!)
3.The best weathering powders are usually made out of pastels. do what they do,use pastel chalk with a file and create all the dusts,muds,rusts and snow you want with very little money.plus you get way more choices!
4.You can use a file instead of a scalpel for mould lines.but its better not to. I have ALWAYS regretted a mould line I missed or left on...always. which leads to:
5.You cant make up for hard work with money unless some one else is doing it for you.
More to come...

@ Sonophos:

thanks for that, I put it above everything else

@zariart

Thank you very much too, I've added it to the list!