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how about this i worked on it for most of the morning i think its unique and has visual contrast and matches your theme

Oh come on! You've got issues with 18" diameter plasticine rod soved up his kazoo??!! This is a fraternal brotherhood after all....


I could replace it with a wire easily enough. Once he's painted I could even probably take it through his foot in order to minimize the visual impact... but I just didn't think I could display the fig (even the WIP) properly unless he was suspended as I'd originally intended. I must admit that I haven't gotten the type of response I was hoping for with him though... so I must be missing the mark. I was hoping for a more feral, all-out-attack feeling (being a chaosified MW) than could be accomplished with a more sedate pose.

sweet, go with the wire. based off of the pose he needs to have some Air between his feet.

As he is having a jump pack, could you add some 'vfx' smoke and flames coming out of them and hide the wire inside that ?

@vignor: Interesting idea.... I'll add it to the possibilities that I'll consider. Never thought of adding limb blades to the dread though... that is definitely a keeper of an idea. Thank you! I think I'd go with the bigger blades like on the right forearm of the marines... I have some ork choppa's that could be modified to the task pretty easily.

@StubbyGB: I actually thought about using two of the plastic supports, one coming from each jump pack jet and going down to the base where I'd do a bit of whirling, swirling smoke. I think I could putt that off. I could wash the plastic rods a bit with black to give them a smokey/jet exhaust appearance. I also thought about getting a couple of armorcast's flamer effects & putting those in the jets... but I didn't want to get too over-the-top & distract from the figure itself.

He's a Venerable Dread, right? So, not only has he seen a lot of fighting, but he's also been repaired before.

I think it would look neet to do most of him up iin your camo color scheme, but have an arm or leg done in boltgun/silver with details in tin bitz/brass/gold, and some battle damage where the arm and/or leg connects to make it look like your dread was just repaired but had to be re-fielded before the work was complete. Maybe even model something like an incomplete wire connection.

Anyway, it's just a thought, keep up the great work!

Solar_lion wrote:

whalemusic360 wrote:What the hell did you do to that poor SH Termi Ice?!?!

Make it stop!!!!!!!!!!

I thinks this chapter gene seed needs to be destroyed!

fix'd

Couldn't stand to be this close without seeing the final form. Here is the build with a proxy mechanicus pad in for the chaos one (left arm). Everything is temporarily tacked in place with green stuff.

I really like it!

Tasty biscuits. Maybe we should start a separate great miniature trade blog?

That's what Styro did for his swap with me... I just post this here as well since it technically is a Mantis Warrior *and* is another prototype possibility for my Vanguard. I work so slowly though...

On a side note I think his lead foot is a little big, will probably trim that puppy down a bit 'ere I finish.

We DO have a seperate mini trade blog........

Yes of course, but I don't want to clutter that up with the various stages of the process... maybe one build shot and one final shot to encourage others to participate. I figured that was more of a meeting place & final show-off place than are real WIP for dozens of trades. But... I'm OK either way.

I'd be fine if it had WIPs form a bunch of people. It is a PM blog after all.

Works for me... I'll move my WIPs for the exchanges over there... though if anyone wants to start a specific WIP blog for our exchange, I'd happily double-post.

I agree, the WIP has help me learn to be a better painter as well as a source of inspiration. Unfortunately cannot show WM’s trade as the camera I use does not take very clean close pics.

Been pretty preoccupied trying to get my first swap done, but I have at least done something for my dreadnought. As you've seen, I'm a big fan of hanging banners/scrolls from my dreads. There are a lot of really neat banners out there, but they are the same few styles... especially limited are styles of large banners. So to prevent my dreads from all looking the same, I've started making my own banners out of green stuff. I've made a large hanging banner, similar in size to the one hanging off the assault cannon on the first dread I re-painted, to hang off the left autocannon on the venerable. My banners are definitely directional as I always like the one's with a lot of wind motion in them as they add action to an otherwise pretty static figure.

If folks want to see what it looks like in it's "raw" stage, I'd be happy to post a pic. They are very easy to make and the design possibilities are endless.

Do it! (post a pic of "raw" stage that is )

I sceond Arakasi's notion!

Easy enough.

All I did is take a wad of green stuff, smash it into a rough rectangle with my fingers, then use a wet paint brush handle to roll it out into a sheet. I then carefully lifted it off the rolling surface with a hobby knife and let the sheet dry over night. The next day I took the hobby knife and cut a rectangle out of the sheet, though I left the bottom irregular as I thought it made for a nice, torn looking banner bottom. I then added angles and cuts with a knife, and finally pressed a tiny little chain (which you can get from model railroad supply companies very cheaply) into the green stuff to act as the hanger. Darn near anything would do though. Finally I twisted it up a bit, like it was furling in the wind & gave it a definite flow to indicate wind direction (or movement). Thicker sheets are harder to do this with... this one was actually pretty thin so it was easy to make look wind-blown. After twisting I let it set for another day/half day (i.e. the next morning). It's still flexible but is essentially cured now.

As you can see it's been filed on and nicked up... but that'll all disappear with painting. Not counting the drying time it took a grand total of about 3 minutes, and you can make it any size, shape or condition that you want.



You could do a much fancier attachment between the banner and chain if you wanted to, I'm just lazy & figured where this will be no one would notice anyway. When you attach it you can either leave the chain loose... which is cool because then the figure actually HAS motion rather than just implied motion. Conversely, hang it while the chain is loose & then with a toothpick apply just a bit of super glue along the length of the chain. This locks the chain in place, but your banner will still hang naturally at the nadir of the curve. If you use regular super glue to attach the chain in the first place, be careful! A chain this small will wick the glue right along it's length and lock it in a split second, no matter where you are in the hanging process.

Gitsplitta wrote: So, I'm working on my Venerable (rifleman) dreadnought painted in the tranquility sniper pattern (yellow). I started doing the hoses and barrels like I normally would, with a black base coat to be "metallicized" later. But now I'm thinking that perhaps I shouldn't do that, instead, go with full camo like on a real military vehicle.

I have several options as I see it:

1. Go with full camo, and pick out the details, edges, etc. with subtle but different colors in hopes that it provides enough visual interest. Look at my existing snipers... I tried to do them this way (more-or-less).

2. Since the camo pattern is rather stark (yellow and black), I could do the other parts (barrels, hoses, etc) in plain black...and just run with the contrast & not worry about if it works as camo or not.

3. I could paint the black areas some other color.... not black, not the camo yellow... perhaps a buff or leather of some sort... something that provides contrast without blowing the camo effect clear out of the water.

I'd go with a 90% camo pattern. You want it to *look* "full camo", but 40k-specific details to pick out easily.

1. Start with a "full camo" base model. Then add Insignia in full, bold color. Show hoses, cables, exhaust stacks, lights, lenses, and weapon ends (gun barrels) in full color for contrast. It makes the gaming aspect much clearer, while still driving home that it's a "full camo" model.

2. I'd still metalize, as it looks "better", by adding more interest to the model. You should wash it with black to tone the harsness down a bit.

3. not necessary, unless you're adding camo tarp. You can do something on the base for color / shape / texture contrast, tho.

4. Do whisper-thin "hard" edge highlights, pure blacklining, and deep edging so the rest of the model "pops".

Very sound advice John, thanks! I like your reasoning.

... I also have always enjoyed your avatars by-the-way... they keep me from falling asleep in front of my computer. ...

Glad to help!

Finally got a chance to peel myself away from the marine swap project and get a little work done on the dreadnought.

Yellow primer and sepia wash gets me my base color, will work the yellow up from there. Now I'm just picking out all of the metallic and/or black areas in black. This also helps define the yellow spaces for me later. You might see here why I seriously considered leaving things like the gun barrels black... contrast looks sweet with the yellow.

The black barrels do look good, but you're not playing Imp Fists.

I think, once you get the camo done, you can use some dark / black washes over the metallic to get to a near-black barrel to contrast against a near-yellow camo.

Awesome!

Is that the yellow army painter stuff?

Looks like it, I've used some myself. Nice work, the Sepia does a neat job of Shading that Yellow. I'll bear that in mind for future Projects, perhaps.

Yeah, I'm using the Army Painter primers a lot lately, I use the green for the regular mantis warriors and the yellow for both my Bad Moons and the Sternguard/Tranquility Snipers.

I really like the yellow primer shaded with the sepia, gives it a very warm, earthy tone which works great for the final color for the bad moons and gives a nice starting point for the tranquility color scheme.

Very neat work!