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Made in us
Dakka Veteran





Some more things painted and chipped up:









   
Made in us
Dakka Veteran





Another building which im pretty happy where the coloring has gone.

Still todo is green up the walls, make some things more marbley, and generally just clean up the windows and add some drippings.








   
Made in ar
Lone Wolf Sentinel Pilot





By the foot of the Andes

Beautiful palette! Really inspiring, all around

 
   
Made in gb
Ambitious Space Wolves Initiate




Bromsgrove

These are amazing, really inspirational scenery

   
Made in gb
Member of a Lodge? I Can't Say





Clacks Scotland

This thing blows my mind!

the grimey and dirty / broken wasted feel is awesome! REALLY convincing as the dark future!!

Love it!

As my father once said to me : You cant polish a turd... but you can roll it in glitter!
MY P&M BLOG:http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/543290.page#5900175



 
   
Made in us
Dakka Veteran





Thanks guys! i'll probably have a couple of more final pics tomorrow. I made some of the front grime more green and generally have been working to clean up the windows and things, and more washes.

Once i get the lights/ladder done i'll probably stop for now and move onto something else

   
Made in us
Dakka Veteran





Quick update: i took a break from the big guy to go ahed and move the other half of my gothic ruins to the new scheme.

I also drybrushed over my coliseum into the new colors as well. I still may try marbling up the floors but it still is great to see the scheme working for the different buildings.






   
Made in gb
Member of a Lodge? I Can't Say





Clacks Scotland

Colour choices here are spot on!

As my father once said to me : You cant polish a turd... but you can roll it in glitter!
MY P&M BLOG:http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/543290.page#5900175



 
   
Made in us
Dakka Veteran





I promise i havent been idle! it's just i switched over to working on some bikes and i have yet to figure out a good way to poist pictures. the idea was a carpaint blue which transitions from blue to turqoise that's shiny and metallic, surrounded by very steampunky brass and copper bits.

so once if igure out how to take the picture ill post it lol

either way ive also been working on my buildings, and quality images aside (ugh they suck too, i promise better ones soon) im really happy with how it's turning out. it really looks like it is 500 years old and just barely holding on.

obv there are still a lot of details yet but that's the general idea








the undercoat for the undone side:






   
Made in us
Dakka Veteran





Some better images, including getting in the giant fuse detail things!





   
Made in ke
Longtime Dakkanaut





UK

Cool colour scheme mate , robbing some ideas (particularly like the fuse's ) for my Zone Mortalis !

   
Made in us
Dakka Veteran





Okay so these are better pictures, a bit more color accurate. Not quite right yet but someday i'll figure out a good way to do this. Mostl yjust a better camera and possibly a lightbox.

One thing I think i want to do is un corrode up the top half ot he building a bit. Its so corroded that we're losing contrast and a sense of the original color of it. so i want to simplify it a bit so it forms more of agradient of clean at the top (where there wouldnt be much damage anyways) and then suuupper dense corrsion at the bottom near all the pipes/generators/etc.

Either way i havent been idle! just been working on other things other than the board. I had to get some storm talons ready for the monthly event at game empire so focused on that a bit. My original scheme is complicated but jlets just say for more elite vehicles it's highly tin bitz based, and now im experimenting with some old brass highlights as well and other rusting. The idea behind is is that it's seen heavy combat and use over the centuries. In order to enhance the corrosion i took the technique from the buildings of first adding the finest grain sand i have as part of the dripping. It helps give that "crusty" feel without being too overwhelming i think. Then it's jsut a matter of the Vigris wash that GW has along witha are ust wash and orange and yellow washes as well. Finally I highlight with some richer jade green at the "source" of the corrsion. So far Im pretty happy with the result. As always I may have gone a bit much with it on the other first plane but i think this one is fairl ywell balanced and makes sense. we'll see how i feel over tiem!













This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/04/21 08:27:24


   
Made in gb
Member of a Lodge? I Can't Say





Clacks Scotland

Mmmmmm crustyness!!

that last terrain piece looks brilliant! as if there has been an acidic atmosphere raining on the building for about a millenia!

As my father once said to me : You cant polish a turd... but you can roll it in glitter!
MY P&M BLOG:http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/543290.page#5900175



 
   
Made in us
Dakka Veteran





thanks! i may still clean it up on the top have justtt a smidge for more contrast, but overall im really happy with how they turned out. they really do just look OLD.

   
Made in us
Ragin' Ork Dreadnought





Deep in the Outer Boroughs of NYC

Your corrosion work is truly inspiring. I also really dig the the two riveted pillars stuck together as a support for the balcony/walkway. I might just loot that idea.

Waaazag da Kan't Stoppable (ORKS) ~6,000 points
Orks-in-Progress, Finished Orks.
Terrain I'm making.
The Darion Sector War Campaign.
Into the Jaws of Hell 40k campaign. 
   
Made in us
Huge Hierodule




United States

I have to agree. The weathering looks spot on and stunningly realistic. Fantastic job.

Hydra Dominatus: My Alpha Legion Blog

Liber Daemonicum: My Daemons of Chaos Blog


Alpharius wrote:Darth Bob's is borderline psychotic and probably means... something...

 
   
Made in us
Dakka Veteran





Thanks guys! And here is blurry sneak peak of something else i've been working on! Bikes!

the basic idea is a steampunk type coloring with brass/tin bitz/etc, and then a carpaint type dual color scheme for the bike/armour.

Once if igure out hwo to take a picture of it you'll get a non blurry version but the two tone works preetty well.


   
Made in us
Dakka Veteran





Yeah still trying to figure out how to do decent pictures of it. On the plus side finally got in my terrain paints! So I can finally start basecaoting the tiles!

   
Made in us
Dakka Veteran





I have terrain paints! So exciting:



Somewhat better picture sof the bike. Once i get my new camera there will be new sets of everything, but this is the best i got for now:






   
Made in us
Dakka Veteran





Yay basecoating!





   
Made in gb
Boosting Space Marine Biker




Bristol

*crys*

This is what I want my cathedral to look like when it's done - am in awe of you Largo!
   
Made in us
Dakka Veteran





Thanks!

More basecoatingggg



I promise the blue isnt that strong in the light lol, its just how this stupid phone camera decides to whitebalance things.



This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/05/06 17:11:47


   
Made in gb
Ork Boy Hangin' off a Trukk





Bristol

How much does that cost compared to the standard Forge World board?

Oh da grand ol' Duke of Ork
'e 'ad ten fousand boyz.
'E marched 'em up to da top ov da hill
an den dey made some noise!

An wen dey woz up dey woz up!
An wen dey woz loud dey woz loud!
An wen dey woz both up an loud
dey made all da grots go deff! 
   
Made in us
Dakka Veteran





If you know what you are doing... it's gonna be a lot cheaper. If you dont.. probably comparable. On the flip side tho making it yourself gives you the freedom to really explore the depths of the tiles.

The forgeworld tiles are gorgeous, but dont really have a lot of DEEP craters, or exploded tanks/impacted planes/etc,
Furthermore there were for a while only 4 of them, and no tile has any sort of river system. So while the costs are this point are probably about the same, Im getting a lot more of the stuff that i wanted to see in my tiles.

IN general though here are the costs you're looking at:

6 2x2 MDF tiles ~ 25 bucks

1 4x8 sheet of 1 inch corning foam ("pink foam") - this for me at the time was 75, which suddenly made the costs more comparable. However they seem to be on for general sale again, which drops the price down to like 20, so this is a big area where it gets more or less expensive than the FW tiles.

A whole lot of foamcoat . - i wanna say about 100? You need 25lbs of it, with 12 lbs of superfine sand/grit/whatever (they sell a grit that works well, otherwise just get superfine sand) and then the foamcoat strengthener stuff and a lot of latex paint.

1 4x4 or so sheet of 1/2 corning foam - agian like 15 in theory
some normal 1/4 thick foamboard - 20 bucks?

all the paints to cover this - 50 bucks
the "intangibles" like tank bits/rocks/broken things/plane bits/etc. Uhh ebay is ur friend here, look for bits piules, or just have a colelction already. Also scour hardware stores for stuff you like and then break it! lets say 50

so all told that's what, 300 or so? Then factor in the "oops im new at this" factor and say more like $450-500. vssss 75lbs per city tile and then an additional 90 pounds each for 2 more of the new tiles or about $800, say $850 for similar "oops im new at this" and also paint and whatnot costs, since you still have to spraypaint it all and whatnot.



   
Made in us
Dakka Veteran





So still just working on the basecoat and some initial layering. Overall the terrain coat paint is working quite well, and really is a good balance of paint consistencies. A few things i've noticed:


The bulk of the inital work is just gluing down those last pieces of rubble, and brushing off the pieces you dont care about. I covered the whole table in multiple coats of a glue wash, and spray on adhesive, and i still had about 10% loose when i started to brush on it

The relative delicacy of the rubble piles means you have to dab on the paint as well, instead of brushing. Otherwise even if it is glued down the hairs of the brush can get caught in the rubble and just rip bits straight off. As a result painting these tables are brush killers! You're brush will end up poof and.... pretty much only good for drybrushing (but it'll be amazing for drybrushing!)

So get el cheapo brushes! use those 50 second 1 inch brushes from home depot, dont using anything nice here until much later!

   
Made in us
Dakka Veteran














   
Made in us
Dakka Veteran





Some more closeups of the current progress, after a wash pass.

The dark brown lins are sorta to represent the dirt underneath the slabs, they''ll likely get a touch greyer tho in the end.










   
Made in gb
Mysterious Techpriest







Coming along really nicely.
If you plan to make it all look as good as that little corroded building, it's going to look really awesome.




 
   
Made in us
Dakka Veteran





that's the plan! first up is getting the marble effect on all the white areas, and then detailing up the wreckages

   
Made in us
Dakka Veteran





The first of the marbles! It's definitely coming together now. The veins/detailing is a bit off scale but im still happy with the result.

Also sponges! sponges. Seriously the key to this. That and it's rpetty easy to redo if you mess up (if i really feel like i need to rescale it it's not a big deal for example). You just hit it with a wash of your white and do over.

But yeah get one of those natural art sponges made of real spong, then rip it up to make it jagged, and use that to dab the washes on. Then just find some of the natural lines the spone made after it all dries and hit it harder with your wash color of choice, followed by touches of blue ink. Black would also work well too.

This tutorial has been invaluable:

http://chestofcolors.com/how-to-paint-marble-bases/

One thing i have been doing on top of it tho is to do a very diluted wash of my initial cream color over the whole thing after i do the veining. While I love those bases on this scale it gets a bit too dark and contrasty, so by doing a light cream wash over everything it just tones it back a bit. Then Im adding ard-coat and high-closs varnish on top to really seal the polished marble deal.

Colors I've been using for my wash stains (think all those flesh washes):

so a yellow flesh wash (coat d'arms 133 ink wash flesh)
ogryn flesh
seraphim sepia
a brown middier wash i mix up from black ink and a rust color game ink.

This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2014/05/13 16:28:24


   
 
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