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Oh i see what you are saying green, remember, we are still just in the experimental phase. I want some wider tunnels too.

Playing with the plywood chunks


Their uniform sizes intrigue me, not sure if I'm going to use this method yet though.


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We shall have to see which construction method gives the best results. The competition has begun!

Question, WHY do models need to pass each other in a cramped sewer?

sounds like the beginning of a joke...like why did the chicken cross the street...
which i actally can´t come up with...

and they deleted my pic... for crying out loud... i alerted a mod... what the hell....!

as for suckling on rivets...well i am tough as nails...!^^

oh and dstein... that one man tunnel referrence... ok i grant you that for something like that you are set! other wise i still see my argument valid... i think it would make more fun if you could bypass a mini...just my taste maybe...

but seeing your last pic it somehow looks goofy having a wider tunnel...also i think then it would even more look not right when added the brickwork there... the arch would be not right...so i guess i have to withdrawl my ideas^^

the sketch looks lovely! if that playful arangement of playwood chunks is a way of how it could look to have a sewer interjection... then i hope for something done by you!

vik

While we do this, I thought I might as well snap extra shots and post a tutorial on the curved Brick, since foamcore is hard to explain sometimes.


Regular 1/4" foamcore.

Take the tip of your knife and loosen the top layer of card

Peel it off carefully

mark off 1/4" grid


draw/carve the vertical mortar lines


draw/carve the horizontal mortar lines


A knife, all the way to the card layer, followed by the scratch awl for widening of the groove.

And that's about it!



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And here is the much-requested 2" platform

And the comparison with the skinny tunnel

and how long did it took you to make this section?


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ohoh... decisions, decisions...

Viktor von Domm wrote:and how long did it took you to make this section?

I dunno, maybe 20-30 mins

Dude every time I go a day or so w/o reading this thread I come back to 3 unread pages and 2 new projects! Got tired up building "up" so you're digging "down" now? I have to say that foamcore board trick is likely one of the most sick tricks I've seen on this thread so far, so very simple and easy and so "why didn't I think of that" but the simplicity is deceiving, it's absolute genius!!!

I'd say that I'd love to try it but in all honestly I know I won't get around to it, I'm so completely buried w/ everything else that I'm intentionally not trying another new thing for a while, just going to focus on what I have going on already and hope to find some inspiration again when I'm ready.

Will be back in a page or 2.

somehow the right section now looks more friendly than the other... also i think your model choice was quite funny...animal is looking quite bemused upwards...^^

Thanks Skalk, but Which construction method and size is best? vote!

You should add a metro system, with a broken, rundown train labeled as "123". Just saying'. lol

Both. Mix it up. I used to work for a large public facility that had an extensive underground network of tunnels for various things, and because they were built over different periods of time they all looked different.

If you need a direct "on or the other" answer, the narrow platform seems more familiar to me. But for game playability, a wider platform will accept larger bases (like Terminators)...

calgar 2.5 wrote:You should add a metro system, with a broken, rundown train labeled as "123". Just saying'. lol

I have often thought about a destroyed Elevated rail on my Imperial City Table, that project will eventually happen, it's just a matter of materials and time.

Ok, now that I have a 2" platform, everyone prefers the narrow 1"? I will most likely use both types of construction, but one size has to be dominant.

I say 2" dominant for playability, 1" for mixing it up and making for locations where people have to make bad decisions.

You do realise that you must make a fully working subway train set now?

Chibi Bodge-Battle wrote:You do realise that you must make a fully working subway train set now?

Oh how I wish! Let's not get too excited just yet Chibi!
Must you deface our banner? I guess i admit, the riveting is a sickness.

There is soo much to think about on this project, many many variables to plan for. I just packed up Vik's envelope for shipment tomorrow, boy is he going to be surprised!

There just seems to be so many excellent rivetters about lately I couldn't resist

I think a combo of the two widths would be better. Think about where the entrances to the tunnels will be (if you are going t make those fixed points) and if you want there to be places in the tunnels that are harder to get too. The tunnels don't need to go all the way round the table, too. here could be cave-ins, blocking certain passages.

I laughed so hard when I saw this I think I hurt myself.

thats hilarious!

Skalk Bloodaxe wrote:

I laughed so hard when I saw this I think I hurt myself.

At the airport currently and got funny looks from the people around me: I started laughing so hard!

Chibi-Bodge, you cheeky monkey! LOL!

What can i say....this project gonna be really big and interessing! keep working on it man!

look at the size of that thing...ihad to use that phrase seeing that envelope!!! holy posting system! that´s sure something worth waiting for...

go to 1:10 ^^


as for the sections.... a mixup would be a good decision but i think the look of the 1" section looks somewhat better as the curve looks more natural where the 2" has some look of a collapsed tunnel on it...

and chibi... how could you.... the wrath of the leaque will be upon ye....repent! i command evrey able member of the leaque to go to chibi´s thread and give him a good trashing!

Okay so, this is how my weekend went, hit the hobby store and picked up some rod, tube, H, strip and a couple of sheets of plasti all in .40
then i proceeded to suck massively at working with plasticard.

granted, picking a slanted bunker/underground entrance bit probably wasn't my best choice, then i come to the thread and see this lovely underhive tunnel system you're making and now i simultaneously hate you and admire the hell out of you

Got any tips for cutting things square? i'm using damned sharp blades and a metal ruler but i think at this point a set square may help.
you make this all look WAY to easy heh

Another bash tonight and i'll post results wish me luck
pete

Cowabunga dude! Its sewer fighting time!

I love so much of everything you have going on here. Especially the random use of bits is amazing to watch, and the tunnels here at the end. I would love to see some damage though. That bridge I think a page back is beautiful but there is also something sweet about wear and tear of a battlefield nature on such nice terrain.

Melonfish wrote:
Got any tips for cutting things square? i'm using damned sharp blades and a metal ruler but i think at this point a set square may help.
you make this all look WAY to easy heh

For H-column and such, I use a little cheap aluminum Mitre box with 90 and 45 guides. and a jeweler's saw, of course you can use a hacksaw, razor saw, hell even a power saw if you don't mind cleaning up the little bits of melted plastic schmutz it makes. Sharp x-acto blades are only the right tool for 1mm thick stuff or less. For plastic sheet:
Score and Snap, Score and Snap, Score and Snap,
Score and Snap, Score and Snap, Score and Snap,


Ok, now to address the popular desire to have caved in sections. I appreciate the enthusiasm for this idea, but you need to remember that the whole concept is based on the idea that the plywood construction will support the weight of the wood "streets" on top. It has to be strong enough to support terrain on top. So how do you propose that gets done and allows the caved-in sections? I agree this would look awesome, but i need some suggestions on how to do it. Some practical, engineering suggestions.

You could always make the tunnel normally, and then pack it full of rubble in the "cave-in" section.

Aye, i get the score and snap for sheets, using an x-acto to score the section i want then snapping it off, not a prob, gives a pretty clean edge.

its getting squared pieces cut from the sheet i find fun. like i say i may cheat and use a set square.
what i didn't expect was adjusting for the way the cardboard connects. i.e. the cardboard peices are a set length, then they connect via a thin layer on the underside, this allows them to flat pack and still fit into things, i didn't realise at first that in order to build these from plasticard you have to account for that gap!
so mk II up tonight lol see how i go

Melonfish wrote:
Got any tips for cutting things square? i'm using damned sharp blades and a metal ruler but i think at this point a set square may help.
you make this all look WAY to easy heh

Another bash tonight and i'll post results wish me luck
pete

I use a lot of plastic card in mold box building when casting, means they gotta be square and go together with no gaps. I use heavy duty clamps to clamps down my card and ruler/T-square/Ste Square and then score & snap.

We wish you intelligence, because luck runs out.

We wish you intelligence, because luck runs out.

cool comment! and i mean it...

as for thze support... you could always use some sort of steel structure to help support the weight... inside and inbetween like a skeleton...