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Made in gb
Thunderhawk Pilot Dropping From Orbit






London, England

vent wrote: It's good, move on to the armor. ^_^


Agreed! More please.


No trees were hurt in the making of this sig, however many electrons were disturbed.
 
   
Made in ie
Longtime Dakkanaut







Ok then, great!

Next 2 days will be solid painting as I am on weekend, starting at 7pm today.

Hopefully I will have plenty of updates, including starting on the iron warriors + demon prince.


Automatically Appended Next Post:
And here she is.

Paint scheme chosen by owner, he also based her and painted + added the tendrils.

You may have to zoom in for detail.





This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2010/09/01 12:20:11


   
Made in gb
Towering Hierophant Bio-Titan





Fareham

You can when you are 4ft11 and would like to not be off your face within the hour!
I handle alcohol shockingly well for my size (lewl Irish) but I still need to mix up spirits so I can actually enjoy them ¬_¬

I will take on any model, I have just been having good luck so far with very interesting ones, hah.




Thats too cute
Thinking about it, im 6,4 ish, so a good foot taller.
I do bet you dont hit your bloody head half as often (labouring job, site work, scaffolding, just everything out to get me)
cheap night out would be a dream.
I generally use a tumbler and go through a glass every hour or so while im painting, which to get that much in a club would be me broke for the week.
Also, the only time ive ever mixed JD i was ill lol, so no more mixing for me.

The good thing i guess is that alot of decent models are highly detailed, which may put newer painters off and give you something nice to paint.



Loving "Erica" lol, its actually bigger than i thought too.
I do however have my money on those orks against the elves (BS2 isnt much, but a shoota beats a spear any day)

   
Made in ie
Longtime Dakkanaut







Yeah I do think the Orcs might have the advantage in that setup

Quick update while I take a break from tonights painting.



I am happy with how he is coming along considering he is 3 layers max from primer. I feel more and more confident working with white as I go. Washes are complete lol over white prime.

Korv is on his last 2 white layers, then Im going to tidy his black plates. I will update once that is done as watching the whites get slightly whiter just plain cannot be entertaining While I doubt I will get his armor highlighted tonight, his base colour and white tidying should be all done by the morning.

I also decided to try out making a little wet palette after reading a lot of good things about them, and wow, I don't think I will ever be able to to back to just using a plate/tile/normal palette.
Having the paints stay wet for as long as you want and having such minimal cleanup time is amazing, I am really happy with how much it is speeding up the downtime it takes to keep your paint at the right consistency.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2010/09/02 05:28:31


   
Made in ca
Auspicious Skink Shaman





Mississauga, ON

Really liking the how the skaven is coming along, especially the bronze armour.

I too heard a great deal on wet palettes and would like to try it out my self one day. I have finally started to use flow aid with my paints and that thing does wonders, including increasing the dry time of the paint, but too much will thin down the paint and you'll be doing a lot of layers - _ -

Make sure you have a lid for your wet palette in case you get tired or used too much paint...the lid will prolong the paint well over night....or so they say

Accepting Commission Work at This Moment
Check out my site or follow the following links: Painting Service List / Cool Mini or Not for more info

Also check items for sale Here

Have a moment....why not check on what I'm working on  
   
Made in us
[MOD]
Solahma






RVA

http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/314626.page

   
Made in ie
Longtime Dakkanaut







i'm using a small plastic blister box, one that is just one piece but hinges at the bottom.
That means I can close it again with a really good seal as well as having a nice bit of depth to place the wet paper in.

I have about 4 layers of thick kitchen roll cut to size in it and kept wet, then 2 layers non grease proof cooking paper, and it works absolutely perfectly

I might eventually look for a professional one, but my little one is good for now.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2010/09/02 07:29:26


   
Made in ie
Longtime Dakkanaut







The details on Shrike were so insanely easy compared to this model.
White has taken absolutely forever but is finally all done. Some of the iconography was so small that I literally had to paint on the white with a 00000 brush, then redetail it by painting wash into the recesses. Absolutely crazy.

Anyway, the "hardest" part is finished now, and his blueblack armor base is also on, so time to move onto the armor edge highlights I think.





This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2010/09/03 05:39:24


   
Made in gb
Auspicious Skink Shaman




Kent, U.K

Lol Erica, I happen to know one, doubt she'd be entirely happy with this use of her name! Korv is coming on solidly, the eyes especially are done well, somthing I have a bit of trouble with.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2010/09/03 10:07:39


and  
   
Made in gb
Fixture of Dakka






Ol' Blighty

i have my korvadre fairly decently painted, but your tips on the blue-then-white armour, and how epically you didi the face, makes me want to re-do it (but i'm scared that the multiple layers will ruin the detail)


DS:90-S++G+++M++B++I+Plotr06#+D+++A++++/eWD251R+++T(Ot)DM+
JB: I like the concept of a free Shrike roaming through the treetops of the jungle. I'm not sure that I like the idea of a real Shrike sitting on my couch eating my Skittles.
corpsesarefun: Thank god I missed be nice to shrike day.
greenskin lynn: because of all the skittles and soda, you basically live off sugar water, like some sort of freakish human-hummingbird hybrid. 
   
Made in au
Water-Caste Negotiator





Perth, Western Australia

Alright. You've gone and done it. Time to paint!

Check out my Tutorial: http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/302457.page

Necromunda Tally: Chemos' Seekers
W-1 L-1 D-0 
   
Made in ie
Longtime Dakkanaut







Ohai shrike fancy seeing you in this thread regarding shrike!

I had to repaint Korvs face already and it didint lose out any of the detail, I just had to use very thin layers. The models detailing is rather severe, unless you really laid the paint on thick, I don't think you would lose out much by repainting. Or maybe you could strip the resin? I am sure I saw a thread about how to do it recently

Cpt.Klaw haha, ravenguard tiem??


Serious question though. His jetpack has 3 parts. The front grill which I painted white, the middle which I left black, and the back part where the actual jets are.

Now looking at the final part, I am not sure how to handle it. Leaving it black is an option, but I am worried if that is going to throw off the colour balance, as it will be 2 large black areas touching with no additional detailing. The only other option I have would be to paint it up silver, which all his doodads will be like his chest emblem, belt, little badges etc, but I think that too would be overpowering :S Bit of a conundrum with it at the mo.

I guess I can just leave it black right till the model is finished and see then, but I have an irritating feeling that there will be too much pure black in that one area :(

As for the model, I have greyed out all his silver areas and badab'd them. There will be a few worn gold parts, like the cross on his knee and the skull on his leg (bone wont fit with the owners army, a gold ornamental skull would) I am leaving armor highlights for last incase the metals get a bit messy.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2010/09/03 09:53:03


   
Made in hu
Regular Dakkanaut






Wow these models look awesome. subscribed.

The flesh is weak!  
   
Made in us
Decrepit Dakkanaut






Madison, WI

Hmmmm.... have to see what the jump pack looks like when the rest of the model is finished. You do have the symbol on the right jet, and the studs on the left... those could be painted. That might give you enough visual interest to make them jump pack "balance" correctly with the rest of the model.

Anvildude: "Honestly, it's kinda refreshing to see an Ork vehicle that doesn't look like a rainbow threw up on it."

Gitsplitta's Unified Painting Theory
 
   
Made in gb
Rampaging Reaver Titan Princeps






Bristol

Hey Ifalna, this is some seriously good work!

Could you post the recipe for that skin, it looks awesome and i always have trouble doing pale skin! :/

As for the jets, what about painting them with a blue OSL kinda thing? Will try and find a link where i've seen it before.

Here you go, something like this from SONS of ORAR http://www.dakkadakka.com/gallery/88558-Assault%20Marines.html

This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2010/09/03 10:33:51


 
   
Made in ie
Longtime Dakkanaut







OSL could work alright but it would look pretty out of place with the rest of his units, which is a problem. It's also something I would like to practice with before I used Screwing him up would cause massive nerdrage.

The skin is about 80/20 astro grey to skull white as a base. The washes used to pull the detail out were all badab and flesh mixes of varying thickness. Highlights were the base colour with more skull white added per layer untill the final extreme highlight was pure skull white. Trick is to water the paint done slightly more for each layer, so quite thick for the base up to milky for the final highlight.

   
Made in gb
Rampaging Reaver Titan Princeps






Bristol

Ah, yes its probably wise to practice before hand lol

Thankyou, i'll give it a try later!
   
Made in ie
Longtime Dakkanaut







Hehe Osl is on my list of things to attempt to learn, including NMM also, which although I am not a huge fan of, I do need to learn how to do to a competant level incase it is requested for a miniature.

As for Korv, I think the best thing I can do is just finish off the metals, get the black highlighting done including on the back of the jetpack, then have a good look at it. Gitsplitta is right that the white icon on the back may help balance the colouring, and perhaps just painting the nobbly parts with the same highlight as the black armor will be enough.

   
Made in gb
Sword-Bearing Inquisitorial Crusader







Ifalna wrote:Hehe Osl is on my list of things to attempt to learn, including NMM also, which although I am not a huge fan of, I do need to learn how to do to a competant level incase it is requested for a miniature.


OSL is a relatively easy technique to learn as long as your proficient with highlights and glazes. OSL also seems to add a little extra to the model and my friends seem quite impressed if it's done well. I practiced on my brothers Plasma Gun weilding marines and after 4 attempts I can now do it to a decent level (not amazing but getting there ), If you have some skaven lying around Warp Stones are good to practice OSL on.

NMM is frustrating to learn but if your proficient at blending then it becomes easier, I keep on trying and I can only pull of the basics (paint that vaguely resembles metal).

I'm very impressed with your painting prowess and the Shrike you painted looked amazing. As for Korvus, I think Gits is right about the white icon on the back.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2010/09/04 02:44:40


40k Armies
Marshal Helo's Strike Force: 1700 points (Complete)

DA:90S++G+M+B++I+Pw40k04++D++A++/wWD316R++T(F)DM+ 
   
Made in my
Bounding Ultramarine Assault Trooper





Just moved to Australia.

All of the paintings are amazing. Keep up the good work.

"Straight Fething Silver" Tanith first and only

I have a reputation, Modile, a reputation as a fair, honest man who treats his soldiers well and supports them in the face of darkness. Potentially, that reputation makes me soft. It seems I understand failure and forgive it. Some, like Kowle, believe me to be a weak commissar, not prepared to take the action my rank demands. Not prepared to enforce field discipline where I see it failing. I am an Imperial commissar. I will enflame the weak, support the wavering, guide the lost. I will be all things to all men who need me. But I will also punish without hesitation the weak, the incompetent, and the treasonous.
I am a Commissar. I am empowered to deliver justice wherever I see it lacking. I am empowered to punish cowardice. I am granted the gift of total authority to judge, in the name of the Emperor, on the field of combat.
— Colonel-Commissar Ibram Gaunt, prior to the field execution of his uncle General Aldo Dercius  
   
Made in au
Water-Caste Negotiator





Perth, Western Australia

I'd say leave it black and apply some weathering.

Check out my Tutorial: http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/302457.page

Necromunda Tally: Chemos' Seekers
W-1 L-1 D-0 
   
Made in ie
Longtime Dakkanaut







Captain Klaw wrote:I'd say leave it black and apply some weathering.


Going to wait and see how it looks before doing anything drastic.


Iron warriors have arrived, so going to go spend a bit of time playing with masking for their warning stripes, and a bit of weathering with a sponge. I also ordered some Vellajo metallics as I hear they are superior to GW, and some of their thinning agent. No idea when it will arrive though as I have had no response from the ebay seller just yet.

   
Made in gb
Bounding Assault Marine






Somerset, UK

Been Having a good look at your figures and all in all they are very good. your most recent models are by far the best. i guess by the look of things that you thin you paints down the right amount. the face on the new rave guard captain is lovely. have you thought about having ago at sourced lighting? i reckon it is well withing your capabilities.

Chris

THE EMPEROR PROTECTS

have a look at my blog: http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/274891.page 
   
Made in ie
Longtime Dakkanaut







Hi Chris.

I have indeed thought about having a go at source lighting and other advanced techs, but at the moment I only have time to work on commissions and I would rather not experiment on them! As soon as Korvydae is done I will be starting on tabletop standard termies and waiting on a shipment from a customer, so I can try out some new techniques in between. I was testing out weathering on a sprue last night with a couple of different mixes and some sponge, but I will be trying it out on some models asap

I honestly believe I have had more improvement this year than I have had in total since I started painting, which is almost entirely due to this site and a couple of painting blogs. It is a shame that so many people are not aware of how great some of the free resources available are.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2010/09/04 22:19:20


   
Made in ie
Longtime Dakkanaut







Quick update on Korv.

I personally feel my biggest failing are metals. I am rarely happy with how they come out in general, so before I went ahead with his silvers, I looked into different ways of strengthening the variation in metallic colours. Something I have seen mentioned repeatedly in blogs is to undercoat grey for a strong steel, and brown for a rusty silver metal, so I tried out undercoating with a deep grey and not painting any silver at all into the recesses to leave it showing through.

I am quite happy with how it turned out and I left it as simple as possible. Based mixed dark blue grey, layered chainmail, washed with badab/asurman, layered mithril. I don't want to dull the shine so I won't add another wash on top as I find it really dulls down metals, but I think I will carefully re-depen the recesses around where the metals join the skin with a wash before moving onto his golden hammer If anyone has any ideas on how to improve on this please do tell, as I reeaallly do struggle with metals




   
Made in ca
Auspicious Skink Shaman





Mississauga, ON

Metallic colors are also my weakness, especially when it comes down to shading and highlighting...could never grab the concept.

As the basecoat....I normally go about doing black or grey for silvers and brown for golds.

When it comes to shading the silvers I would use brown/blue/black washes....mix and match the washes to get an interesting look at the end. It can be a slow process but worth it at the end if done properly.

So far the model looks great....really liking the whites. The silver is also coming along nicely.

Keep it up

Accepting Commission Work at This Moment
Check out my site or follow the following links: Painting Service List / Cool Mini or Not for more info

Also check items for sale Here

Have a moment....why not check on what I'm working on  
   
Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut






First off Nice stuff and great job on the raven gaurd guy.
Well for metalics I have a few tips for ya.
1 Silver is a serious pain in the ass to paint and get to look good but I usually just blend up from black to mithril silver it seems to work. then a quick wash in the recesses and viola.
2 If you need help with gold I always start off with 2/1 scorched brown shining gold and then blend up using burnished gold and further blend in mithril silver until about 3/1 mithril/burnished gold. then a wash in the recesses with grimstone sephia.
Great job so far.
Looking forward to see more stuff.

Eric

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2010/09/06 06:44:21


 
   
Made in gb
The Hammer of Witches





cornwall UK

This is a very helpfull blog. I'm trying to get a nice even white for my RT marines but it looks grainy if you zoom in. I will try your black + building up white in watery layers.

And don't listen to that mean old empchild (lone dissenting voice in a sea of praise), Your painting is well above average.

   
Made in gb
Lead-Footed Trukkboy Driver





Ireland

Korvy is looking ace!!! I will try this painting grey then silver on top and brown then gold on top for all future metals!!! Thanks dakka'ites!!!!


Sometimes you have to roll the hard  
   
Made in ie
Longtime Dakkanaut







Thanks all, and happy it was of some help, weetyskemian44

I started off the Tabletop standard Iron warriors termies last night. While the only thing finished is the striping, they just need another 2 gold highlights and then their washes to grime them down a bit and darken the joints. After that it is just a bit of weathering on the weapons, and to pick out the details.

My Tabletop standard is in general 3 layers + 2 washes max, so I had to limit myself timewise with these while still trying to get a decent result.

Midprogress -



Fethin stripes ¬_¬

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2010/09/06 12:44:35


   
 
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