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Damn roll-over !!!

 Gitsplitta wrote:
@Alf: Thanks! Moderation my friend... it's the key when engaging in "risky" behavior.

You've been reading my tales of woe in the Mosh Pit haven't you?

looking good gits

For sculpting woes - I recently made the switch from Greenstuff to Milliput, and it's so, so much easier to work with (as well as being cheaper). I somewhat doubt I'll be going back to Greenstuff now.

I have a tube or two of milliput, but I've never experimented with it. What's it like?

I find it lasts a bit longer than the Greenstuff (when working with it) and is a lot smoother. I've just been using the GW scultping tool and a little damp and away it goes. It's closer to working with a sort of... rubberised clay than anything at the end of the day.

I find it great for bulk work, or for vehicles and scenery. It has very good properties, ie it dries incredibly hard so sanding and cutting to shape is no problem.

You mix it like an epoxy putty, but mould it like clay, using water to solvate it. You can make gap-filling solutions, its essentially water soluble.

Its great for gap-filling on minis, but i find it too coarse and soft when attempting to sculpt detail, and prefer GS.


Essentially have a mess around with it and see how it fares in your own experience.



(I have found a 50:50 GS:Milliput mix works tremendously though. It combines the excellent detail properties of gs, with the easier workability of the milliput, and it dries stronger, and takes to sanding/cutting better.)

What I intend to do next, is try some Milliput Black (the finest grade) and see how that differs.

That's interesting, I wouldn't have thought the two different compounds would mix. Do you mix each compound first then combine them, or mix all four ingredients together in one mass??

Thanks for the details guys, I'll definitely give the milliput a shot.

I use milliput silver grey, it's as smooth as I could ask for. I can't compare it to GS as I've not used that and I'm still learning to use milliput so can't comment on how easy it is to do small details, but I seem to be managing ok. There's a few examples in my blog, but they may not be the best examples as I'm hardly the best of sculptors...

I do love catching up with your thread Gits, as always fantastic work, you are a great painter and have some really nice ideas.
And your dedication always impresses me, keep up the good work

 Gitsplitta wrote:
That's interesting, I wouldn't have thought the two different compounds would mix. Do you mix each compound first then combine them, or mix all four ingredients together in one mass??

Ive only tried it a few times, but its very cool, i do agree its odd though, given the two seemingly different properties of the compounds.

I mixed gs and milliput separately, as i would normally, then just mixed them 50:50.



I cant give any better advice than just try it all out. Most of all experiment. Experiment with different ratios of blue/yellow in greenstuff (60/40 for standard gs work, add more yellow for more organic textures), get some brownstuff for armour, For weapons and inorganic stuff use milliput (superfine is prob the best, but any milliput works). Experiment with mixing the different putties in different ratios. Some of the properties of mixtures can eliminate nearly all the weaknesses of the putties involved.

And most importantly, have fun!

Interesting Vit... I've always mixed GS 50/50... just because that's the way I thought it was supposed to be done (not that I'm very accurate measuring mind you. I'll definitely do some experimentation. Thanks for the help!

 Gitsplitta wrote:
Interesting Vit... I've always mixed GS 50/50... just because that's the way I thought it was supposed to be done (not that I'm very accurate measuring mind you. I'll definitely do some experimentation. Thanks for the help!

The basics of greenstuff is a chemical reaction based on heat of you kneading it, etc.. If you add a little bit more of one color you either increase your durability or you increase your working time. Play around sometime gits

Oops just noticed i got the gs ratios wrong :S

Standard gs should be 60y/40b, and for the most squishy organics 75y/25b is about the limit. Any more yellow and it wont cure.

More yellow increases curing time and makes the putty more flexible when set. More blue decreases curing time, but results in a more durable, yet brittle putty.



edit: Im always surprised by how many people use a 50/50 mix for whatever gs work theyre doing, lol

Cant you add vasoline to the applicator of the greenstuff? That has worked for me before.

What about grey stuff rather than green stuff? Milliput I find can be problematic, but grey really firms up well. It also takes a hard edge properly, in a way that green doesn't.


Automatically Appended Next Post:
Loving your work btw! The wet blends were a bit jelly beany I feared but turned out really well.

Well, the wet blends were on experimental legs... doesn't really matter how it turns out. What is grey stuff and the afore-mentioned brown stuff? Never heard of them...

They are both analogous to green stuff essentially, but with different properties. Brown stuff cures a lot harder than gs, and takes to finishing with tools after curing (eg. sanding cutting etc) so much better, it also holds a fine edge better. Doesnt do organics so well though.

Not had a chance to test out grey stuff but i assume its the same deal as brown and green, with different properties again.


Automatically Appended Next Post:
Some useful articles i found:

http://www.patrickkeith.com/2010/08/sculpting-tools-and-putty.html

http://blog.brushthralls.com/?page_id=1666


Hope this helps in the end Gits, and that im not just spamming your blog with gak!

No, actually it's quite useful. My modeling "skills" are bad, so any advice I can get will help.



Automatically Appended Next Post:

O.K., so I made some progress on the tranquility vanguard tonight. I'm going to do this in stages to give the GS time to harden before I do the next batch of tendrils so I don't man-handle the soft GS bits. So far so good. Question is do you want to see pics of each stage, or wait until all the GS work is done (probably several days)?

Yes, pics please! It will be interesting to see how it develops.

As you like. Tendrils, WIP 1.

Looking good so far Gits, I find the detrimental effect that close up photography has on GS work is even worse than for painting. Joins and edges that looked crisp and smooth suddenly look rough as guts and finger prints arrive out of nowhere!

Not that I can see any of that in those pics BTW I just hate taking close ups of my work

Good start gits. Are you going to do with the vines?

Hey hey !!

[edit : Hey, Gits, seen that ????

]

Uh....no. Some kind of super heavy eldar tank isn't it??

@BLACKHAND: I'm hoping the seams will disappear once I paint them black and give them a shot of dull coat. That's what happened on the test model.

 Yggdrasil wrote:
Hey hey !!

[edit : Hey, Gits, seen that ????

]

Focus on the t-shirt !

I had to follow the link to get it (i do not know my American Football teams at. all. ), but now i have its pretty funny Yggs!

Gits, i like how the tendrils are going, are you still planning on keeping part of each camo shape as flat as well as the 3D GS bits? As i think thats an excellent idea to keep things subtle (and mess with peoples heads if they aren't looking at it properly)...

Ah... the Packers shirt. Actually I'm a Bears fan, but I do appreciate the thought. (and the Packers are looking much better than the Bears right now anyway)

@Reiko: Yes.

 Gitsplitta wrote:
Ah... the Packers shirt. Actually I'm a Bears fan, but I do appreciate the thought.

Real Wisconsinners (yeah.... pun intended ) are all about the Packers, right?!?§! Riggght ??§?§??§!!!§§?