leohart wrote:Looking awesome

Thank you! Now if I could only get some time away to play a few games that would be awesome.

Flying Pooo wrote:So it is 2 Rhinos and 2 Razorbacks! This defiantly shows how unobservant I am.
Some of those SW look a little shiny, maybe you should try using a thin coat of matt varnish to take of some of that shine.
Ignore this if it was just the lighting playing tricks as they are some really nice minis!

Yes, and by leaving the top hatches removable I can alternate the other two vehicles between different weapon configurations. Its part of the reason I always say Never buy a Rhino and always buy at least a Razorback kit, they're the same model, but the Razorback, Whirlwind or other all come with shiny weapons!

I'm not sure why they're shiny. It might be the light or it might be dakka's photo uploader/editor. I'll see what I can do, but I'm loathe to take and upload another 150+ images at one time. haha

generalbenjamin89 posted about some interesting conversions in his facebook group page: Warhammer Players of San Marcos
http://www.facebook.com/groups/162954853718628/

generalbenjamin89 wrote:I NEED to convert some Imperial Guardsmen using these bitz for legs http://victorialamb.com/wugs/drookian%20gallery/highlandx15.htm, cadian torso, arms/weapons, and either the Pith Helmets or Balmoral caps listed here http://victorialamb.com/store.html That would be the absolute coolest.

I have to admit those Kilt legs look pretty sweet!


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Discussing basing of models on the Warhammer 40K Facebook group and I wrote the following up fairly quickly:
http://www.facebook.com/groups/2206945593/

Go to a pet supply store, buy a bag of colored aquarium sand (5lbs for $5 here in Texas). They come in various colors of grey, blue, aqua marine, red, etc.. Then go to a hardware store and buy a big bottle of pva/elmers glue. Get a cheap br...ush, a tupperware containter. Spread the pva glue on the base of your mini and then dip it into the tupperware container filled with the aquarium sand. wait for it to dry and then apply another layer of pva glue to the top of the sand if you want. You don't even have to paint it. You're looking at less than $20 worth of materials that will base hundreds of models.

Lovin the caveman loincloth there!

dsteingass wrote:Lovin the caveman loincloth there!

Haha.. what?!

And, I just thought of a cheap yet perfect cup holder terrain piece. Old coffee cans or those Campbells chunky soup cans. glue it to a cardboard base and leave the open end up. Those should hold a 20 oz soda bottle or a glass. The coffee can could also double as storage. Have some straws coming off the sides like pipe and it could work. I tend to use aquarium sand ($5 for 5lbs at Petco) for basing.

I need to get some of my bases done. Looks like you have a sizable force ready for game already.

leohart wrote:I need to get some of my bases done. Looks like you have a sizable force ready for game already.

I have a ton of old models from years ago that I handed off to friends for playing with and safe keeping. I'm slowly reacquiring them back into my keeping and I'm realizing how many techniques in modeling I've lost over the years. Also, my friends have painted or modeled up many of my old stuff and/or added to the armies I started. So, over time I'm going to have multiple painted armies back in my control and ready to go.

For the Space Wolves I've got (on hand) roughly:
75 Grey Hunter/Blood claw models i.e. SM/SW Marines ( I still have about 15 to be built from the SW battleforce box )
17 SW Scouts
5 Wolf Guard in Terminator Armor ( need conversion work done. )
1 Dreadnought ( Needs wolfing up )
1 Bjorn the Fell handed Dreadnought
6 Devastators/Long Fangs
5 Thunder wolf Cavalry conversions ( SW on Chaos Mounts ) - need rebuilding/converting
4 Drop Pods ( 1 needs to be rebuilt & 1 needs to be built )
1 Land raider ( minus weapons. needs conversion, going to have to buy kits )
1 Vindicator ( Front plow blade and armor face removable )
1 Land speeder ( needs rebuilding/painting )
2 Razorbacks
3 Rhinos ( 1 in transit )
10 Fenris Wolves ( Chaos hounds need converting/fixing/painting)
4 Wolf Priest / Rune Priest conversions
11 Bikes, ( some still being built )
1 Attack Bike ( still needs heavy weapon magnetized )
1 Canis Wolfborn ( needs to be assembled )
1 Ulrik the Slayer
1 Iron Priest ( on order )
1 Lukas the trickster conversion
1 Ragnar Conversion (needs a little more work )
10 jump packs ( on order for jump pack / sky claw conversion/magnetizing)

So I have a lot of work ahead of me for this Space Wolf Force, but I have a lot of the models on hand already. I'm working on those 10 Psykers and 1 Primaris Psyker right now. Not sure if I should field the SW Kill Team with bikes and Grey Hunters or an IG force with the Psykers.

5 Grey Hunters
3 Bikes
1 Attack Bike

vs.

1 Overseer + 4 Sanctioned Psykers = 60pts + 1 Sanctioned Psykers (10pts)
1 Overseer + 4 Sanctioned Psykers = 60pts
1 Primaris Psyker = 70pts
200pts


60pts left

Bike and Grey hunter is awesome. You should talk to the people on the fb list since this time it will be a league. In order to win, you will need to be able to take all comers. That usually boils down to a lot of skirmish shooting.

leohart wrote:Bike and Grey hunter is awesome. You should talk to the people on the fb list since this time it will be a league. In order to win, you will need to be able to take all comers. That usually boils down to a lot of skirmish shooting.

Yeah, I spoke to a couple of guys at the store to try to get an idea of their lists, the one I think I'd have the most problems with is a horde style force like 20-30 Guardsmen. We'll see how it goes. I'm signed up and waiting for John to finalize the brackets/lists.

I picked up an old AOBR kit cheap and am working on kit bashing the figures into Space Wolves.


Here's some work I've done on the terminators:

I'm clipping the pegs off with snips and using a pin vise and T handle hand drill bit to drill holes in the sides of these models. The glue the guy used is horrible, Its got to be something like Gorilla Glue. I'm going to drill into the torso and install magnets, then magnetize the weapon arms for versatility.


To make the AOBR Terminators look more like SW Terminators, I traded a guy at the hobby store for his SW Terminator legs and bits, then used a jewelers saw with a thin blade to cut the AOBR Termie in half at the waist, and then I trimmed up the top nob of the SW Terminator legs set. I drilled a hole with the pin vise, clipped a paperclip, applied superglue and bam! SW Termie! You should be able to see the magnets I've inserted into the torso for each model.



I've picked up two more lots on the bay of e, cheap!



So in addition to what I've posted before I now have to add this many SW models!

10 blood claws
10 grey hunters
10 grey hunters
2 wolf guard in power armor
Ragnar
Njal
Ulrik
1 land speeder
Bjorn
1 predator
2 librarians in terminator armor
OOPmedic
1 tarantula
1 rapier
5 long fangs

I need to stay off of the bay of the e.


Automatically Appended Next Post:
Been looking up Thunder wolf Cavalry mount options, lots of expensive ones and some not so expensive on ebay, but then I decided to check out toy stores online on Amazon:

I did a search for wolf in toys & games

http://www.amazon.com/Safari-2200-29-White-Wolf/dp/B0012N37FY/ref=sr_1_1?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1327325069&sr=1-1
http://www.amazon.com/Safari-Ltd-2738-29-Wolf/dp/B0009JK7CS/ref=sr_1_15?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1327325069&sr=1-15
Product Features
* Safari Ltd. Wild Safari Forest collection
* Hand-painted, phthalate free, safety tested

Product Details
* Product Dimensions: 4.5 x 2.5 x 2 inches ; 1.6 ounces

http://www.amazon.com/Papo-53012-Grey-Wolf/dp/B0036MDNA8/ref=pd_sim_t_2
Product Features
* Papo 5" Grey Wolf Animal Replica Figurine Toy
* Product Dimensions: 4.9 x 1.6 x 2.4 inches ; 2.2 ounces

http://www.amazon.com/Schleich-14626-Wolf-Howling-Figure/dp/B0035RFYT2/ref=pd_sim_t_4
Product Features
* From the Schleich Wild Life Collection.
* This wolf measures 3"L by 2.5"H
* Product Dimensions: 6 x 4.7 x 1.1 inches ; 1.3 ounces

Thoughts?

Yeah man. You need to lay off on the ebay sniping trigger. I was doing that for a while and ended up having too much stuff that painting them all become a drag.

leohart wrote:Yeah man. You need to lay off on the ebay sniping trigger. I was doing that for a while and ended up having too much stuff that painting them all become a drag.

I know. I know. There's just so much there! I'll try to hold off for awhile.

I'm still working on getting back my old models from friends and waiting on all of these other models to come in from the auctions/purchases I've made. I keep adding projects to my work load when I need to trim down and back up a bit. Finish what I have, then play play play and then look at starting another force.

I've been working on something big on the side, trying to keep it a secret for the painting competition up at GW Tomball.

That's nice. My new year resolution is to paint everything I have before the end of the year and then I can buy whatever I want.

So far it has been on track (except for that load of bikes that come in).

leohart wrote:That's nice. My new year resolution is to paint everything I have before the end of the year and then I can buy whatever I want.

So far it has been on track (except for that load of bikes that come in).

Haha. I am interested in some bikes as well as some more vehicle bits for both the SW & the Mordian IG. Trying to shop around for those things, but also build & paint what I do have.



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I'm currently sawing off the left arm of assault marines, I may also cut off a leg or two and replace them with SW arms/legs..

I received some AOBR Assault marines a few days ago and I was looking at my SW list and realized I don't have any blood claws and with these guys I have way too many Grey Hunters, so I'm converting them to Blood Claws by cutting off the left arm at the shoulder with a thin saw blade and then drilling out the hands and attaching Bolt pistols and Spears or other hand weapons by drilling and pinning/supergluing the new pieces in place. Fairly simple and easy conversion. I've then added some wolf bitz to make them more SW like.








Spears may not be ideal for storing these guys, but I only have a few options for the CCW like axes, swords, chain swords and other similar bits. I thought the spears would give them a unique look.

What do you think? C&C always welcome!

-H

the spears definatly make them unique... tho...maybe they are a tad too elven as is... maybe give them something like a bit more of a harpoon look? with those hooks...to make it nastier...? the high elves spears are very sleek for space puppies...^^

AoBR always require conversion. Glad to see you are making good use of them.

I think they would all look better with the topknots/plumes like the one in the middle of the second to last pic personally, more like Custodes.

Viktor von Domm wrote:the spears definatly make them unique... tho...maybe they are a tad too elven as is... maybe give them something like a bit more of a harpoon look? with those hooks...to make it nastier...? the high elves spears are very sleek for space puppies...^^

Viktor! Yes, I was thinking of trying to serrate some of the blades or carve a small half-circle into the side of one to give it a more menacing effect.

leohart wrote:AoBR always require conversion. Glad to see you are making good use of them.

Yes, I didn't want the basic assault model and I told John at GW Tomball Crossing that I'd try to do some conversions with those style of marines, just trying to show with a few basic adjustments these models can be utilized for a variety of builds. They're great candidates for magnetization if you can remove the arms cleanly, they're a solid plastic model. I'd even be tempted to remove the arms and head, then try to create a mold and cast them up for conversions.

dsteingass wrote:I think they would all look better with the topknots/plumes like the one in the middle of the second to last pic personally, more like Custodes.

Yes, I think so too. They'd benefit from some more wolfing up. Those helmets came with the tails on them, the topknot I'd have to remove from an unhelmeted model and then attach via a small hole drilled in the top. I think as they progress, they'll look a lot more Space Wolf like.

Here's some work I did last night. I'm trying to get approx 15 Blood claws built and have made a few unique ones out of the Assault/Tactical marines and some chaos bits as well as used some older models and tore bits apart to create some Bolt Pistol + CCW. I've also got a wolf guard model where I put the storm shield on the right arm and my Ulrik the Slayer was based dynamically, so without further ado, here they are:

Wolf guard with axe conversion made from the head of an axe that came in a bits order and the wood pole bits from a chaos banner, lots of pinning through this hand + pole + axe head


This is the Wolf Guard with the Power Sword + Storm shield. The storm shields are designed for the left arm, so this required me to carve off the left hand and drill into the shield with a pin vise and use the generic right arm thats for the bolters/weapons. I drilled and pinned the shield to the arm.


This guy has the long sword from the Chaos Marauder sprue, this will be painted up so it can double as a power sword or as a generic CCW weapon.


I have enough banners that I was thinking of coloring them to the squads color, this AOBR Assault/Tactical marine turned blood claw banner wolf has the hand and axe from a chaos marauder.


I magnetized the arm sockets after drilling them out with a drill bit and T-clamp, then supergluing in rod magnets, I then used the same drill bit to drill out the arm sockets on the actual arms and using additional magnets to make the plasma rifle & arms removable. This will allow me to add different weapon combination's to this model.

Here you can see that I can also change the posing of the model as well:


Ulrik the Slayer! The metal slot on the bottom of this model was broken under the left foot and bent. So I put a single layer of cork board on the base with superglue and then cut a second bit of cork board in half to set it to either side of the metal naming stand on the bottom of the model. I like the dymanic posing this creates. What do you think?


All the models I built last night!


And a few models in progress. I'm waiting on some magnets to come in from over seas so I can get to magnetizing as well as several other ebay lots.

C&C is always welcome!
Thanks!

Magnets from oversea? kjmagnetics not good enough for ya? Everything else looks great as always. It seems that you prefer building and assembling over painting.

May I suggest a can of strong shade? Spray, basecoat things in different colors, strong shade and done.

Very cool, I like the spears. It is a nice touch.

leohart wrote:Magnets from oversea? kjmagnetics not good enough for ya? Everything else looks great as always. It seems that you prefer building and assembling over painting.

May I suggest a can of strong shade? Spray, basecoat things in different colors, strong shade and done.

I've always enjoyed the conversion/hobby process, building is the most fun for me. When it comes to painting I tend to obsess over most of it. I am working on something special for my Space Wolves right now and have been trying to frantically convert and paint up the model so that I can have it ready for the Painting contest at GW Tomball. If I don't have it finished then I won't enter it in the Master Class painting.

Wolf Lord on Thunderwolf conversion. Model has magnetized hands, meaning the axe and storm shield are detachable. The reason why the axe isn't painted is because I lost the original painted weapon. Been working on this for awhile now.

Mr. S Baldrick wrote:Very cool, I like the spears. It is a nice touch.

Thank you sir! I figured they'd fit in nicely as CCW weapons for a Fenris / Viking / Norse culture.

Awesome looking wolf. :| Dang it I need MOAR painting. I feel like I have been lacking.

Nice thunderwolf!

You can get those topknots from the Ork Boyz sprues too. They are easy to cut off right at the skull, under the wrapping bit.


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If you need more, let me know, I have a few.

dsteingass wrote:You can get those topknots from the Ork Boyz sprues too. They are easy to cut off right at the skull, under the wrapping bit.
If you need more, let me know, I have a few.

Hmm... Good idea. I might, just need to see what some locals might be hiding in their bitz boxes. I need to get more creative with these bases and some heads under foot would do nicely.

CommissarKhaine wrote:Nice thunderwolf!

Thank you! I had some help with him though.

leohart wrote:Awesome looking wolf. :| Dang it I need MOAR painting. I feel like I have been lacking.

Thanks! Its been a work in progress for about a month or more now, I keep going back and forth to him.. Everything else has been slap paint on and go. You sir, have been painting very fast from what I've seen.

Tonight I acquired some more troops for my Space Wolves force, Logan Grimnar and a little more than 20 Terminators, Going to start with some conversion work soon. I need to craft an Arjak character.

that Wolf Lord on Thunderwolf conversion looks really awsome.... very good painting mate!

The Wolf Lord looks great what was the source of the Thunderwolf. With the Chaos Knights I'd be very careful to avoid looking to Chaosy and in general i'd be cautious about using too visually obvious Chaos Bits. The can scenery idea is a good one. This is my version
.
I'd also recommend checking out model railway baseboard construction for a gaming table as well.

Llamahead wrote:The Wolf Lord looks great what was the source of the Thunderwolf. With the Chaos Knights I'd be very careful to avoid looking to Chaosy and in general i'd be cautious about using too visually obvious Chaos Bits. The can scenery idea is a good one. This is my version

I'd also recommend checking out model railway baseboard construction for a gaming table as well.

Thank you Llamahead, Nice use of the can as terrain! Do you have any further plans for it? With the chaos knight pieces I'm going to be trimming off or covering over with green stuff the chaos symbols and putting wolf symbols on the sides. I do have some Canis Wolfborn conversions in progress, so these might just wind up being alternates depending on how much Thunder Wolf Cavalry I want to field. I've been looking into O & S gage train model terrain pieces, yet haven't worked on any yet as I want to finish my models first.

Viktor von Domm wrote:that Wolf Lord on Thunderwolf conversion looks really awsome.... very good painting mate!

Thank you Vik! I think the lighting makes him look better than he really is and I keep kicking myself because I don't think he'll be ready for the painting competition at my local GW. He's been a secret project for more than a month now, so we'll see how he goes.

I'm at an impass right now, I've bought so much and have so much to paint its a bit more than daunting.

In the meantime here's a list of my Wolf Guard Terminators:
Unbuilt/No arms: 12 - What to build them as? I have magnetized four of their arms for versatility. I might just magnetize them all.
Lightning (Wolf) Claw + No Left arm: 18+15+10+? = 43+?
Axe(Power weapon or Frost Axe)+Stormbolter: 18+15+10= 43
Wolf Claw + Wolf Claw: 5(18+15+10+5) = 48x5 = 240
Assault Cannon + Storm Shield: 2(18+15+15+30) = 78x2 = 156
Storm Bolter + Power fist: 2(18+15+10) = 43x2 = 86
Heavy Flamer + Storm shield: 1(18+15+5+15) = 53
Chain fist + Storm shield: 3(18+15+15+15) = 63 x 3 = 189
Thunder hammer + Storm shield: 3(18+15+15+15) = 63 x 3 = 189
Mace (Thunder Hammer or Frost Axe) + Powerfist/Stormbolter: 1(18+15+10) = 43
Storm bolter + Powersword + Cyclone Missile Launcher: 1 (18+15+30) = 63
Total: 1105 pts

Logan Grimnar: 275 pts
Total: 1380 pts + 12 unbuilt & 1 arm

What should the 13 others be built up as? Perhaps I'll magnetize them all. I need to convert 1 to an Arjac so that will add 15+18+170 = 203 pts?

Pretty simple: more thunder hammer and storm shield. Just more of them. Although they will be very pricy to get the thunder hammer and stormshield arms alone. I guess you can always get a box of Assault Terminators. Then use the extra 5 pairs of Lightning Claws for the extra termies you have.

leohart wrote:Pretty simple: more thunder hammer and storm shield. Just more of them. Although they will be very pricy to get the thunder hammer and stormshield arms alone. I guess you can always get a box of Assault Terminators. Then use the extra 5 pairs of Lightning Claws for the extra termies you have.

I think I have the bits for that, of course I need to go through what I have extra of. I am planning to magnetize the remaining 12 - 13 Termies. I was able to get some Blood Claws and some Sky claws built. Working with magnets and plastic jump pack kits from GW ($8.00 + magnets vs buying an assault squad).

I'll take some pics and post them up later.

I thought the jump pack kit is metal.

I just love all the clever conversions you do.

leohart wrote:I thought the jump pack kit is metal.

There used to be a metal jump pack kit, but this one I ordered is plastic, comes on a sprue of 5 in two pieces, pretty simple to glue together. I drilled into the back of the assault/tactical marines and glued a magnet to the model and then glued a small washer to the jump pack. Nothing fancy, but it adds versatility to the blood claw models to be made into Sky Claws.

http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/catalog/productDetail.jsp?prodId=prod1860238
Space Marine Jump Packs
This set contains five plastic Space Marine Jump packs.
* Part Code: MPN 99080101002

Shredsmore wrote:I just love all the clever conversions you do.

Thanks man, I really appreciate you stopping by and checking out my work. I see you're new to the site, hope to see you around more often and some of your work.

Bitz link on GW http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/catalog/armySubUnitCats.jsp?catId=cat300033a

More work is progressing on the Wolves, I'll hopefully get in my Kill Team League game tomorrow, tried to get it in today, but the guy wasn't ready/didn't have his models. We'll see how things go.

Thanks again everyone for reading and commenting!



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Good morning all, tonights work consisted of painting up a land speeder and some SW'ing up an AOBR Dreadnought with a few icons.

The land speeder was a bayOe win/purchase and the kit was poorly put together. I'm going to need to GS the gaps and then repaint the model, but I needed it for a game today so I painted it.




Here's the AOBR Dreadnought, I've clipped up a wolf skull, a plate with a wolf from the drop pod sprue and some pieces from a banner on a chaos marauder banner, what do you think? Do I need more?


I've got my first game today vs a Tau player in our local GW Kill Team league, So we'll see how I do with these wolves.

As always C&C is welcomed!

I wanted to finish up my Wolf Lord / Canis Wolfborn Thunder Wolf Cavalry model for the painting competition at my local GW store and well, I don't think I made the deadline, but I'm going to stop by today and drop it off.

For the axe I took a quick google search for "how to paint a frost axe" and it lead me to this link: https://ironhalo.net/frostaxe.htm
Which is a pretty good tutorial and fairly easy to do. I however, didn't really follow it, lol. I primed the axe white, then layered enchanted blue and once satisfied with that, I used P3 Frostbite for the lightning effects, I got a little over zealous on a couple of the cross hatches, but I think they came out well. After that, I hit it with two thin washes of Asurmen Blue.

Please, tell me what you think:

The before:


During:


During again:


And... again!




Finalized!



Almost all of the colors I used on this model:


Current Space Wolf Force at a little more than 6,000 pts and growing... some models not pictured simply because there wasn't anymore room on the table.. lol.


My Kill Team game today was played at best 2 out of 3, I won the first game vs Tau, but lost the next two due to bad dice rolls and failed leadership tests. I also participated in the stores game day event where we're building/painting an Ice world terrain board and I've begun constructing a large cathedral terrain piece for the store using bits and kits from the stores allotted sprues.

I'll try to take pics of that later today if I wake up in time to deliver this model and to participate in more board building.

That wolf lord looks great. Good luck in the competition.

^ that wolf looks awsome! nice job on that one

Although you were late to the submission, you can always try to submit in the next competition. I think it is a top notch model.

leohart wrote:That wolf lord looks great. Good luck in the competition.

Thanks Dude! I was too late to enter it into this one, but I can enter him and another $$ model in the competition for the Battalion Call to Arms 1 month Battleforce Equivalent painting competition which is next month.

Rogue Wolves wrote:^ that wolf looks awsome! nice job on that one

Thank you Rogue, I put a lot of work into him and obsessed about every little detail, read a ton of painting guides online, borrowed a few painting pens for some of the writings from an art teacher friend, just a ton of work. And, now I get to obsess all over again on another model!

leohart wrote:Although you were late to the submission, you can always try to submit in the next competition. I think it is a top notch model.

Exactly!

Our store ( http://www.facebook.com/GWTomballCrossing ) participated in the Call To Arms event and there were a lot of great submissions, both for the painting contest and for the battleboard & terrain building. As happens with most events some people simply gravitated to playing while the ice world was being painted/built. I, however, decided to assist by building terrain/buildings.

I was given three kits and was authorized for 1 more, but I decided to hold off on the last one so that we could see what was built out of these:

1 bottle of plastic glue
1 set of snips
1 Xacto knife blade
2 Shrine of the Aquila
http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/catalog/productDetail.jsp?prodId=prod40001a
1 Warhammer 40k Imperial Sector - City Buildings box
http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/catalog/productDetail.jsp?catId=cat1490540&prodId=prod1095509

After some discussion, I decided to build a large building that could be divided up into four separate terrain pieces and fit in a variety of modular ways. I wanted it to be multi - level for a city fight / Necromunda style of play with a lot of broken separated walkways which would cause players to make difficult terrain tests when jumping between them.

There were plenty of bits and building pieces left over and so I build a couple of towered cat walks and some other multi level buildings as well as a blasted out bunker.

Here are the pics:














I left a couple more images in the gallery. There are more pieces of terrain that can be put together for buildings, but not much more... lol. I used a whole bottle of plastic glue. The buildings will be based on a single large sheet and then that sheet will be cut and shaped so they can be separated and reformed in a variety of manners. The plan is to spray the buildings with rough coat and then hit them with highlights to get them done faster and readied up for play.

I think it will be a fun board or a least a fun set of terrain pieces even if its only used to create lanes of fire in a city situation.

Also you can see the progress of the ice world battle board. Haha.

What do y'all think? C&C is always welcome!
http://www.dakkadakka.com/gallery/images-50179-23394_Terrain.html

Now, what to work on next?


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I decided to take a look at the Bjorn The Fell Handed model I recently received from an ebay auction and work on a paint scheme for him that might work with my ( currently ) multi-colored space wolf force.

Here was his condition when I first received him, everything was fairly abused and poorly glued together, he is missing some decorative bits and there isn't a base for him, So I'll need to create all of that as well as make his weapon arm swappable based on a variety of conditions. I'll need to find a plasma gun arm or create one from one of my Sentinel kits.

I'd value your input on which color scheme you like best.





Here is the first repaint scheme, this is Skull White mixed with Fenris Grey in equal parts and then thinned down with water.



The second repaint scheme uses Chaos Black mixed with Fenris Grey over the other paint job and with the border around the central casement repainted with Shining Gold.



I value your opinions, knowledge and level of skill when it comes to painting and hobby techniques. I've got plans to dress Bjorn up further with some wolf tails, more fur and a banner from the Chaos Marauder sprue.

Let me know! Thanks.

That is a lot of dreadnought. Don't get started on these. You should start on your battle force.

leohart wrote:That is a lot of dreadnought. Don't get started on these. You should start on your battle force.

Thats only three dreadnoughts, is that considered a lot?

haha, to a non spacemarine player maybie. but hey i only play guardsmen.. and i have a dread so i shouldnt be talking

I guess not. Especially since one is an hq choice. I just think that you should focus on the battle force box. It is only 1 month to paint everything.

Rogue Wolves wrote:haha, to a non spacemarine player maybie. but hey i only play guardsmen.. and i have a dread so i shouldnt be talking

Hmm.. so how many should I get and build? 5? 10? 100!!! 2000pt Dreadnought force with Bjorn leading the way?

leohart wrote:I guess not. Especially since one is an hq choice. I just think that you should focus on the battle force box. It is only 1 month to paint everything.

Ah, well you see Leohart, it is also Battleforce $$ equivalent, so the battleforce is $99-105.00 in price and the wolf lord conversion I did counts for about 50% of that cost, a named venerable dreadnought model would bring me closer, sooner I'm thinking.

So, none of you have answered my question though, which paint scheme? lol.

Update'O'rama!

Okay, I've got a few things to post up about:

Tabletop gaming in 5 minutes or less on a regulation sized table. The game table can be stored conveniently under the couch. The slats and supports are stacked on top of the table. A friends girl friend made the table out of 1/4'' birch and some brads and staples. It folds in half to store under a couch or in a corner behind a door. It has two leaves on the underside that keep the hinges from flexing, one at either end and it will soon be fitted with carry all straps so it can easily move it from room to room.

It's basically two 4' x 2' slabs of birch at 1/4'' thickness with a long set of hinges joining them in the middle and with a 1/4'' wall that runs along the exterior. The legs underneath can be unscrewed for storage so that it's just a 4' x 2' folded table.

The legs can be unscrewed and the leaves are the PVC pipe, which basically allows the entire table plus legs to be stored in a space of about 2 inches tall by four long and two feet in. 2'x 4' x 2''.







Additionally, I received some Storm Trooper models and an Ancient Cadian model, as I have all those Cadian bits, I might have a future project on my hands with a Cadian force to complement my Mordian Iron Guard. As if at this time I needed more Guard troops.. they may become my penal legion.. heh.. Mordian Penal legion members are forced to dress like Cadians, no dress uniforms for them.



Thirdly, Speaking of the Mordian Iron Guard I've received more troops for the force! Grenadier x1, 2x Missile teams, 1x Lascannon, 2x Heavy Bolter, 1x Autocannon and assorted troops.



Lastly, Some Dark Eldar showed up. O.o I thought they were supposed to be Space Marines I could add to my growing Space Wolf force, but they showed up as Dark Eldar. I've got 5 sprues of these guys/gals of the craft world and I'm not sure what to do with them. Should I kit bash them with my High Elf Silver Helm regiment left overs? I've got 16 of those with mounts and lances/swords to build, could just say the horses are the jet bikes... hmm.. another future project.. Must finish the Space Wolves or the Mordian Iron Guard.



I'm still tossing around ideas for what to complete for the painting competition/ battle force equivalent size 1 month challenge. Lots to do and little time to do it in. C&C is always welcome!

I say you get rid of those DE and get more SM.

leohart wrote:I say you get rid of those DE and get more SM.

I think I'm looking at a little over 6000 points of Space Wolves now and not all of my ebay lots have arrived, I'm not sure how much IG I have, but I'm thinking its over 2000 easy.

Do I want to deal with more SM or specifically SW models? Or should I go for more IG related vehicles?

DE might be fun in the future, but I also have a ton of Catachan and Cadian bits/models I could build supplemental armies with. I've also got some Fantasy Dwarf, High Elf and Chaos bits/troops.

I haven't even taken a look at all my Warmachine / Hordes models I need to build /paint.

I'm going to be busy for awhile... lol.

Or you can get rid of the DE and buy some Army Painter stuff to help you speed things up.

nice table...nice and efficient! always good to have cool friends in RL...!

well...i am known for some weird ideas and for me... i would keep those DE and let them sit in your conversion parts box... one day you just need these bitz... i have on one occasion hunted for some DE bitz as a possible means to make a weapon swap for my steampunky IGs... one might never know when the need arrives... and those stormtroopers being penials...lol... yep i think it must be awful for a true mordian to not be able to wear parade uniform

leohart wrote:Or you can get rid of the DE and buy some Army Painter stuff to help you speed things up.

Heh, I need to find a good store with a good selection of Army Painter Primer. I'm undecided between a gray primer coat and a grey-blue... if they even make it. If I go with a gray primer for the Space Wolves and a blue primer for the Mordian Iron Guard, I think that would speed things up, but I've already got a lot of it primer'd white, so that would slow things down a bit.

Viktor von Domm wrote:nice table...nice and efficient! always good to have cool friends in RL...!

well...i am known for some weird ideas and for me... i would keep those DE and let them sit in your conversion parts box... one day you just need these bitz... i have on one occasion hunted for some DE bitz as a possible means to make a weapon swap for my steampunky IGs... one might never know when the need arrives... and those stormtroopers being penials...lol... yep i think it must be awful for a true mordian to not be able to wear parade uniform

I think I will hang onto the bits for a little while, never know whats going to happen or whats going to need kit-bashed up.

I'm a little undecided as to what to work on next.. should I paint more Space Wolves or get on the Mordian Iron Guard, if I'm going to participate in the battle force painting competition then I need to pain Space Wolves..

hmm..

More SW since it will get you on the table faster.

I believe I saw some good selection of Army Painter Colour Primer at Asgard. For you, I would say just look up the equivalent Army Painter color for your base color and then make an order through your FLGS.

I got some stuff primed white but then I reprimed with the Colour Primer, still much faster than brushing in (mostly due to the Bleached Bone colour tone that I need things to be).

looks like you've gotten a nice IG haul there!

leohart wrote:More SW since it will get you on the table faster.

I believe I saw some good selection of Army Painter Colour Primer at Asgard. For you, I would say just look up the equivalent Army Painter color for your base color and then make an order through your FLGS.

I got some stuff primed white but then I reprimed with the Colour Primer, still much faster than brushing in (mostly due to the Bleached Bone colour tone that I need things to be).

I actually have a lot of SW painted in a grey paint scheme, just not the Fenris Grey, but a Codex Grey, so some are a dark blue grey and some are a light grey, I'm thinking of taking the dark grey models back to the light grey or simply start to count them as my 13th company models.
http://www.dakkadakka.com/gallery/images-50179-22471_Space%20Wolves.html

I looked up the army painter site to get product info to submit a request at my FLGS
http://www.thearmypainter.com/

Colour Primer link: http://usshop.thearmypainter.com/products.php?ProductGroupId=2

They have some nice paint tutorials: http://www.thearmypainter.com/gallery_presentation.php?GalleryId=99&Gallery=Space%20Wolf%20Grey%20Hunter&page=1

Thats not a bad scheme

Rogue Wolves wrote:looks like you've gotten a nice IG haul there!

Yeah, I need to get off of ebay and concentrate on what I have rather than what I can get. I need to finish these models, then play play play..

Yep. Army painter is the time saver you need. It's still cheaper than gw primer.

leohart wrote:Yep. Army painter is the time saver you need. It's still cheaper than gw primer.

Oh yeah, pretty much all the other companies primers are cheaper than GW. I like P3's primer, but have used Army Painter before. Its all good stuff.

Worked on this Rhino and another, I'm going to need to strip the paint from them, first I removed the decals and kept scraping away at the old paint job.


Did some work on my Vindicator, painted up some red and hit the front casement with magnets so I could remove the front and store it easier.


I've decided that since I'm concentrating on the Space Wolves that I'll use my battlefoam 1520 XL for them, You might be thinking that it might be too big for a SW force, but think again! I'm a nutter for models and so I have a ton of SW from a variety of generations.

Rhinos, Razorbacks and a Vindicator:


Drop pods, 3 mostly built, 1 unbuilt.


2 Land raiders, 2 Thunderwolves and 3 Dreadnoughts (2 of which unbuilt):










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dsteingass wrote:Everything you could ever want for Necromunda, including the cardstock PDF is here
http://www.wargamerau.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=79749

Micro Mark
http://www.micromark.com/chop-it,9547.html

Those are some great links D! Have you looked at the Necromunda stuff on GW's website?
http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/content/article.jsp?catId=cat200210&categoryId=1100011§ion&aId=5300010


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Uploading 200+ more pics to the Space Wolves gallery takes forever when its 10 at a time. Recovered some of my old models from a friend, they're still searching for more. I think I'm going to stop with 100 left to upload.

http://www.dakkadakka.com/gallery/images-50179-22471_Space%20Wolves.html

Sigh. Oh I wish I have a bf 1520. Lots of models you got there. Bring it next time we meet so we can have a 2000 points game.

leohart wrote:Sigh. Oh I wish I have a bf 1520. Lots of models you got there. Bring it next time we meet so we can have a 2000 points game.

The 1520 XL is a beast the size of a small refrigerator and I'm realizing that while I have a lot of SW models, I'm going to need another large case for my Mordian Iron Guard IG force simply due to the large amount of models and vehicles involved.

Also, with our wet weather season upon us I'm going to need to waterproof my game bags with some sealant. I used to use a product called Camp Dry, but will need to check out what's available now.

I'm still learning the game Leohart and have noticed that I slip into Privateer Press' Warmachine / Hordes rules ( I love that game ) still. It happened during my Kill team match vs Tau and really tripped me up.

Biggest difference is the turn order, in 40K its 1) move all models, then 2) Shoot all models, 3) resolve assault / melee.

In warmachine each model / units activation is resolved independently on your turn.

Model/unit #1 = 1) move model 2) Shoot/melee
Model/unit #2 = 1) move model 2) Shoot/melee
Etc. Til you have resolved all your models/units interactions.

I think Warmachine is a cleaner and smoother system than 40K, but I am trying to like them both.

In my kill team game I moved my bikes and then went into shooting / melee all the while forgetting that I didn't move my grey hunters..

I'm still learning!

It's alright. You will pick it up fast.

For Feb, Army Transport is running a special one-time 30% off everything Army Transport. I think I will get an Army Transport Motor Pool since it carries 8-in of BF-size foam. An empty version after 30% off comes to about $23. It is a well-built case as well.

leohart wrote:It's alright. You will pick it up fast.

For Feb, Army Transport is running a special one-time 30% off everything Army Transport. I think I will get an Army Transport Motor Pool since it carries 8-in of BF-size foam. An empty version after 30% off comes to about $23. It is a well-built case as well.

I actually own an Army Transport for my Warmachine miniatures, I like it a lot. Specifically: http://www.saboldesigns.net/armytransport.html

Army Transport by Sabol designs 30% off sale, February only! http://bit.ly/xU4Mw4 via ZeroskillZ.com

uploading more pics now!


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Here are some highlights from the new pics uploaded to my Space Wolves album:
http://www.dakkadakka.com/gallery/images-50179-22471_Space%20Wolves.html

Iron Priest


Bjorn the younger


Bjorn the Fell handed! I now have 2 of these guys.. hmm..


Njal Stormcaller, in metal and power armor, the new one is in fine cast and terminator armor... options!


Ragnar


Ulrik the Slayer ( I now have 2 of these models so 1 will be converted!)


Old school land speeder


Old metal Predator tank


And I've got some converty bitz in for conversions!

I have missed many so many awesome things in this thread! I'm loving all that you've done lately especially that Wolf Lord on the Thunder Wolf.

I like all those OOP minis, they scream character!

And personally I love Scibor stuff. I can't wait to see what you do with it.

Flying Pooo wrote:I have missed many so many awesome things in this thread! I'm loving all that you've done lately especially that Wolf Lord on the Thunder Wolf.

I like all those OOP minis, they scream character!

And personally I love Scibor stuff. I can't wait to see what you do with it.

Thank you for staying tuned! I apprecite it! Thank you for the compliment on the Wolf Lord, he took a lot of work to complete and now I'm at an impass in my thoughts for what to work on next.

Do I shoot for the painting competition for next month?
Do I keep painting SW?
Do I paint some Mordian Iron Guard?

I like the OOP SW mini's, I think they'll go well when I mix them in with my current SW models, give my squads some character.

I'd waited for the SCIBOR stuff for so long and when it arrived I had already completed some projects. I'd ordered the max mini mk2 mixed hammers, but they sent me the wrong ones and I'm waiting to hear back from them regarding the mistake. I wanted some different hammer wielding SW models.

In the mean time I've begun some assembly line painting of Mordian Iron Guard:

Shoot for the painting competition for next month? YES
Keep painting SW? YES
Paint some Mordian Iron Guard? YES

Although this might push you for time I thing doing all of this would be great!

It's a pity about those max mini hammers. That's not very professional of them, I hope you get the hammerers you wanted as some Space Wolves with hammers would be quite awesome.

And those Mordians are looking sweet!

Flying Pooo wrote:Shoot for the painting competition for next month? YES
Keep painting SW? YES
Paint some Mordian Iron Guard? YES

Although this might push you for time I thing doing all of this would be great!

It's a pity about those max mini hammers. That's not very professional of them, I hope you get the hammerers you wanted as some Space Wolves with hammers would be quite awesome.

And those Mordians are looking sweet!

Good luck with your tourny. Too bad maxmini sent the wrong part. Their site is down right now so I can't check out the links you posted. I will check back later.

On another note, I had some time in Starbucks today and wanted to look up whether it makes a difference for me switching from SM Codex to SW codex.

The Razorspam build is wayyy cheaper in Space Wolves comparing to Space Marines. In term of cost, it is the same as Blood Angel.

For a 5-man + Razorback LasPlas:
BA: Vehicle is fast.
SW: Have Counter Attack, Acute Senses AND boltgun for free.
SM: Don't have FNP. Don't have Counter attack. Don't have Acute Senses. Don't have dual weapons AND it is 10 pts more.

I call shennanigans.

So, for your Space Wolves build, I suggest you go for 4-6 Razorback LasPlas with 5 guys inside. Each of these 5-man group has 1 melta gun.

leohart wrote:Good luck with your tourny. Too bad maxmini sent the wrong part. Their site is down right now so I can't check out the links you posted. I will check back later.

On another note, I had some time in Starbucks today and wanted to look up whether it makes a difference for me switching from SM Codex to SW codex.

The Razorspam build is wayyy cheaper in Space Wolves comparing to Space Marines. In term of cost, it is the same as Blood Angel.

For a 5-man + Razorback LasPlas:
BA: Vehicle is fast.
SW: Have Counter Attack, Acute Senses AND boltgun for free.
SM: Don't have FNP. Don't have Counter attack. Don't have Acute Senses. Don't have dual weapons AND it is 10 pts more.

I call shennanigans.

So, for your Space Wolves build, I suggest you go for 4-6 Razorback LasPlas with 5 guys inside. Each of these 5-man group has 1 melta gun.

Shenanigans is what I love best about my Wolves. They are fun to play and their fluff is awesome. Most of the named SM Chapters have more options than standard basic SM, Its part of their fluff and style.

More work done on the Mordian Iron Guard IG. I've been assembly line painting these guys, going through several layers of thinned down Mordian Blue, then I hit the model with some layers of Skull White on the portions of the model that the Mordian Blue layers have hit while I was painting late into the night. I then went over them with Elf Flesh so that I could work my way up to layers of Golden Yellow for the stripes and trim on the models.

What I'm showing here is that I use egg cartons to store models while I'm painting them, they sit loose inside and don't bang against each other, it also allows for me to easily move the models without getting my fingers all over them. They're cheap and come with eggs which you can eat and as one savvy dakka user has shown me, the egg shells can be cleaned and used for basing.








Lots of work to do and more paint layers to get through. As always C&C is welcomed!

Looking awesome. I should save some of my egg case for this purpose. I am currently putting them on an artist palette (the one with the round cups for putting paints).

Great tip about the egg cartons. To be honest the can is fine as is it's club scenery which is primarily to be used knocked about and gamed on I could take more time on it but as it's going to be brutally crammed into a box it's probably not worthwhile it's a better time investment to make more! That Thunderwolf Lord looks excellent and the frost axe looks great (it also looks cartoony in style which makes it nice obvious and blatantly not a power weapon).

leohart wrote:Looking awesome. I should save some of my egg case for this purpose. I am currently putting them on an artist palette (the one with the round cups for putting paints).

I know exactly what you mean!

Llamahead wrote:Great tip about the egg cartons. To be honest the can is fine as is it's club scenery which is primarily to be used knocked about and gamed on I could take more time on it but as it's going to be brutally crammed into a box it's probably not worthwhile it's a better time investment to make more! That Thunderwolf Lord looks excellent and the frost axe looks great (it also looks cartoony in style which makes it nice obvious and blatantly not a power weapon).

Thank you, they do rattle around in the egg carton, if I had more foam/padding to stuff inside I'd use these for troop transports. The egg cartons will hold Terminator sized models, they do it better if they're not in crazy action poses, but still they fit.

Yeah, if its community terrain thats going to be handled, then its fine and I highly approve. You could do something similar with the bottom of an egg carton, just turn it over, cut in half down the long ways attach to a base and you've got a piece of wall terrain.

My Thunderwolf looks Cartoony? O.o Do you mean the axe alone or the model as a whole? If its just the axe then are you referencing the blade? I wanted it to be used as either a frost axe or power weapon..

I could dull the colors down on it... hmm..

Thanks for the C&C! Keep it coming!

That egg carton idea is genius. I use fishing tackle box to store in progress minis, but I find that is scratches and chips the paint when it bumps against the sides. This will save me, I'll be using that Idea.

It also comes with a whole lot of basically free basing materiel.

Flying Pooo wrote:That egg carton idea is genius. I use fishing tackle box to store in progress minis, but I find that is scratches and chips the paint when it bumps against the sides. This will save me, I'll be using that Idea.

It also comes with a whole lot of basically free basing materiel.

Thank you! I had forgotten that basing tutorial regarding the egg shells was yours!

http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/412037.page#3891225


I also like the egg cartons because they're stackable and you can store them easily on a shelf or in a cardboard box! Now, the models will rattle around inside, but since its made of essentially paper/light cardboard then it doesn't chip or scratch.



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My light box set up is pretty basic: I use a couple blank sheets of printer paper taped to the sides of cardboard boxes and a desk lamp pointing straight down on top of them.

My camera is my cel phone's digital camera without a flash, I get in real close and have noticed that the camera picks up light differently if I angle the phone differently.

I take a ridiculous amount of images of the same models and then I delete the blurry ones and upload the better ones.

It might just be the concept itself. But I wouldn't tone it down. My comment wasn't meant to be an insult. I think it is cartoony in that it''s blatant and obvious in what it's mean't to be and created with a strong contrast. This is a good thing in a gaming army. To be honest with my Zulu's I look back and would have preferred to put in a lot more contrast even if it is cartoony. In otherwords if you think it looks good it is and don't let somebody else's opinion tell you otherwise!

Llamahead wrote:It might just be the concept itself. But I wouldn't tone it down. My comment wasn't meant to be an insult. I think it is cartoony in that it''s blatant and obvious in what it's mean't to be and created with a strong contrast. This is a good thing in a gaming army. To be honest with my Zulu's I look back and would have preferred to put in a lot more contrast even if it is cartoony. In otherwords if you think it looks good it is and don't let somebody else's opinion tell you otherwise!

Duuuuuuuuuuuuuude! Llamahead, I never took your comment as an insult I just feed off of information and thank you for that and taking the time to explain what your thought processes and meanings were/are.

Cheers mate glad you took it at the right intent in the first place.

Hmelrose wrote:

dsteingass wrote:Wow Mhelrose! You are getting a helluva lot done over here! I lve the bike conversion! BTW, don't get frustrated with the copper tube, it will be your friend in time. I use a cheap, Taiwan-made pipe cutter like this:

It works great, and only cost me $4 at Menards. Probably the same at any Lowes or Home Dpot-type place.

Thanks! Yeah, I've got a lot of time on my hands + I don't sleep = plenty of time for hobbies!

The brass pipe is a little frustrating, but its not something I can't work with. It might not be the right thing for this conversion. Which item in that pic is the pipe cutter? Is it the red thing?

The options at lowes are primarily for PVC & Plastic pipe, though the last one looks to be for multiple pipe.
http://www.lowes.com/SearchCatalogDisplay?Ntt=pipe+cutter&storeId=10151&N=0&langId=-1&catalogId=10051&rpp=24

More work done on the Psykers:











Cameras are brutal, they truly show the flaws and mistakes in my painting!

Oh yeah, I need to put this here so I don't lose it: Flexible, roll-up-able, paint-able gaming mats!

http://www.zuzzy.com/dr-tf-001_terra_flex_gaming_mat.html

Where do you get the theme that 'Mordian Psykers' wear yellow shirts with purple sash and blue gloves? do you use any 'army painting' program computer? or did you experiment with DoW series? (i haven't play this game since i've finished DoW2: EXPANSION SET (one with IG player and each race has its own campaigns., which i've forgot its name mew!)

Lone Cat wrote: sash and blue gloves? do you use any 'army painting' program computer? or did you experiment with DoW series? (i haven't play this game since i've finished DoW2: EXPANSION SET (one with IG player and each race has its own campaigns., which i've forgot its name mew!)

I'm on my cel phone so I accidentaly deleted a big part of the quote. Basically, I wanted my Psykers to both fit in and stand out with my Mordian Iron Guard paint scheme, so I simply reversed the primary and secondary colors I was using, then tweaked them a little.

No programs or games were used other than my own imagination, though Mordian fluff describes their world as dark and that they favor bright/flashy colors.

The Psykers aren't done sadly, I've been jumping from project to project and leaving things mostly done. I will get back to them soon though.

Thanks! Hope that answers your question! Feel free to ask any others! C&C always welcome!

Llamahead wrote:Cheers mate glad you took it at the right intent in the first place.

Of course!

I highly doubt anyone on here would take the time to offend someone, haha

But then again there are some people who might...

Heh, so to continue this really a non-update, I've been busy with family health issues so not a lot of hobby stuff is going on, lack of sleep is also prevalent yet nothing new.

I have played a few more games of Warmachine when the timing can be made right with some fellow gamers and I'm still doing well with that. Altogether, Warmachine / Hordes feels like the game runs smoother for me. Yet I am a gamer so I will keep plugging away at relearning 40k.

paper terrain sites (the first one is INSANE!)

http://www.mythoz.org/Joomla/index.php/En - My favorite paper terrain site. Very attractive paper models.

http://www.wizards.com/default.asp?x=dnd/fpm/archive - Beautiful buildings.

http://imperiuswargaming.wordpress.com/painting-and-board-log/making-paper-terrain/ - kind of Warhammer 40k-ish but some of it might help.

http://www.miniaturewargaming.com/index.php/mwg/category/Paper%20Figs%20Terrain/ - lots of downloads here, updated periodically.

http://paperwargames.blogspot.com/search/label/Escenograf%C3%ADa%20 - Spanish site. I use Google Chrome browser and translate it. Very good model buildings here.

http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~colinw01/ - More terrain and buildings.

http://www.ss42.com/pt-buildings.html - Tons of stuff here.

http://fitz.jsr.com/roleplay/props/buildings.html - A few more buildings.

^ thanks for that

Rogue Wolves wrote:^ thanks for that

You're welcome!

Thinking..

1500pts Space Wolves Army
Rune Priest [Living Lightning, Jaws, Chooser of the Slain] 110
Rune Priest [Jaws, Murderous Hurricane, melta bombs] 105
Rune Priest [Living Lightning, Murderous Hurricane] 100

5 Wolf Guard [3 with power fist and combi-meltas, 1 with combi-melta, 1 with chainfist, terminator armour and cyclone missile launcher] 230

6 Hunters [meltagun, wolf standard, mark of the wulfen, rhino] 155
6 Hunters [meltagun, wolf standard, mark of the wulfen, rhino] 155
6 Hunters [meltagun, wolf standard, mark of the wulfen, rhino] 155
5 Hunters [meltagun, razorback] 120

2 Speeders [multi meltas and heavy flamers] 140

5 Long Fangs [4 missile launchers] 115
5 Long Fangs [4 missile launchers] 115

Total - 1500 points

Hmelrose wrote:paper terrain sites (the first one is INSANE!)

http://www.mythoz.org/Joomla/index.php/En - My favorite paper terrain site. Very attractive paper models.

http://www.wizards.com/default.asp?x=dnd/fpm/archive - Beautiful buildings.

http://imperiuswargaming.wordpress.com/painting-and-board-log/making-paper-terrain/ - kind of Warhammer 40k-ish but some of it might help.

http://www.miniaturewargaming.com/index.php/mwg/category/Paper%20Figs%20Terrain/ - lots of downloads here, updated periodically.

http://paperwargames.blogspot.com/search/label/Escenograf%C3%ADa%20 - Spanish site. I use Google Chrome browser and translate it. Very good model buildings here.

http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~colinw01/ - More terrain and buildings.

http://www.ss42.com/pt-buildings.html - Tons of stuff here.

http://fitz.jsr.com/roleplay/props/buildings.html - A few more buildings.

I might consider download it. soak it with cyano-acrylate did strenghten this thing significantly
well for now i'm moving onto field fortifications acting as shelter/cover, while sandbag/hesco bunker (which thai grognard gives it a 3+) is too-delicate, too complex and time consuming, and a thai grognard had evaluated foxhole terrain piece as having 6+ or 5+ cover save. i'd need something that has a 4+ cover save. but can be built by a normal line infantry unit with folding shovel (without calling in the elements of engineer corps). can you help me think of the appropriate 'dug out' terrain pieces that have such quality? so I can begin this project (and finish it before April 2012)

meow.

That many rune priest? I have never seen that before but it will annoy the hell out of quite a few people .

Lone Cat wrote:
I might consider download it. soak it with cyano-acrylate did strenghten this thing significantly
well for now i'm moving onto field fortifications acting as shelter/cover, while sandbag/hesco bunker (which thai grognard gives it a 3+) is too-delicate, too complex and time consuming, and a thai grognard had evaluated foxhole terrain piece as having 6+ or 5+ cover save. i'd need something that has a 4+ cover save. but can be built by a normal line infantry unit with folding shovel (without calling in the elements of engineer corps). can you help me think of the appropriate 'dug out' terrain pieces that have such quality? so I can begin this project (and finish it before April 2012)

meow.

I think you're looking for a trench?

leohart wrote:That many rune priest? I have never seen that before but it will annoy the hell out of quite a few people .

Its something I'm thinking about, I need to get the mechanics of the game down again.

thanks for those link hmelrose! great finds!

Viktor von Domm wrote:thanks for those link hmelrose! great finds!

Always glad to share hobby finds!

This is for y'all who were wondering about my Canus Wolfborn conversion model assembled/painted piece. It was purchased as a bare metal model, assembled, converted and then painted over the course of a month's worth of painting for several hours a night. I'm working on a second model and then possibly a third.



This is pretty much what I stare at every night:


This is the fruits of my Space Wolf labors/builds:

60 Grey Hunters
30 Blood Claws
1 Lukas the Trickster conversion
6 Rune Priests
2 Iron Priests
2 Wolf Priest Ulrik the Slayer models
1 Ragnar Blackmane

and many, many more.. so many Space Wolves its silly, they overflow my BattleFoam 1520XL + Pack 216 bags..

i wonder why nearly all modlers have this thing for more and more and more and more... really it is plastic crack...isn´t it?^^

seeing that desk... i imagine myself sitting in a building frenzy...building for what it is worth mini after mini...forgetting about food...drink...social life and jobs...ah good times^^

So many. Must. Stop. Drooling.

Hmelrose wrote:

Lone Cat wrote:
I might consider download it. soak it with cyano-acrylate did strenghten this thing significantly
well for now i'm moving onto field fortifications acting as shelter/cover, while sandbag/hesco bunker (which thai grognard gives it a 3+) is too-delicate, too complex and time consuming, and a thai grognard had evaluated foxhole terrain piece as having 6+ or 5+ cover save. i'd need something that has a 4+ cover save. but can be built by a normal line infantry unit with folding shovel (without calling in the elements of engineer corps). can you help me think of the appropriate 'dug out' terrain pieces that have such quality? so I can begin this project (and finish it before April 2012)

meow.

I think you're looking for a trench?

yes. and the trench terrain piece has to have a lengh, height, and thickness that is generally agreed as having a 4+ cover save. given that my IG (well the fact!) army uses no conscripts nor fire teams (special weapons squad). only use rifle squad (10 men strengh) as a part of infantry platoon.

Btw, you should have a building/painting break and start playing some games. It should give you a clearer idea on what you need for fun games.

Viktor von Domm wrote:i wonder why nearly all modlers have this thing for more and more and more and more... really it is plastic crack...isn´t it?^^

seeing that desk... i imagine myself sitting in a building frenzy...building for what it is worth mini after mini...forgetting about food...drink...social life and jobs...ah good times^^

Yes, its plastic crack. I just can't stop building these models.. I don't sleep and so I've got a ton of free time on my hands to build. I'm working out new and faster painting techniques and have been reading up more on the Army Painters website.

Here is some quick painting advice from yours truly, The Army Painter has some great quick how to paint schemes for armies, this one is simple, you can use their primer, prime all the models or just the main parts you want, then prime the other parts another color and then paint your accents to match. Then glue the pieces together.. Then hit them with Badab Black or one of the Army painter washes/dips for shading.

You could get hundreds of models done easily in less than a week. (Provided they're assembled).

Then go buy a bag of colored sand from a pet store (these are for fish/reptile tanks) and use some pva or super glue on the base and dip the models into them.

http://www.thearmypainter.com/gallery.php?fFilter=true&Disclaimer=All&GalleryType=&ColourPrimer=&QuickShade=&dId=0>Id=2&cpoId=&qsoId=

leohart wrote:So many. Must. Stop. Drooling.

Haha.. Thanks Dat, I just need to get through all of these models.. I blew through a can of Army painter grey primer... that was crazy easy. I need to get more.

Lone Cat wrote:

Hmelrose wrote:

I think you're looking for a trench?

yes. and the trench terrain piece has to have a lengh, height, and thickness that is generally agreed as having a 4+ cover save. given that my IG (well the fact!) army uses no conscripts nor fire teams (special weapons squad). only use rifle squad (10 men strengh) as a part of infantry platoon.

A trench or a wall should suffice, I think that you could make either of those fairly easily. A trench simply being a hole or ditch dug into the ground for a bit. If you're looking for a paper trench terrain piece.. I think you could draw one fairly easily.

leohart wrote:Btw, you should have a building/painting break and start playing some games. It should give you a clearer idea on what you need for fun games.

I keep going up to GW Tomball when I have time, but everytime I'm up there no one wants to play or the tables are full. I do need to get some more games in, its been awhile, but I think I'll scare people if I show up with all of these models, haha.

I have a few more pics to upload from tonight's work. Been trying to get these models finished for the painting competition this weekend at GW Tomball.


Oh yeah, I want to put these links here for safe keeping:
http://space-wolves-grey.blogspot.com/2010/02/how-to-convert-space-wolf-characters.html

http://space-wolves-grey.blogspot.com/2011/09/how-to-make-pre-heresy-space-wolves.html



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Here's some shots of my current BattleFoam Pack 216's current status build:





Here is the BattleFoam Pack 1520XL




My almost finished Canus Wolfborn paintjob:





The basing is still being worked on:


My two Thunderwolf models next to each other.. I have a few more I can work on, some off brand wolf models and another metal Canus model, but I'm holding off on carving up another metal model for now. I'm thinking of getting and trying to work with some of the finecast or build a mold from this metal model and cast some resin models, but thats a project for another day.



Automatically Appended Next Post:
I'm also putting these here as they're similar to the way I've been painting my Wolves lately.

http://www.thearmypainter.com/gallery_presentation.php?GalleryId=42&Gallery=Space%20Wolf%20Squad&page=1

http://www.thearmypainter.com/gallery_presentation.php?GalleryId=99&Gallery=Space%20Wolf%20Grey%20Hunter&page=1

Those wolf calvaries look awesome. Love the basing as well. They are prime target to get sucker punched by my scout power fist. :p

leohart wrote:Those wolf calvaries look awesome. Love the basing as well. They are prime target to get sucker punched by my scout power fist. :p

Haha.. we shall see.. I still have 5 more Thunderwolves, maybe 6 ( if I don't use this last metal model to try to create a cast ). Lots to do before this weekend!

I've got my Wolf Grey Primer & Dark Tone shade ordered & paid for through Fat Ogre in the Woodlands, Tx. I picked up some more grass for my basing, so we'll see how things come out over this weekends painting competition at GW Tomball.

Good luck on that one. Post some pix of your stuff once you have them submitted.

leohart wrote:Good luck on that one. Post some pix of your stuff once you have them submitted.

Some Space Wolves I've been working on, Grey Hunters fronted by a Rune Priest:







I've got some basing left to do, I need to add snow and maybe something else.
I have some shoulder armor painting/clean up, then I need to figure out which vehicles to submit with them to add up to the Battlebox sized force.

Let me know what y'all think!

So much stuff for me to kill. One shot of conversion beamer Str 10 AP 1, blast. Problem solved.

Good stuff as always. Now go and finish up that Rhino.

the finished ones look very good and convincingly brutal to me... the scheme really brought them out alive!

Those are some epic Space Wolves! Great work man.

leohart wrote:So much stuff for me to kill. One shot of conversion beamer Str 10 AP 1, blast. Problem solved.
Good stuff as always. Now go and finish up that Rhino.

Haha, slow down Dat, I'm still getting there with this force and you know from my posts on the Warhammer 40K Houston Facebook group ( http://www.facebook.com/groups/295114300504938/ ) That I've been painting up a storm, we'll definitely have to set up a game soon.

Viktor von Domm wrote:the finished ones look very good and convincingly brutal to me... the scheme really brought them out alive!

Thank you! I'm trying to keep the paint scheme simple and effective, sounds like its worked!

Flying Pooo wrote:Those are some epic Space Wolves! Great work man.

Thank you Mr Pooo! I've always loved the Wolves of Fenris.

Here are my old old Space Wolves on display at GW Tomball for the big 25th Anniversary celebration ( http://www.facebook.com/GWTomballCrossing )


Assembly line painting Rhinos/Razorbacks, I picked a simple paint scheme that could be used across 3 armies, my Space Wolves, a future Blood Angels &/or Grey Knights. I'm an advocate of a simple/common paint scheme for vehicles, this way I don't have to buy/own a huge amount of vehicles for multiple armies.



Work continues on the Rhinos/Razorbacks & Vindicator!


Some more troops for the Space Wolf Force, a Long Fangs unit, some more Grey Hunters, Some Wolf Guard, two more Rune Priests and an Ulrik the Slayer / Wolf Priest model


A couple of Drop Pods built..


Logan Grimnar Paint scheme concept in process:


Closeup of the AOBR Captain conversion, I wanted him to look like the boarding marine with a hand axe and shield. I clipped the hair from a Space Wolf model and drilled/pinned it in place along with the backpack and banner. I added another purity seal to the shield cause hell why not.



More models being painted and added to my Space Wolves Battleforce.


So there's an update! Hope y'all like what I've got to share and as always C&C appreciated!

Continuing to work on the Space Wolves for a Build & Paint a Battleforce in a month event at my local GW Tomball Crossing Store ( http://www.facebook.com/GWTomballCrossing ). I've continued to add to the models and this is from my facebook post to the Warhammer 40K Houston group ( http://www.facebook.com/groups/295114300504938/ )

These are not dipped, they're hand painted every one with at least two coats over the two coats of P3 Black Primer. I use a larger brush for painting space marine models since they're mostly solid armor.

The color is a thinned mix of codex grey & Astronomicon grey. Still debating colors and schemes for all of them. Space Marines are easy to paint, its really the accents like shoulders that need to be a different color. Of course, you can always go further and do a knee, leg or even half a marine in a different color using painters tape.

I will do the shoulders with either Mechrite Red to Scab Red or Chaos Black. I need to work out some pack of 10 colors to denote squads. The solid red looks good for uniformity, but when they get bunched up in games its hard to tell who belongs with each other.

I have toyed with the idea of using a white for the Long Fangs. I might go a different route.

I haven't used the traditional yellow for Blood Claws yet, because I'm not entirely happy with the conversions I made.

The WolfGuard need some unique-ness to them, but I haven't decided if I'm going to due a light blue or dark blue shoulder.

Next, I'll do shading. I've been doing this by hand, but have ordered some army painter dark shade to try it out.








And, this is all of the models as of two days ago, not including the Rhino's & Razorbacks.


Here following are the models I painted last night which include some army painter primer test models that I wanted to see what the colors would look like as well as some army painter dark tone shading.




Primed with Wolf Grey and then accented with Mechrite Red



Primed with Wolf Grey and then accented with Mechrite Red





I didn't like how thick the dark tone was for the army painter and the directions to dip the model and then shake it 5-6 times to get the shade off didn't work because of how thick it was didn't work, so I used an older large rough brush to dip into the can and apply the shade to the model, these are the results:

Brush-applied quick shade does seem to be better, can we have some better lighted pictures of one or two guys when it has dryed?

I like the wolves, but where did the mordians go?

leohart wrote:Brush-applied quick shade does seem to be better, can we have some better lighted pictures of one or two guys when it has dryed?

This is the guy who was dipped at the beginning, but later I had to use a brush to get the excess army painter dark tone off


This is the close ups of the brushed on army painter dark tone:

Capitansolstice wrote:I like the wolves, but where did the mordians go?

I'm working on them now! I was painting up 30, but painting a horde sized army is so daunting, especially when each model has about 17 colors/paints/steps. I've shortened that to about 10-15 models, so I'll post up progress:

my hat is off to you sir! that amount of painting...even if you used quickshader... the wolves are looking very good! and the mordians are coming along truly amazing! to see through so many work done on so many minis...you have a strong min on yours!^^

It seems that quickshade adds a reflective coat to the model making them look shiny. That is a lot of stuff done.

Viktor von Domm wrote:my hat is off to you sir! that amount of painting...even if you used quickshader... the wolves are looking very good! and the mordians are coming along truly amazing! to see through so many work done on so many minis...you have a strong min on yours!^^

Thank you, Yes, its a lot of minis painted and many more to go. Lots of work to be done on the rest of the Wolves and then the Mordians, so many minis its a bit daunting and ridiculous. The Marines are easier and faster to paint because they're simpler. I could probably do a variety of them with a combination of my painting and the army painter techniques.

The Red Primer I have I could do Blood Angels and the Yellow Primer I could do Imperial Fists fairly fast. Of course I'd have to invest in two more battleforces one of vanilla marines and another of Blood Angels, but I think thats a project for another time. I need to paint these models up first.

leohart wrote:It seems that quickshade adds a reflective coat to the model making them look shiny. That is a lot of stuff done.

The quick shade does a couple of things, it shades and then acts as a varnish, so yes it adds a look of shiny to the models. There is a matte spray which should dull the shiny, but I kind of like it.

more marines...? well^^

also i think the lil bit of shine...you trade it for a strong varnish i think...from what i heard these dullcoats protect minis quite good! and that is nothing to be sneezed at i say^^

Viktor von Domm wrote:more marines...? well^^

also i think the lil bit of shine...you trade it for a strong varnish i think...from what i heard these dullcoats protect minis quite good! and that is nothing to be sneezed at i say^^

Tonight's been crazy busy, I didn't get any work done, but I did do some research on how to build my own Thunderhawk

http://blizzardbeastssm.blogspot.com/search/label/ARMOURY

http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/242372.page

http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/401587.page

http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/346331.page

http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/324703.page

http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/291112.page

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.173530059361562.39164.161741390540429

http://barrykiker.wordpress.com/2011/08/11/diy-thunderhawk-developers-diary/

The next real step for those marines is basing them and then adding snow. I thought I might work on them tonight, but time didn't allow for it.

Here's a few updates on the Mordian Iron Guard! Trying to paint it up in smaller chunks.

From this:


To this:
















These should be hopefully done by the end of the week!

Love them man! Great Job!
If you are having trouble shading the yellow, try Red ink, it sounds crazy, and you'll still need to re-apply yellow on the highlights, but it works.

Red Ink, isn't that stuff extinct?

I stockpiled all the inks I could get before the big GW comet made it extinct

dsteingass wrote:Love them man! Great Job!
If you are having trouble shading the yellow, try Red ink, it sounds crazy, and you'll still need to re-apply yellow on the highlights, but it works.

leohart wrote:Red Ink, isn't that stuff extinct?

dsteingass wrote:I stockpiled all the inks I could get before the big GW comet made it extinct

Thanks! This group of 14 is looking more and more like its getting closer to being done:






So there is the Mordians, there are still several steps to do on each of them as well as clean up, but they are getting closer to being done.

I've also got a little Chaos in the mix here: http://www.dakkadakka.com/gallery/images-50179-24377_Chaos.html











The Chaos will need some work rebuilding the models and then painting as well as touch ups. I'll probably invest in some more Chaos troops and vehicles to make a decent list for them. What would you recommend for such a force?

I'm still in the process of getting a lot of my old models back from friends that I gave them to years ago, its a slow process with lots of negotiations and begging/pleading as well as coordinating of time and schedules. I've been building and painting pretty much every night, I get about 6-8 hours in modeling/painting and yet its still not enough.

I've recently been contacted about painting an Ork force for someone, its about 75 models and will be an interesting project. I haven't painted Orks in a long time, I did some research and am a little upset they took the color rules out of the system. Orks used to get bonus's based on the color of their skin in older editions, there are rules for color for the Orks, sort of:

1. "Similarly it is a well-known fact among gamers that "Red wunz go fasta," from the Ork belief that this is so." "Da red ones go fasta!"

2. "Orks lack individual psychic power, being denied such abilities by the Old Ones. However, they do have a sort of collaborative, collective psychic ability, meaning that if enough Orks believe something is true, then it will actually become so, brought into power by their gestalt psychic ability. For example, Ork rockets painted yellow create bigger explosions, simply because the vast majority of Orks think they do. "

3. "In addition to the clan colors, some players will also paint the faces of their Ork armies blue in a "Woad" fashion (due to the Ork belief that blue is a lucky color)."

I like the idea of Red Orks, so I've dug up some info on that and found some pics from others:
http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/286083.page




This guy has another red ork:




Now for some Blue Orks!
http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/311480.page


http://spaceorkspainting.com/gallery

https://plus.google.com/photos/105582963113829861589/albums/5469533446297888737?banner=pwa&gpsrc=pwrd1#photos/105582963113829861589/albums/5469533446297888737

And a yellow skinned Ork:
http://www.miniwargaming.com/content/3OeWD3dwJhm0


I like the Red Orks, I think I can do them up nicely in Red, plus they'll go fasta!

:-) They are Orks, I just run over them and dakka dakka them to death. Just kidding.

I don't know about Chaos. I would say you should wait a bit for the new codex to come out this year before deciding on what else to buy.

leohart wrote::-) They are Orks, I just run over them and dakka dakka them to death. Just kidding.

I don't know about Chaos. I would say you should wait a bit for the new codex to come out this year before deciding on what else to buy.

The Chaos models will wait, its a project I don't need to work on right now. I need to finish the Space Wolves and especially make some more headway into completing the Mordian Iron Guard

I'm still working out the details of the Ork Army Paint Commission build, just getting the initial pics down for my blog here on dakkadakka and the recording of the paint scheme will start to come together.

After getting an updated count on the models (original request was for painting 75 orks for $200 + cost of materials). This is more than 75 Orks. It is more like 78 Orks, 2 Bosses, 3 Def Coptas, 3 Mek-dreads, 1 Ork Trukk & 1 Ork Tank. Its a bit more than we discussed and will add on to the cost as it will take more of my materials + time to paint all of this.

I've already primed the models with two layers of primer and have begun painting a test/initial paint model as well as some of the vehicles and dreads as well as a couple of other models have received paint as well.

Pics are being cataloged here:
http://www.dakkadakka.com/gallery/images-50179-24457_Ork%20Commission%20Project.html






My Red Ork test paint process:

That's a really cool piece of Stained Glass there! What is it?

dsteingass wrote:That's a really cool piece of Stained Glass there! What is it?

Haha, no love for my paint jobs/work? /sadpanda

The stain glass is a piece of a larger set that was pulled from a house that was being torn down. There are several pieces to it and they're intact in their original framing sitting/propped in the window in the house I'm currently residing in.

Now go look up 'Never say No to Panda' on youtube.

Of course I love your paintjob man! lol

Too much orks. I want SM and IG stuff.

Like the red orks. I have been painting up orks with blue skin, just to break the routine you see at most stores and gaming circles. The mordian guard look great also.

hey hmelrose...have you considered white orks? or grey rather... i saw one a few months ago...very cool yet creepy looking...

man...choas and orks too in the mix... how long til elves and tau and nids are to follow?

dsteingass wrote:Of course I love your paintjob man! lol

Haha, well alright. Good. I thrive on constructive criticism and helpful hints/suggestions. How else will I get better?

leohart wrote:Too much orks. I want SM and IG stuff.

Dat! Hush, I've got this commission to get done and then I can get back to my IG & SW, not just SM ;P

martin74 wrote:Like the red orks. I have been painting up orks with blue skin, just to break the routine you see at most stores and gaming circles. The mordian guard look great also.

Oh yeah! I've seen a few with Blue skin out there and they look great! I'm looking at your Orks now: http://www.dakkadakka.com/gallery/images-29914-23721_Orks.%20%20The%20Start%20Of%20A%20Daddy%252Fdaughter%20Project..html


And they look smashing! Different colored Orks are the way to go, as they'll be less likely to wander off to someone else's WAAAGH! And they'll look cooler than generic green! Do you have a blog? I'd love to follow your progress.

Viktor von Domm wrote:hey hmelrose...have you considered white orks? or grey rather... i saw one a few months ago...very cool yet creepy looking...

man...choas and orks too in the mix... how long til elves and tau and nids are to follow?

I did not think of White! Oh the possibilities of a Winter World full of White Orks! Dress them up with GS Wolf pelts and other SW icons and that would be hilarious and awesome at the same time!

I've got some High Elf Silver Helm Cavalry models in a box, I took the lances from them for my Mordian Iron Guard conversions. I need to either trade those models or sell them. I really need to get a list of the stuff I have that I don't want or need and get a blog going in Dakkas trade section.

I have some Dwarves, a ton of Cadian & Catachan bits I may never use, but I think I'll hang on to and I really have way too many Space Wolf models.

More painting has been done, I've painted up a lot of boltgun metal + chainmail and then + mithril silver since I was running low on boltgun. I think I got a bottle that was partially full, not sure about that. I need to apply some washes and other base coats. I'm still trying to figure out the color scheme on the truckk.

I painted something like 50 models last night so I'm not posting pictures cause that would take ridiculously long and I want to get some sleep so I can get some game time in at my local hobby shop/ FLGS

Red Ork WAAAAAAGH Progress!

So they came to me in grey plastic, then I sorted and counted and prepped. Model paint progress, These were primed Black with two cans of Citadel Black Primer, then primed red with Army Painter Bright Red.




Mechrite red used as a foundation then base coated with Red Gore, then shaded, Teeth are Skulll White then Bleached Bone, and shaded

Metal is either Boltgun or Chainmail a combination of both with some mithril silver thrown in when that started to run low, Dwarf Bronze used on other metal bits.

Pants are Snakebite leather. Leather and boots are either Chaos Black, Scorched brown or Bestial Brown. ,

Scorpion Green used within the eye sockets, Skull White used on some of the eyes, Blood Red used on the tongues and eyeballs of the models.

Washes used include Badab black, Devlan Mud, Ogryn Flesh and Baal Red.




Test model is on the left and current painted model is on the right, progress up to 12Mar2012:








Paint scheme/progress is continuing to evolve and continue. I'm really liking how these are coming along and I think they'll look good once everything has been completed.

Group shot with the test painted model center front and the current Orks status (12Mar2012) arranged behind:

Red Orks now. Me likey!
What are you planning to do with the bases?

Flying Pooo wrote:Red Orks now. Me likey!
What are you planning to do with the bases?

The guy I'm painting them for doesn't want basing! O.o !!!!

I'm all like: basing =

He still doesn't want me to do it, thought I might anyway. The Orks are Red, so the basing would have to be something thats not red, but makes the red pop. I was thinking blue/grey aquarium sand.

No basing? why not? Did he say?

I think good old blacky terrain sand blasting. Looking like Orks in the lava world or may volcano areas.

Yeah, but they still need at least sand right?


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..kind of like having a Baneblade with no tracks if you ask me

dsteingass wrote:No basing? why not? Did he say?

He seemed ambivalent about it, I asked him and he said there wasn't a need for it... though I might do it anyway... its so tempting to just cut sprue bits and toss some sand on the base with a painted bit of metal girder (sprue).

leohart wrote:I think good old blacky terrain sand blasting. Looking like Orks in the lava world or may volcano areas.

Some black sand or rocks might look good, but I think it would bleed into the models colors and not set off the red of the Orks. I thought a classic green sand, but still debating that.

dsteingass wrote:Yeah, but they still need at least sand right?
Automatically Appended Next Post:
..kind of like having a Baneblade with no tracks if you ask me

Thats my thought as well!

Work is still progressing! Its hard to be random with the paint scheme on Orky vehicles. Painting the Ork Troops almost seems to be as easy as it is to paint Space Marines. I have a couple of squads completed and will post pics later after I upload them all.

Sorry all, got tied up and busy with some side projects and didn't post pictures!!

I've been playing a lot of Warmachine at Fat Ogre in the Woodlands,Tx ( with the Houston, Tx Warmachine Facebook Group https://www.facebook.com/groups/128014557313818/ ) while still looking to play some 40K ( with the Houston, Tx Warhammer 40K Facebook Group https://www.facebook.com/groups/295114300504938/ ) and relearn that game, through various online auctions, bitz acquisitions and more I've kind of acquired models for WFB so I'm considering that as well as Warhammer Ancients/Historical.

For the Warhammer Fantasy Battle and Warhammer Ancients game I've got the following models so far:

I've got some Bretonian Spearmen I found in the garage:


I have a unit of Chaos Warhounds, some Chaos Knight Horses with legs I could get torsos for easily and I can convert back the Chaos Marauders which I had built up for my Fenris IG concept




I've also got two units of High Elf Silver Helms which I took the lances from for my Mordian Iron Guard Rough Riders and I have 5 Dwarf Hammerers sitting in a box somewhere as well as whatever models I can recover from my old friends! Speaking of which, a good friend in California is shipping his Chaos SM Army to me fairly soon. How awesome is that!

I also have on the shelf 1 box each of Wargames Factory Vikings and Saxons which were acquired for Warhammer Ancients/Historical
http://wargamesfactory.com/webstore/hammer-of-the-gods/viking-bondi
http://wargamesfactory.com/webstore/hammer-of-the-gods/saxon-thegns

I'm still working and doing research on the Mordian Iron Guard Conversion possibilities and some of y'all might have remembered the trouble I had with the Chimera's I purchased off of Ebay and for those that don't they're still sitting in the simple green that I put them back into after this:


So speaking of the above Chimeras a friend from the Houston Warhammer 40K Group pointed me to this conversion, if you zoom in you'll see the turrets have been mounted to the rear of the chimera, thus removing the issue with the lasgun ports:


Now I know y'all want to know how the Red Orks are coming along! Well, this is how they looked about a week or so ago, I need to take some updated pics and get those posted as they look a lot better and closer to being finished. Lots of work to hand paint this many models and I'm having a bit of trouble getting the 'random' build/paint scheme down with the Orks trying to get them a little more dirty and diverse, yet maintain a solid paint scheme and not go harlequin on them too much. I'm using a ton of washes and boltgun metal, lots of various reds from mechrite, scab and red gore. Deneb stone for horns and teeth, Golden Yellow for some accents, These were primed Black with two cans of Citadel Black Primer, then primed red with Army Painter Bright Red. Dwarf Bronze used on other metal bits. Pants are Snakebite leather. Leather and boots are either Chaos Black, Scorched brown or Bestial Brown. Scorpion Green used within the eye sockets, Skull White used on some of the eyes, Blood Red used on the tongues and eyeballs of the models. Washes used include Badab black, Devlan Mud, Ogryn Flesh and Baal Red. Paint scheme/progress is continuing to evolve and continue. I'm really liking how these are coming along and I think they'll look good once everything has been completed.

So first off, here's a shot of my egg carton model transport hobby idea I've posted about before. While painting models I put them in egg cartons for large sized eggs to transport them and keep them from chipping paint oh and since they're orks in it, we'll just get some cheap wheels and turn it into a transport, haha.


Here is a shot of the orks out of the carton and the test painted model is center front:



Here is a shot of the Ork Trukk:



My quick backed up shot of my lighting setup to show how I take pictures with my cel phone's camera. Several sheets of bent white paper with a white lite / clear light source pointed at an angle toward the model, I've also got a second light on the desk, but its further to the left and doesn't always provide enough light, that light though is equipped with a magnifying lense to help with the detail painting.


MOAR!
















I have been toying with the idea of painting any and all the grots blue with white pants and GS'ing little white conical hats onto the models to make a smurf-grot army... I think it would be hilarious.

That truck is looking sweet. I might have to ask to rematch against Jim once this army is all painted up. Make sure you add some flares to the nobs because last time I had a hard time keeping track of which is what.

Btw, I am getting my own game board soon so I might be able to host a game night at my place.

I think the bases should at least be painted bestial brown..at least. The red bases are distracting from the red skin IMHO...

dsteingass wrote:I think the bases should at least be painted bestial brown..at least. The red bases are distracting from the red skin IMHO...

Yes, I agree as well. Yet, the Dakka photo editor does brighten them up too much. The guy I'm painting these up for doesn't want basing even though we have spoken about it since then. He's expressed interest in doing his own basing and I've gone over some simple techniques on how to do it. So I think painting the bases would be a waste of time and paint.

leohart wrote:That truck is looking sweet. I might have to ask to rematch against Jim once this army is all painted up. Make sure you add some flares to the nobs because last time I had a hard time keeping track of which is what.

Btw, I am getting my own game board soon so I might be able to host a game night at my place.

Thanks! Proper Orkiness is a bit difficult to randomize, I keep washing the model with thinned down paints to get it some diversity.

He hasn't specified which orks are which and I'm not familiar enough with the army/models to paint on those distinctive markings, so they're getting a fairly generic paint scheme across all the models.

I know we've spoken about your game board, I was at a train store today and saw they had a large rolled up green grass mat, you might want to look it up.
http://woodlandscenics.woodlandscenics.com/show/category/ReadyGrassVinylMat

http://www.zuzzy.com/dr-tf-001_terra_flex_gaming_mat.html



Just cause I don't want to lose it:
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

For those that are interested here's a link to a GW paint conversion chart:
http://www.games-workshop.com/MEDIA_CustomProductCatalog/m2320032a_Citadel_Conversion_Chart
www.games-workshop.com












Automatically Appended Next Post:
There is a Warhammer Historical / Ancients Battle league forming at my local Game store: Fat Ogre and I'm wanting to participate as well as play! We've got close to 10 players and from what I've heard we'll be seeing Persians, Spartans, Romans, Saxons, Vikings, Chinese and Japanese armies take the field at 2500-3000 pts I believe, no later than 1200 A.D.

I will be fielding a joint Saxon/Viking Army and that is why I'm here, to get more info on how to build an appropriate army, get lists and talk about models.

On the shelf I have currently Wargames Factory Vikings and Saxons which were acquired for Warhammer Ancients/Historical as well as some GW LOTR models:

1 box ( 32 Models ):
http://wargamesfactory.com/webstore/hammer-of-the-gods/viking-bondi
1 box ( 32 Models ):
http://wargamesfactory.com/webstore/hammer-of-the-gods/viking-huscarls
2 Boxes: ( 64 Models ):
http://wargamesfactory.com/webstore/hammer-of-the-gods/saxon-thegns

4 boxes: ( 48 models ) LOTR Warriors of Rohan, these are true scale 28mm:
http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/catalog/productDetail.jsp?catId=cat750011a&prodId=prod1500356a
1 box of LOTR Rohan Commanders: ( 4 models ):
http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/catalog/productDetail.jsp?catId=cat750011a&prodId=prod1460137a
1 box of LOTR Riders of Rohan ( 6 models):
http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/catalog/productDetail.jsp?catId=cat750011a&prodId=prod1500357a

Total: 192 models

Here's a shot of my Chimera, compadre. The rear-deck turret conversion is not a difficult one!



I removed all the Lasguns, and then built little hatches inside to show that people could still open a hatch and fire their weapon out of the gunport. Yes, it loses the top hatch WYSISYG for the special/heavy weapon, but no-one has complained thus far!

The red Orks amuse me, but if you base them, won't the buyer get upset? Perhaps if he's ambivalent, you could get away with a layer of black aquarium sand.

Also fun to see you fall sway to other games. Good to have an active group, I'm jealous.

--B.

Briancj wrote:
The red Orks amuse me, but if you base them, won't the buyer get upset? Perhaps if he's ambivalent, you could get away with a layer of black aquarium sand.

Also fun to see you fall sway to other games. Good to have an active group, I'm jealous.

--B.

Briancj - That looks great! And, its a better pic than what I had posted previously. Thank you!
The red orks are amusing me as well. lol. Lots of work has been done to them since the above posting, I need to get out my camera and take updated pictures. The black aquarium sand is a good idea, but I think the black boots would blend into it. I've got some grey sand train basing material I was considering using or even just regular sand, that would help offset the color of the red fairly well.

I love games, gaming and the hobby of it all. I'm always up for learning and experiencing a new or old game.

I'm going to put this Ork Fortress build here so I can find it later:
http://www.dakkadakka.com/gallery/images-30163-8631_Ork%20Fortress.html



Automatically Appended Next Post:

Hmelrose wrote: There is a Warhammer Historical / Ancients Battle league forming at my local Game store: Fat Ogre and I'm wanting to participate as well as play! We've got close to 10 players and from what I've heard we'll be seeing Persians, Spartans, Romans, Saxons, Vikings, Chinese and Japanese armies take the field at 2500-3000 pts I believe, no later than 1200 A.D.

I will be fielding a joint Saxon/Viking Army and that is why I'm here, to get more info on how to build an appropriate army, get lists and talk about models.

On the shelf I have currently Wargames Factory Vikings and Saxons which were acquired for Warhammer Ancients/Historical as well as some GW LOTR models:

1 box ( 32 Models ):
http://wargamesfactory.com/webstore/hammer-of-the-gods/viking-bondi
1 box ( 32 Models ):
http://wargamesfactory.com/webstore/hammer-of-the-gods/viking-huscarls
2 Boxes: ( 64 Models ):
http://wargamesfactory.com/webstore/hammer-of-the-gods/saxon-thegns

4 boxes: ( 48 models ) LOTR Warriors of Rohan, these are true scale 28mm:
http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/catalog/productDetail.jsp?catId=cat750011a&prodId=prod1500356a
1 box of LOTR Rohan Commanders: ( 4 models ):
http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/catalog/productDetail.jsp?catId=cat750011a&prodId=prod1460137a
1 box of LOTR Riders of Rohan ( 6 models):
http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/catalog/productDetail.jsp?catId=cat750011a&prodId=prod1500357a

Total: 192 models

So, Yes. I am quoting myself, lol.

I stopped in at Fat Ogre ( 1440 Sawdust Rd, Spring, TX 77380-2917 281.292.8444 Website: http://www.fatogre.com/yesterday ) to try to get some games in, to watch other games and to place an order some Wargames Factory Saxon Fyrd ( some being 3 boxes of 32 models each for an additional 96 models, bringing my total model count to 288 if my math is correct ). These models are needed for generic troops as the armored Thegns cost more points and Warhammer Ancients / Historicals is more WYSIWYG than other games I've played.

http://wargamesfactory.com/webstore/hammer-of-the-gods/saxon-fyrd

I've been digging through the Warhammer Ancients Armies of Antiquities v2.0 book as well as reading posts on http://wabforum.co.uk which is a definitive site for Warhammer Ancient Battles and I'm building up what I hope will be a good list to field.

We shall see!

Tonight I did some more work on the Red Orks, but I didn't take pics so HA!

Updates on the Ork Commission project! We soldier on and the Red Ork Waaagh!! Continues!































So this was started on 10 March and its 27 March, 2012. A lot has been accomplished, yet there is a lot to keep going with. I'll admit I haven't painted the models every single night, I've taken some breaks to play games, read up on others and work on some other projects that are on the table.

As always C&C is welcome!

I agree about the black boots and black sand, I hadn't thought about that. A lighter color then? BLUE AQUARIUM SAND! AHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!

Anyways.

I hope y'all don't have another heavy drought year, but it isn't looking good.

I think the black boots are looking good. Perhaps more metal pieces? Or maybe the base should be painted black. Everything is so red.

The basing bugs me too, but he said the dood doesn't want them based!

Briancj wrote:I agree about the black boots and black sand, I hadn't thought about that. A lighter color then? BLUE AQUARIUM SAND! AHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!

Anyways.

I hope y'all don't have another heavy drought year, but it isn't looking good.

I'm thinking on it. I know basing would make these look 100% better, but its extra work on a project and he told me he didn't want it done. So Derp..

leohart wrote:I think the black boots are looking good. Perhaps more metal pieces? Or maybe the base should be painted black. Everything is so red.

I can only do so much metal dude, they're pretty much going to be the way they are and if I paint the base black, then the boots would blend into the base. I might do a green, but that would be it. Basing with just sand would solve a lot of the color bleed and flare of the red, but he doesn't want it.

dsteingass wrote:The basing bugs me too, but he said the dood doesn't want them based!

I know! Its bugging the heck out of me too.

Gaming Tables:
http://www.geekchichq.com/furniture/sultan/

vs

http://www.drunkdwarves.com/?p=200

I can always use more models, but I'm kind of holding off for a couple minutes til I get these orks and now this WA, maybe the IG and the WFB armies completed.
or something like that

Its true, I'll never be done.

I did some work on my Warhammer Ancients army last night, clipping sprues for 300 models is more than a hassle, its almost a hoff.

I worked on the army list, tweaked it a bit between the Shieldwall supplement and Armies of Antiquity v2.0

Saxons

Characters:
Eorl 2Xh weapon/Jav 155pts +3(2HndWpn)+1(Javelins)+1(HeavyArmor)+2 (Throwing Spear) = 162pts
Ealdorman (A) w/ ASB/Jav is 83pts +25(ASB)+1(Javelins)+1(HeavyArmor)+2 (Throwing Spear) = 112pts
Ealdorman (B) 2Xh weapon/Jav 83pts+3(2HndWpn)+1(Javelins)+1(HeavyArmor)+2 (Throwing Spear) = 90pts
Ealdorman (C) 2Xh weapon/Jav 83pts+3(2HndWpn)+1(Javelins)+1(HeavyArmor)+2 (Throwing Spear) = 90pts
Ealdorman (D) Jav/Horse 83pts+1(Javelins)+9(Horse)+1(Riding Horses)+1(HeavyArmor)+2 (Throwing Spear) = 97pts
Total: 551

Shieldwall Infantry:

Unit 1 (+ ASB(Ealdorman (A)) and Eorl)
14 Thegns/FC/Javelins = 14x9(Thegns)+1x14(Javelins)+15(FC)+2x14(Throwing Spear)+2x14(LightArmor) = 216
16 Ceorls = 16x8(Ceorl/Fyrd?)+ ? = 128
Total: 344

Unit 2 (+ Ealdorman B):
15 Thegns/FC/Javelins = 15x9(Thegns)+1x15(Javelins)+15(FC)+2x15(Throwing Spear)+2x15(LightArmor) = 255
16 Ceorls = 16x8(Ceorl/Fyrd?)+ ? = 128
Total: 383

Unit 3 (+ Ealdorman C):
15 Thegns/FC/Javelins = 15x9(Thegns)+1x15(Javelins)+15(FC)+2x15(Throwing Spear)+2x15(LightArmor) = 255
16 Ceorls = 16x8(Ceorl/Fyrd?)+ ? = 128
Total: 383

Unit 4 (+ Ealdorman ? none available):
15 Thegns/FC/Javelins = 15x9(Thegns)+1x15(Javelins)+15(FC)+2x15(Throwing Spear)+2x15(LightArmor) = 255
16 Ceorls = 16x8(Ceorl/Fyrd?)+ ? = 128
Total: 383

Unit 5 (+ Ealdorman D):
11 Mounted Thegns/FC/Javelins = 11x9(Thegns 99) + 11x12(Mounted 132) +11x1(Javelins 11) +15(FC)+2x11(Throwing Spear)+2x11(LightArmor) = 301
Total: 301

Skirmishers:
9 X Geburs w/slings = 9x6(Skirmishers) + free(slings) = 54
9 X Geburs w/Javelins = 9x6(Skirmishers) + free(Javelins) = 54
9 X Geburs w/Javelins = 9x6(Skirmishers) + free(Javelins) = 54
Total: 162

Army Total: 2507

Leaving 293 pts for another Ealdorman for Unit 4 (90pts) then 203pts for not very many Vikings, 10 @ 140pts+20Lightarmor+20Thrusting/Throwing Spear =180?

I got a lot of work done on the Orks last night and even did some work on the Viking/Saxon force which is also going to be able to be fielded in my WFB Bretonnian or Empire and an LOTR Rohan force.

I needed to make some movement trays so I lined up and cut some plasticard into the correct shapes and used edge trim from the plasticard to help keep the models in the trays.

i love those red orks, but to be quite honest im exited to see your WHH vikings!

Movement trays? My brother and I switched to using Shogun Miniatures Flanged Unit Trays. These are machine made and the store owner shipped it super fast.

http://shogunminiatures.com/shogunminjaturessteeltrays.html

It works very very well since we put a little magnet under each base. Glue magnet to base. Done. No cutting, no lining and much more sturdy.

Rogue Wolves wrote:i love those red orks, but to be quite honest im exited to see your WHH vikings!

Thanks Rogue Wolves, the Red Orks are coming along well, I got a lot more work done on them last night. They're a commission job for a local player, my paint scheme and I'm happy with the way they're turning out

leohart wrote:Movement trays? My brother and I switched to using Shogun Miniatures Flanged Unit Trays. These are machine made and the store owner shipped it super fast.

http://shogunminiatures.com/shogunminjaturessteeltrays.html

It works very very well since we put a little magnet under each base. Glue magnet to base. Done. No cutting, no lining and much more sturdy.

Thanks for the link dude! I think you can just go to home depot or lowes and get them to cut you some sheets of metal for magnetic movement trays for cheap, if not even less of a price.

More work incoming later! I'm getting close to completing this and that for me is exciting!

The Warhammer Ancients Army is coming along as well. I've built some of the models, but I have a few hundred more to build and get settled into units, then primered and painted. It's going to be a few minutes before everything is ready to be fielded.

@Hmelrose: not true. I went there and they don't cut it for you. You need to buy your own hand-tool and you have to cut it yourself. I tried making about 10 of those and they are nothing comparing to these trays. Plus, one sheet of galvanized metal run you $10 and net you about 7 trays. For a couple of dollars more you can get the same from Shogun.

These trays are much nicer. They even have fitting flanges.

US DIY Big box places don't cut things for you..if you ask, they look at you like you have six eyeballs coming out of your nose. Apparently in the rest of the world, they do this, but not around my neck of the woods.

More progress made on the Orks and the Warhammer Ancients army good news and more to follow!

dsteingass wrote:US DIY Big box places don't cut things for you..if you ask, they look at you like you have six eyeballs coming out of your nose. Apparently in the rest of the world, they do this, but not around my neck of the woods.

Hmm.. maybe, but I've had success at Home Depot and Ace Hardware here in Texas. I saw a guy cutting pipe for a customer in a Lowes, so I know its a possibility.

leohart wrote:@Hmelrose: not true. I went there and they don't cut it for you. You need to buy your own hand-tool and you have to cut it yourself. I tried making about 10 of those and they are nothing comparing to these trays. Plus, one sheet of galvanized metal run you $10 and net you about 7 trays. For a couple of dollars more you can get the same from Shogun.

These trays are much nicer. They even have fitting flanges.

Really? I've seen them cut sheet metal for a friend, I know a guy at Fat Ogre who has his magnetic movement trays cut for him from a local hardware store.

Either way, its a great link and a great resource for magnetic movement trays.


Tweaked my list a bit based on some responses from the Warhammer Ancient Battles website forums:
http://wabforum.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=92&t=7965&p=104654#p104654

I'm still reading up on the rules and trying to get them settled in my head as well as build this list up. I'll keep the Javelins in this list and add another Ealdorman for the fourth infantry unit, I've given alpha designations to each Ealdorman to help identify them, when I paint the units I'll probably color code them.

Saxons

Characters:
Eorl 2Xh weapon/Jav 155pts +3(2HndWpn)+1(Javelins)+1(HeavyArmor)+2 (Throwing Spear) = 162pts
Ealdorman (A) w/ ASB/Jav is 83pts +25(ASB)+1(Javelins)+1(HeavyArmor)+2 (Throwing Spear) = 112pts
Ealdorman (B) 2Xh weapon/Jav 83pts+3(2HndWpn)+1(Javelins)+1(HeavyArmor)+2 (Throwing Spear) = 90pts
Ealdorman (C) 2Xh weapon/Jav 83pts+3(2HndWpn)+1(Javelins)+1(HeavyArmor)+2 (Throwing Spear) = 90pts
Ealdorman (D) 2Xh weapon/Jav 83pts+3(2HndWpn)+1(Javelins)+1(HeavyArmor)+2 (Throwing Spear) = 90pts
Ealdorman (E) Jav/Horse 83pts+1(Javelins)+9(Horse)+1(Riding Horses)+1(HeavyArmor)+2 (Throwing Spear) = 97pts
Total: 634

Shieldwall Infantry:

Unit 1 (+ ASB(Ealdorman (A)) and Eorl)
14 Thegns/FC/Javelins = 14x9(Thegns)+1x14(Javelins)+15(FC)+2x14(Throwing Spear)+2x14(LightArmor) = 216
16 Ceorls = 16x8(Ceorl/Fyrd?) = 128
Total: 344

Unit 2 (+ Ealdorman B):
15 Thegns/FC/Javelins = 15x9(Thegns)+1x15(Javelins)+15(FC)+2x15(Throwing Spear)+2x15(LightArmor) = 255
16 Ceorls = 16x8(Ceorl/Fyrd? = 128
Total: 383

Unit 3 (+ Ealdorman C):
15 Thegns/FC/Javelins = 15x9(Thegns)+1x15(Javelins)+15(FC)+2x15(Throwing Spear)+2x15(LightArmor) = 255
16 Ceorls = 16x8(Ceorl/Fyrd?)= 128
Total: 383

Unit 4 (+ Ealdorman D):
15 Thegns/FC/Javelins = 15x9(Thegns)+1x15(Javelins)+15(FC)+2x15(Throwing Spear)+2x15(LightArmor) = 255
16 Ceorls = 16x8(Ceorl/Fyrd?) = 128
Total: 383

Unit 5 (+ Ealdorman E):
11 Mounted Thegns/FC/Javelins = 11x9(Thegns 99) + 11x12(Mounted 132) +11x1(Javelins 11) +15(FC)+2x11(Throwing Spear)+2x11(LightArmor) = 301
Total: 301

Skirmishers:
9 X Geburs w/slings = 9x6(Skirmishers) + free(slings) = 54
9 X Geburs w/Javelins = 9x6(Skirmishers) + free(Javelins) = 54
9 X Geburs w/Javelins = 9x6(Skirmishers) + free(Javelins) = 54
Total: 162

Army Total: 2597

Leaving 203pts for not very many Vikings, 10 @ 140pts+20Lightarmor+20Thrusting/Throwing Spear =180? +3x7 2hnd weapons gets us to 201 or I can put those points into more skirmishers, possibly with bows. I need to look at the required percentages and what I have vs what I can field in the required army points.

On the shelf I have Wargames Factory Vikings and Saxons and some LOTR Warriors & Riders of Rohan which were acquired for Warhammer Ancients/Historical:

This is what I have:
1 box ( 32 Models ): Viking Bondi (approx$20)
http://wargamesfactory.com/webstore/hammer-of-the-gods/viking-bondi
1 box ( 32 Models ): Viking Huscarls (approx$20)
http://wargamesfactory.com/webstore/hammer-of-the-gods/viking-huscarls
2 Boxes: ( 64 Models ): Saxon Thegns (approx$40)
http://wargamesfactory.com/webstore/hammer-of-the-gods/saxon-thegns
3 Boxes: ( 96 Models ): Saxon Fyrd (approx$60)
http://wargamesfactory.com/webstore/hammer-of-the-gods/saxon-fyrd
1 Box ( 12 Models ): Germanic Cavalry (approx$20)
http://wargamesfactory.com/webstore/might-of-rome/ancient-german-cavalry
Total approx cost from Wargames Factory: $160

2 boxes: ( 48 models ) LOTR Warriors of Rohan, these are true scale 28mm: ($60)
http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/catalog/productDetail.jsp?catId=cat750011a&prodId=prod1500356a
1 box of LOTR Rohan Commanders: ( 4 models ):($40)
http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/catalog/productDetail.jsp?catId=cat750011a&prodId=prod1460137a
1 box of LOTR Riders of Rohan ( 6 models): ($30)
http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/catalog/productDetail.jsp?catId=cat750011a&prodId=prod1500357a
Total approx cost from GW: ($130) and I may not even use these models in my Saxon Army, though they look like they'd fit well, the command unit would work out nicely, but thats about it.
Total: 300 models

I've started clipping sprues, but thats pretty much where I'm at and any help would be appreciated.

This is my project & modeling blog on Dakka Dakka
http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/0/409334.page#3547003

Saxon Cavalry!

I'm using Germanic models, need to do some converting + figure out how to make it look like they're wearing armor.
http://wargamesfactory.com/webstore/might-of-rome/ancient-german-cavalry

I'm going to GS some boots onto the models, should be fairly simple. making it look like they're wearing chain or some similar armor will take some thinking.

hrmmm
lots of GS
lay out the GS, and prod it with a cut brass tube to make links

I was thinking of getting mesh from a screen door and cutting it down like a tunic shape and then gluing that over the model

could do that
http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/30/423496.page
scroll down
till you see the brass with GS handles
about half way down the page
could do something similar, with a smaller piece

yeah, still working it out in my head, just trying to build the models now.
I'm thinking I'm going to wind up pinning all the arms on.


Automatically Appended Next Post:

64 Saxon Thegns now have heads and 32 Viking Huscarls are glued to bases.

I've acquired some sand from my local GW Store in Tomball, Texas, its a great little store with lots of great hobbyists and gamers. https://www.facebook.com/GWTomballCrossing

I spend a lot of my time at Fat Ogre Games & Comics in the Woodlands, Tx
Fat Ogre near Rayford/Sawdust near I-45 in The Woodlands,Tx
1440 Sawdust Rd. Suite E2, Spring, TX 77380-2917
281.292.8444
http://www.facebook.com/FatOgreGames
http://www.fatogre.com/

Great game store with lots of Warmachine, 40K, WFB, FoW, Infinity, Malifaux, Heroclix , MtGand now a Warhammer Ancients league, so much activity goes on in this store its amazingly fun.

I want some sand :(. I need to ask for those sand.

Avoid vinyl screen door mesh if you can, glue does not like sticking to vinyl (that is why they make glue bottle caps out of it)

Back in the day, I worked at Lowes for a bit and we did cut wood for people. I'm not sure about Home Depot- their stuff is overpriced and I have to go across town to get to it, so I don't ever go there.

Ace hardware is a friendly place, but none closeby.

Menards definately does not cut anything that I know of, if they do, their associates are never around in the lumber area

leohart wrote:I want some sand :(. I need to ask for those sand.

Haha, Go get some then! If I've got my basing mixes with me, you're always welcome to a bit of it.

dsteingass wrote:Avoid vinyl screen door mesh if you can, glue does not like sticking to vinyl (that is why they make glue bottle caps out of it)

Back in the day, I worked at Lowes for a bit and we did cut wood for people. I'm not sure about Home Depot- their stuff is overpriced and I have to go across town to get to it, so I don't ever go there.

Ace hardware is a friendly place, but none closeby.

Menards definately does not cut anything that I know of, if they do, their associates are never around in the lumber area

Thanks! I'll most likely call around as I've got several hardware stores well within 15 miles of me. So lots of options.

96 Saxon Fyrd models for my Warhammer Ancients.


I found these plastic craft bins at Walmart for $4.79 and they fit all these Wargames factory 28mm models standing up, I've got 4 of them and they easily hold the 300 models I've acquired for my warhammer Ancients. Now I just need to find a bag for them to sit inside of.



The pickle jar is full of a thinned down Chaos black, I use that for a lot of my shading of models and it works great, especially for Orks.


I tried to use color primer and some index cards cut like a jagged stencil, but the paint pooled on the index card and ran down the side of the model I should have used something larger and that wouldn't soak up the liquid and become soggy





The propeller blades for the defcoptas were glued on and made it difficult to reach the pilot ork to paint him, so I used a jewelers saw and cut just under the prop, then painted the ork. Originally I was going to pin the prop back on with a bit of cut paperclip and a hole drilled by the pin vise, but when I put the first one on to check the fit the propeller blade rotated a bit, so I picked up the model and flicked the blades and they spun on top of the copter. I thought that was pretty neat so I'm going to leave them til I show the guy I'm building these for, if he likes it, then I'll leave it, if not, then its simple to add superglue and secure it.



I need to get a better camera, but here's some shots of this guy:




I started this commission around March 10th and have almost completed it. A lot of work has been done, and there is still some that needs completing, but it will get done soon and I'm pretty happy with it. I almost don't want to let this Red Ork Waaagh go, haha. I'm hoping that the guy I'm painting them for will appreciate the effort and work.

Now he can go out there and lose with style. Bwahahahahha.

You've been VERY prolific in your hobby lately! The ancients are fantastic! I really want to get into historicals in 28mm myself, so I'll be watching these progress man!

leohart wrote:Now he can go out there and lose with style. Bwahahahahha.

At least his models will look good when on the table. Haha.

dsteingass wrote:You've been VERY prolific in your hobby lately! The ancients are fantastic! I really want to get into historicals in 28mm myself, so I'll be watching these progress man!

Thank you! There is so much on my tables to be built and painted.

0. Red Ork Waaaagh
1. Mordian Iron Guard
2. Space Wolves
3. Warhammer Ancients Saxons / Vikings
4. Bretonnian Batallion
5. Warmachine Cygnar
6. Warmachine Khador
7. Warmachine Mercenary
8. LOTR Riders & Warriors of Rohan ( These will be used with the Saxon/Viking Army )
9. High Elves - 2x Silver Helm Regiment
10. Dark Eldar
11. Dwarf Hammerers
12. Warmachine Menoth
13. Cadians
14. Catachans

Just a ridiculous amount of models, its all a bit daunting and I'm in talks with a couple of other people about commission work for them. It looks like I might be investing in an airbrush set up to help speed the process along, but as of right now, everything is being hand painted.

For the Ork Commission, I'm so close to being done its silly. I'm not getting paid to do any conversion work to the converted land raider, but I can see how to make it look better. Though without talking to the guy ( I'll see him Monday night ) I won't get a go ahead. I'm debating just finishing this up and handing it off to him on monday night as it will be. He gave me no instructions or directions other than "just paint it" so I've done that.

I don't think I'll ever be satisfied with the paint job on them though.







Automatically Appended Next Post:
Status of Ork Army Commission begun 10 Mar 2012










And some close ups of the Ork Tankk

That is a lot of dakkadakka.

leohart wrote:That is a lot of dakkadakka.

Indeed it is!

Those Red Orks are looking amazing.

But SERIOUSLY he said no basing. They would just look a tad unfinished without basing.

leohart wrote:That is a lot of dakkadakka.

It is a lot of models. Hopefully you'll enjoy shooting them up, but I hope the give as good as they get.

Flying Pooo wrote:

leohart wrote:That is a lot of dakkadakka.

Indeed it is! Those Red Orks are looking amazing. But SERIOUSLY he said no basing. They would just look a tad unfinished without basing.

Thanks Poo! Thats 90 models in less than 30 days.

Yes, the basing issue rears its ugly head. I've got a little time and some basing product I'd love to hit these guys with and it would improve them 100% Yet without the go ahead, they'll remain basing-less.



I got to paint a little bit more on the orks, working on the tankk, then tweaked my Warhammer Ancients list a bit.


Awesome, I'm still reading up on the rules and trying to get them settled in my head as well as build this list up. I'll keep the Javelins in this list and add another Ealdorman for the fourth infantry unit, I've given alpha designations to each Ealdorman to help identify them, when I paint the units I'll probably color code them.

Saxons

Characters:
Eorl 2Xh weapon/Jav 155pts +3(2HndWpn)+1(Javelins)+1(HeavyArmor)+2 (Throwing Spear) = 162pts
Ealdorman (A) w/ ASB/Jav is 83pts +25(ASB)+1(Javelins)+1(HeavyArmor)+2 (Throwing Spear) = 112pts
Ealdorman (B) 2Xh weapon/Jav 83pts+3(2HndWpn)+1(Javelins)+1(HeavyArmor)+2 (Throwing Spear) = 90pts
Ealdorman (C) 2Xh weapon/Jav 83pts+3(2HndWpn)+1(Javelins)+1(HeavyArmor)+2 (Throwing Spear) = 90pts
Ealdorman (D) 2Xh weapon/Jav 83pts+3(2HndWpn)+1(Javelins)+1(HeavyArmor)+2 (Throwing Spear) = 90pts
Ealdorman (E) Jav/Horse 83pts+1(Javelins)+9(Horse)+1(HeavyArmor)+2 (Throwing Spear) = 97pts
Total: 633

Shieldwall Infantry:

Unit 1 (+ ASB(Ealdorman (A)) and Eorl)
14 Thegns/FC/Javelins = 14x9(Thegns)+1x14(Javelins)+15(FC)+2x14(Throwing Spear)+2x14(LightArmor) = 216
16 Ceorls = 16x8(Ceorl/Fyrd?) = 128
Total: 344

Unit 2 (+ Ealdorman B):
15 Thegns/FC/Javelins = 15x9(Thegns)+1x15(Javelins)+15(FC)+2x15(Throwing Spear)+2x15(LightArmor) = 255
16 Ceorls = 16x8(Ceorl/Fyrd? = 128
Total: 383

Unit 3 (+ Ealdorman C):
15 Thegns/FC/Javelins = 15x9(Thegns)+1x15(Javelins)+15(FC)+2x15(Throwing Spear)+2x15(LightArmor) = 255
16 Ceorls = 16x8(Ceorl/Fyrd?)= 128
Total: 383

Unit 4 (+ Ealdorman D):
15 Thegns/FC/Javelins = 15x9(Thegns)+1x15(Javelins)+15(FC)+2x15(Throwing Spear)+2x15(LightArmor) = 255
16 Ceorls = 16x8(Ceorl/Fyrd?) = 128
Total: 383

Unit 5 (+ Ealdorman E): Cavalry
11 Mounted Thegns/FC/Javelins = 11x9(Thegns 99) + 11x12(Mounted 132) +11x1(Javelins 11) +15(FC)+2x11(Throwing Spear)+2x11(LightArmor) = 301
Total: 301

Skirmishers:
9 X Geburs w/slings = 9x6(Skirmishers) + free (slings) = 54
9 X Geburs w/Javelins = 9x6(Skirmishers) + free (Javelins) = 54
9 X Geburs w/Javelins = 9x6(Skirmishers) + free (Javelins) = 54
27 models
Total: 162

Army Total: 2597

Leaving 204pts for:

Vikings, 10x14 = 140pts +20Lightarmor +20Thrusting/Throwing Spear =180? +3x8 2hnd weapons gets us to 204

Or:
Skirmishers 26x6(Skirmishers) +1x26 (Bows) = 156 + 26 = 182
leaving 204 - 182 = 22pts / 6 (Skirmishers) = 3.7 more.

Lots of things going on here on my painting table!

I've got to build a Pathfinder RPG character for a new campaign coming up, I need to tweak my Warhammer ancients army list, I need to read up on WFB & 40K, I need to wrap my head around some other Warcasters for Warmachine/Hordes..

.. and I've still got to get some work done as well as paint models

There is so much on my tables to be built and painted.

0. Red Ork Waaaagh - Almost completed!
1. Mordian Iron Guard - 200+ models & Vehicles
2. Space Wolves - 100 Models & Vehicles
3. Warhammer Ancients Saxons / Vikings - 300 + Models
4. Bretonnian Batallion Box set
5. Warmachine Cygnar - 200 models
6. Warmachine Khador - 30 models
7. Warmachine Mercenary - 50 models
8. LOTR Riders & Warriors of Rohan ( These will be used with the Saxon/Viking Army ) - 60 models
9. High Elves - 2x Silver Helm Regiment - 20 models
10. Dark Eldar - 20 Models
11. Dwarf Hammerers - 5 models
12. Warmachine Menoth - 15 models
13. Cadians - army box + several commands
14. Catachans - army box + several commands
15. Fenris IG Concept - 24 models
16. Chaos SM - needs to be rebuilt/fixed.
17. Warriors of Chaos - 5 Cavalry models.

There's probably some more models on the tables that need to be worked on as well.

Just a ridiculous amount of models, its all a bit daunting and I'm in talks with a couple of other people about commission work for them. It looks like I might be investing in an airbrush set up to help speed the process along, but as of right now, everything is being hand painted.

It just sounds daunting and it is... lol. the dwarf hammerers I only have 5 of right now, thats the smallest amount of models I have to paint, most of those are in the 100+ models range.

Its not so bad, I'm going to hit the saxons with army painter primer Leather Brown, then hit the metal bits with chainmail or boltgun and then brush on the army painter dark shade. I could probably do the entire army (once built) in a week that way. They won't look individualized and unique though.

I'll most likely do something more for the models though. the army painter shade (which I later found out is similar to minwax ) shades as well as varnishes, so I'm a bit worried about painting over a varnish and having the paint come off or not stick.

I've got a can of citadel dull coate, but I haven't used it before, so that will most likely be my first attempts at learning how to use it. I've also heard good things about Testors dull cote, yet haven't used it.

I've heard bad things on the GW stuff. I like price point for testors, bt I know some friends who don't like it. I won't know til I use it.


Automatically Appended Next Post:
Posting these here so I don't lose them jumping from PC to PC.

http://wabforum.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=92&t=7965&p=104654#p104654

http://turbilminiatures.blogspot.com/2012/01/viking-fortress-village.html

http://www.warandpeacegames.com.au/shop/productBrowse.do?categoryId=1729

http://saskminigamer.blogspot.com/p/28mm-dark-ages.html

http://www.houston-rpg.com/

Japanese Army Composition List from Warhammer Ancients - Armies of Antiquity v2.0



Late Saxon Kingdoms Army Composition List from Warhammer Ancients - Armies of Antiquity v2.0

Updated pics of the Big Red Waaagh!!

The Army as a whole:








DefCopta's!


KillaKans!








And I've lined up my Saxon Army models to get an idea of what they're going to look like fully fielded. The model count is pretty ridiculous, but I'm up to the challenge of building and painting all of these.

Too many Saxon. Finish your 40k stuff first. Those Ork models look sweet.

You're gonna ruin that vinyl grass mat on your table if you work on that table without first covering it with plastic sheet, trust me, I know, I ruined mine

Mmmmm. Now I need an Arnold Palmer.

leohart wrote:Too many Saxon. Finish your 40k stuff first. Those Ork models look sweet.

Haha, dude.

Thanks for the compliment regarding the Orks, I hope they play well against your DA.

dsteingass wrote:You're gonna ruin that vinyl grass mat on your table if you work on that table without first covering it with plastic sheet, trust me, I know, I ruined mine

Heh, That is one of the many great tables at Fat Ogre Games & Comics
Fat Ogre just up on Rayford/Sawdust near I-45 in The Woodlands,Tx
1440 Sawdust Rd. Suite E2, Spring, TX 77380-2917 281.292.8444
http://www.fatogre.com/
Pics of the store are up on their facebook and in the Houston Warhammer 40K group as well as on my own facebook
http://www.facebook.com/FatOgreGames
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=oa.415094648506902&type=1

I always lay out a mat or use the lid of the plastic bins when I glue my models or paint. I was simply lining up the troops to see how many and to get an idea of the project ahead of me.

Briancj wrote:Mmmmm. Now I need an Arnold Palmer.

Haha, come on down to Texas and I'll buy you one or maybe even two...

Very little work done on these Wargames Factory models last night. True 28mm scale models arms are tiny and I want to pin them all, but that would take forever. The contact points for these are small, so I've used a pin vise to drill into the shoulder and the arm to create a deeper area for the super glue to connect and form a bond with support.

Here is a pic of the plastic bins from Walmarts bead/craft section. I picked 4 of these up for $4.79 each, modular and deep enough to hold the 28mm model with some room above them.




Here are pics of the Wargames factory models with some Games Workshop LOTR Riders and Warriors of Rohan models as well as the Rohan Command box set models which I'll be using for my Saxon Army General and primary Army Standard Bearer.

The Finecast really caused some issues and even broke apart on the model, yet refused to be easily drilled with a pin vise so I could pin it with a bit of clipped paperclip, ultimately I had to cut a portion of the model out and drill at an angle in the banner.


Yes, my General will be choking someone while on the battlefield.




A mix of LOTR Rohan models and the Wargames Factory Saxon Thegn models, approximately the same size, but definitely different dynamics and builds.


This is primarily the LOTR models, I've trimmed off the base piece and attached them to 20mm x 20mm square bases which according to the Warhammer Ancient Battles rule book is the recommended size for 28mm infantry models. I cut up the Warhammer Fantasy movement trays, on one side they're in 25mm squares and on the flip the flat square is in 20mm squares. To do that, you're going to have to score with a solid hobby knife the groove. I used a box cutter with a metal ruler held in place by C-clamps, then just bend the plastic along a hard edge of a desk and it snaps right off, you'll get about 100 20x20mm bases from doing this.



This is primarily Wargames Factory models fronted by the command model from the Rohan command set. I still need to add shields and weapons to these troops.


Lots of work to do, so many models. Its just going to be crazy to try and get these all completed or even built.

Hmelrose wrote:

Briancj wrote:Mmmmm. Now I need an Arnold Palmer.

Haha, come on down to Texas and I'll buy you one or maybe even two...

I used to live in Austin, and still have many friends there.

Briancj wrote:

Hmelrose wrote:

Briancj wrote:Mmmmm. Now I need an Arnold Palmer.

Haha, come on down to Texas and I'll buy you one or maybe even two...

I used to live in Austin, and still have many friends there.

Funny, I too used to live in Austin, and still have many friends there. Dragon Lair and Great Hall Games as well as a few other local venues were my go to choices for Nerdery in that town.

I'm almost done putting arms on the Saxon Thegns. Thats only 64 models out of 300 though, lol. so 128 arms, with 128 Wpn & Shields
Which will leave 136 models left some of which need heads, 272 arms, 272 wpn & shields, then priming & painting and then basing all 300.
its like building an IG force

Speaking of, this is what my IG table looks like: Mordian Iron Guard, Cadians, Catachans and so many many vehicles and bitz to build.


yep, I keep avoiding painting that, but then I pick up other projects like these Saxons which are almost as bad
or those Red Orks
or the Space Wolves
or all the other armies and commissions
I picked up a Bretonnian battalion, but I don't know when I'll get to those. I see so much usable canvas on them. Thats partly why I like them as well, but its also the look and the fluff. Basically how they're all mental



last model for arms! And I forgot about the command models, lol. but they don't count they're Rohan LOTR models



Now for them to dry. I'm going to box them up and get some sleep. Now that they have arms, they don't fit as well in the bin, lol.

I've got a ton of extra arms and heads, just from the saxon thegn boxes only. When I'm done with all the other boxes I will have a lot more heads and arms, it remains to be seen if i'll have weapons. If I do, then I might just bitz order some torso/bodies and build a few more models.


I'll still need to put weapons and shields on these models and all the other Saxons and Vikings.

Hey, at least you got the Red Orks done. Now, you just need to stick to one of the projects at a time.

leohart wrote:Hey, at least you got the Red Orks done. Now, you just need to stick to one of the projects at a time.

Yeah, Now to get paid for the Orks. :p

I love this dang hobby Leo and I love to play games, so having multiple armies for multiple games allows me to pretty much find a game anywhere.

I NEED to convert some Imperial Guardsmen using these bitz for legs http://victorialamb.com/wugs/drookian%20gallery/highlandx15.htm, cadian torso, arms/weapons, and either the Pith Helmets or Balmoral caps listed here http://victorialamb.com/store.html That would be the absolute coolest.

You should check out Col. Gravis: http://colgravis.blogspot.com/p/praetorian-roughriders-for-sale.html He's got some great conversions on his dakkadakka blog: http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/208605.page Perry Miniatures and some others have comparable kits. I've used some of their stuff for my Rough Riders.

Hmelrose wrote:For those that are interested here's a link to a GW paint conversion chart:
http://www.games-workshop.com/MEDIA_CustomProductCatalog/m2320032a_Citadel_Conversion_Chart
www.games-workshop.com

Updated Paint Compatibility Chart!
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

Everybody suggests you should finish 1 project at a time Balderdash I say lots of projects at once gives you lots of variety and more interest which means you get more work done!

Llamahead wrote:Everybody suggests you should finish 1 project at a time Balderdash I say lots of projects at once gives you lots of variety and more interest which means you get more work done!

I knew I liked you Llamahead! I just didn't know why! Multi-projects are the way to go!

My buddy Threedguru is needing to sell his Black Templars something fierce:
http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/439212.page#4079068

I'm building a Bretonnian Army to 3,000 pts and only have the Batallion box set and two blisters of Bretonnian Spearmen I bought new back in 1996 ( I found them in my parents garage when I went to look for some of my old stuff. ).
http://www.dakkadakka.com/gallery/images-50179-23048_Bretonian.html

The box includes bits for:
1 Pegasus Knight,
20 Men-at-arms (including Champion, Standard Bearer and Musician),
16 Bowmen (including Champion, Standard Bearer and Musician)
8 Knights of the Realm (including Champion, Standard Bearer and Musician).

http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/catalog/productDetail.jsp?prodId=prod1050119&rootCatGameStyle=
So my question is, Where do I go from here?



Been clipping sprues all night and watching youtube videos as well as continuing to work on the Saxons/Vikings. I used to have a ton of Bretonnians from fifth edition and had given them all away. Still working to get all my old models back. Lots of conversations have been had regarding this.

Read a nice blog on some Saxons here: http://edmontonwargamer.blogspot.com/p/saxons.html

Some nice conversions here:
http://psychosispc-themadhouseworkshop.blogspot.com/2011/09/another-batch-of-space-wolf-scout.html

Very similar to my Fenris IG concept:
http://www.dakkadakka.com/gallery/images-50179-21946_Fenris%20Ig%20Concept.html

Still waiting on payment for the Red Ork Painting commission, so here is some pictures of that:

This box set is the fifth edition release of the Fantasy Games and includes both Bretonnian and Lizardmen starting armies. The models are all present and still on the sprues except for a couple which have come loose, but are still in the box. All the markers and dice are also in the box. The box is complete! Also included, but not pictured are the army list books for the Lizardmen and Bretonnians. All of these are from 1996! I can't believe these were still lying hidden in my parents garage!


I thought about fielding the Saxons with the Brets and make up some fluff that my lord is from Norsca and settled in exchange for land and titles like the Normans

but I bought the Bret Battalion box, so I have those man-at-arms with tower shields. They just don't look the same, though I'll work on fielding them together.

I thought about Kitbashing Mantic Undead with GW Brets and making an undead Bret army.

I'm at the point where I have to make a serious decision for this bret build. Mantic undead + GW bret or GW bret + Wargames Saxons or straight GW Bret.

http://www.manticgames.com/Shop-Home/Kings-of-War/Undead/Core-Units-Troops/Product/Undead-Skeleton-Troop-10-Figures.html

Giant Snails
http://www.thewarstore.com/product67772.html

Some players suggested I could make a double bretonnian & Vampire Count army as the Army of Mousillon

For those of you who are up on fluff: Mousillon is a fallen section of brettonnia. Later removed from the kingdom and deemed a cursed land. So I was thinking about doing these up to represent the "fallen". But I was wondering what to include in such an army? Naturally Blood knights and black knights but aside from that, what do you think would be a good representation in such an army?

The Unholy Knights of Mousillon. They are mentioned in the VC army book in the fluff about the Cursed Sheild of Mousillon, yet i haven't seen more than this. So it is of my opinion that these knights are the polar opposites of the Grail Knights. Withholding all pluses of the ideal of Laudin, yet with a more sinister twist. Unless anyone has any information to the contrary.

Bretonnian vampires. Here's how I'd work the mix:

Men-at-arms / Graveguard : Bret bodies, with skeleton heads or cut off their noses and paint them to look like zombies. Paint hands as though they are wearing gloves
Pegasus Knights / Vampires on Winged Nightmares: basic Pegasus Knight kits, but with appropriate bits and paint to suggest a vampire. Also, use these more frequently as FelBats
Knights Errant / Black Knights : Knight box with skeleton heads
Knights of the Realm / Blood Knights : Knight box with full helms, paint and bits to suggest elite vampires
Relique / Wraiths: Banshee on a 40mm scenic base serves as Relique, with Wraiths as Battle Pilgrims (the banshee can come off the 40mm, to go to an appropriate VC base)
Heroes : any mix of character models from either range

There are some things which don't translate between armies, but playing primarily as a Undead Bretonnian with the possibility of Vampires as a side army. Everything not listed above, is used "as-is" within the appropriate army. The only change to the Breton models is the use of skeletal heads and some arms instead of the living heads, and the VC models get some Bret bits in turn.

I've already put the halberd arms on most of the man at arms. The bowmen just need heads. if I was going to kitbash the mantic skellies, then I should have given the bret models the skull heads and/or arms and the mantic skellies the bret heads

Then I could steal some fluff and ideas from:
http://www.librarium-online.com/forums/fb-army-fluff/167332-darklord-duke-mousillon-vc.html
http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/364386.page

Its still a thought process and one that needs to be decided fairly soon. Like tonight or tomorrow, or maybe even monday as it prevents me from building anything currently.





Automatically Appended Next Post:
After staring at these, I think I'll just make them regular Bret models.

I don't have the mantic undead models in front of me, I have bret models. I figure I could get the mantic undead later and build/paint then put them into units of brets to make the army

I'm thinking a red/yellow color scheme for this army. Red yellow would look nice on brets

Most of the men at arms will be brown, due to their leather armor, with some red/yellow accents

Headless Bretonnian Archers


Man at Arms (half)



Man at Arms ( the other half)



Automatically Appended Next Post:
Worked on the Bretonnians a bit more last night:

First Pegasus Knight



Men-at-arms assembled minus the tower shield, so that when I prime & pain I can get to the areas behind the tall shield. I'll attach the shield after.


Peasant Archers, just add head, attach to base and they're ready to go!


On all the heads I drilled with a pin vise into the body and into the base of the head. I was going to pin them together, but decided that when the superglue fills the hole that I made, it would be good enough to hold the models together with a strong bond.

I've been directed to check out: http://www.roundtable-bretonnia.org/ It seems like a great resource for Bretonnia.

I've received lots of great input from a San Antonio, Texas base Wargaming group, 'The Gaming Garage' https://www.facebook.com/groups/175757472448931/

As well as my more local and vocal Wargaming group here in Houston, Texas: "Warhammer40K of Houston" https://www.facebook.com/groups/295114300504938/ and the Warmachine / Hordes Houston, Tx Facebook Group: https://www.facebook.com/groups/128014557313818/

Lots of good people on all the groups willing to talk, discuss, organize games and tournaments as well as hobby days. Good times.


Automatically Appended Next Post:

I Think I've got on hand or en route:
2x Bretonnian Battalion (The box includes bits for:
1 Pegasus Knight, 20 Men-at-arms (including Champion, Standard Bearer and Musician), 16 Bowmen (including Champion, Standard Bearer and Musician) and 8 Knights of the Realm (including Champion, Standard Bearer and Musician)
1x men-at-arms box
1x Bretonnian Bowmen
1x 5th edition starter box (with Bretonnians and Lizardmen)
4x Bretonnian Spearmen (will be put in to the men-at-arms unit)
2x Reaper miniature female sorcerer models (to act as damsels)
And,3 more Pegasus Knights.

Attempting to use some colored primer techniques to speed the process along with painting the Bretonnian Army and get an idea if this will help speed up later painting projects.

Normally I assemble my models completely and then prime/paint them, but with Bretonnians and their Heraldry/color patterns being rather diverse and with wanting to do a red / yellow army, I decided not to glue the horses together just yet. I used a piece of cardboard, some masking tape and lined up each half of the horses. I taped one of the halves to half of the board and the other half to the other half of the board. I labeled and numbered each piece, then wrote the color codes on the board.


To further speed up the process, I taped/built a cardboard wall right down the middle of the cardboard I used.


I used the Army Painter Demonic Yellow on the left half of the board.


As well on the men at arms shield and the banners:


I used the Army Painter Bright Red on the right half of the board.


Here is a shot of both halves.


And hours later, the horses have been removed and pushed (but not glued) together.



The Men at arms and Bowmen were lined up on another piece of cardboard and masking tape was used to keep the models from falling over when being primed or moved after being primed.


The models were lined up and I'm going to try out Army Painter Leather Brown colored primer to give these guys a brown leather armor look.

After Priming:

After several hours of drying:



And now more Men At Arms being built:

You sir, are such a cheater. But this is so good that I have to copy this awesome trick.

Painting heraldry of my Brets while they are assembled = pain. :(

More Brets.

Work progressing on the Men at Arms shields, I used masking tape again to hold them in place while I primed them yellow along with a couple of banners:


I want half the shield to be red and half to be yellow, similar to what the Knights mounts will look like, so using painters tape and going by the rivet on the band surrounding the edge of the shield I tried to half it, then secured the shield back to the cardboard.


Army Painter Bright Red Paint was used to spray prime the exposed half of the shield.


Rotated the banners and some of the mounts from earlier required some additional Army Painter Demonic Yellow. I'm a little worried about the man at arms arm, which due this has been primed Yellow. I'm thinking I could cover the banner portion of the bit and use the leather brown on the lower half of the bit and bring it in line with the rest of the models paint scheme.



The next set of Men At Arms primed with Army Painter Leather Brown



Progress is continuing and I'm still on the lookout for more Bretonnian models, the horse heads didn't come out so well in the flipside priming, so I think I'm going to have to do them either red or yellow, but not half and half.

Cheating. More cheating. Is this what I can expect of you Hmelrose?

You are undermining all my hours and hours of applying dual patterns on the horses by hand. I am so mad right now for my own stupidity.

leohart wrote:You sir, are such a cheater. But this is so good that I have to copy this awesome trick.
Painting heraldry of my Brets while they are assembled = pain. :(
More Brets.
Cheating. More cheating. Is this what I can expect of you Hmelrose?
You are undermining all my hours and hours of applying dual patterns on the horses by hand. I am so mad right now for my own stupidity.

Haha, You're just upset that I thought of it first. Hopefully this works out well.

I'm debating going over the reds and yellows with some red, but I think they're going to work as is. Though, I'm still wondering how to do the shield device on the side of the horse. Do I leave it solid yellow and solid red? Or should I try to make it half yellow / half red with some painters tape and spray primer these colors?

Going to check on the models!

Diverse blog! I really like the dual priming idea, very quick and effective.

Da Boss wrote:Diverse blog! I really like the dual priming idea, very quick and effective.

Thank you Da Boss! I'm trying to keep everything in one place rather than do multiple project & modeling blogs. I'm liking the easy of the dual color primering, but I'm not sure how effective it will be in the long run. I've got a lot of knights to build/paint. What games and armies do you play?

I'm assembling these bretonnian knights and wondering what the knight helms and arms would look like on say a white scars style bike army, but wouldnt they be more Templarish? So I'm thinking Black Templars + Bretonnians? I could see the icons working especially the shields.

What are your thoughts on that?

Maybe at a later date, a future project (I'll most likely forget about.)

Looks like someone has already worked on this theme a bit:
http://blog.spikeybits.com/2012/03/god-wills-it-crusading-black-templar_08.html

The results of the painters tape double primer test are in:

I previously primed these shields with Army Painter Demonic Yellow over the front half. Then I covered half of the shield with painters tape, alternating sides so they'd be similar to the Bretonnian mounts I previously primed. Then I primed them with Army Painter Bright Red:


The painters tape prevented the red from bleeding into the yellow and created a crisp, clean line dividing the two colors.



And a close up shot of the shields:


The back half of the shields are still un-primed, so I wanted them to look wooden/leather similar in color to the men at arms models I primed with the Army Painter Leather brown, so I lined up the shields face down on the same painters tape, pressing the edges down so that the tape sealed it tightly (hoping it would protect the front colors on the shield),


Lined them up at an angle in a cardboard box to prevent the spray from spreading out to other objects in my garage.


Then primed the back of the shields with Leather Brown



Waited a few hours and then peeled them off, Success!


I needed the banners arms and pole to match the man at arms, so out comes the painters tape and primers again, lol.





And here is where we're at:

Damn it. I want some painter tape now.

leohart wrote:Damn it. I want some painter tape now.

1+ I could do so much with a roll, and pinstripers tape too!

leohart wrote:Damn it. I want some painter tape now.

It does look nice!

Capitansolstice wrote:

leohart wrote:Damn it. I want some painter tape now.

1+ I could do so much with a roll, and pinstripers tape too!

I need to look into getting some pin stripers tape, I haven't played with that, but I could see being able to do a cross hatch pattern fairly easy with some thin strips of painters type paint.


I put together some of the knights today, trimmed up a bunch of the flash, I'll assemble the metal knights tonight and then prime them. I'm looking at priming them P3 White and then painting them either boltgun or chainmail primarily and then painting up the accent colors in Red & Yellow.

You can see some inspirational material in the background, I'm reading the collected Knights of Bretonnia books by Ant Reynolds. The main character is Calard of Garamont and in the early part of the first book it describes his fathers ( the Castellan of Garamont) colors as red and yellow.

Knights are lookin good. Cant wait to see these finished!

nice looking Bretonnians!

Rogue Wolves wrote:nice looking Bretonnians!

Thank you!

threedguru wrote:Knights are lookin good. Cant wait to see these finished!

Thanks! Still a lot of work to go though and I've got more coming in to help build this army up.

hmm.. what color should I prime the Pegasus? Red & Yellow, Red & White, White & Yellow, White & Black, Red & Black, Red & Space Wolf Grey, etc. etc..

red and black.. hmm.. the black side would be difficult to paint the horse up from, he'd have to go grey, the white to make the horse white and the tabard/barding red & black

I could try to make the Pegasus Grey with white wing tips. that might look good. prime the wings separately, white and then paint from there.

I've been prepping and putting together an Army Battle Standard bearer, a Bretonnian Lord, two Reaper miniatures to proxy as damsels (til I can locate the proper models), a few more men at arms, the Knights and Pegasus.


The Knights are difficult to stand up for priming and the usual tape in place technique wouldn't work, so I stuck them into the cardboard upside down. Here you can see a couple of the picture of the Damsels as well as the set up before priming.




I had an almost empty can of Citadel Skull White, so I figured I'd use that to prime the Knights and damsels as well as the army banner







The Banner!


Now the Red / Black Primer possibility for the Pegasus








Knight unit standard bearer arm


Tried to use painters tape to tape off half of the horses head so I could get a half red / half yellow color pattern for some of my horses, if it doesn't work then some of the horses are just going to be a straight red or a straight yellow. There's already too much primer involved on these heads.




The last two men at arms, these will be the standard bearer models for the unit of men at arms or archers, they'll fit in nicely with either unit.


Everything is drying and getting ready for the follow up layers of paint. I'm still debating whether to attempt further heraldry on the horses and knights or just leave as is. That reminds me, I need to do the knights shields! Going back to priming!


Automatically Appended Next Post:
Picked everything up from the priming area:


Here is the multicolor primed Pegasus in Red / Black:





The taping (by using painters tape) off half of the horses heads seems to have worked out well, giving me a cleaner divide between the red and yellow primers, so this might be something that I do in the future. Though it really isn't necessary.