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2014/03/05 13:56:02
Subject: Mechanica Australis - New bearings: More tracks on the making
The painting and detailing is what makes the model come to life. Seeing you make the WD Cotrell Baneblade brings back some memories. I wish that GW would re-instate the DIY rule sin their in their manual, but then, people like you and me would take away some of their money making opportunities. Browse the site for other WD built Baneblades. There are some outstanding build here on this site. Enjoy and waiting for new updates.
Strength and Honor
Silveroxide
2014/03/05 20:19:33
Subject: Re:Mechanica Australis - Digressing again
Silveroxide, I couldn't agree more, on most of it.
Maybe I'll ramble a bit, fell free to skip what comes next until the next, and proper, update.
Spoiler:
I don't build models to save. Actually, if I'd actually worked (as opposed to hobby-time, not that it didn't take work to build) the time it took me to make the last, I'd surely made more money than necessary to buy the model, and more.
(As it should be, thus proving the economic basis of master-model-making and industrial-like casting, BTW. If not, all models would be hand-crafted).
I enjoy the process of scratchbuilding - it being 40K related is just anecdotal to the point, and that's because I always liked sci-fi, and the over the top of the models and the fluff is funnier - for lack of a better word - than historical. And model trains take too much room to be properly built and run...
I even don't enjoy the painting in itself that much - though I certainly appreciate its value and contribution to the final result -; it’s the actual building - making something from nothing, and pieces of junk, mostly, what I like, and find overly satisfying.
And to the point, regarding the DIY rules: I don't think the missed business for the IP holder is the real problem. I mean, how many scratch builds like yours - or, even like mine - are out around there? And how many more would there be if they were allowed in official games?
Without trying to be the Devil’s advocate (and by Devil I mean the voracious capitalistic corporations, not the real Devil, which is far less scary), I fully understand, and to an extent agree, with a company protecting their business (I do it, too, in real life), it gets slightly more difficult than BtB when a profit-oriented organization meets gamers and hobbyists, but workable nonetheless.
I think the main issue with opening the game to DIY would came from elsewhere, and it’d be a limits problem. Where to draw the line, and, most importantly, who does it? I mean, a Baneblade built by Silveroxide, or Heliodore? (Just to mention two master builders related to the build on topic). Littletower’s? OK, let’s let him get away with his as well. And that not-so-carefully-finished tank over there? Now, I don’t know (and it be even harder if the builder put as much, or more time, enthusiasm and effort on it…) And that shoe-box, with a tank outline drawn on? No? Why not, and who says no?
I know I’d never try to field that shoe-box on a game table. And I’d expect other people to do the same to me, if I didn’t’ know better about the uncommonness of common sense and self regulation skills…
And there is where rules – and a good rule has to be simple, and sometimes simple means a tad unfair, or seemingly too strict, on behalf of an easier interpretation and application – come into play, and hurt some, to the benefit of the more. Unbound shoe box tanks and soda-can buildings can be as bad to the hobby as an IP owner’s rule.
And on the other hand, I always get to choose with whom and when (well, that last part is not absolutely true, given I seldom play, though I’d like to do it more often; just not located in the right part of the world for that, it seems!), and which rules can use some bending tuning.
I don't know what bug bit me and got me to this, maybe it is withdrawal syndrome from going back to work - without any hobby time today - after a four-day-long holiday.
Hope those reading will still come back, regular programming is expected to be resumed soon (enough).
Sorry to those stopping by!
Cheers
PS Edit(ed) to Spoiler the text-wall. See you around
This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/03/05 20:22:58
2014/03/06 20:18:54
Subject: Re:Mechanica Australis - Digressing again
Well congratulations on the win in the LoER Competition.
And I agree with your little speech.
I build because I enjoy the building, I am learning to enjoy the painting. I don't think many of my models comply to the rules these days. However, if you read the forward in earlier rule book, not sure about current ones. GW say, they are only guide lines and what happens in your house is up to you. In my house I play very occasionally against my kids, so it's even easier, Daddies silly tank thing is allowed because he says so, simple as that.
Personally I would and don't ever play in tournaments, far to fussy for me.
Now Littletower, please continue to stun us with your amazing scratchbuilding, oh and don't forget your running the next LoER competition.
@Camkierhi: Thanks (many of those to you today, on several accounts!). An epigram indeed I build because I enjoy the building, I am learning to enjoy the painting, I could not agree more
@LeCare: Cheers to that!
@Galorn: Thank, high praise indeed!
Already thinking on the possible theme for the next round, open to suggestions on that front as well...
Cheers to all, and thanks again!
2014/03/07 10:00:42
Subject: Re:Mechanica Australis - Digressing again
Otra vez, Felicitationes! Sorry, keyboard not configured for Spanish. I suppose I could use a lower case 'i'... iFelicitationes! Well, kind of works. Although now I'll get sued by Apple
Gotta agree with you on the painting part.
I even don't enjoy the painting in itself that much - though I certainly appreciate its value and contribution to the final result -; it’s the actual building - making something from nothing, and pieces of junk, mostly, what I like, and find overly satisfying.
And y'know, it is a commonly expressed sentiment among scratch builders that I've encountered. Funny thing, we all seem to be decent painters though.
Thanks both for the congrats, and for the pointer to the new Comp!
Actually, I gave it a thought too, but a) I wanted to keep the theme open to other games(ers) as well, and b) I was afraid of getting C&Ded for infringing the almost trademark of skulls all over the place
Cheers!
This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2014/03/08 16:15:54
Mastodon: @DrH@dice.camp
The army- ~2295 points (built).
* -=]_,=-eague Spruemeister General. * A (sprue) Hut tutorial * Dsteingass - Dr. H..You are a role model for Internet Morality! // inmygravenimage - Dr H is a model to us all Theophony - Sprue for the spruemeister, plastic for his plastic throne! // Shasolenzabi - Toilets, more complex than folks take time to think about!
Not much done as of lately, slowly putting some more paint onto the big guy:
Applied a first wash (too light, it came out after drying, hard to notice at all in the pics, just a tad less hard in RL, but insufficient for a proper depth effect nonetheless), worked a bit on the guns (first stages on the barrels and started with the burn marks on the muzzle breaks) and re-based in white the lamps and lenses for further painting.
As for the tracks, they are made from micro corrugated cardboard (micro carton ondulé ou carton micro ondulé, according to Google), available from school and art supplies shops (Though I recovered mine from my son's last year's kindergarten works!)
Entonces, estamos de acuerdo. Hmm, just how much not English before a mod gets involved? (means 'we agree' mister moderator man. Et, en francais, nous sommes d'accord.)
That's a nice rear view. Perhaps it needs, oh, turn signals? the only C&Cs I have: (1) the joint between the top armor plate under the turret, the rear track cover and the engine box, there is a space you may wish to fill...GS or even basic wood filler (the indoor kind, the outdoor kind is too grainy)...
..And (2) during those hours of painting all the details, don't forget to individually shade and highlight all the rivets. It will make a difference.
This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/03/10 21:03:19
Turn lights! And an Oversized Vehicle caution sign (With hazard stripes, of course).
On a more serious note. For 1) It is not an actual opening, although the way the three pieces meet at that point might not be the best one possible. Zoomed in from a previous WIP pic:
Three irregular triangles to close an ill-fitting gap, mostly caused by an imprecise positioning of the upper hull on the track housing (Not too clear building instructions and gun jumping to the build without additional research and references tend to end up like this!)
Admittedly, it looks bad in the former pic, will check on the model, if it wasn't just an unluckily angled photo, I'll surely cover it better, as suggested.
And 2), is there any other way? For starters, I'll try a darker wash as soon as I can.
Cheers
This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2014/03/11 02:14:16
I can have an entire conversation with you about what it was like to play the game "in ye olden days", when kits were rare, you had to build your own vehicles from deodorant bottles, terrain was ALL built by hand, and GW printed card templates for bunkers and baneblades.
'grats on the win!
Falling down is the same as being hit by a planet — "I paint to the 20 foot rule, it saves a lot of time." -- Me
ddogwood wrote:People who feel the need to cheat at Warhammer deserve pity, not anger. I mean, how pathetic does your life have to be to make you feel like you need to cheat at your toy army soldiers game?
^^^Vehicles from cracker boxes actually And printed card Orc dreadnoughts too. Good times.
Littletower, gives us a quick explanation of the how-tos of the water on your pipe?
My way: Use clear fishing line. Probably 100# test, and then use the fishing line as a foundation for everything else. I use Liquitex Gloss Super Heavy Gel for something like what you're showing, and then maybe acrylic glazing liquid to create ripples and such on the ground. They are painting supplies, should be available at a art and craft store. If nothing else do try the gel. It's great for turbulent water.
This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/03/15 18:13:30
2014/03/15 21:21:13
Subject: Re:Mechanica Australis - LoER Terrain Comp: Toying around with water and fire
1. Quick, uneven (intentional) spread on a flat (smooth, and ideally flexible, for ease of detaching) surface.
2. & 3. Lift off once set. Carefully peeled it off using a fully extended retractable cutter to free it.
(You know it and I know it, but I'll say it nevertheless: Be extremely careful when handling a cutting tool in this - or any other - manner).
Done.
4. Cyan + glazing medium wash. Pure white light drybrush on the forward edge.
5 & 6. Complimentary icicles, since the glue-gun was already hot, same principle. Once detached and blue and white wash & paint, they can be conveniently attached to a proper ledge.
The flat dried sheet can be formed (as in the S shaped jet coming out of the pipes above) by lightly re-heating (hot air blower, hair dryer, or even a lighter), it´ll hold the new shape once it cools down.
Hope it makes sense, and is of use sometime.
Cheers.
2014/03/16 00:12:07
Subject: Mechanica Australis - LoER Terrain Comp: Toying around with water and fire
Speaking of ol' timers, I started to work on something else to bring metal and wood into the equation too, hope to have something to show for that soon enough.
Thanks for stopping by.
2014/03/16 20:24:59
Subject: Mechanica Australis - LoER Terrain Comp: Toying around with water and fire
Ruglud wrote: That looks great, water gushing out the pipe is really effective. I need to pee now...
TMI Ruglud, T.M.I.
Littletower, that is exaclty how I use the glazing liquid. Hmm, here is a video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_ovNbnjRUNQ Of course ignore the recommended woodland scenic product and just use the more affordable glazing liquid (I prefer Golden glazing liquid). If you want turbulent water, the super heavy gel*I mentioned previously. Stuff works great, and at room temperature. Every time I use a hot melt glue, it ends in tears. Every. Single. Time. So I don't use it, except to temporarily affix minis into slotta bases. But I'll give this a try sometime. Painted black and finished with something iridescent, it could make a decent looking oil.
Thank you for the how-to. I see you make judicious use of alligator clips too.
Now I'm curious about the valve on the pipe, the small black one, specificallt the handle. What is is?
*And now that I think about it, you could sculpt some interesting flame effects with it too. Hmmm...
2014/03/17 00:54:37
Subject: Re:Mechanica Australis - LoER Terrain Comp: Toying around with water and fire
@Red H: Hobby supplies are not exactly abundant in the surroundings. make-do is sometimes as much a need as it is a choice. Wil check art suppliers though for and try to give them a shot, thanks for the link.
The wheel handle for the valve originally comes from a 1/35 artillery piece (A 25 year old model howitzer bearing M7 Priest, in the process of becoming a WH40K Hydra, BTW).
Today's progress, salt and weathering:
And started too on something else, old school style:
Wood ant metal are thus brought into play as well.
Looking forward to your C&C.
Thanks for reading.
2014/03/17 02:24:46
Subject: Mechanica Australis - LoER Terrain Comp: Toying around with water and fire
If you have an art supply store nearby, they will have it. Good luck. I know all about scarcity of supplies. The nearest decent FLGS to me is something like 70km away. You've gotten much better results from the hot melt glue than I could have obtained. Kudos for that
A verdigris effect on the pipe? Neat. Ilike it.
2014/03/17 03:53:33
Subject: Mechanica Australis - LoER Terrain Comp: Toying around with water and fire