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Looking good mate!

@monkeytroll, Gitsplitta, HAZZER: Thanks.

@Camkierhi: Advice taken - tell me what you think. Found this How to paint heat stained gun barrels - though I had to apply it twice...

@The Good Green: Maybe a tutorial eventually - if only so I can have all my painting notes in one place!

So, I'm just about there. Besides any further suggestions, still have some powders to add and possibly some rust. Grass goes on after the protective gloss layer. Need to get myself some Satin Varnish spray to finish up after that. With that in mind, I give you the nearly finished product!


Front.


Right (What does the shoulder pad read?)


Left


Front left.

Catchya!

I feel like there ought to be more chipping (not a ton, just a nick here and there), though that might be against your 'idea'.

He's looking really good; can't wait to see him after the powders make an appearance to dirty up the armour and cloak a bit

Now that looks fantastic. Smoother than a cashmere codpiece. Thats the tut. I saw. Nice work applying it. Knew you could master it. Whole thing is sweet.

'Hero' looking good there...just a bit of the old rust needed and job's a good 'un

Very nice!!!

@Anvildude: Weathering and/or chipping is a delicate thing - it is all too easy to do too much. I'm happy where it is at the moment, but thanks for your suggestion.

@endtransmission: Wait no longer!

@Camkierhi: Cool.

@monkeytroll: Well done - you *are* a true Ork. Bit o rust below.

@HAZZER: Thanks again!

Right - so the final PIPs - some very light rust and muddiness.

Front right.


Back.


Left.

Gloss Varnished the whole thing. Applied static grass. Matt varnished the whole thing. Gloss varnished the eyes and head gear glass. Job's done! Would you believe GW Oz doesn't sell Satin Spray any more? (apparently for six years!) They actually recommended I get Testor's Dullcote from the local hobby shop! Anyway, I ended up with Tamiya Flat Clear. Seams to have done the job.

Pics incoming!


Front


Back


Right


Back Left


Left


Top Right


Top front


Top front right


My "Herork" entry.

I guess I'll be back to Meganobz and Morgrimm now - until the Infinity painting competition launches...

Catchya!

He's good, I especially like the green on the shoulderpads; very nice transitions. I know you've got a lot of chipping on the red, but it's still looking very... clean

You could possibly do with a bit of dirt encrusted in the crevasses of the gun body, or some leaky oil?

Very nice job Arakasi... but why the gloss coat over the whole thing only to be covered up by a layer of dull coat?

Oh very nice

Armour looks fantastic, and love the look of the actual klaws too - didn't get a good look at those in earlier pics...

 Gitsplitta wrote:
Very nice job Arakasi... but why the gloss coat over the whole thing only to be covered up by a layer of dull coat?

You use a gloss sealant before putting on washes and powders to allow better flow and control.

Hmmm, I've done that with satin but never gloss.

In addition, the gloss is harder and more durable than flat coat, so by layering them you get the durability of gloss with the finish of matte spray. Thats why i use it anyway...

Nob looks damn amazing Arakasi. I love the little name banner with ork glyphs on his shoulder.

Nice job the finish makes a hell of a difference the glossed eyes and glass looks spot on

 Gitsplitta wrote:
Hmmm, I've done that with satin but never gloss.

For washes and transfers a gloss coat is better as the surface is completely smooth. Satin, like matt, still has tiny pits in that will catch powders and washes, causing slight staining wherever the wash/powders touch; so for complete control you're best off with gloss.

And as has been mentioned, it also creates a nice hard seal for gaming and transportation.

I thought you wanted pits for powders? Most of the instructional vids I've seen for weathering powders specifically say to do a matt varnish first so the powders have something to cling to.

@endtransmission: Yeah, I was quite proud of how the shoulder pads turned out - it's easier to see with a consistent finish. Possibly my photos aren't helping the "clean" look of the red - I'll have to try a pic with some of my other models for a direct comparison... I did put some 1:1 Badab Black Wash/Gryphonne Sepia on some of the moving parts, but I may have dulled that down with the matt finish - doh! Actually, I picked up some Tamiya Flat Base X-21 thinking it might be brush on matt varnish, but research suggests it is a "flattening" agent. I'm thinking of trying mixing it with the gloss at various ratios to get different levels of gloss - for the metal, skin etc - but not right away...

@Gitsplitta: I always finish my models in gloss to protect the finish, and then dull coat to remove the gloss effect (just leaving the gloss protection) - pretty much as per Ramos Asura stated. I'm obviously not a true artist - who apparently don't varnish matt or gloss due to it affecting the colour. I'm not that picky about my colours (and they all end up the same anyway) - but a lot pickier about potential chipping! As mentioned by endtransmission though - there are a myriad of reasons to use both at various stages.

Nutshell of my understanding of matt and gloss: Gloss = smooth, protecting - anything that will benefit from a smooth surface will benefit from a gloss layer ie washes and transfers. Matt = not smooth, dull - anything that will benefit from a not smooth layer will benefit from a matt layer ie paint, finish - if you've heard powders then powders too Like most things in the hobby - there are no rules or right and wrong, just different effects - you can apply washes to matt and powders to gloss - you just may end up with non standard effects (which might be exactly what you were looking for...) - and you can use various ratios between them as well. As it was, I mixed my powders in with gloss varnish and painted on - they weren't going anywhere!

@monkeytroll, Ramos Asura, lone dirty dog: Thanks.

Thanks for the great answer Arakasi, I wasn't picking fights, just trying to learn.

Ha! The thought of you picking fights... does... not... compute... We're all just trying to learn here

I'm sorry to say that ill be disquallying you!

 Gitsplitta wrote:
I thought you wanted pits for powders? Most of the instructional vids I've seen for weathering powders specifically say to do a matt varnish first so the powders have something to cling to.

It depends entirely on the effect you want I guess
A matt layer under the powders will allow it to stick with less fixative, a gloss undercoat will need much more fixative, but will allow easier (IMO) control when using something like white spirit to temporarily fix it to the model. The FW guys suggested a gloss coat between each layer of weathering so you can use white spirit to wipe off your powders and start an area again if it goes wrong.

As Arakais said, there's no right or wrong answer and whatever works for you is good


Automatically Appended Next Post:

 Arakasi wrote:
@endtransmission: Yeah, I was quite proud of how the shoulder pads turned out - it's easier to see with a consistent finish. Possibly my photos aren't helping the "clean" look of the red - I'll have to try a pic with some of my other models for a direct comparison... I did put some 1:1 Badab Black Wash/Gryphonne Sepia on some of the moving parts, but I may have dulled that down with the matt finish - doh! Actually, I picked up some Tamiya Flat Base X-21 thinking it might be brush on matt varnish, but research suggests it is a "flattening" agent. I'm thinking of trying mixing it with the gloss at various ratios to get different levels of gloss - for the metal, skin etc - but not right away...

I've seen that, but wasn't sure what it did... it's good to know!

If you can get hold of it in Oz, have a look for the Modelmates rust and Mig's oil. Both of these are brilliant, quick ways to add great results. I'm also intrigued by the new(ish) Mig Absolute Chipping filter.

Ooh...not seen that mig filter before, looks promising...have to put that on my next shopping list. Modelmates rust is useful stuff, been playing a bit with that...

 monkeytroll wrote:
Ooh...not seen that mig filter before, looks promising...have to put that on my next shopping list. Modelmates rust is useful stuff, been playing a bit with that...

Where did you get it from Monkey if you don't mind sharing

The modelmates? Picked it up at a model railway shop....

"WEE-PENT FER TER-MORROW YER DIE"
Love the idea, love of models, love the conversion and love the painting.
Love it

 monkeytroll wrote:
The modelmates? Picked it up at a model railway shop....

Well that was helpful LOL thanks any way

 lone dirty dog wrote:

 monkeytroll wrote:
The modelmates? Picked it up at a model railway shop....

Well that was helpful LOL thanks any way

There is a list of stockists on the Modelmates website, or they will be attending Salute in London this year. Salute is always a great, cheap, day out for finding things like this; plus it'll give you an opportunity to pickup the FW show models

 endtransmission wrote:

 lone dirty dog wrote:

 monkeytroll wrote:
The modelmates? Picked it up at a model railway shop....

Well that was helpful LOL thanks any way

There is a list of stockists on the Modelmates website, or they will be attending Salute in London this year. Salute is always a great, cheap, day out for finding things like this; plus it'll give you an opportunity to pickup the FW show models

I have considered going to Salute but the cost of getting there puts me of, as for FW models I go to the open day at Nottingham every year any way although they are charging £7.50 to get in this year

Thanks for the link though that will come in very handy

Dude this thread is MONUMENTAL! I need to put some serious time into this I think. From what I have seen your work is great! I think I can certainly pick up some tips in here... nice work


Automatically Appended Next Post:

 Arakasi wrote:
@Camkierhi: Unfortunately? Do you have a pic of the "skull" to strap to his back?? Bit like the alien skulls on display in movie? I assume the original movie - I can always get it out and flip through it to find it...

Started on the arm pistons, starting with Codename: War Machine. These things are *really* fiddly...

Codename: War Machine (front)


Codename: War Machine (left)



Codename: War Machine (back)


Codename: War Machine (right)

Catchya!

This guy is epic! I LOVE IT!