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Meh, I trust ya

I like the pose, very dramatic.

i second that

Who makes good cheap ink washes? I am going to be using a lot for the Capitol building and my next few projects. GW 's is too expensive for the amount I need. Any suggestions?

Thanks for any advice in advance

Buy a cheap tube of burnt umber oil paint, a can of odorless turpenoid, and a new brush only for the oil paints, and you have all the wash you can make.
Otherwise, I'd reccommend Didi's Magic ink- comes in big bottles.

check out les's wash recipe it should prove usefull

How about the Army painter quickshade stuff? you get a pretty decent amount in there. Never used it personally but if you're looking for brown-ish colours I reckon it looks okay.

Also, you can add thinner to weathering powders and use those as a wash.

I'm about to start making my own canal/river scenery for my board, I was thinking back to good examples that I've seen in the past and most of them were yours
It was quite a while ago, but do you by any chance remember how you did the effect on this:

madmartykmf wrote:

I really like how you've made the water look so dirty.

madmartykmf wrote:Nothing special but I want to know if anyone wants a step by step, un boxing kind of tutorial on using the GW kits.

Any one interested?

Always. Anything I can learn from someone else makes me a better modeler, and I'm always looking to improve.


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Also, I use Formula P3 inks and have found them to be to my liking for my Death Guard, but haven't tried the brown yet. I don't know why I haven't, just never occurred to me?

But as far as the inks that I have used go, I like them a lot.

Gorechild wrote:I'm about to start making my own canal/river scenery for my board, I was thinking back to good examples that I've seen in the past and most of them were yours
It was quite a while ago, but do you by any chance remember how you did the effect on this:

madmartykmf wrote:

I really like how you've made the water look so dirty.

Thanks, do several shades of brown til you get the color you like. After that tint your water color 4 parts water effects to 1 part brown ink. I found that the effect is better with a nicer basecoat versus a heavier tinted water effect. Make sure you do a test piece before you try the actual terrain! Hope that helps and let me know if you have any other questions. Also pour slow and multiple layers, allow time to dry at least 24 hours between pours (very important).

madmartykmf wrote:Thanks, do several shades of brown til you get the color you like. After that tint your water color 4 parts water effects to 1 part brown ink. I found that the effect is better with a nicer basecoat versus a heavier tinted water effect. Make sure you do a test piece before you try the actual terrain! Hope that helps and let me know if you have any other questions. Also pour slow and multiple layers, allow time to dry at least 24 hours between pours (very important).

Awesome, thanks for that man. I'll give it a go this week and report back if things go horribly wrong

Here we go...

this is two kits mind you.

Take the time to cut out and clean the main building pieces. It takes time but it is worth it. Next organize all the parts and if you have one, break out the bitz box! Make sure all your parts are clipped and clean and your off.

The instructions are good if you have never made one of these kits. They give examples of buildings you can make.

But if you are like me the next part is my favorite part... building planning! I grab a piece of paper and let my imagination run wild. This is another reason to have all of your parts laid out. In the design stage you will know exactly how many wall sections you have and of what type. This is also where your bitz box comes into play.

I am going to design my building and will be back in a few to show you the next steps


Stay tuned

And kids, Marty's 4th photo would be immediately followed by a picture of a bloody, lacerated thumb, had he been using a dull knife blade when he trimmed that mold line off! lol

A dull blade is more dangerous than a sharp blade!

Haha! Yes i have many battle scares from terrain making. If you are smart you will always cut away from yourself Next i will show you how to super glue your forehead to your workstation


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dsteingass wrote:And kids, Marty's 4th photo would be immediately followed by a picture of a bloody, lacerated thumb, had he been using a dull knife blade when he trimmed that mold line off! lol

A dull blade is more dangerous than a sharp blade!

Thanks Dad

I have frequently used superglue to close wounds that resulted from poor modeling decisions. I also keep a box of band-aids on my desk. No, I am not kidding about either.

Back on original topic, your bitz box is impressive and I'm excited to see where this is going to go. Thanks for sharing the process, I really enjoy WIP.

Simple design in progress while getting my car looked at!

Love the manly pink cutters

A sprayable version of CA was used by medics during the Vietnam War to close wounds and slow bleeding.

I would just like to point out that modern super glue =/= surgical glue

Though I have used super glue to close cuts before.

Once you have a design, lay out the tiles to see how it looks. Keep in mind we have not added any details yet just the lay out.

Most of you asked... this is TWO kits! Not a lot for 50$ us


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Remember this is going to be a straight forward building, o bombed out building

This is one of those moments where scale really comes into perspective. At 5 stories that looks HUGE, but compared w/ the panoramic scenes from fluffy artwork of a standard Imperial city, 5 stories is hardly the entry lobby to a small Imperial building.

Another "scale" issue I've struggled with is streets. Measurements from side to side (building, sidewalk, parking, 2 lane street, parking, sidewalk, building) done to a genuine attempt at "real world" scale makes a HUGE open area on the game board. Then I get into the concept of time, as in how long it would take me to run across the street and how many turns it takes for my Death Guard to cover a similar distance etc and it occurs to me that in "in game" an entire battle takes about 1 minute of "real time" and then I go off on other relative time / space comparisons and then sit down and paint a miniature because I don't want to think about game mechanics and the terrain issue is driving me mad.


Looking good so far.

I <3 you so much, Skalk.

Skalk Bloodaxe wrote:This is one of those moments where scale really comes into perspective. At 5 stories that looks HUGE, but compared w/ the panoramic scenes from fluffy artwork of a standard Imperial city, 5 stories is hardly the entry lobby to a small Imperial building.

Another "scale" issue I've struggled with is streets. Measurements from side to side (building, sidewalk, parking, 2 lane street, parking, sidewalk, building) done to a genuine attempt at "real world" scale makes a HUGE open area on the game board. Then I get into the concept of time, as in how long it would take me to run across the street and how many turns it takes for my Death Guard to cover a similar distance etc and it occurs to me that in "in game" an entire battle takes about 1 minute of "real time" and then I go off on other relative time / space comparisons and then sit down and paint a miniature because I don't want to think about game mechanics and the terrain issue is driving me mad.


Looking good so far.

Remember that the scale for a vehicle and for a standard human in 40k are off too. As are the ranges weapons can fire. A "long shot" in 40k is like 100 yards irl.

Gluing time. This can easily be the worst part of the whole project. Just a few pointers, make sure to use a ruler! Keeping everything straight and square is a lot easier then it sounds. Take your time and glue in small sections, this will help you in your task. I have almost smashed many a terrain pieces due to not gluing correctly. Make sure you use a good glue and not that fething gakky crap GW sells!

KEEP it square! If you are doing a multi level building, the whole thing will not look right if you rush this part. Slow, small wall sections and using a ruler will make short work of this.

Keep building each level making sure it is straight and square. Also make sure the floor below is dry before moving to the next one.

Almost time to add the details. Let the building dry overnight to ensure the maximum bond! That is it for the building part of the thread, well at least for tonight


Stay tuned!

woah!!!

Skalk Bloodaxe wrote:This is one of those moments where scale really comes into perspective. At 5 stories that looks HUGE, but compared w/ the panoramic scenes from fluffy artwork of a standard Imperial city, 5 stories is hardly the entry lobby to a small Imperial building.

Another "scale" issue I've struggled with is streets. Measurements from side to side (building, sidewalk, parking, 2 lane street, parking, sidewalk, building) done to a genuine attempt at "real world" scale makes a HUGE open area on the game board. Then I get into the concept of time, as in how long it would take me to run across the street and how many turns it takes for my Death Guard to cover a similar distance etc and it occurs to me that in "in game" an entire battle takes about 1 minute of "real time" and then I go off on other relative time / space comparisons and then sit down and paint a miniature because I don't want to think about game mechanics and the terrain issue is driving me mad.



Looking good so far.

Suspension of dis belief good points though.

Capitansolstice wrote:woah!!!

Thanks!



Hope you all enjoyed this little in sight as to how i assemble my city kits. Next time we will dive into basing and little details that give the building a life of it's own. That is if you guys want to see more how to?


Yes or No, do you want to see more tutorial on this building?

yes please Tuts. are always handy!

thats a big building, is it going to be a stand alone or part with another