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Made in ca
Longtime Dakkanaut





Surrey, BC - Canada

I have a few of those old models as well. Gave them to a friend in my gaming group when he was trying to get his sons interested. Sadly they did not and when I inquired about the old models (as another player was starting a WFB army) I was told they had been tossed out.

CB

31 successful trades in the Dakka Swap Shop. I have an ongoing Sale Thread there with painted and unpainted figures for sale to make room for more.
Finished Forge World Elysian Army | Finished Tau Sept Cadre | Finished Ork Waaagh | Alaitoc Eldar Warhost | Building Necromunda and Terrain
Order of Our Martyred Lady - Sisters of Battle | Finished Necromundian Imperial Guard Regiment | Building a 1/72 Flower Class Corvette - HMCS CHILLIWACK
DC:70S++G+M++B+I++PW40k-89-+D+++++A+++/aWD088R+T(M)DM+  
   
Made in us
Lesser Daemon of Chaos






 Arakasi wrote:
Also - voting thread for last month's DPC is up! Vote for the winner of the Dakka Painting Challenge Round 62: Pile of Shame. Lots of cool entries, a bit of old school in there too.


Thanks for sharing the link - voted for Gladstone and co.!

6681 points of
My painting log is full of snakes
Have any retro, vintage, or out of print models? Show them off here! 
   
Made in au
Ragin' Ork Dreadnought






Albany, Australia

@monkeytroll: It didn't even cross my mind . Not really the time for it, and he's a bit slight for a Chaos Warrior - which would require bulking up as well...
@Captain Brown: Apparently there are enough Orkmoticons. Unfortunately, regular people rarely understand the value. Give them the easy to build stuff next time (assuming you haven't been scarred for life and there is a next time .)

@Don Qui Hotep: Thanks for the vote!

Updates!


Some liquid greenstuffing of the gap between the base topper and the base. (Picture shown after filing clean up.)

While I had the liquid greenstuff out, I also made some progress on Stabbit:

Nose, snout and forehead.


Back.


Right.


Left.


Rear.

I had to add water to and mix my Liquid Greenstuff (it was starting to dry already...), and eventually found the sweet spot of applying with my silicon shapers, pushing into the gaps, and using a wet base brush to smooth out. Looks like some clean up and re-application will be required, but generally I'm happy with the progress.

Meanwhile, Manfred was base coated Mechanicus Standard Grey:

I traced Manfred's foot print so I can avoid puttig texture paint there.


Leadbelcher.


Nuln Oil.

As usual, I can afford to be quite sloppy on the first colour, especially as this will require drybrushing.


Armageddon Dust.

Catchya,
Arakasi

   
Made in gb
[DCM]
Tyrant of Badab






HATE Club, East London



This is such a wonderful sculpt. I wanted it desperately as a child, and finally got it in my thirties. Shamefully, I still have not painted it yet. :(

Though guards may sleep and ships may lay at anchor, our foes know full well that big guns never tire.
My blog - over 20 pages of Badab War, Eldar and other assorted projects 
   
Made in gb
Homicidal Veteran Blood Angel Assault Marine






Neat idea to trace his footprint, but did you not need to go up to the inner side of the line to avoid a gap? Will the gobbos be getting any paint alongside Manfred?

Goberts Gubbins - A Random Oldhammer P&M Blog, now with added Blackstone Fortress 
   
Made in us
Lesser Daemon of Chaos






Silver mail being one big contrast to your previous Chaos Warriors project, I imagine that Manfred has a much more sensible bit of briefs than Lunkop.

6681 points of
My painting log is full of snakes
Have any retro, vintage, or out of print models? Show them off here! 
   
Made in de
Dakka Veteran






Awwww, he looks so adorable with his chainmail mittens, holding his sword.
   
Made in au
Ragin' Ork Dreadnought






Albany, Australia

@Fifty: I can't take credit for the sculpt, and I guess I'm just lucky to still have it. I'll have to subscribe to your blog so I can see when you tackle it .

@gobert: Playing things by ear here with regards to the base. I wanted to make sure the texture didn't go past the line (on is okay), and I'm hoping painting in one colour should hide any gap. I'll see how it looks when I put it on. I'm coming around to JoshInJapan's query regarding the facing, and perhaps I have offset it too much - so this base may just end up an experiment prior to the final one anyway .

Gobbos are very unlikely to get any paint before Manfred is finished. The goal is to get them ready for undercoating. If the opportunity comes up to paint them for the DPC, I'll take it - in which case I'll want them as close to ready to go as possible. Hopefully I'll get Manfred finished well before the end of the month, and have next month's DPC miniature prepped and ready for the start of the month. That will hopefully allow me to branch out past the DPC in the future. Of course, I need start my LoER entry too... Hmmm... possibly I'm bordering on too much motivation .

@Don Qui Hotep: Indeed! Going for a cleaner paint job this time around.

@Viterbi: Well, holding a sword blade bare handed might be painful!

Manfred (DPC May) Progress...

Drybrush Leadbelcher.


Nuln Oil again.


Rhinox Hide.


Drybrush Stormhost Silver. Not sure if it is making much difference . First coat of Caliban Green.


Second coat of Caliban Green.


Nuln Oil over Caliban Green.

I'm realising that his head, which should be a focal point, is, without excessive highlighting, going to be quite dark. Hopefully, the lighter plume and shoulder boards (all in combinations of white and red) will help frame his head and keep the focal point there... Tossing up whether I should do the piece between the helmet and plume in gold - I may just leave that until later when I can see more of the colours together.

Next steps are highlighting through Caliban Green, Warpstone Glow and Moot Green. I should then be able to do the red underside of the robe, before the white outside as I work my way inside out.

Painboy Klinik (LoER) Random Notes and Thoughts
  • Old Ork Codexii refer to Mad Dok Grotsnik's "Medical Tent".
  • I wonder if any of the Black Library novels go into greater detail on Ork buildings and day to day life
  • Old School Ork buildings aren't very inspiring. Also - would never hold Ork numbers?
  • I've been looking at a cross between Dental Surgerys and Torture Chambers for inspiration .
  • I was originally considering (prior to the "Medical Tent") a light weight structure with several rooms.
  • Now I'm considering something that would need to be relatively light weight and mobile - Orks aren't known for permanent structures right?
  • So that leaves me considering a semi-trailer / tent combination - too ambitious

  • Catchya,
    Arakasi

       
    Made in gb
    Fixture of Dakka





    6 foot underwater

    Plumage and shoulders should be enough to direct focus on the head - especially if you're adding some freehand to the shoulders, you could use a pattern/design that helped 'point' towards the helm. Alternating red and white layers on the plume and some sort of chevron on the shoulders for instance.

    Definitely wait until more co!ours are down before deciding on the gold -but sounds good.


    Not sure on BL books, best bits of background I know of are the old Ere We Go and Waaargh Da Orks books.

    Is the klinik connected with your Dark Angelz, or seperate? That might help tell you something about it.

    Orks do have various permanent settlements, and in a variety of manners - occupied enemy places, self-built towns, reclaimed fortresses, crashed hulks, etc.

    Battle sites are where the tents are often found - although tents would also cover trailers, pain-wagonz, or whatever else took your fancy according to the orks it belonged to.

    If it's a mobile site for field medikalz then some things to think about would be claim pennants for the snotling orderlies to be placing by the wounded kustomers they find on the field of battle, the orderlies themselves, gretchin assistants, the various medical squigs, spare bioniks, teef bins for the payments, old limbs, etc.
    Is there a mekboy on hand for some of the more interesting 'fittings'?

    Just a few thoughts that come to mind...

    cyborks & flyboyz : http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/300067.page
    heretical ramblings : http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/302773.page
    imperial preachings : http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/0/303365.page
    Da Waaagh-ky Races : http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/325045.page
    Briancj: You have the Mek Taint, MT, and the only thing we can do is watch in horror/amazement.

     
       
    Made in jp
    Incorporating Wet-Blending





    Japan

    Was his armor always going to be green? You choose some unusual color schemes, my friend.

    Now showing dwarf berzerkers from Mantic


    Painting Total as of 7/7/2020: 112 plus two mechs

    Painting total as of 12/24/2019: 138 plus a wooden bridge and gnoll encampment and 36 pieces of Mantic scatter terrain and three fly holes and three farm buildings and a fire pit and two hills.


     
       
    Made in au
    Ragin' Ork Dreadnought






    Albany, Australia

    @monkeytroll: Thank you for weighing in on Manfred - Our thinking is scarily in alignment at the moment... Sadly, I think the old Ere We Go and Waaargh Da Orks books are just before my time (and even if not, probably would have been culled with my old Orks .) Klinik will definitely be connected with my Dark Angelz - but I suspect that will mostly drive the colour choices. Your copious thoughts will be added to the pile . (I particularly like the claim pennants idea. I'm also planning a dart board with syringes .)

    @JoshInJapan: Pretty sure it was always going to be green...
     Arakasi wrote:
    Current plan is a very Dark Angels paint scheme - dark green, white (not bone) and red - hope to do some freehand and/or decals on the shoulder pads and robes.
    Yup! I usually consider my self a serious hobbiest (well, on a relative scale...), so I'm more used to readers pushing for unusual color schemes than accusing me of such .

    Manfred progress continues...


    Caliban Green, leaving the Nuln oil in the recesses. Two coats.


    1:1 Caliban Green / Warpstone Glow over about two thirds. Two coats.


    Warpstone Glow over about one third. Two coats.


    1:1 Warpstone Glow / Moot Green edge highlighting.


    Moot Green edge highlighting at junctions and raised points.


    Mephiston Red base on the inside of the tabard.

    Catchya,
    Arakasi

       
    Made in ca
    Longtime Dakkanaut





    Surrey, BC - Canada

    Coming along Arakasi.

    Cheers,

    CB

    31 successful trades in the Dakka Swap Shop. I have an ongoing Sale Thread there with painted and unpainted figures for sale to make room for more.
    Finished Forge World Elysian Army | Finished Tau Sept Cadre | Finished Ork Waaagh | Alaitoc Eldar Warhost | Building Necromunda and Terrain
    Order of Our Martyred Lady - Sisters of Battle | Finished Necromundian Imperial Guard Regiment | Building a 1/72 Flower Class Corvette - HMCS CHILLIWACK
    DC:70S++G+M++B+I++PW40k-89-+D+++++A+++/aWD088R+T(M)DM+  
       
    Made in us
    Lesser Daemon of Chaos






    Looking good. I think your layering skills are very impressive. You consistently get very even, thin coats. How are you thinning your paints, if at all?

    6681 points of
    My painting log is full of snakes
    Have any retro, vintage, or out of print models? Show them off here! 
       
    Made in jp
    Incorporating Wet-Blending





    Japan

    The green armor is quite impressive. How long did it take you to do all those layers?

    Now showing dwarf berzerkers from Mantic


    Painting Total as of 7/7/2020: 112 plus two mechs

    Painting total as of 12/24/2019: 138 plus a wooden bridge and gnoll encampment and 36 pieces of Mantic scatter terrain and three fly holes and three farm buildings and a fire pit and two hills.


     
       
    Made in gb
    Fixture of Dakka





    6 foot underwater

    Very nice! I'm assuming the bits that look like elbow pads are actually part of the under-robe? Had to look at a few different pics before figured that out.

    cyborks & flyboyz : http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/300067.page
    heretical ramblings : http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/302773.page
    imperial preachings : http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/0/303365.page
    Da Waaagh-ky Races : http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/325045.page
    Briancj: You have the Mek Taint, MT, and the only thing we can do is watch in horror/amazement.

     
       
    Made in au
    Ragin' Ork Dreadnought






    Albany, Australia

    @Captain Brown: It is indeed - thank you.

    @Don Qui Hotep: I'm working on my wet palette (pictured in the spoiler here). I have a small syringe I keep filled with filtered water - but a drop from that is always too much unless I'm mixing a dropper bottle drip or two of a two colour mixture. Mostly I rinse my base coat brush, "dry" on paper towel, and then mix the paint with what moisture is left and that is more than enough in most cases. It probably helps that most of my paints are relatively new - although some require more water than others. I think the other big thing - which I consistently struggle with, is simply patience. The best results are built up from multiple thin layers...

    @JoshInJapan: I tend to do each colour in two or three phases. Phase 1 - base coat and wash. Phase 2 - redo base coat over everything other than the recesses. Phase 3 - everything else. Basically, phase 2 and phase 3 merge unless phase 2 takes too long. I can tell from my previous post that in this case I did it all in one sitting - so two to three hours. They were very small areas after all .

    @monkeytroll: Yes, part of the under-robe (not elbow pads). To be painted white...

    Manfred updates:

    Celestra Grey plume, Asurman Blue wash inner tabard.


    Mephiston Red over Asurman Blue wash inner tabard.


    Evil Sunz Scarlet inner tabard.


    Wild Rider Red inner tabard.


    Celestra Grey.


    Nuln Oil over Celestra Grey.


    Am I mad?!? Also, Celestra Grey over Nuln Oil.

    Catchya,
    Arakasi

       
    Made in no
    Boom! Leman Russ Commander






    Oslo Norway

    Dig those old weirdoes, so much personality in the sculpt, and just enough details to make painting interesting, not so many that it becomes a chore. The green turned out very well.

    I got him and some of his weirdo friends waiting for a nice and flashy paintjob in the backlog

       
    Made in us
    Lesser Daemon of Chaos






    I really like how you staggered the columns of red and white at each tier of the poof, it looks more realistic that way.

    Thanks also for your tips about the wet palette, a friend has been using one for the better part of a year and I can't argue with his results either. Probably time to set one up!

    6681 points of
    My painting log is full of snakes
    Have any retro, vintage, or out of print models? Show them off here! 
       
    Made in au
    Ragin' Ork Dreadnought






    Albany, Australia

    @Illumini: Welcome and thank you.

    @Don Qui Hotep: Sort of just worked out. I wanted to alternate the colours, but there are different numbers of columns on each row... Yes - it is time. If the Darren Latham videos are still up on YouTube, he had one for making an even simpler/cheaper wet palette than mine!

    Manfred progress:

    As the details get smaller, the number of photos do too? The tabard has been highlighted up through 1:1 Celestra Grey / Ulthuan Grey and pure Ulthuan Grey, then edge highlighted 1:1 Ulthuan Grey / White Scar and pure White Scar. I'm not really liking the Nuln Oil wash . Meanwhile the, under chain? (front) and sash (back) has been given their Caliban Green base coats, and the tunic sleeves and tabard top (back) base coated Celestra Grey.


    Trying something new - I've gone with an Asurmen Blue wash over the tabard top (back) and plume to see if that works out better for me. If it does, I'll redo the rest of the tabard.


    Lastly, I've been practising his cross symbol for his tabard. Red was my first attempt, where I thought I could use circles inside a larger circle to create the pattern - it didn't work out so well. The grey was actually done free hand. The green was an attempt to replicate the grey more consistently. If you consider the grey on the green should be white - I think that method works out quite well. (And if you followed all of that, here's a cookie!)

    Catchya,
    Arakasi

       
    Made in us
    Decrepit Dakkanaut






    Madison, WI

    Love the green on Manfred Arakasi... nice blends you have going on there.

       
    Made in gb
    Fixture of Dakka





    6 foot underwater

    All looking good. I think the blue wash should work well - once it's been highlighted back up to white should just add that tonal variation into the colour.

    Good thinking on the cross - could you use a paper template (thinking of something like a hole-punch) to get the initial circle down? I know the tabard is reasonably flat, but I can certainly never get a circle right on anything that isn't flat.

    cyborks & flyboyz : http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/300067.page
    heretical ramblings : http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/302773.page
    imperial preachings : http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/0/303365.page
    Da Waaagh-ky Races : http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/325045.page
    Briancj: You have the Mek Taint, MT, and the only thing we can do is watch in horror/amazement.

     
       
    Made in au
    Ragin' Ork Dreadnought






    Albany, Australia

    @Gitsplitta: Thank you.

    @monkeytroll: Check out below re blue wash. The problem with using a flat template on something that isn't flat is that the end result shouldn't look like it is flat . On the plus side, non flat surfaces do give you a bit of leeway to make mistakes / imperfections - I hope . I think if I draw it and tidy it up as I go, it should be okay... here's to new things!

    Manfred progress:

    Celestra Grey back over the Asurman Blue wash (also on plume.)


    1:1 Celestra Grey / Ulthuan Grey (also on plume, but then I realised I didn't need to do so many gradiations on such a small area!)


    Ulthuan Grey (also on the plume, along with Mephiston Red and Evil Sunz Scarlet.)


    1:1 Ulthuan Grey / White Scar followed by pure White Scar (also White Scar and Wild Rider Red on the plume.)


    In case it makes any difference - Caliban Green base above the tabard top.

    I think it looks better. Any contrary opinions before I redo the rest of the tabard?

    Catchya,
    Arakasi

       
    Made in us
    Dakka Veteran





    Nah, I think the the upper blue-ish area did come off better than the lower one. Looks excellent either way.
       
    Made in no
    Boom! Leman Russ Commander






    Oslo Norway

    Blue shading is better than grey for white, looks much better

       
    Made in ca
    Longtime Dakkanaut





    Surrey, BC - Canada

    Go with the blue Arakasi.

    My two cents,

    CB

    31 successful trades in the Dakka Swap Shop. I have an ongoing Sale Thread there with painted and unpainted figures for sale to make room for more.
    Finished Forge World Elysian Army | Finished Tau Sept Cadre | Finished Ork Waaagh | Alaitoc Eldar Warhost | Building Necromunda and Terrain
    Order of Our Martyred Lady - Sisters of Battle | Finished Necromundian Imperial Guard Regiment | Building a 1/72 Flower Class Corvette - HMCS CHILLIWACK
    DC:70S++G+M++B+I++PW40k-89-+D+++++A+++/aWD088R+T(M)DM+  
       
    Made in us
    Lesser Daemon of Chaos






    Agreed, love that blue shading, a bit less severe gradation than the nuln oil. But the crusader's coming together really well, regardless!

    6681 points of
    My painting log is full of snakes
    Have any retro, vintage, or out of print models? Show them off here! 
       
    Made in de
    Dakka Veteran






    Amazing what work you put into the mini, the plume is excellent and the rest coming along very nicely! And being the minority, but I actually like the look on the lower tabard better, but only because it looks more grimey. If you are going for a cleaner look on the robes, blue is the better choice.
       
    Made in gb
    Fixture of Dakka





    6 foot underwater

    Yep, blue wash

    That's why I was thinking a paper template - should confirm to the surface better than card or plasticard I think you'll be fine without though - it's not a massively varied surface, and your point in giving a bit of leeway stands.

    cyborks & flyboyz : http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/300067.page
    heretical ramblings : http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/302773.page
    imperial preachings : http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/0/303365.page
    Da Waaagh-ky Races : http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/325045.page
    Briancj: You have the Mek Taint, MT, and the only thing we can do is watch in horror/amazement.

     
       
    Made in au
    Ragin' Ork Dreadnought






    Albany, Australia

    Thank you everyone for your input. As you can see below, I went with the blue shading - and I do think that worked out better.

    @monkeytroll: I think even a paper template would be fiddly at this size. Alas, I did not even try - I'll save that experiment for another time.

    Let's start with where I am up to:


    Then you can go through the spoilers for the steps if you are interested.

    Redoing the tabard using a Blue wash.
    Spoiler:

    Celestra Grey base over the tabard, followed by Asurmen Blue wash.


    Celestra Grey.


    1:1 Celestra Grey / Ulthuan Grey.


    Ulthuan Grey.


    1:1 Ulthuan Grey / White Scar.


    White Scar, Mephiston Red border.

    Freehand cross.
    Spoiler:

    Mephiston Red circle center and compass point boundaries.


    Draw in the Mephiston Red circle.


    Then the Mephiston Red cross.


    Use Celestra Grey to divide the circle into quarters.


    Fill in the cross with Mepiston Red.


    Add Evil Sunz Scarlett and Wildrider Red highlights and clean up with Celestra Grey. Also highlighted the Dark Angels Green here as well.


    Base the shoulder plates in Celestra Grey.

    Eleven days to go...

    Catchya,
    Arakasi

       
    Made in gb
    Nimble Pistolier





    United Kingdom

    Absolute tremendous models in here. Really enjoying your newest hero. The freehand is awesome. I usually miss out freehand for fear of ruining a model I've spent alot of time on.

       
     
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