Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you:
No adverts like this in the forums anymore.
Times and dates in your local timezone.
Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance.
Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely.
Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net.
If you are already a member then feel free to login now.
Subject: Re:Arakasi Reloaded: Manfred, Heroic Fighter of the Known World
So, Manfred has a cross icon on his chest and at his right side. I was going to do these metal for the discs they are mounted on and gold for the cross. I'm having second thoughts about the discs. Green would give the most contrast I feel, but may get lost on the chest. Red and white being the obvious other choices... No rule that says they have to be done identically either... any thoughts?
I'd think green would kinda get lost, while gold might be a bit too many colors. Possibly red discs with white crosses, or chrome/aluminium discs and red crosses? Could also try something like vallejo's mecha colors red or model air signal red metallics?
Subject: Re:Arakasi Reloaded: Manfred, Heroic Fighter of the Known World
I don't think using gold would necessarily throw too many colors on the model. Maybe a white or red circle with a gold cross? Although I agree with CB agreeing with MT, green and red is not only festive but would tie together all your different colors in a nice way - and the cross in the chest may be a good transition point from the tabard to the armor.
Automatically Appended Next Post: Oh and also, Manfred's looking great, obvs!
This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2020/05/21 22:00:05
Blue shading worked out really well (good you didn't take my Nuln Oil vote ), model is coming along nicely. And I would think that a gold cross over silver disc might look good and not distract too much.
Subject: Arakasi Reloaded: Manfred, Heroic Fighter of the Known World
First, in response to a few comments before my last request:
@howie: Welcome and thank you. I'm making an effort to practise freehand in order to overcome that fear. Also practising beforehand on paper. Also practising redoing it when I do muck it up. You know what they say - practise makes progress!
@monkeytroll: I can always count on you for awkward ideas . The practise really does help - although it is hard to practise on non flat surfaces without an actual model...
For everyone else (or again!) - thank you for the compliments and ideas. As you will see below, I tried the gold on silver (it was easiest to try, just needing the gold). Spoiler - I won't be going with that. I think I'll try the red base next, and given I have two occurrences, I may try the gold and white crosses and see which I (and you) prefer...
Asurman Blue wash on the shoulder plates. Also, I believe the leather pouch(es?) are done here too (Rhinox Hide, Agrax Earthshade, Rhinox Hide, Doombull Brown, Tuskgor Fur - no half mixes).
Celestra Grey over the shoulder plates, Zandri Dust base over pommel.
Mephiston Red on the left shoulder plate, Khorne Red on the right shoulder plate. For the left, I marked the half way point on all four sides, painted lines between them, and then filled in the middle. For the right, I just paint in the cross lines and then fill in the alternate squares. I'll come back and clean this up with Celestra Grey later.
Retributor Gold base on the cross-guard and crosses. Dot in the rivets with Leadbelcher. The silver disc just seems to get lost here, not to mention the chain on the right side. Next step is to do the discs in red, and then try gold and white on the crosses. I'll also do the chain in brass.
Washed the cross-guard (Reikland Fleshshade) and pommel (Seraphim Sepia). Still more to do on these. Cleaned up the shoulder plates with Celestra Grey.
Base the cross bases Mephiston Red. I highlighted these up, but I'm not sure if it is these pictures or the next . Chain in bronze - Balthasar Gold, Agrax Earthshade, Balthasar Gold, Gehenna's Gold, Auric Armour Gold.
Base the cross Retributor Armour, and washed Reiksland Fleshashade I believe (the wash, I'm 100% on the colour ). I haven't done one in white . I think there is enough white on the model - so unless there is an uproar, I think it will be staying this way. Bone pommel and gold cross-guard is also complete at this stage. You can just make out on Manfred's left shoulder plate the start of the design. I got a bit ahead of myself - these are supposed to be highlighted up first! Also - I think I'll be better doing the gold lines in stages - red, gold, then red, rather than trying to paint straight lines...
Automatically Appended Next Post: Well, this will probably be appended, but whatever
Skulls (of course!) on the right shoulder, redoing the gold stripes step one on the left shoulder. (Pendants finished).
Better angle of the right shoulder - now with crosses too.
Better angle of the left shoulder, finished gold lines (step two), also swords or crosses - it is really small...
With highlighting. Left shoulder with tiny tiny skulls.
Complete? (Well, except for the base...)
This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2020/05/23 14:46:13
JoshInJapan wrote: I'm curious as to why you're basing this model at an angle-- won't that have him sort of staring off into space?
I originally had Manfred facing at the 5mm mark, or a quarter of his base, as this is what I did for the Chaos Warriors. I think I may have got lucky with the Chaos Warriors. Anyway, I tried a couple of different angles:
4:1 still has that sword crossing a fair chunk in front of the next model.
3:1 appears to be the sweet spot. He would be right up against this Greatsword if the Greatsword was facing directly forward (as he is in the previous picture), but it works out fine if the Greatsword is at the same angle. It would be even more apparent if the Greatsword was *actually* at the correct angle - ie facing towards the top of the picture, not the bottom .
Construct and undercoat a new base. This time I tried some masking tape over the pins (instead of blu-tack).
Masking tape removed.
Test fit. What do you think JoshInJapan? Better? I have, however, managed to offset him a bit to the right (his left)... I think I can live with that - we'll see. Oh, and if you are wondering why he looks a bit shiny? That will be the gloss finish (for protection). Don't worry - I'll matte him down later...
Paint in the foot print. Unfortunately, I can't be as cavalier with the finished model .
Armageddon Dust. Due to the nature of the inaccurate foot print, there was some test fitting to confirm I covered enough. I had a photo for Gobert about the previous gap, but I seem to have lost it. I'll take another one. This one definitely shouldn't have any issues with coverage.
Rhinox Hide base.
More to come, only two or three days left to complete!
A lot of those old Citadel models have the same problem as Manfred there-- they overhand their bases by a lot. It makes ranking them up feel like completing a jigsaw puzzle. Your solution works pretty well, I think, although I would be reluctant to do any cutting or drilling an a model that old.
@JoshInJapan: Technically, Manfred doesn't need to over hang - see further down. Also, nothing ventured, nothing gained - with regards to cutting and drilling old models - although I guess nothing lost either .
@Vermis: Thank you!
@Captain Brown: Almost - although not without a few set backs (see further down!)
Public Service Announcement: If you followed my "Adventures in Martian Ironearth" and were inspired by the lava bases - apparently a) I wasn't the first to think of this (not really surprising) and b) I suspect it would have been a lot easier with Mordant Earth - in at least you wouldn't need to do interesting things to get the black on top. Also, googling Mordant Earth will show you lots of lava bases, and other colours - like green (which looks good on Necrons). I suspect electric blue would look good too...
So, Manfred's base was progressing well...
Agrax Earthshade wash.
Drybrushing through Rhinox hide, Doombull Brown, Tuskgor Fur, Zandri Dust, Ushabti Bone and Screaming Skull.
Another Agrax Earthshade wash, gloss varnish, PVA and static grass.
And then, disaster struck!
Some old Tamiya Matte Varnish apparently was past it's use by date? I cleverly did a test on base 1 - which looked fine. I then did the edges of base 2 - and when I completed the fourth edge, I caught a glimpse of the first - and then saw what had happened to base 1....
I attempted to fix, first with more Matt Varnish, and then with Gloss Varnish - to no avail. If you use a spray and it goes grainy / cloudy, this will often fix it - but no - I think my issues were beyond that. I'm just so thankful I started on the base!
So, obviously, I was meant to have a third attempt at getting the base positioned right....
Third time's the charm!
I also managed to get some pictures of the texture base gap and comparison of angles on base attempt one and two...
Base 1 - a very small gap between base texture and miniature. Looks like an almost 45 degree angle.
Did a better job on base 2, just that offset to the right...
Final submitted image:
A few other notes:
I seem to have got some brown on the back of the robe - I'll need to touch that up.
With the Tamiya Matte Varnish failing me, I'd read or heard somewhere that Medium would provide a Matte finish - so that was what was applied to take off the gloss effect.
Medium needs to put on as thinly as possible, otherwise it will go cloudy and crack. The camera picks it up, although it is almost impossible to see with the naked eye unless you know what you are looking for it.
Lastly, I finished cleaning up my hobby room. This is important as it will allow me to leave my projects out, which will save me time. It will also allow me to start my LoER entry. Just in time for my Limbo to arrive today too...
Finished Manfred is great, the shoulder pads really set him off well.
Agghh, the dreaded varnish issues. As You say, at least you started on the base.
Interesting note on the medium - was that Lahmian Medium? I just picked some up and will watch for that.
Currently waiting on 're-delivery of Limbo myself - first time couldn't be delivered apparently - it was set to work address, and there's only skeleton staff in, so that could have been issue, although when they let me know if seemed they didn't have company name included. Confirmed work address and suggested they might want to ship this one to home address, but had no confirmation either way.
@monkeytroll: Actually, it was 'Eavy Metal Medium - although I'm sure what I heard was referring to Lahmian Medium - which I'm pretty sure is the successor. My experience could also be the age of my two pots... anyway - it can't hurt to be too careful!
Confirmation and Limbo seem to be like oil and water from what I've seen . Hopefully you get it sorted out!
@MacPhail: Thank you - x2 .
@Captain Brown: Indeed. I'm pretty careful (hence the test on the old base first) - but I wasn't expecting the delayed issue... I'll have to give it longer in future!
@Viterbi: Thank you. I really wanted to take my freehand up a notch for this one - even if it was very tiny!
Great job finishing off Manfred. As others have said the freehand is fantastic, especially on his little shields (I forget the proper name). The Grots look like they’ll be a fun bunch to enter in the painting comp.
Goberts Gubbins - P&M Blog, started with Oldhammer, often Blackstone Fortress and mini-Marines, Indomitus soon... hopefully!
Subject: Arakasi Reloaded: Manfred, Heroic Fighter of the Known World
Won't try to change your mind - I was really hoping you'd pick the grot oilers!
Manfred looks great. It's really rewarding to see him come together. Thanks for sharing your terrifying story about the matte varnish. Years ago I accidentally sprayed a can of roughcoat on my noise marines instead of primer, and last week I almost grabbed my can of wraithbone instead of matte varnish because they both have transparent lids. Oof. The thought of it is enough to give me the shivers! I'm glad that Manfred prevailed and you were able to get him submitted. Congrats on getting your hobby room clean!
@Gobert: Thank you. It's a bit high to be Besagews. I want to say tilting shields - but I can't find any reference to back that up. Little shields will do until we are corrected by someone more knowledgeable.
@Don Qui Hotep: Any one in particular? I'm only planning to do one (I have a whole terain piece to do too!) Yeah - I've had spray issues before (although never the wrong spray entirely) - and tend to do the varnishing by hand mostly these days, but it is a lot slower... Thank you x 2.
Limbo cataloguing finished:
Various bigger guys and gals.
Poor Rodrigo is missing his lance - and arm from the elbow. My only unfixable discovered issue. Limbo have already responded - a replacement will be sent ASAP once logistics get back to normal. No rush - I don't expect I'll have touched any by the time it arrives...
Arakasi wrote: @Don Qui Hotep: Any one in particular? I'm only planning to do one (I have a whole terain piece to do too!) Yeah - I've had spray issues before (although never the wrong spray entirely) - and tend to do the varnishing by hand mostly these days, but it is a lot slower... Thank you x 2.
Call me a simple man, but I think the grot on the far right with all the stuff on his back is a very good, and very funny, grot. Looking forward to seeing how your LoER entry shapes up!
Of course, he is the biggest grot, well, miniature anyway... He was my first choice before I found the orderly though. Maybe I can do both... (or more likely, complete whichever is closest to finishing...)
More sprue, less wheels.
I've been looking for some semi-trailer specs and found the Tamiya 1/14 scale 40-foot container semi-trailer. I think things should start shaping up now!