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Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut


At the time of posting this, this project is finished, but I'm still posting this project log from my regular blog to give the Dakka regulars a chance to see how this huge project came about without navigating off-site.
The good news about this is, is you won't end up stranded halfway through a WIP log, you can be assured this project was and will be completed in this thread

This project started when we were contacted by a client about a potential project to convert a whole set of GW "Realm Of Battle" modular battleboards to a chaos-themed wasteland. After agreeing on the particulars, and being given some amount of artistic license to let our imagination run wild.

I took this project on almost by myself, but eventually had to enlist the help of one of our lead artists, MisMuse, who is a miniatures master in her own right, although her background comes from dollhouse miniatures and miniature food jewelry. Really.

If you're not familiar, the Realm Of Battle is a set of 2' x 2' plastic boards with landscape molded into them, designed to fit together in various configurations and then stack together in a carrying case. Details can be had here. The usual technique for these boards is to prime, paint, add flock and play. We already decided that we wanted to do something different based on our client's request for something different from the usual "golf courses" that most gaming tables look like.

Our client had purchased a setof these boards and had GW deliver it right to our workshop. We had planned on this being a simple job finished within a month or so, but when I pulled out these huge tiles, I knew already that it might end up a bigger project than I had anticipated.

Before we could really start anything, we needed to do some preparation. First of all, some factory plastics contain residue from their demolding agents, which can keep even primer from adhering well. We make a habit of cleaning plastic parts before use.

Warm soapy water works best, since most demolding agents are some form of paraffin or other petroleum based wax.

We had a fair bit of planning to do even as the boards were being prepped. One of the first things we noticed was that even though the Realm Of Battle board has some skulls molded into it, we would need a lot more for a proper chaos-scape.

We accelerated one of planned projects just for this occasion, a project which we nicknamed: “Skulls skulls skulls.”

I sculpted sets of skulls, bones and piles of bones, rib cages and other nastiness out of green stuff. All of our added accessories were to be cast from resin. I wanted to be sure that anything we attach to the boards will be strong enough to withstand years of play and shuffling around in their case.

I also needed a lot of rubble and pieces of ruins, such as pavers, cobblestones and ruined gothic architecture to represent the crumbling and destruction wrought by chaos. These pieces were generally sculpted in Super Sculpy and textured realistically with natural stones and pebbles from out in the desert. Higher detail pieces like skulls and bones were done in Green Stuff. Everything gets glued down to foamcore before casting begins.

Many days later…

We started casting pieces immediately, and were almost constantly casting all the way through the process. We use tons of mold release all over everything, so every piece has to be washed by hand to get the grease off.

There are plenty of guides out there for how silicone molding and casting is done, so I’ll spare all the tedious details. Imagine this is like one of those cooking shows where the host finishes mixing ingredients and says “I prepared one earlier!” and whips a finished pie out from under the counter.

Instead of pie, we cook with 2-part liquid polymers, and after several days we had a HEAP of pieces that needed to be cleaned and trimmed carefully.

Hard to tell right now, but this is a pile of skulls. And yes, we all have band-aids all the time.

This is a gothic style arch that MisMuse had designed for another project she’s focusing on, but it also fit with some of my plans for the battleboards, so we were able to kill two birds with one stone.

My plan going into this was simple, and by simple I mean insane and somewhat complicated. Most of these board will have at least some kind of minor modification or two carved into the plastic in addition to the details we’ll be adding, and for the most part we’re leaving the basic structure of the boards intact for playability and storage. However on one of the “mountain” boards, I wanted do something special.

The basics of the plan involve pools of “liquid” flowing from a couple of culverts near the top of the hill, and a handful of ruins crumbling into (or rising out of?) the pools. In order to keep accessibility for troops, I would be making a bridge where the slope is currently, and that would mean making a few changes.

I used chalk to mark where I would be cutting, and where certain details would be, and once I was finally confident with my layout, I fired up Mr. Dremel and got to work.

GW makes these things tough. I made a nice, deep cut and the plastic didn’t even budge. So I made a few cross cuts and pried at it a little. Still nothing.

Seriously, what the heck is under this thing? A few more cuts, and some muscle, and finally I started to get it open…


Okay so that’s their secret. I figured it would be best to get this thing covered back up as fast as possible, since the howling cacophony of madness emanating from the rift was rattling our shelves and made Mikey jump out a window clawing the flesh from his face. I proceeded to shape a few sheets of plasticard and wedged them into the opening with a combination of epoxy, plastic glue and holy water.

With the basic patch nice and secure, it was time to make it look natural, and for that I use Milliput.

Milliput is great stuff. It’s gummy and and can be sculpted, it smooths easily with water, can be textured to look like stone or brick, and sets extremely hard.

I finished blending the edges smooth and then filled the bottom with Squadron white putty. I didn’t try to blend the bottom perfectly, since it would all be textured and then painted and submerged under “liquid”. While this area set up solid I started working on building up the other areas of the board.

Some of the slope needed to be built up a little to accommodate the bridge and the look of the ruins and to provide some unique dimension. This was done with a combination of Sculpy, Milliput and resin accessories.

Another feature we’re adding to all of these boards is the rocky cliff faces. Don’t get me wrong, the GW boards are very nicely detailed, but the cliff faces are smooth enough that if they were real you could slide on them. In order to stand apart and look suitably dangerous for a chaos-scape, I wanted to make the exposed rock look sharp, detailed and realistic. Cork and bark bits together look exactly like sharply weathered, and perhaps earthquake shattered strata. This is a look I’ll make as a theme across the boards.

Next I wanted to define the “shore” of the pool, which has to have raised edges to contain the resin liquid we’ll be pouring at the end.

This is basically plaster powder and paper-pulp that you just add water to, I won't mention the brand, because honestly the label wore off the bag. I have a ton of it and have been looking for good applications for the stuff.

I shaped the edges and added a few chunks of bark to look like boulders and keep it from looking so much like a crater. Now, some of you might be wincing and shaking your head still at the prospect of using plaster.

This would be a good time to mention issues of material compatibility. I’ve been involved in some heated debates around here when I notice one of the other artists trying to use materials that don’t bond or react badly together, such as PVA glue and plasticard, or spray paint on styrofoam, or nylon with just about anything else. I speak from a lot of experience and melted heaps of plastic on this matter.

So that being said, the plaster I slathered onto these boards will not stick to the styrene. Plaster has great compression strength but zero flexibility, and as a result, when the board is picked up and bent even slightly, all the dry plaster pieces release from the slick plastic like an egg off a Teflon skillet.

See? comes right off. Fortunately, I knew this ahead of time, and counted on it. I wanted to make the shore hard, lightweight and not have to use 4 boxes of milliput on this single board. I broke the larger pieces up after they had dried fully and pushed them aside, to be securely glued down with epoxy later. On to the next step.

This board had a big ol’ pool planned, but I wanted to maintain accessibility while adding something really eye-catching, so I started work on the stone bridge. I shaped the basic form out of a thick layer of Polymer clay over a framework made from aluminum foil and chopped up soda cans. At this point I spent a lot of time on the logistics of placement, paying special attention to the position of the other battleboards when stacked. I didn’t want the weight of the other pieces resting squarely on the bridge arch.

I also wanted to make sure this bridge would be wide enough to move squads and vehicles over, so extended the sides a couple times until a Leman Russ could pass over comfortably. I still haven’t glued the plaster shore pieces down yet, only placed them loosely to check the overall layout.

I made sure it was wide enough to move vehicles over. After deciding on the position, I carefully lifted the bridge and baked it hard, using another aluminum scaffold to help it maintain shape while cooking.

I couldn’t glue the bridge down yet either, because I knew what a hassle it would be to try to texture and paint beneath it later. I just settled it into position and got to work trimming, clipping and fitting resin cast pavers and bricks to glue over the bridge.

Lots of bricks.

Lots and lots of bricks.

clipping, cutting, trimming.

Chewing, gnashing, growling.
Well, that was tedious, but at least I had made some of the paver sheets interlocking for the top of the bridge. Next I had to mortar the gaps with milliput, smoothing over the seams between pavers and then sculpting in details to keep the pattern continuous.

By the time the bridge was finished, it had a layers of squadron putty, followed by a layer of hard resin cast cobblestones, followed by milliput epoxy putty gluing everything together. The underside of the arch was sculpted entirely in Green Stuff epoxy putty. I could probably stand on this thing.

Now I finally glued down the shoreline, glued sand texture under the bridge where the water will flow, primed the inside areas of the arch black and started using filler and pieces of cobblestone sections to blend the bridge into the surrounding landscape. I used milliput extensively to fill gaps and bond the pieces to the board securely. I ran out of white squadron putty and opened up a case of green. Squadron green has a finer grain, but since all the board will be textured and made to look like dirt, foliage and horrible little chaos details, it wouldn’t make any noticeable difference.

I left a little gap in the upper area of the cobblestones, keeping some of the board-sculpted details intact. The end product will look like a pothole with skulls inside. This is the kind of detail that will carry through all the boards in this project.

I sanded down the plaster shoreline and then used the same combination of milliput/squadron putty to smooth the edges. While that set, I started working on the second culvert. I didn’t put the bars in this culvert, because I plan on this one being “occupied”. More on that later.

With the shoreline smoothed and finished, the bridge glued down and the cliff-faces textured and detailed, I was just about done with the major portions of this board.

I added more cobblestones around the bridge, bringing the ground area up almost level with the shoreline in places, which would help the effect a lot. I added resin cast skulls and bones everywhere I could, tucked into cracks, beside culverts, at the shore edge, Etc.

I use a 30 minute, 2-part epoxy glue as the base for my texturing process. Nothing else would really have the hold between the plastic and the sand that I’ll be using. I cover the board in small areas at a time so that I can work the epoxy into all of the board’s pre-cast textures and other gaps.

I work in small areas, laying down glue, followed by areas of loose rocks and “boulders” represented by coarse gravel, and then followed an even layer of fine grit, sifted sand. I work in small areas also because 30 minutes is not enough time to get even a 10th of the board textured at a time.

After a few areas of glue and sand, the board is starting to look less like a threatening chaos-scape and more like a soft, sandy beach. I have to explain frequently to dubious passer-by’s that what I’m doing is the textural equivalent of a coat of primer. After this layer is glued down with epoxy, I can use PVA glue and cyno glues to further texture and detail everything up.

When I make scenery, I follow the same principles that I would for figure painting, and I don’t feel that just because a project is supposed to be a large area of dirt, debris or foliage, that it should be an excuse to take shortcuts and not treat every square inch like it’s a real, living part of an over-all model. You start with a clean, even base coat or coat of "primer" to work on. Make sure that all gaps are filled, and that there’s nothing running outside the lines. Once your base tones are complete you begin to highlight, shade and detail.

In the case of this model, my pallet of highlights consists of different grades of sifted sand, from small pebbles all the way down to sand that’s been sifted through cheesecloth. Essentially fine dust. These go on in patches and in amorphous areas to look like outcroppings of crumbled stones, piles of debris that collect into corners and gaps in pavers, kicked by countless boots or blown by wind and rain, and areas of hardened mud. I also scatter a few tiny branches here and there, making sure any piece I use has girth and knots of proportionate scale of real fallen logs for 28mm miniatures.

I continued to work on textures, using watered down PVA glue to make sure everything was solidly attached to the epoxy sub-strata. After drying I shook off the loose excess and then brushed it with a toothbrush to make sure anything that was going to come off, came off now.

While those coats were drying, I used my time to work on the “occupant” for the lower culvert that I had mentioned earlier. For this I broke out the handy ol’ Green Stuff, some wire, cork and sculpting tools.

I shaped and smoothed the basic forms, using multiple passes from wooden tools with a lot of water lubrication, and let it harden for about about an hour then added the suckers.

Hey, that’s still too expensive for sliced ham. I get it for half that price at my deli.

Back to the board. From here I had a couple of final decisions to make. I had a few various ideas for what I wanted inside the liquid pools, some ideas were scrapped for being too bland (simple stepping stones to get across) to being too impractical (massive clockwork fortress rising from the depths) but in the end I decided to find a nice balance and make the feeling of some sunken ruins that would still allow figure access and playability.

I glued a few resin ruins and part of a gothic arch into place. All the time, I continue to pay careful attention to how the boards will stack together when stored. So far this whole board fits neatly even after all these modifications.

Since there was no reason not to, and I was getting a little excited, I went ahead and primed the whole thing flat black. I had a few more ruins to add, but I wanted to make sure everything was looking how I had planned it. I wanted to see how the textures and shapes looked before I got any deeper into this project.

The verdict was in: Perfect. I ran a little ahead of myself and even started base-coating the ground a little, already trying to imagine what colors I’ll use together.

The textures picked up color perfectly, so now I was going to glue in the final pieces of ruins, both in the pools and some outside of the pools. A few more blasts of primer and this piece was nearly finished except for paints and resin. With the sun setting after another quick round of spray primer, I snapped a couple pictures of the details and rocks in natural light.

You can almost hear the wind howling and feel the glaring heat baking down on your skin. Wait, I really am out in the desert, those sensations are real.

Looking pretty good and it’s not even painted yet.

I held off painting any further though, because I wanted to paint them together so that the colors would match between them. So now it was time to set this guy aside and start another piece. That’s it for now, tune in for the next part where we’ll get another board or two finished up.

Made in gb
Avatar of the Bloody-Handed God

Inside your mind, corrupting the pathways

That is ass-kickingly cool.

Though I could have done without seeing you take a bath with the boards (it was still entertaining )

Made in us
Satyxis Raider

In your head, screwing with your thoughts...

Um... wow. Still trying to find words... Nice work. I'll come back when my brain isn't as fried...

Made in au

Australia : SA

:O Makes me want to join your group... Come to australia

Kreig - 2850 pts
Skaven - 3450 pts
Orks - 1950 (pro painted)

Made in gb
Discriminating Deathmark Assassin

Bedfordshire, UK

What a log! This is looking sweet man, can't wait for updates

Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut

Scyzantine Empire

Just read this with the morning coffee after seeing it on the dakka homepage and have to say that besides waking up to my beautiful wife, it's a great way to start the day! Words cannot express how impressed I am with what you've done to the (IMO) rather plain RoB boards...

Kudos to you and your team!

What harm can it do to find out? It's a question that left bruises down the centuries, even more than "It can't hurt if I only take one" and "It's all right if you only do it standing up." Terry Pratchett, Making Money

"Can a magician kill a man by magic?" Lord Wellington asked Strange. Strange frowned. He seemed to dislike the question. "I suppose a magician might," he admitted, "but a gentleman never could." Susanna Clarke Jonathan Strange & Mr. Norrell


Made in us
Stealthy Space Wolves Scout

That is beautiful !! What a great blog of the process and the techniques (cork and bark ... whooda thunk it ?!) !!

Just one detail you left out ... what is the best scented bubbly bath to clean demolding agents from plastic ?

"You never see toilets in the 41st Millennium - that's why everyone looks so angry all the time." - Fezman 1/28/13
Made in us
Malicious Mandrake

Amazing! Your client sure is getting their money's worth (I think, I don't know how much you charged)

Nids - 1500 Points - 1000 Points In progress
TheLinguist wrote:
bella lin wrote:hello friends,
I'm a new comer here.I'm bella. nice to meet you and join you.
But are you a heretic?
Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut


Myrthe wrote:

Just one detail you left out ... what is the best scented bubbly bath to clean demolding agents from plastic ?


Made in gb
Mighty Brass Scorpion of Khorne

Dorset, UK

Wow, that looks awesome!
Really looking forward to the next update

Made in cn
Daring Dark Eldar Raider Rider

Da Qing, North East China

so much talent. Looks straight out of a movie scene.

John 3:16 For God so loved the world.
The Reborn 3000pts W/0 L/3 D/0
Kabal of the Frozen Blade 1500+pts W/6 L/10 D/1

Made in au
Chaplain with Hate to Spare

GAH! this stuff is AMAZING! I just choked on my own spit in excitement!

Flesh Eaters 4,500 points

" I will constantly have those in my head telling me how lazy and ugly and whorish I am. You sir, are a true friend " - KingCracker

"Nah, I'm just way too lazy to stand up so I keep sitting and paint" - Sigur

"I think the NMM technique with metals is just MNMM. Same sound I make while eating a good pizza" - Whalemusic360 
Made in us
Swamp Troll

Can we have some more Bath and Boards shots please...JK JK

But no man this stuff is really really professional grade and I commend you for your awesome work..Congrats!

Successful Trades 84 (Dakka Swap Shop)

Made in fr
Longtime Dakkanaut

Chaumont, France

Terraformer wrote:
Well, that was tedious, but at least I had made some of the paver sheets interlocking for the top of the bridge. Next I had to mortar the gaps with milliput, smoothing over the seams between pavers and then sculpting in details to keep the pattern continuous.

Erh... Let me see... What did I read at first ???

Terraformer wrote:Well, that was tedious

THAT WAS... TEDIOUS?!? I guess that the strongest understatement ever. Full stop.

Astonishing, at the very least!!!

Terraformer wrote:

You can almost hear the wind howling and feel the glaring heat baking down on your skin.

It almost looks like a REAL landscape, no wonder you can hear the wind....

These two minor comments to say that's truly awesome!!!

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My first tutorial - Object Source Lighting
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Please remember to tick the "Disable Voting" box, if the pics you are uploading do not deserve votes (ie. early WIP, blurry pics, batreps, ...) Thanks in advance. 
Made in gb
Storm Trooper with Maglight

Wow!!!!!!! This board ive seen Ever! Ever!

I apologise to anyone who interacted with me around 2009-2012.  
Made in gb
Longtime Dakkanaut

Purging on ctf_2fort

Thanks a lot, Terraformer. Now I've got to search around for the pieces of my skull after my mind just exploded...

But seriously, the one word which describes this best is immense. Immensely insane, or immensely cool? Can't wait for the next parts!

BTW, did you spray prime all of that? How many cans of paint/aerosol paint did you get through?

Made in gb
Dakka Veteran

Surrey - UK

Holy monkey nuts Terraformer , so thats how you make an entry to dakka..

Myword !

Excellent work !

-STOLEN ! - Astral Claws - Custodes - Revenant Shroud

Made in gb
Irked Blood Angel Scout with Combat Knife

Hinckley, Leicestershire.

Thats amazing you mentalist!

In Progress  
Made in gb
Sagitarius with a Big F'in Gun

Yggdrasil wrote:
Terraformer wrote:
Well, that was tedious, but at least I had made some of the paver sheets interlocking for the top of the bridge. Next I had to mortar the gaps with milliput, smoothing over the seams between pavers and then sculpting in details to keep the pattern continuous.

Erh... Let me see... What did I read at first ???

Terraformer wrote:Well, that was tedious

THAT WAS... TEDIOUS?!? I guess that the strongest understatement ever. Full stop.

He meant the chewing to make the paving on the bridge, not the result!

imho, your board, and modelling skills are excellent!
Made in us
Contagious Dreadnought of Nurgle

Williamsburg VA

You are doing a great job. I have to ask why you didnt just build the whole thing from scratch instead of just using th Hyper expensive GW board as a base.

My hobby blog
Made in be
Arch Magos w/ 4 Meg of RAM

In the Wasteland

this is gonna be an amazing board after this is ready

Made in se
Guardsman with Flashlight


This is insane! Can't wait to see it finished! Keep it up!

Almighty God-Emperor of Mankind aka LolWut? Pear DC:90S-GMB++I+Pw40k05#-D+A++/eWD318R++T(M)DM+ 
Made in us
Gargantuan Gargant

North Charleston, SC

Oh. Mah. Gawd.

Beautiful. I don't think I could put that much effort and detail into a diorama the size of a paper plate, and you're doing it to an entire 6'x4' gaming board?

This is in the running for most impressive plog I've ever seen. Subscribed faster than a really quick thing finishes a very short task.

The Dreadnote wrote:But the Emperor already has a shrine, in the form of your local Games Workshop. You honour him by sacrificing your money to the plastic effigies of his warriors. In time, your devotion will be rewarded with the gift of having even more effigies to worship.
Made in us
Mekboy Hammerin' Somethin'

My god man! You have my heart racing in excitement over the details put into this project. Simply amazing!

I may have to get a Tyranid version done from you. . .
Made in us
Tilter at Windmills

Manchester, NH

Great stuff! Making me want to finally work on the RoB board I won more than a year ago...

Adepticon 2015: Team Tourney Best Imperial Team- Team Ironguts, Adepticon 2014: Team Tourney 6th/120, Best Imperial Team- Cold Steel Mercs 2, 40k Championship Qualifier ~25/226
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Maelstrom's Edge! 
Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut


Cosmic wrote: BTW, did you spray prime all of that? How many cans of paint/aerosol paint did you get through?

I estimate I actually went through about 6 - 8 cans of primer, counting a couple of incidents of using the wrong brand with poor coverage, as well as having to strip and re-prime some resin areas and other minor setbacks.

sennacherib wrote:You are doing a great job. I have to ask why you didnt just build the whole thing from scratch instead of just using th Hyper expensive GW board as a base.

My client had these boards shipped to us to work on. It did save me a little bit of time to already have a solid foundation to work on and not have to devise my own modular scheme.

oadie wrote: Beautiful. I don't think I could put that much effort and detail into a diorama the size of a paper plate, and you're doing it to an entire 6'x4' gaming board?

It really was a lot of area to work on, more than I even anticipated, but we never back down from a challenge, and I did have help. If I had been working on it alone it would have been at least a year long project instead of the 5 - 6 months that it took.

I'm posting the next chapter now, and I'm happy to answer any questions!

Made in us
Mekboy Hammerin' Somethin'

I asked a random collegue if the second to the last picture of Chapter 1 ( the one that has the feeling if the wind was howling) was real and she agreed.

That is how well done the 3T work is IMHO.
Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut


Well, we're one board down, 5 to go!

It looked like a daunting effort, I was already sore from the last piece.
The good news is I had a pretty solid plan, and we weren’t building any more bridges or other really complicated concepts. Well, one more but we’ll get to that later.

I grabbed the next board and got to work.

This was a flat piece, so it would go relatively smoothly. I didn’t want to make each piece elaborate, or there would be no place to put modular terrain, and it would take years to finish, but I did need to use some common elements to tie everything together, and for this one I needed a hint of ruins and skin. Skin? Yep, this was supposed to represent a world that was being overtaken by chaos, so there would likely be some disturbing elements laying around. I imagined Nurgle-ish infections in the ground might slowly start to develop and grow like fleshy blobs, so I wanted to sculpt a flat feature that looked as if it were spreading, and had the look of real skin.

My plan was to use Greenstuff and make a reverse impression by mushing a piece into real flesh to make something like a flesh-textured tool-tip. Now, who’s skin do I use? I approached MisMuse, my lead artist and designer, but for some reason she didn’t react well when I asked if I could rub my green stuff on her skin, so I just settled for the back of my own hand.

After curing for a few hours, I had a good sample of what my pores looked like for future archeologists.

The skin texturizer was just part of the process, I also sculpted deeper and more detailed creases and lines myself before rolling over it with my skin sample, well lubricated with water. An excellent tutorial for sculpting skin can be found here.

After smoothing everything out with some wooden tools dipped in water and adding a few blisters, warts, veins and tentacles, I had this lovely thing stuck to the board.

During this step, I made a very short pile of ruins and rubble nearby, so the fleshy thing could be grabbing onto something with one long “arm.” I cast more of the cobblestones from the previous board, along with some square pieces scattered around.

Again, restraining myself from creating the elaborate, complicated piece that told an epic story in my head, I added nothing else and began the texture work. The skulls in the pits worked fine as they were, no need to mess with a good thing, I just carefully applied epoxy around the cracks before sprinkling on my multi-step texture process. I used the same technique as before- first dropping a few clumps here and there of plain old yard gravel and dirt of various sizes and grit and plant fibers and roots and sticks, this is followed by an even coating of sifted riverbed sand, and then after the epoxy sets, scattered areas of super-fine dust with watered down PVA glue. After drying thoroughly, I sprayed black primer over the whole thing, but masked off the Fleshie, because I didn’t want to lose the detail under the heavy-duty primer I was using for the rest of the board. Later, I used Tamya brush-on primer and finished the base coats on the Fleshie.

Vallejo flat red mixed with purple and saddle brown went into the base color, I expected this would give it a warm tone, like irritated, rashy skin around the visible parts of the underside. I touched up the areas of the board that were masked off by hand, then set the whole board aside. That was as much as could be done at this point.

I grabbed the next piece and started the same way.

This piece would tie in with the previous one in the same way, with ruins and Fleshies (that term evolved pretty fast.) This was basically a repeat of the previous board, but with more of everything. I’ll fast-forward through all the tedious detail right to where things start to come together.

Using the same technique from the first board, I glued cork over the cliff-faces, and blended it in with green Squadron putty and a little milliput in places where it needed more adhesion. This would continue the jagged, destroyed-by-the-elements theme.

There was a small projected hill on this board which I glued pieces of square pavers over to look like the foundations of a structure. After the addition of a couple “dry” culverts, 3 more Fleshies. and a few piles of scattered skulls and bones, I textured the board like before. It should be noted that I discovered by this time that you can thin 2-part epoxy with Acetone. Not wimpy nail polish remover either, but the kind you get in a hardware store in a metal can. In slows the curing time dramatically, which helps when you’re working a large area, but best of all, allows you to spread the epoxy with a brush into all the corners and crevices, just like if you were using watered down PVA glue.

The next piece, which I failed to get a "before" picture of, was another mountain board. The distinguishing characteristic of this one was the odd, squarish blocky rocks embedded in the ground leading up the path to the plateau area. I wanted to incorporate as much of the board features as possible. so I decided to use these blocks as cursed, rune etched representations of the chaos that was infecting the very ground and splitting the world apart. Basically it was time to carve some creepy stuff.

I did a few Internet searches for arcane looking runes, and found inspiration in this set of alchemy symbols I found on a strange website about Native American Aliens and eagles from outer space.

Using some of these patterns as a rough base, I sketched some symbols on the plastic and broke out Mr Dremel again.

Using a VERY light touch, I used the edge of a routing bit to carve the symbols. Always wear safety glasses when using power tools. Look both ways before crossing the street. Call your mom once in a while.

Some icons were slightly stylized versions of more well known evil lords of the Warp. Others were imagined, and I did wonder if they actually meant anything. I would hate to put some kind of curse on the board by accident. Dear Client, if players tend to get bad rolls on this board, you know why. The dremel tends to leave melted plastic shavings stuck to the edges, so after carving each rune had to be carefully trimmed with a hobby knife.

After carving the runes, I added cobblestones, skulls and applied cork and ground texture. In this picture you can see where it’s still damp from adding areas of super fine dust with PVA glue over the first layers of grit. After drying, I poured diluted PVA glue over everything one last time as well, to give strength to all the little stuck-on rocks, pebbles, plant parts, Etc.

Something seemed strange about the finished result and the runes that I couldn’t put my finger on. The more I stared at them, the more they seemed to be trying to show something… Maybe it was just my imagination.

I guess I was just getting closer to at least the halfway point and I was anxious to see this project finished. I was 4 boards down now and 2 to go. I had one flat board left, and one more mountain piece. I’ll break this update here and continue with the final push in the next chapter.

Made in gb
Brainy Zoanthrope


Dude... you scared the !*£$BED £(U"£$ out of me!!!

So instead of praising your, might I say ammazing working, you get an angry comment!


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*ENCLAVE* Approves of the above post.
terribletrygon wrote:Almost no one has been killed over video/war games. Except for MMORPGs, but that's just natural selection.

Made in us
Nigel Stillman

Seattle WA

I read the whole thing imagining that "The professor" from futurama was saying it, made it an even better read... if that is even possible.

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